Newbie with questions on finish for an Ash Toy Box

[John M Wilson]

Hi!

I'm building a toybox for my grandson out of some air-dried Ash. I've read that I should use a wood grain filler for ash, so I bought some Aquacoat. I've also picked up some Osmo Polyx, since the idea of an easily-repaired finish seems to make sense for an active boy's toybox.

However, I've never used either product... am I on the right track? Is it advisable to use a grain filler underneath a wax/oil combo like Osmo?

Since this will be treading new ground for me, any advice you have will be greatly appreciated!

JW

[John TenEyck]

I don't think Osmo Polyox, or any other hardwax oil, is going to work well over Aquacoat. The Aquacoat is going to fill the grain, what it's designed to do, but that's going to prevent the Polyox from getting into the grain and bonding properly. If you want to fill the grain, I think the better approach is to wet sand in one or two coats of Polyox, working the slurry into the pores. Then apply one more coat in the normal manner.

John

[Jim Becker]

I agree with John. Don't use the grain filler. Just use the hard-wax oil and be done with it. It will look lovely when you have the project completed. There's nothing wrong with a little texture.

[John M Wilson]

Thanks!

I was concerned because some of the boards have tiny cracks in the middle (checking?) that I thought might be filled, so as they wouldn't detract from the overall look.

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I might try a test coat of just the Osmo on a scrap piece to see if it looks the way I think it should... :)

Thanks again for the help!

JW

[Tom Bender]

Those are drying checks from drying too fast. They can occur in hours if the sun gets on it when green. That wood would not be ok in a structural application. Should be fine for a toy box, but they will show.

Test your finish to see if you like it.

[John M Wilson]

Those are drying checks from drying too fast. They can occur in hours if the sun gets on it when green. That wood would not be ok in a structural application. Should be fine for a toy box, but they will show.

Test your finish to see if you like it.

Thanks for letting me know what those things are... some of my lumber has them, and some does not. I'll try to be strategic with placing my "hero boards" -- the ones that look the best, and hide the rest. (My wife says I am getting too obsessive about a toy box, but I figure practicing here will pay off if I ever do try to build furniture.)

I did several trials with the Polyox alone, over the Aquacoat, and over a skim coat of Goodfilla grain filler. Neither the Aquacoat nor the grain filler filled in the drying checks - both left a line deep enough to see in a raking light.

I think the trial that turned out best was 2 coats of Polyox, then sanding with 120 & 180, then a 3rd thin coat of Polyox. That left a finish that was smooth to the look and touch.

Does anyone know if it is possible to thin the Polyox a little to get a self-leveling coat? It may be that it's a little cool in my garage, but I'm getting "brush marks" no matter which method I've used to apply it: a bristle brush, a foam brush, a pad of white scotchgard, and a soft cloth.

As always, thanks for the advice!

[John TenEyck]

Do not thin Osmo Polyox, and do not try to use it like varnish. You MUST wipe it off completely. Brush marks should not be an issue because you wipe it off.

As I said before, you may be able to fill those cracks if you wet sand the first coat of Polyox, work the slurry into the cracks and pores, and then completely wipe off the excess.

John

[John M Wilson]

Do not thin Osmo Polyox, and do not try to use it like varnish. You MUST wipe it off completely. Brush marks should not be an issue because you wipe it off.

As I said before, you may be able to fill those cracks if you wet sand the first coat of Polyox, work the slurry into the cracks and pores, and then completely wipe off the excess.

John

I'll try that today!

I guess I was a little reluctant to wipe on the Polyox, and then attempt to wipe it all off... I probably was in my old mental rut of wipe-on poly urethane, and need to embrace the idea that even after I wipe off the Polyox, something meaningful will be left behind.

Good thing is that I have plenty of off-cuts to practice on to find my technique before I ruin any of the good wood. :D

Sorry to be a little slow on the up-take; I really do appreciate the advice!

JW

[John M Wilson]

Well, thanks to John TenEyck and others, I have successfully used Osmo Polyox for the first time... (this is a toy box for my grandson)

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It took a while for my brain to get "unstuck" from the varnish/polyurethane paradigm, and get on board with the idea that I could apply a super-thin coat of this stuff, wipe most of it off, and still have any finish remaining.

I am happy with the result, and based on my usage, I probably have a lifetime supply of it now!

Thanks again to all who offered advice -- that's what makes this site special!

JW

[John TenEyck]

Happy to see it worked out for you John. The box looks great.

I'm predicting a happy grandson.

John