Epoxy Fill for Carving / Engraving

[John Pace]

I have recently purchased a CNC, but this is not a CNC question…


I want to carve names or a message into the lid or side of box, or fill a flat carving like a US Army / Navy or firefighter emblem… Then sand it flat so the color of the epoxy shows the lettering and is smooth to the touch. My only epoxy experience is using it as an adhesive, the 5 minute stuff.


I have been looking at West or Total Boat epoxy, but since my only frame of reference is thick adhesive type epoxy:


Using West as an example: Should I look at Special Clear, 205 Fast, or 206 slow? I do not think I need the slow since my projects at this point are small, a box lid, not a river table. But if slow is easier to deal with… Thoughts or advice are appreciated. Epoxy newbie here…

West, Total Boat, or another? Thank you!

[Jim Becker]

You only need to go to "slow" curing for deeper resin pours, so something "more medium" is just fine. You don't want "fast", however, because even with filling carved engravings, you need time to get any bubbles out before the cure passes the point of no return. I cut a lot of personalization on my CNC for a guy who offers charcuterie boards and similar and that's how he does his fills...and they look great.

[Patrick Varley]

I have recently purchased a CNC, but this is not a CNC question…


I want to carve names or a message into the lid or side of box, or fill a flat carving like a US Army / Navy or firefighter emblem… Then sand it flat so the color of the epoxy shows the lettering and is smooth to the touch. My only epoxy experience is using it as an adhesive, the 5 minute stuff.


I have been looking at West or Total Boat epoxy, but since my only frame of reference is thick adhesive type epoxy:


Using West as an example: Should I look at Special Clear, 205 Fast, or 206 slow? I do not think I need the slow since my projects at this point are small, a box lid, not a river table. But if slow is easier to deal with… Thoughts or advice are appreciated. Epoxy newbie here…

West, Total Boat, or another? Thank you!

I've used West Systems for similar things. 206 or 207 should work. If you're going to tint the epoxy then no reason to spend more on the 207. As Jim says, doing multiple pours for thick pours and being vigilant about the bubbles is key. I'd have to look it up, but I think West specifies keeping layers less than about half an inch. Because the curing is exothermic, thick pours can lead to cracking due to the heat that is generated. One trick is to use heat to pop the bubbles on the surface (I use a propane torch).

For finishing, I sand as normal. I've used both shellac and oil based varnish over top.

[Richard Coers]

2 issues, color wicking into the end grain of the cuts and face, and bubbles from the mixing. I'd use casting resin instead of epoxy so you can do one pour. Most will apply a coat of penetrating resin on the face and all the cut lines. When set, tint the resin and fill the routing. Makes for a super clean sign. Absolutely no wicking into the wood pores. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdoGQq75rSw

[Jim Becker]

Richard makes a good point...it's a best practice to seal the recess with thin clear before making a colored pour.

[John Pace]

Thank you! Looks like Total Boat has a version that has a medium cure time.

[John Pace]

I've used West Systems for similar things. 206 or 207 should work. If you're going to tint the epoxy then no reason to spend more on the 207. As Jim says, doing multiple pours for thick pours and being vigilant about the bubbles is key. I'd have to look it up, but I think West specifies keeping layers less than about half an inch. Because the curing is exothermic, thick pours can lead to cracking due to the heat that is generated. One trick is to use heat to pop the bubbles on the surface (I use a propane torch).

For finishing, I sand as normal. I've used both shellac and oil based varnish over top.

I think most of my pours will be 1/4 or less. Will a heat gun also work instead of a torch? Thank you!

[John Pace]

2 issues, color wicking into the end grain of the cuts and face, and bubbles from the mixing. I'd use casting resin instead of epoxy so you can do one pour. Most will apply a coat of penetrating resin on the face and all the cut lines. When set, tint the resin and fill the routing. Makes for a super clean sign. Absolutely no wicking into the wood pores. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdoGQq75rSw

Thank you for the link! He mentioned in that video that had also had a video on Total Boats channel that talked more about the sealing. I wonder if shellac would seal the grain as well? I always have shellac on hand...

[ChrisA Edwards]

I've use Total Boat, pre-sealed with NO WAX Shellac, multiple colors.

Happy with the results.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/i452/cedwards874/TripolyBd2.jpg

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/i452/cedwards874/AnneBrandonS8(1).jpg

[Wayne Cannon]

Even a soft, open mouth, exhale will dismiss bubbles in epoxy pours -- a trick I learned from modelers doing ponds and rivers for dioramas.

[John Pace]

I've use Total Boat, pre-sealed with NO WAX Shellac, multiple colors.

Happy with the results.

I have de-waxed shellac. That cutting board is beautiful!

[John Pace]

Even a soft, open mouth, exhale will dismiss bubbles in epoxy pours -- a trick I learned from modelers doing ponds and rivers for dioramas.
Thank you!