Compressor 101

[Ned Otter]

Hi everyone --

I'll soon receive a new slider, and at some point in the near future, a set of Mac's AirClamps.

I've never owned a compressor, and would like to hear from others who use these clamps what type of fittings, size of connectors, and type of tubing they use.

One question I have is if an air regulator is a recommended add-on, but perhaps that's actually part of the compresor itself (hence the title of this post).

Thanks in advance --

Ned

[Tom Bender]

Hi Ned
No help with the clamps but a few comments to the left of the clamps;

I have a Husky compressor, it's cheap and loud. It came with a regulator but the regulator leaked quietly and the compressor ran often. I removed the regulator and now it will hold pressure for months. Also the QD hose connects leak so the hose is only connected when needed. I should just add a valve before the hose but I use the thing about twice a year.

So my suggestions;

California compressors are quiet, other brands are too

Install a valve at the compressor and before the regulator, but not between the compressor and the relief valve

Don't mess with the relief valve, they are not normally adjustable or repairable.

Find out what quick disconnects and regulators don't leak, someone here should post on that

Air does not need big piping. Typically it get way oversized.

[Jim Becker]

I'm going to comment specifically on regulators. Plan on using multiple regulators in your system as there will be different requirements for different purposes. Products like air clamps do not "use" air like spraying finish or putting in nails; rather they depend upon a specific, constant pressure to do what they do. The same is true for other assistive pneumatic devices like the Z-axis assist that I have on my CNC machine. Since different devices require different pressure levels, you'll want a dedicated regulator for those that have expectations that are different that the overall "system" pressure.

Now if you're going to use a small compressor and dedicate it to the task, you can certainly use the on-board regulator that's typically on them to deal with the situation. You don't need a big compressor for devices like the clamps for the most part.

[Bob Betker]

I've got a California Air Tools compressor #4610 (4.6 gallons) and will attest to it being very quiet. I had an old Porter-Cable pancake style compressor and when the compressor kicked in, just forget about talking while its running. On the other hand, the CAT is very quiet, you can easily hold a conversation while it is running. I've never noticed the quick connects leaking, it holds its pressure very well. I bought my connectors from Lee Valley, they had a set that were on sale and they've worked just fine. At 45 pounds, the CAT 4610 is a little heavy to lug around but doable; I've never gotten around to making a cart for it, maybe this summer. Other than that, I'm very happy with the unit.
I use a Flexzilla hose, 25-30 feet, and it's a pleasure to use.

Rather than installing piping and fittings you might consider one of the retractable reel units. Good luck.

[Ned Otter]

Thanks, Jim - exactly the type of feedback I was interested in.

The compressor will also need to "power" a brad nailer, that's the only other pneumatic device I have in the shop at the moment. Haven't decided on a compressor yet, but what ever it is, it will need to be on wheels. Had looked at the 20 gallon Ingersoll-Rand, as it's mobile. But other smaller units could be made to be mobile if desired. Still trying to figure it all out.

thanks again

[Bert McMahan]

Both clamps and a brad nailer require VERY little air to run. I have used the California Air Tools compressors "quiet" line and they're great. There are other quiet ones on the market now too. My California Air Tools one was stolen and I replaced it with a Lowes model that I can't recall the name of (80% sure it's a Kobalt) but it's a "quiet" one too, and it's indeed very quiet. As in, my cats look at it funny, but don't bolt from the room when it turns on.

[John Lifer]

Get as quiet as you can. I've a small HF quiet compressor and I can actually hear and think when it runs as compared to my old dewalt pancake which was deafening. I didn't even like using it outside.

[Kris Cook]

Don't know what your volume requirements are but I recently got a Senco PC1010N which puts out 0.7 scfm @ 90psi. I have two other compressors but this one is extremely quiet and doesn't vibrate. It is going under my assembly table permanently to run a crown stapler, pinner, or brad nailer. Purchased at HD.

[Bill Dufour]

Extend the drain port and install a ball valve so it is easy to drain after every run.
Bill D

[Kris Cook]

Extend the drain port and install a ball valve so it is easy to drain after every run.
Bill D

Good call Bill. I will do that.

[Jay Runde]

Mac's clamps include an air regulator that magnetically attaches to the saw chassis.

[Josh Molaver]

Good suggestions here, especially extending the drain and adding a ball valve - get in the habit of draining it periodically - it will significantly extend the life of the tank.

for quick connect fittings, check out Stedlin. I found them on garage journal… US and family made, I’ve switched over completely to them. (Normal disclaimer- no relation to them besides happy customer).

[tom lucas]

I have a 1 -1/2 HP 20 gallon california Air compressor. Very quiet and meets all my needs: blowing off, ROS, nailers, blowing out pool & water pipes, pumping up tires, socket ratchet. I don't think I have a chore that requires high volume air. I also like the hard rubber tires on the compressor. Nothing more aggravating that having to pump up the tires on the compressor before you can roll it to where you want to use it, especially if the valve stems "disappear" into the wheel. Even though it's quiet, I keep it in another room and plumb hoses through my building. I keep a portable hose handy for when I need to use it somewhere outside the shop. I do need to try those Stelin couplers. They look real nice.

[Derek Meyer]

I have 5 air compressors, actually. I have a very small Paasche air compressor that is very quiet but only puts out enough air to run an airbrush. I have a Porter Cable pancake compressor that works okay but is so loud I don't want it anywhere near me when running. I bought a small California Air compressor to replace it, which is so much quieter. You can actually have a conversation next to it while it is running. I have a very old wheelbarror-style compressor that my dad gave me which he used to run his framing nailers when he was building. It can run off of 120V or 240V but it is very loud and I wouldn't want to use it inside. Then, I have a large stationary compressor that I bought years ago with the intention of creating a hardline air distribution system in my garage. Well, years have gone by and it's still sitting in my basement. I'm not sure I've every even turned it on. One of these days, I suppose....

[Mark Brewer]

I have a P/C pancake compressor, does great for my needs, it’s in a cabinet so that really cuts down on noise, definitely makes a difference.
I also drain regularly.

[Jim Becker]

Thanks, Jim - exactly the type of feedback I was interested in.

The compressor will also need to "power" a brad nailer, that's the only other pneumatic device I have in the shop at the moment. Haven't decided on a compressor yet, but what ever it is, it will need to be on wheels. Had looked at the 20 gallon Ingersoll-Rand, as it's mobile. But other smaller units could be made to be mobile if desired. Still trying to figure it all out.

thanks again

The IR GarageMate is a really nice portable compressor...decent performance and runs on 120v 20 amp power. My suggestion would be to have a dedicated regulator at the slider so you have the pressure nailed for that application and leave the compressor mounted regulator set to 90 lbs for pneumatic nailing which is likely higher than you want/need for the clamps. (but I don't know what their requirements are for)

[Ned Otter]

Thanks, Jim

[Bill Dufour]

The horror fright $6 regulator is small and lightweight with a gauge. Nice for nail guns. Be careful the more expensive version is not a regulator it is just a needle valve with a gauge. The $6 one often goes on sale. I have one with quick connects on it that moves between tools at the end of the hose.
probably too small for blasting but works with their paint gun.
Bill D.

https://www.harborfreight.com/150-psi-air-compressor-regulator-kit-with-dial-gauge-68223.html

[Michael Schuch]

Go big or go small. For years I used a 40 gal 3hp comprssor. It was too big to be portable for stuff like nailing in trim in the house with a brad nailer or a quick tire. It was also too small for tools with bigger air volume requirements like sanders and a blast cabinet.

For your clamps I would go with one of the smaller, lighter units like the California air tool compressors mentioned above. Clamps should consume very little air.

Stay away from cheap Harbor Freight and big box (HD and Lowes) cheap quick fittings. I have a bunch of them and it is kind of like running a new main water line into the house with wooden pipes.

[Carl Beckett]

Go big or go small. For years I used a 40 gal 3hp comprssor. It was too big to be portable for stuff like nailing in trim in the house with a brad nailer or a quick tire. It was also too small for tools with bigger air volume requirements like sanders and a blast cabinet.



+1 on this. I have a large reconditioned IR compressor for things like sandblasting. But then I have a small wheelbarrow compressor for portability and convenience.

Dewalt 8gal wheelbarrow compressor. I like it because it runs on 110V OR 220V (depends on what I want, 220V for the higher demand/higher pressure uses). Also it is a traditional 2 stage 'piston' compressor. Running at low RPM. This makes it both quiet and long life.

[George Yetka]

I bought 2-100' of flexzilla and bought ends so I cut 1 of the hoses into a 50',35',15'. This gives me enough to get to any corner of the house for trim.

I have gone though a bunch of compressors. The first I bought was an 80 gallon IR when I was working on cars. Unfortunately its 208 3ph so it stayed at my office. My company goes through 1 or 2 a year leak testing pipe. We buy those in a wide variety some very small if the job consists of a small amount of small bore pipe. We will go as big as we can and be portable and work off 15/20 amp 110 outlets. Leak testing puts a pretty big strain on them.

For my house I trade with work often right now I have a cheep pancake but have had larger semi decent ones. It is loud and forces me to use 18 gauge brads because my grex cordless is 18. I should buy the 23 gauge cordless and sell off the corded stuff. So I dont have to here the compressor.

Final thoughts Get something with a 5 gallon tank if you have the room so it wont run as often. Quiet is a good thing. Hoses/fittings are important. Bubble test all joints so the thing wont run when not in use. Maintain it

[Bill Dufour]

Even the cheap HF quick connects can be taken apart and new O-rings installed. Problem is I do not know the size or a local source for the O-rings. Every time I need to fix one I need it now so i just buy a new one to replace it.
Bill D

[Tom M King]

Some of my Milton type H connectors are 47 years old, and still working. There are better ones now, but I'm well used to these, and have way too many to think about changing. They pass enough air to run anything but the rock drill.

I think the only one I ever changed was the coupler at the connection of two 100' hoses that got drug out of the step van almost every day for the 25 years I was using one. The outside was worn down so smooth that it was a pain to activate it.

[Ned Otter]

thanks much to all who replied, much appreciated