Restoring an old hand plane

[Luis Reyes]

Hi All,

I bought two hand planes today that look pretty old. I'd like to try and restore them with the goal of using them in my shop (newbie woodworker though but I figure this will be a fun project to try). I'll have to take some pictures when it's daylight out but the parts look very rusty. Any tips / trips when restoring hand planes or is there a thread where I can be pointed to?

One of the planes are a transitional plane about 12 inches long (ohio tool company no 37) but only a couple of inches high. The other one is a wooden plane about 24 inches long stamped A. Maynard. I actually don't know what they are but figured trying to restore could help me learn more about hand planes! I figured first step is to use rust remover (although to be honest I'm about to start researching what to do).

Hoping the forum can point me in the right direction. The more I'm doing woodworking the more I like the idea of hand tools for some reason although still learning so we'll see how that goes!

Luis

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[Tony Wilkins]

Really depends on condition what you can use them for. Pictures would let the group help more effectively. The longer is a jointer/try and the shorter is a Jack or smoother (and at this point condition would probably be the driving factor).

[Jim Koepke]

Hi Luis, as a member you can post images but you won't be able to see them.

One section where old posts have been stored is > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?103805-Neanderthal-wisdom-FAQs

My recollection is their may be some posts on restoring wooden planes there.

It might be good to spend the $6 to become a contributor so you can see the images. Some of the images have been stored off site. If the links get broken there is no way to see them.

A post of mine > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?242156 < is working with wooden bodied molding planes. A different beast with some similarities that might apply.

jtk

[Scott Winners]

I passed by this thread at least once because Jim, as above, knows a heck of a lot more about this than I do. I can't see your location from here, but I am gunshy of transitional planes with wooden bodies and metal innards in Fairbanks because my annual humidity swing is so big.

Six bucks a year, about 12-13 cents a week, to share and see pictures, is a super bargain.

There are many places in the USA with mild enough humidity swings for transitional planes to be a bargain. Start with what you have, read up and do. If you have a knack for it you can build a comprehensive set of wood working transitional style planes for not much money and some unknown time invested. I avoided that fork in the road given my local humidity [qv], but I did restore an adequate set of all metal Bailey types. If you don't have a knack for the transitionals, fixer-upper Bailey types aren't that expensive.

I personally don't enjoy metal working at all, never mind as a subset of the woodworking hobby. I don't even like sharpening, but I like using sharp woodworking tools, so I do have to sharpen. I fully understand the prices of new production high quality tools are barrier for many. I haven't actually looked at how much it would cost to buy a set of 3-4-4.5-5-5.5-6-7-8 as new production from Lee Valley or Lie-Nielsen. Thousands. I bet it would be thousands of dollars. Thousands of dollars I don't have. So I restored a set of vintage handplanes too. I didn't enjoy it, but it was worth it so I could have them to use them doing the woodworking I do enjoy.

There are at least 3 folks here who seem to enjoy restoring old handplanes. When I need a new size I just message them and write a check. There is a gang of folks here who enjoy rehabbing vintage chisels. I am one of a few folks here who actually enjoy rehabbing vintage handsaws, even though I don't like metalwork. I can't sell competitively because of shipping from Alaska, but when I can pull an old handsaw from waste stream before it hits the dump I do. My saw till is overflowing.

Once you have a block plane, and something near Bailey sizes #3, #5 and #8 you can move on. There is a mentor out there talking about how you can do everything with one plane at the #4 Bailey size, and he is correct - if you have the time. If you got a block, #3, a #5 and a #8 you can do all the same things quicker.

Where do you think you want to go in the hobby? What do you think you want to do? When I am old and feeble and cannot do anything else in my shop, I am going to carve some spoons. I hope I can figure out how to sharpen my gouge by then, all I will need is a vise, a coping saw and a gouge. Sandpaper. Salad bowl wax. Spokeshave will make some operations easier. Round rasp.

You are on a slippery (expensive) slope here. It would be a really good idea to have an idea where you want to go so you aren't wasting your money on tools you don't need. If you are just spending a bit of recreational cash to see what you like that is fine, but given you are already a woodworker you are playing with fire.

Good luck and best wishes.

[Luis Reyes]

Hi Luis, as a member you can post images but you won't be able to see them.

One section where old posts have been stored is > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?103805-Neanderthal-wisdom-FAQs

My recollection is their may be some posts on restoring wooden planes there.

It might be good to spend the $6 to become a contributor so you can see the images. Some of the images have been stored off site. If the links get broken there is no way to see them.

A post of mine > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?242156 < is working with wooden bodied molding planes. A different beast with some similarities that might apply.

jtk

Thanks for the links! I'll start reading the threads. I've posted some pictures and become a contributor now as I think it'd be great to see pictures and help the forum out as well! I'm curious if these will be worth restoring or if I can use the parts and a new piece of wood so I can use the planes!

[Jason Buresh]

Oof. The transitional looks like it might be cut down. I think it should have been longer. Also, appears the lever cap is missing and someone used a screw an washer as a "fix". Sourcing a lever cap may be a challenge.

The long jointer appears in better shape. As long as there are no major cracks or splits, I would give a sharpening and see how it does. Wood planes are fun to use, although adjusting them takes some getting used to.

I would focus on getting the jointer going again, and leave the transitional for now. If you need that size plane, a Stanley no 5 is not uncommon at all, and typical aren't very expensive. Your wooden try/jointer plane though will make an excellent replacement for the harder to find and much more expensive no7/8 Stanley.

[Rafael Herrera]

The jointer plane may be a better place to start. From the pictures, the cutting iron is not properly installed. This picture shows the correct assembly.

Get the stock clean and the sole flat. When the edge of the cutting iron sticks out of the mouth, it has to be parallel to the sole and perpendicular to the long axis of the sole. The sides of the plane body don't need to be square to the sole, don't waste time on that. The size of the mouth is not a critical feature either, so don't get sidetracked by that at this stage.

The most difficult part in setting up a wooden plane is in fitting the wedge so the chips don't clog at the mouth. Post your progress.

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[Luis Reyes]

Oof. The transitional looks like it might be cut down. I think it should have been longer. Also, appears the lever cap is missing and someone used a screw an washer as a "fix". Sourcing a lever cap may be a challenge.

The long jointer appears in better shape. As long as there are no major cracks or splits, I would give a sharpening and see how it does. Wood planes are fun to use, although adjusting them takes some getting used to.

I would focus on getting the jointer going again, and leave the transitional for now. If you need that size plane, a Stanley no 5 is not uncommon at all, and typical aren't very expensive. Your wooden try/jointer plane though will make an excellent replacement for the harder to find and much more expensive no7/8 Stanley.

Good idea as I didn't even realize the transitional is missing pieces. Plus with fewer parts the long jointer should be "easier" for a newbie like myself!


The jointer plane may be a better place to start. From the pictures, the cutting iron is not properly installed. This picture shows the correct assembly.

Get the stock clean and the sole flat. When the edge of the cutting iron sticks out of the mouth, it has to be parallel to the sole and perpendicular to the long axis of the sole. The sides of the plane body don't need to be square to the sole, don't waste time on that. The size of the mouth is not a critical feature either, so don't get sidetracked by that at this stage.

The most difficult part in setting up a wooden plane is in fitting the wedge so the chips don't clog at the mouth. Post your progress.

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This picture is super helpful! The cutting iron was incorrectly placed! I'm wondering how much the seller took it apart to look at it. I'll have to look up at a video on how to set this up as I'd love to try it out once I remove the rust and sharpen it.

[Rafael Herrera]

As a starting point, the Paul Sellers video on how to refurbish a jack plane is pretty good.

https://youtu.be/I2lvF8-nc_Q

Do you have a properly set hand plane, like a smoother? You need one repair the sole if it is out of flat. Sandpaper on a wooden block may do. You want to shave off/sand only the high points to get a reasonably flat sole.

Once you have the plane clean and sharpened, this David Weaver video will get you past the finish lane.

https://youtu.be/cmyG3jo5e9g

[Jason Buresh]

If you are a beginner, I recommend you do not try to flatten the sole yet. You can easily make things worse than better. And taking wood off is easier than putting it back on, especially because flattening it will open the mouth. You may be creating a problem and not fixing one.

I highly recommend, as do others here, that you get it as sharp as you can and spend some time using it first. Flattening the sole should only be done if 100% necessary and all other options exhausted.

[steven c newman]

Now that the OP can see a few photos...a little show & tell?
Jointer...
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22" long, Butcher iron, might be a No. 81?
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Called a Strike Button...hit here to loosen the iron...
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Ohio # 035 Razee Smoother. Iron is a thick, tapered style..
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L-R: Ohio No. 035, Sargent No. 3416, Stanley No. 28, Ohio/Sandusky No. 81
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Smoother, Jack, Try, and Jointer. Ohio and Stanley used similar lever caps...Sargent was completely different.

The Razee pattern was to allow for a tote on the rear of the plane, and still have access to the depth adjust wheel

Not shown....two Stanley No. 31 Jointer planes...about the same size as a Stanley No. 7...

[Luke Dupont]

This picture is super helpful! The cutting iron was incorrectly placed! I'm wondering how much the seller took it apart to look at it. I'll have to look up at a video on how to set this up as I'd love to try it out once I remove the rust and sharpen it.

I have a funny story about a wooden plane, its cutting iron, and a seller at a local flea market that I never met.

The flea market (in a building) allowed people to sell their stuff unattended -- everything had a price tag and you could just bring it to the front. So the seller was never there for me to meet or talk to.
But, he had these old wooden planes, in pretty rough condition, that I would inspect from time to time.
Every time I picked them up, the irons were in upside down. I would take them out and put them back in the right way (bevel down, chip breaker up), only to find them upside down again the next week. Of course, knowing better, I felt obliged to correct them and put them back the right way.
I guess the seller was convinced they should be bevel up, and annoyed at whoever kept putting his irons "upside down." I just find it funny that someone would insist to correct something they obviously know so little about... and not even bother to examine the piece any further? I mean, come on, there's even a groove cut for the cap iron screw head in the bed of the plane. That should give one a hint at least...

Then there's sellers of cheap Chinese planes on amazon, and if you look at the pictures, you'll see the blade and the wedge jammed in just about every way you can imagine, except for the correct way:

Let's see, I put the blade in this way, but geez, it doesn't seem to work well:
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Okay, I must have it in backwards, let's try this:
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Nope, that doesn't work either. I know, it's gotta be this way!
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Taken straight from a seller's listing on ebay. And these appear to be stock photos that everyone uses and recycles :D



At that same flea market I mentioned earlier, where I had a booth set up and would work as people passed by, I also had the joy of meeting some random passerby who insisted that my bow-saw, with a rip blade mounted on turning pins, was in fact a "buck saw", and also that Japanese woodworkers would sharpen their planes after every single shaving. :D

[Luis Reyes]

Now that the OP can see a few photos...a little show & tell?
Jointer...

22" long, Butcher iron, might be a No. 81?

Called a Strike Button...hit here to loosen the iron...

Ohio # 035 Razee Smoother. Iron is a thick, tapered style..

L-R: Ohio No. 035, Sargent No. 3416, Stanley No. 28, Ohio/Sandusky No. 81

Smoother, Jack, Try, and Jointer. Ohio and Stanley used similar lever caps...Sargent was completely different.

The Razee pattern was to allow for a tote on the rear of the plane, and still have access to the depth adjust wheel

Not shown....two Stanley No. 31 Jointer planes...about the same size as a Stanley No. 7...


I can see why this can get addicting with so many different kinds!




I have a funny story about a wooden plane, its cutting iron, and a seller at a local flea market that I never met.

The flea market (in a building) allowed people to sell their stuff unattended -- everything had a price tag and you could just bring it to the front. So the seller was never there for me to meet or talk to.
But, he had these old wooden planes, in pretty rough condition, that I would inspect from time to time.
Every time I picked them up, the irons were in upside down. I would take them out and put them back in the right way (bevel down, chip breaker up), only to find them upside down again the next week. Of course, knowing better, I felt obliged to correct them and put them back the right way.
I guess the seller was convinced they should be bevel up, and annoyed at whoever kept putting his irons "upside down." I just find it funny that someone would insist to correct something they obviously know so little about... and not even bother to examine the piece any further? I mean, come on, there's even a groove cut for the cap iron screw head in the bed of the plane. That should give one a hint at least...

:D


This is hilarious! I have to admit I don't know anything about the planes but I'll also be the first person to ask others so I can learn more about them (which I have to say so far I've learned a good amount and hopefully more to come!)

[Jim Koepke]

Great story Luke.

It is amazing how unwavering confidence so emboldens fools.

jtk

[Luis Reyes]

A quick update on the longer plane! I’ve been working away at the rust (harder than I thought) but it’s coming along. I have a few rust spots left that don’t seem to want to come out so I may have to rethink on next steps. I also think the blade may have a little pitting so I’ll have to see how to fix that. Good news is I’m enjoying the process but it’ll take me more time!

here’s a before and a so far picture of the blade

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[Rafael Herrera]

That looks done to me. Those irons were made a bit coarse, don't go too nuts filing or grinding, they don't need to look machine made.

Is the iron marked on the flat side? The rounded top ones may indicate an early 19th or 18th century iron.

[Luis Reyes]

That looks done to me. Those irons were made a bit coarse, don't go too nuts filing or grinding, they don't need to look machine made.

Is the iron marked on the flat side? The rounded top ones may indicate an early 19th or 18th century iron.

It says Spear and Jackson with SJ in the centre-middle under a logo and then it says extra cast steel warranted at the bottom.

[Jim Koepke]

Another thing about the blade Luis, the back side's condition is more important than the top of the bevel side.

The top layer on the bevel side is likely a softer steel if the blade is laminated.

Besides, with a jointer plane it isn't as important to get a silky smooth surface. Usually a jointer is taking thicker shavings and is followed by a smoother if it is a show surface.

jtk

[Luis Reyes]

That’s good to know! I was more worried about the bevel.

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[Rafael Herrera]

It says Spear and Jackson with SJ in the centre-middle under a logo and then it says extra cast steel warranted at the bottom.

The S&J mark was registered in 1830, so not an 18th century iron. I read somewhere regarding the shape of the cutting iron, how it evolved from rounded to the trapezoidal shape, can't find a reference at the moment.

[Luis Reyes]

This is getting fun! My inner kid is coming out wondering about the history behind these planes! I saw a video today where they used paste wax around the wooden plane instead of boiled linseed oil. Any thoughts on the group on one way or another?

I also took a picture of the mark on the transitional plane as I’m eyeing that one now to remove the rust. The wood says Ohio took co but I can’t quite make out the mark just yet. Kind of looks like a skull to me but I noticed Ohio tool co had a thistle brand? The mark looks pretty bad to me so maybe it’s from another plane.473444

[Rafael Herrera]

There are various approaches to cleaning these wooden planes. On one side you may want to preserve the use marks on surface of the plane, some old planes have wear marks that show how it was held. On the other side you may sand it and get a fresh surface. The middle ground is to remove the worst of the grime and leave most of the aged surface there.

If you go the middle ground, you can always clean a little further if you wish to. Use a gentle abrasive, e.g. Steel wool, 3M pad, etc. and a solvent, e. g. Mineral spirits, alcohol, acetone, etc. It is claimed boiled linseed oil will darken the wood in the plane, whereas wax will not. Who cares, you choose.

Quite a bit of info can be fount online on the Ohio Tool Co. It's interesting to learn about it.

Is that picture of the transitional iron? Can you use a metal brush to clean it up a bit more and post a picture?

[Luis Reyes]

Here’s a better picture of the transitional plane iron! I can’t find this branding when I Google Ohio tool co so maybe it’s from a different plane. The wood says Ohio tool co number 037 and what I can make out of the iron it says Fred.... warranted cast steel.

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[Rafael Herrera]

... what I can make out of the iron it says Fred.... warranted cast steel.


Yeah, the two horizontal lines are usually Warranted Cast Steel. The manufacturer's name is spelled on the arch. It's too mangled to decipher from the picture.

The logo looks like a palm tree top. At first I thought it may a by Mawhood, but no.

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You iron is kind of unusual, since the top is not the typical trapezoidal shape, like in the pictures here.

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It's likely a badly fitted replacement. The cap iron screw should be threaded from below the iron (like in the picture above), but the assembly probably won't fit if you try. I'll lookup the plane model, I have an Ohio Tool one and can post pictures of it later.

[Luis Reyes]

Here’s a better picture of the cutter on the transitional. Seems to say Fred or Fredist and then chlr or chir at the end? What I find interesting is the cross at the end. Wondering if that can identify it? That being said Rafael or Jim were correct that the screw didn’t fit properly so I’m guessing this is from another plane put into this one. Now I need to decide what to do next as ideally I’d find some parts to fit so I could use the plane

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