What to do with ruined, vintage auger bits?

[Luke Dupont]

So, I have a number of auger bits in really bad shape, with either the screws, or wings (what do you call them? Cutters that define the hole) ruined. Sometimes both.

I was wondering what I could do with these. I mean, it's still good steel, and there's a useful shank attached... I can't do anything too complicated metal working wise, but I've got files, hacksaws, dremels, and stones.

I suppose the wings/flanges that are ruined (sharpened on the outside so they can't define a hole properly and just get the bit stuck) can be filed off and the bits used for extremely rough work (which I don't really do, but okay... useful to have some beater bits at times, I guess).

But the ones that are beyond any hope of salvation... Gotta be something they'd be good for.

I just feel bad to throw away good steel, and/or vintage tools of any sort, even if they be in really poor condition.

[Jim Koepke]

Here is an image that might help with the names of various parts:

473576


I was wondering what I could do with these. I mean, it's still good steel, and there's a useful shank attached...

This is a question often pondered by someone who just ran a good bit into a screw or nail.

You might be able to cut the shaft and file the end into a usable screwdriver.

If they will go into wood, you could bore them in and then leave them and hang it up for a coat/hat rack.

Some might be useable for increasing the size of a hole a step or two.

There is always the possibility of using them in unknown salvaged wood to save your good bits from hidden metal.

You might be able to do something along the line of custom tools with a 90º bevel > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?289820

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

The Irwin "How To" pamphlet can be found here > https://toolemera.typepad.com/files/irwinhowtopam-1.pdf

You may have already seen this old post > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?131238

jtk

[Scott Winners]

I have a box of similar metal items I take to and donate to my blacksmith everytime I drive out there. He is a good hour from my house. Even though I tell him the scrap metal is free to him I seem to get pretty low rates on the work he does for me.

[Jim Koepke]

Wind chimes, some of them might make a great sound when clinked together. :eek:

jtk

[Paul Saffold]

square punch like these https://www.ericcannizzaro.com/products/square-punch
and something I made years ago to hang things from.
473602473603

[Jason Buresh]

Personally I would cut off the auger and fashion then into different screwdrivers. A file can easily turn it into a flathead oraybe even a Philips with a triangle file

[Charles Guest]

If it were me, I'd spend hours in front of a grinder making some tool that I could buy for $5 on Amazon. :rolleyes:

Throw them in the recycle bin and move on. When the spurs are shorter than the cutting lips (don't stand above them), they're done.

[Rick Whitehead]

I have a nice little awl made from a Jennings Pattern double-twist bit. The screw and lips were cut off and the end rounded. The square part of the shaft was cut off, and the shaft was tapered and pointed.
Other than that, I don't know what you would do with them.I have a bunch of unusable auger bits, too.
Rick

[Jason Buresh]

If it were me, I'd spend hours in front of a grinder making some tool that I could buy for $5 on Amazon. :rolleyes:

Throw them in the recycle bin and move on. When the spurs are shorter than the cutting lips (don't stand above them), they're done.

I haven't seen a tapered square shank screwdriver for a brace on Amazon. Maybe I am looking in the wrong spot because if they are $5 there I would buy one

[Alan Schwabacher]

If you prefer using the brace to other tools, you can use the old bits to make adapters. Cutting to length, boring on axis, and adding a setscrew can let you use small twist bits. If you weld, you can add a locking adapter for hex shanks or other things.

[Charles Guest]

Most of the vintage tools sellers in England can fix you up. I have a couple. Nobody is making these new that I am aware of.

Try vintagetoolshop.com and oldtoolstore.co.uk

You can also get an adapter (square, tapered shank) and use the magnetic bits that come in sets. I have one. Tools For Working Wood has them I think. Bought mine years ago.

[Mel Fulks]

I would grind off all the sharp places. Round them well. Make a toy that would slide down …and maybe up! Mount the bits vertically on a board.
A toy raccoon or wood squirrel would make good spinners.

[Jim Koepke]

square punch like these https://www.ericcannizzaro.com/products/square-punch

Thanks for that link Paul. This has given me an idea. The tang can probably be ground to sharpen the corners for use like a large bird cage awl to bore or enlarge holes.

jtk

[Richard Verwoest]

Contact Cracker Barrel and trade them for some biscuits and apple butter.

[Geoff Emms]

A friend of mine has a handful in his caravan and uses them for ground anchors for his awning. He's welded a nut to the top of the tang and screws them into the ground with a socket in his cordless drill.

[Jim Koepke]

While out in the shop today my 'lesser auger bits' were inspected to see if any were in bad enough shape to recycle into another tool.

One rusty bit was an older #8 Russell Jennings bit that looked to be a little bent. It was easy to straighten by hand with the aid of a vise. It didn't bore to well so the next step was to prove the concept. The tang was ground and honed to make sharp edges on the four corners. It actually worked fairly well at enlarging a hole like a reamer would.

Just one last look before putting it under the saw. It really didn't look to be salvageable. It would only take a minute or two to run a file over it to see. What do you know it actually started cutting well.

Okay, the next rusty old bit was a #8 Irwin. Without really checking it out it was chucked up and the brace given a spin. Once the screw got to depth the bit kind of stopped and tore the wood surface and not even the full diameter of the bit. What the heck?

Removing it from the brace and having a look revealed the problem:

473647

See the shiny area at about 6 o'clock from the screw… Someone tried putting a bevel on the underside of the cutters. This obliterates the relief angle needed and may even raise the edge of the cutter above the work.

(Note: With an auto focus camera it is difficult for the camera to focus on small areas. That is the reason for using a piece of wood with a hole in it for the camera to focus to the area one wants to have in focus.)

So the cutters were sharpened on the top side to eliminate the incorrect bevel. The spurs where still too short to make a clean edge for the hole:

473648

This is with all the loose chips cleared away. The discrepancy of the spur length compared to the cutting edges was visible to the eye.

The Russell Jennings bit will go in my box of spares and the Irwin will likely be turned into a simple ream.

jtk