gnarly firewood

[Warren Lake]

We took a large dead ash down about a month ago and most is cut and chopped. Now doing a number of the 20-24" lower trunk sections. There is some amount of gnarly stuff that will not cooperate no matter what. This left from one of the 24" sections is stringy and grief. I chop them starting on a side then just work all the way around. I get that for stuff like this stubborn guy you just cross cut it into discs.

I think I shocked the arborist that climbed this tree when I said I think a chain saw is safer than a table saw but that is how i feel. I told him I likely upset him with how I use a chain saw and he didnt answer. Im fine and can feel the machine but for all this gnarly stuff I dont want to fall back into my habit of holding it down with my left foot.

Is there any sort of simple thing that will hold these left over guys of different sizes, stop them from rotating which is the main issue. Ive probably done some with them up tight to the saw and cut through but that is asking for trouble. Ive flipped over some saw horses and thought about that the chunks sit in a V but even still they would need to be supported more.

I looked on the net and did not see anything and likely im just not typing in the right search words. Time to figure something out to hold these that is simple easy and fast to use but holds them so they cant rotate or move


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[Jim Koepke]

Ive flipped over some saw horses and thought about that the chunks sit in a V but even still they would need to be supported more.

My solution for this was to build a bucking horse:

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The bucking horse is front right. The pegs in the bottom rails are hard to see in the image. A piece of rope with an eye on one end is fed from under the rail to one peg. The rope is then flipped over the piece being cut and held to the other peg with a tight slip knot, bungie cord or two pegs on the bottom makes for a quick hitch knot.

One thought on this if it is ever rebuilt is to add a couple supports in the center to have a slot in the middle so the rails wouldn't get nicked so often.

jtk

[Kevin Jenness]

Cut a V in one of the butt sections to hold the ornery chunks, then rip nearly parallel to the length. Once you get most of the way through, finish by splitting with your maul.

[Zachary Hoyt]

Some things I can't split by hand, but a lot that are too tough for an ax or maul are fairly easy with a sledgehammer and 2 wedges. I prefer a 16# sledge but some like lighter or heavier ones.

[Warren Lake]

I dont see a wedge or any ripping. If the big bandsaw was up and running that couild be used. Im on the cross cutting in some holding jig thought patttern and walking in the other day had put one piece into some sawhorses sitting outside realizing it was not the answer but some version of that would be. Cutting discs will be simple just need a simple thing for holding them and they will get shorter as I work down the length. What you did there jim that or some variation are making sense. this one had a branch on the other side, sometimes they still blow up but often not.

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[Kevin Jenness]

Some things I can't split by hand, but a lot that are too tough for an ax or maul are fairly easy with a sledgehammer and 2 wedges. I prefer a 16# sledge but some like lighter or heavier ones.

Sixteen pounds! You are strong like tractor. Even John Henry was only "swinging 12 pounds from my hips on down" at least in the version I remember.

I use wedges too, but with an 8# maul. It's pretty rare that I give up and bring out the chainsaw for splitting - usually when my wedges are buried and stuck.

[Kevin Jenness]

Cutting discs will be simple just need a simple thing for holding them and they will get shorter as I work down the length. What you did there jim that or some variation are making sense.
Sorry, I thought you had rejected the idea of crosscutting. Either a crossbuck or a notched log will work. For smaller diameter stuff a timberjack works well to get the log off the ground. https://www.treestuff.com/peavey-manufacturing-timberjack/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAi9mPBhCJARIsAHchl1ww8T25_7bcSTCpru_ kYStabKdq56KcQ0PB0rTG0wrpOg7oWige21UaAsMAEALw_wcB

[Bruce Volden]

I use my splitting maul on large ash logs ONLY when it's about -20F. They don't stand a chance in that temp.
But honestly I'm getting old so I have a 35 ton splitter--that works year 'round!!!

Bruce

[Bruce Wrenn]

24 ton splitter does them with the push of a lever.

[Warren Lake]

thats cheating :)

I dont do enough for a splitter. This was the ash tree that died and still standing just waiting for the day to fall on my home. We had some strong wind storms, Bark blew off and it was cracking and I dont even know how it was still standing. I like Jims idea or some small variation but that looks sensible. The two there are what is left from 2 24" trunk chunks. The one on the chopping block was not going to let me win. At that point though its small enough to fit the stove the one beside it is a candidate for that splitter. It looks like it should be fine and easy.

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[Scott Winners]

I would drive a couple stakes into the ground beside what you have left, rip cut with a chain saw (look out for chips collecting at the motor end of the bar), cut them big and let them season long. I have a few gnarly chunks like those will become in my wood pile every year. The first year I stack them I put them low in the stacks, and leave them behind as I burn the regular stuff. When I am refilling my shed next, I put them on top and try to burn one after two years of seasoning. From what I have seen online two years split and stacked should be enough for standing dead ash, even big and gnarly. Noodle cut they call it on one or another tree forum. Big long chips coming off the chain, my personal record is near 11 inches for noodle cuts, but my saw can't clear chips that long very well. Take your time, it will be fine.

[Warren Lake]

why would you rip. Cross cut is easier and into blanks. Ive done it before and its fine I just needed to stop myself from the foot thing holding it down and using the front of the chain. Tree was dead a year for sure and more like two. It had one tiny branch on the bottom with leaves. Its gone straight into the wood stove sitting inside a few days from cut.

In the past I measured cut ash at 29 percent where maple would measure 45 percent cut same time. The lowest ash I measured just cut was 19 percent. The Delmnorst meter died last time went to use it, its been perfect since 86. I think that the batteries were slightly larger than usual and they put pressure one some electronic part. So normally id measure the moisture content and know. Its burning middle heat range if the chunks are not too large. Jims horse thing makes sense maybe wider pieces and they get cut into a bit. Kevin thanks on that gizmo thing.

[Dave Fritz]

We have Amish neighbors that split our wood. They'll use a maul on oak, cherry, walnut and hickory but when it comes to elm they use a splitter. Many times they need a hatchet even when using the splitter because the wood is so stringy.

[Kevin Jenness]

You know, I don't have any problem with 20" diameter chunks rolling on the ground while crosscutting, quite the opposite. I just cut down as far as practical, then roll the log with a canthook and complete the cuts. If it's too big to roll I take a chance on dulling the blade and cut through on the ground. If I do have a big piece that wants to roll I chock it with wedges. The Timberjack is useful to get logs up to about 12-14" off the ground. The sawbuck is for small stuff. I don't like to lift weights any more than necessary. I have used horizontal splitters, but the vertical type is a lot easier for me.

[Warren Lake]

The 24" have been cut already, I brake them up with the axe outside one or two hits on the outside then work around the whole chunk. That stuff is too heavy to lift on the chopping block. Breaking it off on the ground is easy and walk around. In the last two cases ive been left with impossible stuff. That stuff along with other stuff set aside that was cut from branches and splits is also impossible stuff.

You cant cut this difficult stuff that is already 16" even if ive done it enough. Ive butted the saw up against it on the ground cut half way flip it. I see it as a bad idea to cut discs this way.

I was also using my left foot like I do too often to just hold stuff and cut front section of the blade. It there is crap below the ground it not a concern. But putting your foot on something uneven that can roll at isnt great. Jims thing looks simple and workable, These are all small easy to lift. I just want them held take rolling out of the equation to slice them into discs.

Did this one on the ground and it was fine, cut 3/4 through roll over do the other side. The front teeth on the saw kept it there. Next one wanted to fly and ones that are chopped part way through they are angry so for sure some jig set up like Jim posted.


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[Fred Perreault]

Don’t split them at all. Turn them on a lathe to make some bowls for snacks to go with the beer while sitting by the fire.

[George Yetka]

an old tire. put the whole section in and split it all up before removing it.

[Warren Lake]

ive saved enough wood over the years spalted curly whatever, lots of it, always think there is some jewel inside and likely is with much of it. It stops me from putting it in the stove. I only have a small lathe and an old one from England that is in storage. Some small turning could be done Ive saved some big blanks of Ambrosia as well, likely enough to turn 50 bowls there. Gave some to a guy from a forum close by and he made the two bowls below. He has one of the fancy Oneway lathes and accessories.

Ive seen the tire trick for keeping stuff contained, never tried it dont really need to. Tire would do zero for this wood, this the wood that wont split. Anyone who has split enough ash knows there are going to be some amount that are just grief. I have a modified axe that works better than new.

A large portion of this ash tree was almost disappointing it blows up so easy like its a piece of china. I never thought to pay attention but likely stuff up and over 12 -14" or more splits easily. The one I did in discs was fine, inside it doesnt feel right to me. The potential to roll, plus often I work from the front under section of the blade, cant do that unless you use your foot and I waned t get away from that. The guy that told me about discs has split over 400 bush cords of wood. He also told me on the 20- 24" stuff or more to knock a side chunk off and work around in a circle so I listened and that worked really well.


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[Warren Lake]

havent had time to make something up but went out and cut a gaggle of them today. Saw some old horses out back flopped it down and put a strap which bent the 2 x 4 enough that it held. On a few I put a shim off cut in the front and it worked even better, very tight. Talked to a guy yesterday that sells chainsaws and he said they go in the firepit, Wranglestar you tuber said same thing. Not an option. Ive burned a number of them as discs and put into a fire that has been going for a while they burn very well. I know this is ickey mouse but there wasnt time and just wanted to get the stuff cut.

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