Toggle clamp considerations

[Patty Hann]

Hello all....
I'm building some jigs for both a tables saw and a router .
I will need to use the [quick release] toggle clamps to hold the work piece, but also parts of the jig.
What are some considerations in choosing whether to use horizontal or vertical?
What clamping pressure is sufficient for holding the work piece securely (lots of torque there, you know) for the TS? for the router? 200lbs? 300lbs? 500lbs?
THanks

[Kevin Jenness]

Tablesaw and router work is normally removing or shaping an edge so vertical clamps would most often be used. Horizontal clamps would be more likely on a drill press or similar for facework but it depends on the specific application. Basically the clamps need to be clear of the tooling and allow for feeding the stock. I mostly use DeStaco low profile clamps with 1/4" screws. Sandpaper on the registration surface helps keep things in place.b https://www.mcmaster.com/toggle-clamps/low-profile-hold-down-toggle-clamps-9/

I have a simple shaper sled for tenoning with one toggle hold down clamp plus an f-clamp used horizontally to hold the workpiece tight against the backer - a horizontal toggle clamp could be used there if set up at the right height.

[Sebastien La Madeleine]

A few years back I started using the self adjusting ones and would never go back. You can dial in just enough pressure not to dent your fragile pine board while holding it perfectly in place. For the next cut, you have some really smooth maple that slips in the jig, just turn the wheel a couple of turns and the clamp is now applying enough force to make sure nothing can budge.

I purchased some Kreg, some Bessey and both are similar and good.

https://www.bessey.de/en-GB/BESSEY-Tool/Products/Toggle-Clamps
https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/clamps/other-clamps/kreg-auto-adjust-bench-clamps

[Patty Hann]

Tablesaw and router work is normally removing or shaping an edge so vertical clamps would most often be used. Horizontal clamps would be more likely on a drill press or similar for facework but it depends on the specific application. Basically the clamps need to be clear of the tooling and allow for feeding the stock. I mostly use DeStaco low profile clamps with 1/4" screws. Sandpaper on the registration surface helps keep things in place.b https://www.mcmaster.com/toggle-clamps/low-profile-hold-down-toggle-clamps-9/

I have a simple shaper sled for tenoning with one toggle hold down clamp plus an f-clamp used horizontally to hold the workpiece tight against the backer - a horizontal toggle clamp could be used there if set up at the right height.

What clamping capacity (pounds) do you typically use?
The link shows clamps going from 60 pounds to over 500 lbs.
Thanks

[Kevin Jenness]

What clamping capacity (pounds) do you typically use?
The link shows clamps going from 60 pounds to over 500 lbs.
Thanks

The ones I use most are DeStaco 227U https://www.destaco.com/products/hold-down-clamps-227, so nominally 500#.
I also have the Bessey clamps linked by Sebastien which are ok. I find that if they are not shimmed to the correct height they can be locked with the spindle out of plumb, which can push the workpiece out of position if I am not paying attention. The DeStacos only lock with the spindle vertical so I tend to use them more, but they have less vertical adjustment. Usually either type is screwed to a fence the same thickness as the workpiece.

[Michael Schuch]

Clamping force is going to depend a lot on what you are cutting, the forces involved and the design of the jig. Can you share the design of the jigs you are building? Maybe a picture or two?

[Patty Hann]

Clamping force is going to depend a lot on what you are cutting, the forces involved and the design of the jig. Can you share the design of the jigs you are building? Maybe a picture or two?

I'm copying some jigs (with slight modifications) that I have seen on youtube that others have built.
Will post some pics or links later, but the jigs will be crosscut sled (or sleds) coping sled, a jig that fits over the TS fence for cutting tenons.
(I don't intend to cut tenons but I will have some tall pieces to cut like that)

I borrowed a crosscut sled that did not have any hold-downs. I typically cut wood that is not more than 6"W and up to an inch thick.
I have small hands but am pretty strong (from the type of work I did before I retired) but I can't hold wood stationary when the saw (or router) is pulling at.
So even using a jig for positioning I need clamps to keep the wood from moving.