Any reason I can't use a resaw blade?

[Jake Elkins]

I just set up a new-to-me 32" old cast iron bandsaw, which makes my 14" look sad now. I was always tempted to get a carbide blade for the 14 incher, but I knew those blades don't like small wheels. With the big saw, I would like to basically retire the table saw. I plan on mostly rip, and the occasional crosscut, tenon, etc. I do some resaw now, but probably more with a more capable saw. Is there any reason why I couldn't put a carbide resaw blade (for example, the resaw king) and use this primarily for ripping 4/4 - 8/4 stock and the occasional crosscut and resaw? I will keep the smaller bandsaw and use it for all my curve cutting. Any advantage to 1.25 blade vs the 1" or 3/4"? Looking more to save time than to save money. Thanks

[Richard Coers]

A resaw blade can be used to cut any direction in any wood. Will it be optimum for every cut? Probably not. Thickness of the blade material is much more critical than the width. I've never used anything wider than 3/4". I don't throw my wood through the saw and the extra rigidity of a super wide blade has no benefit in my work. But in my shop a table saw would never, ever, be retired. I've worked with one for 50 years, I'm not changing now.

[John TenEyck]

What blade do you have on the big saw now? If it's 3/4" or wider I'd measure the tension. If you can get at least 20ksi on it w/o distorting the frame then, yes, you can absolutely run a carbide blade of that width. If you don't measure the tension on some blade, however, it's a complete guess.

John

[Jake Elkins]

Thanks John -
It has a 3/8 blade, now. I don't have a tension gauge, but might make one similar to Matthias' on woodgears. The tension gauge on the saw goes up to either 1.5 or 2 in, I'll have to check again.
I'm sure it is possible, but it is hard to imagine bending the frame on this Northfield. C-frame alone probably close to 800lbs.

[Tom M King]

The Northfield will tension it. The only reason I can think of to run a wider blade than a 1" is for bigger teeth. I'd run a Lenox 1" Woodmaster 1.3TPI on it.

[John TenEyck]

Thanks John -
It has a 3/8 blade, now. I don't have a tension gauge, but might make one similar to Matthias' on woodgears. The tension gauge on the saw goes up to either 1.5 or 2 in, I'll have to check again.
I'm sure it is possible, but it is hard to imagine bending the frame on this Northfield. C-frame alone probably close to 800lbs.

You can make a tension meter like mine for not much money: https://sites.google.com/view/jteneyck-woodworker/current-projects/bandsaw-blade-tension-meter?authuser=1

To put 20ksi on a 1" x 0.032" blade takes roughly 1280 lbs force.

John

[scott lipscomb]

One consideration may be that cutting thinner stock with a low tooth count band saw blade can lead to stressing of the blade at the gullets if the stock is fed too fast.

[Kevin Jenness]

I'm pretty sure that Northfield can tension any blade you can fit on it. I ran a 1" Lenox Woodmaster CT on my 36" Crescent without any problem.

Like Richard, I would not be without a circular saw, but two bandsaws will be quite versatile.

[Robert Hayward]

You can make a tension meter like mine for not much money: https://sites.google.com/view/jteneyck-woodworker/current-projects/bandsaw-blade-tension-meter?authuser=1

John
I made and use one of those. Really handy little gadget. Prior I had no clue how much tension I was putting on a blade.

[Jonathan Jung]

Highly recommend the tension gauge from Iturra Design for $135 and the Lenox Tri-Master carbide blade. I have the same setup you have, one small saw for curves and one large saw for straight cuts.

Iturra Design 904-642-2802 and ask for their catalog. Amazing.

[Dave Cav]

I run a 1" Woodmaster CT on my Minimax, and any ripping under about 2" or so gets done on the bandsaw. Essentially anything too narrow or long to cut using my F&F jig on the slider.

[glenn bradley]

What you describe is pretty much how I use my saws.