Using spade bits in a drill press?

[Frederick Skelly]

(Starting a new thread to avoid hijacking another.)

In another thread, someone mentioned that "spade / paddle bit are not advisable on a drill press. Many have disclaimers to this effect." That warning caught my attention and I'd like to hear what folks know on the topic.

I checked the manual for my dp, and it doesnt warn against using spade bits. I has specific recommendations for how to safely position and hold the wood being drilled though. Googling turned up some examples of a piece getting away from the operator. But that seemed to be when the part was not being positioned/held as recommended in my manual.

What do you folks know?

Thanks.
Fred

[Jerry Bruette]

I don't see a problem. Just make sure the part is held securely and you choose the proper spindle speed.

[Ron Citerone]

Not positive, but I think with drill presses you want to avoid the bits with a screw point that pull the bit into the wood. In that case the bit is advanced by the screw thread and the operator cannot control the feed. A spade bit with a plain point does not feed itself into the wood and advances only when the operator feeds it by the handles.

[Andrew Seemann]

I blissfully used them in drill presses until I discovered Forstner bits. Mine always had dagger points rather than screw leads though. I guess the main thing I would worry about is someone not familiar with drill presses in general trying to use them at too high of speed and snapping the shank and/or throwing the spade, or not holding the work securely enough and having it grab and throw the work or spin and injuring the operator, or maybe advancing the bit too fast and having it grab and snap.

I guess I could see why a liability-conscious manufacture would not recommend them.

[Jim Becker]

I'm going to speculate that one of the reasons for that caution is because of the physical format of a typical spade bit...very narrow shaft (typically a quarter inch) and then the wider business end that cuts when sharp but becomes more like a scraper as the sharp dissipates. So you have increased risk of runout even before you cut into the wood and the stress of turning that type of cutter can make that even more of a risk. Of course, I like many folks, occasionally use them in my DP. But never for "fine" work.

[Paul F Franklin]

Just as a reference point, IIRC, the bit selection menu on my Nova DP has a spade bit option; that would seem to indicate they think it's OK. I agree with the others that the warning is most likely against the screw point variety...that would get exciting fast on a DP, and not in a good way! To be honest, I don't even like the screw points for any power drill use; they are a good way to get a sprained wrist when you hit a knot in construction lumber. And I agree with Jim that a spade bit is not the best choice when a precise hole is wanted.

[Ron Citerone]

JB, agreed fine work, but for someone on a budget they are a cheap alternative. The newer ones with the pointed outer part and the scalloped cutting edge are pretty nice for the price.
PFF, I had to drill through old 8” pilings that were wet from being driven into a marsh. Had a screw end. Like you said, got caught and snapped my wrist around real bad!

[William Hodge]

The spade bit warning might have been along the lines of "Do it right, or don't do it."

When I was a kid, working in a wood shop, one of the other kids put a 1 1/4" spade bit in a drill press to drill a hole in a Southern Yellow Pine board, free hand, no fence. The drill press speed was set for 3/16" twist drills, and fast for that. The wood chattered and moved, then flew, and the spade bit bent out at an angle, still whipping around. No one got hurt.

[Dave Zellers]

I've had them dislodge the quill on my 16" Delta more than once. That's actually a good thing as it just drops down and there is no drama. But I avoid them now for that reason and I have forstner bits.

If you must use them make sure they are sharp.

[Michael Fink]

Of all the tools in my shop, the drill press is very high on the "worried about it" list. Doesn't look dangerous, which makes it more dangerous. And you only need to see a 1.5HP motor reduced down to 100 RPMs grab something once before you realize how much power there is in that thing. Stuff goes bad in an instant and you'll have 0 time to react, in fact, you probably won't even know until the damage is already done.

Clamp it securely at all times. And by "securely" I mean "break the belt or bit" if it sticks. On my metal press table, I have a hold down clamp and several C-clamps for metal; for wood, I have a full table with a fence that I put up there and clamp down. Never had an incident, but it's just so darn compelling to just "throw something up there and drill through it" that even I, with a very healthy fear of the drill press, have had to stop myself.

To the original question, I have used spades in my press before. I don't find it any better/worse than any other bit. Clamp the snot of out of it and go at it. Carefully, just like you would (or should) for anything else going through that machine!

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I had to drill through old 8” pilings that were wet from being driven into a marsh. Had a screw end. Like you said, got caught and snapped my wrist around real bad!

I keep waffling on about the merits of a SDS drill with a chuck adaptor...

I also use spade bits in the drill press (with care). I stored a Shop Smith for a friend. Shop Smith advocates seem to like drilling deep holes. I used an extension and spade bit in the Shop Smith a few times. It is very dangerous. It can be done. There are several doos and don'ts that are very important.

[Andrew Seemann]

I keep waffling on about the merits of a SDS drill with a chuck adaptor...


I have a chuck adapter for my Bosch Bulldog. I use it to hold driver bits for Tapcons in drill mode. It works quite well and saves wear and tear on my cordless drivers.

I don't use it for drilling big holes though, I have a HoleHawg for that, The nice thing about the HoleHawg is you can use a 3/4" pipe as a handle. I frequently use one braced against the ground if I am putting say a 2 9/16" bit through a rim joist.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

Not positive, but I think with drill presses you want to avoid the bits with a screw point that pull the bit into the wood. In that case the bit is advanced by the screw thread and the operator cannot control the feed. A spade bit with a plain point does not feed itself into the wood and advances only when the operator feeds it by the handles.

I was just to post the same stuff.

I share your opinion.

[George Yetka]

Ideally use a Forstner, but they can be all kinds of expensive. I feel they can be dangerous in general and may not leave the best finish But I havent used any nice ones. I cant think of a reason that they would be more dangerous in a DP though, If anything(assuming Proper Hold down) they should be safer in the DP than in a drill.

I ran a pointed one without the screw into my finger far enough for the outer lips hit the skin as well. I learned that I shouldnt have done that and never did again.

[Prashun Patel]

Don't do it.

If you are really on a budget, get a cheap forstner. There are plenty to be had. However, if you care enough to use a drill press, I'm supposing you care about the accuracy and precision. In this case, the marginal cost of a good forstner would not be a consideration for me. You don't have to buy a whole set if you have a specific project in mind.

[Jack Frederick]

If I was going to do this I would only use the short shafted spade bits and not the 4-5” version.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I have a chuck adapter for my Bosch Bulldog. I use it to hold driver bits for Tapcons in drill mode. It works quite well and saves wear and tear on my cordless drivers.

I don't use it for drilling big holes though, I have a HoleHawg for that, The nice thing about the HoleHawg is you can use a 3/4" pipe as a handle. I frequently use one braced against the ground if I am putting say a 2 9/16" bit through a rim joist.

Here is my post regarding the infamous Hole Hawg from this morning.

Another plug for using a drill with a clutch for hole saws and big bits. A co worker left the job on a stretcher bound for the hospital after getting whacked, tangled, and flipped to the ground by the pipe handle of a Milwaukee Hole Hawg. He was using a Schalage door boring rig with a 2 1/8 auger bit.

I see several of the old Schlage jigs on eBay. Interestingly there is a new version... the "Killer Jig" by Pro Loc

[John K Jordan]

…
If you are really on a budget, get a cheap forstner. There are plenty to be had. However, if you care enough to use a drill press, I'm supposing you care about the accuracy and precision. …

Good advise.

I do often use a cheap Forstner in the drill press: when drilling a recess on a wood blank for mounting on a lathe chuck. I use the drill press to get the position and hole depth right but in this case clean entry and smooth sides don’t matter much.

In fact for this use I bought cheap carbide Forstner bits since they last almost forever without sharpening. BTW, for 50mm jaws I use a 2-1/16” bit for most things and a 2-1/8” if I need to fit calipers between two of the jaws to measure thickness.

I read once that drill press use results in more hand injuries than any other tool, especially in the metal shop, almost always due to holding the work by hand or not clamping well. I usually use two clamps when drilling steel and one or two with wood, depending. (I keep a separate drill press for metal to keep shavings and oils away from the wood.)

JKJ

[Tom Henderson2]

Not positive, but I think with drill presses you want to avoid the bits with a screw point that pull the bit into the wood. In that case the bit is advanced by the screw thread and the operator cannot control the feed. A spade bit with a plain point does not feed itself into the wood and advances only when the operator feeds it by the handles.

This is exactly right.

Like many others, I have used flat spade bits in my drill press for eons.

Then one day I tried using a Bosch "Blue Devil" spade bit... as soon as I brought the bit down to the work the drill point in that bit took over and advanced the bit at an insane rate... jerking the handle out of my hands. The bit then dug into the work, grabbing it out of my hands. it was really quite frightening.

Fortunately I wasn't hurt and the workpiece was easily replaced.

Later I saw the disclaimer on the wrapping not to use in a drill press. Nowadays I read the labels BEFORE I use a new tool!

My $0.02

[David Buchhauser]

I have occasionally used an Irwin "speed-bore" bit in my drill press in the wood shop. I like to use a slower speed and clamp the work piece to the table and have not had any problems.
David

[Frederick Skelly]

I'm glad I asked the question. Thank you folks!
Fred

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I have enjoyed watching the Inventor and Engineer Dan Gelbart's YouTube offerings. The episode on safety is highly recommended. (as well as all of the others)


https://youtu.be/1H9ei8-6tEM

[Alan Schwabacher]

While a forstner bit will definitely cut more cleanly than a spade bit, a drill press carefully used with a spade bit that does not self feed can work. Any bit can catch and spin the work, but a spade bit is more likely to do that. Clamping the work can prevent injury from work spun into you, as well as increase accuracy, but that's more critical for metal work.

If you think about the direction it might spin, and place the work so it will hit the column before it hits you, you can avoid most injury without any extra prep time.

[Ole Anderson]

As long as your work is up against a fence, long side to the left, you should be ok, no need to clamp. No fence? Then clamp it or hold on tight if it is long enough.

[Frank Pratt]

It could be argued that a spade bit in a drill press is saver than in an hand held drill. There's so much better control with a DP.

[Dave Sabo]

Here’s the disclaimer on the Bosch package.

These are the regular , ground point bits , not the self feeding “devil” bits.


473534

[Rick Potter]

I am with Ole on this one.

Like others, I have been using spade bits in the DP for a long time. After the first time a spade bit spun the work, I quickly clamped a simple fence to the table. Problem solved. Never tried a self feeding bit. Nowadays I have a nice adjustable fence, and rarely drill anything without it.

Oldie but goodie tip: For clean holes with spade bits, set the stop on the DP so the point of the bit just pokes through the bottom of the work. Drill the first side till the bit bottoms, turn it over and use the small hole from the point to drill the remainder from the backside. Presto...Clean hole from both sides. An added bonus for using fence..easy to align the bottom hole.