Intro to sliding table saws?

[Bryan Hall]

So, I pulled the trigger on a basic slider, short stroke, nothing fancy. The most important things to me were price, scoring blade, and dado capability. I didn't want the best ever, just something to introduce me to them so I can see for myself if investing in bigger/better/nicer ones in the future makes sense. Should be here by end of month unless there's a shipping delay but that never happens...

In the meantime, can anyone direct me to a good intro to sliders youtube series or similar? I'm going to assume I need some additional accessories, as well as a solid rundown on pitfalls, dangers, limitations, things NOT to do with a slider.

My biggest initial question for how to do on a slider is repeat rips. Let's assume I have a 12" wide board, 24" long, and want to rip it down into 2" wide by 24" pieces. Pull the fence over and use the fritz and franz jig I see on videos? That's honestly my biggest question since I do that all the time.

[Kevin Jenness]

Here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjcbKKMc5LI are a couple of videos showing a short stroke machine in use.

You have the basic idea on repeat rips - works like a bacon slicer. Pull the fence back to avoid trapping the ripped piece between fence and blade. For the last strip, extend the fence and rip normally with a push stick.

I use clamps and Fritz and Frans the most for accessories. On a short stroke saw you will continue to use the rip fence conventionally more often than a longer format saw, for pieces longer than the stroke. Try to get used to using the carriage when possible.

One questionable practice I have seen both in the workshop and in videos is using the extended fence in conjunction with the crosscut fence, particularly when cutting large panels. It's safe with a wide enough crosscut as long as the riving knife is in place, but it requires that the piece be pushed through past the blade. If the fence is retracted you don't need to reach over the blade. Also, sliders are usually set up with toeout on both the rip fence and the carriage so there is a potential for problems there. I think it is better to get in the habit of retracting the rip fence whenever using it with the crosscut fence. Crosscutting narrow pieces against the extended fence is a definite invitation to kickback.

[Jim Becker]

Bryan, in addition to videos, there are some good threads here at SMC that discuss fixturing, etc., that will be very helpful to you. Yea, the search isn't always easy, but it's worth the effort.

I believe Sam Blasco has some videos on the "Tube that will be helpful to you.

[Michael Drew]

The "Extreme Woodworker" YouTube channel has several slider videos. I've been watching his videos in prep for when the machine I ordered gets here (in the fall). He has a larger Marin slider, but the techniques he shares should work for any.

[Erik Loza]

The "Extreme Woodworker" YouTube channel has several slider videos...

His channel is my favorite.

Erik

[Warren Lake]

good you tube there Kevin, had watched the one you took down. I watched Ramons second on as well both good.

I dont agree with you on the ripping narrow on a long fence at least from doing it for over 40 years same with everyone who has worked on cabinet saws where the fence doesnt retract. In fact my fences are longer than stock. There will be tension release in solid but so what im pushing material through the saw and just keep going. On a cabinet saw if you want that then you can clamp a piece of MDF on there not as good as a fence that is totally out of the way. You will be easier on your blades if you have a short fence as the tension release from solid wont be pushing off the fence into the blade if the fence is not there.

Part cutting and angles he shows are good, most of that can be done on cabinet saws simple and easy as well

In the second one he makes this cut, 7 x 18 long whatever the dimensions are. Cant see that, you cant stand in a good place carriage in the way, one hand is not ideal and the piece is narrow compared to the length. At least the riving knife is there. Without the riving knife its an invitation to get whacked.


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[Kevin Jenness]

I dont agree with you on the ripping narrow on a long fence

Warren, I'm, not sure I follow you. My concern is with using the crosscut fence and the rip fence simultaneously. If a piece can be held on the carriage and the rip to the right of the blade is gauged against the retracted fence, it is unnecessary to reach over the blade to push the piece through the cut. I think that is safer as your hands are well away from the blade and any crook from tension release will not lead to binding.

Another way to rip narrow pieces is to use Fritz and Frans or other positioning aids to hold the piece on the carriage and have the falloff on the right, without using the rip fence at all. Again, no need to reach over or past the blade. Believe me, I have ripped miles of stock on a cabinet saw, I am just pointing out there is more than one way to skin a cat.

My comment about narrow pieces was related to crosscutting - using the retracted fence as a bump stop allows the piece to fall free. If the fence is extended that piece would be trapped and very likely to be kicked back.

[Warren Lake]

sorry I didnt read cross cutting narrow but im always going too fast. Will read it better later wood stove run down and time to fill it again. You changed the post from what I read last night and maybe I was remembering that.

and cause i only half read if that Ive seen enough of the fritz and franz and with an entry level slider for the work ive done im faster on a cabinet saw. You have consider tension release as well, each time you rip off a solid depending on five things you are changing the tension. You just ripped 2" off a six inch solid six feet long, its not straight anymore.

Because of how this slider is that it only has a sliding table and not a whole carriage I will also have to adapt to that to try the fritz and franz concept. Ill get a full size slider but for sure keep this as well, on repetitive work if I ever do that again I wont want to slug a 10 foot carriage if I dont have to if the small one can do it. For the bit ive done on the small slider im impressed but its several other features how smooth it is, how the dust collection is another level and stuff like that, it has the pull back fence as well. Just not there yet to give it time. That cut I posted if I did that id be standing behind the cut, ive never had a riving knife till now and past if I did that cut id be telling myself this is not smart even if I was standing in the right place and two hands. Ive done it many times and now I think more about stuff like that. I have a riving knife now, it feels like cheating but its a good thing.

My first time on a 5 Hp saw I got whacked and knocked to the ground. I had asked felt something wasnt right this back in 81 so I asked, just happened to get a teacher that gave bad instruction. The positive was the next day the old german asked what happened. Out of five or six of them he was the only one that cared. When I told him he turned red and shook his head. Getting whacked really hurt but the positive was I changed classes and ended up with a better teacher and a friend for 35 years. Huge positive in one negative. Still I prefer not to get whacked.