Edge/Flush Trimming Jigs

[Tom Bain]

I have an upcoming project involving of A LOT of plywood panels with applied hardwood edging that will need to be flush trimmed. I know there are a bunch of different ways to do this and I have used several different methods in the past. I’m interested in building a jig to make the whole process more efficient, so show me your favorite jigs!

[Dave Zellers]

For me the best is simply a piece of flat 3/4" ply, mounted to the table saw fence vertically about an inch above the table.
Position the fence so the blade is under the plywood and flush with the edge. Pass the piece on edge, nosing down and flip it around to do both sides.

You can set up the same thing on a router table.

[Jamie Buxton]

No jig. Flush trim bit in a palm router. Clamp the panel vertical so that the router can stand on the banding. Hold the router near the base to avoid tilting it.

[Ray Newman]

Dave Zellers is onto it. I do the same, except the jig is router table mounted. Quick to fabricate; easy to use.

[Jamie Buxton]

For me the best is simply a piece of flat 3/4" ply, mounted to the table saw fence vertically about an inch above the table.
Position the fence so the blade is under the plywood and flush with the edge. Pass the piece on edge, nosing down and flip it around to do both sides.

You can set up the same thing on a router table.

This can work if the plywood is straight. If the plywood is curved (as so much seems to be these days), the blade is going to not be flush at some part of the run. That's why I use a bearing-guided flush trim router bit. It stays flush to the ply's face even if the play is warped.

[Dave Zellers]

This can work if the plywood is straight. If the plywood is curved (as so much seems to be these days), the blade is going to not be flush at some part of the run. That's why I use a bearing-guided flush trim router bit. It stays flush to the ply's face even if the play is warped.

Yes- good point. I've always had trouble keeping the router from tipping. I've never done this but on a router table you could pad out the tall fence right above the bit which would allow for some curve in the ply. Also use a bit with a bottom bearing.

[Larry Frank]

I just did a project with plywood and oak edging. I saw a review fir the FastCap Little Lipper and bought it. It worked great with my DeWalt trim router. I always had struggled trimming the edging and this was fantastic.

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[Alan Lightstone]

For me the best is simply a piece of flat 3/4" ply, mounted to the table saw fence vertically about an inch above the table.
Position the fence so the blade is under the plywood and flush with the edge. Pass the piece on edge, nosing down and flip it around to do both sides.

You can set up the same thing on a router table.

Having trouble visualizing this, but sounds interesting.

Any pictures with the workpiece on the plywood?

Personally, I just use a handheld palm router, and yes, tipping is a concern.

[Joe Calhoon]

I have a portable flush trimmer but for large quantities I prefer the shaper. The feeder takes the worry out of bowed plywood. I use a rebate cutter with knickers to get a clean cut.
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[ChrisA Edwards]

Would love to see a picture of the cutter block you are using there Joe, thanks.

[Robert Engel]

This can work maybe with the Fast Cap jig, but a balancing act with a router is a very dangerous way to flush trim.

[Matt Day]

I’d for sure get the lipper. Cheapest easiest solution in my mind.

[Warren Lake]

there are lipping tools made for this which will out perform a router. I dont think a router is dangerous its just a tiny radius bit and will fall short compared to the proper tool for doing that. Depends on how much over hang you have to do, how much volume and how wide the edge is as well. Lipping tools can do solid over 2" wide

[Bruce Wrenn]

I used to make cubbies and cabinets for local "Y's". Lots of 1/4" edge banding. I used trim router with a flush trim bit. With panels standing upright clamp two panels (same height) and a third (shorter) between them. This gave me extra support for router to prevent tipping. You could do them on the flat on the router table. Double stick tape a piece of plywood to table, with a cut out for bit. Leave a 1/4"-3/8" gap between fence and plywood. Lay panel on ply, and route right to left.

[Kevin Jenness]

I am on the same page as Joe - a laminate trimmer in a jig for a few panels (spindle parallel with the panel face), and the shaper with power feed for more pieces. I use a rabbeting cutter with scoring. Tipping a router on a narrow edge is an easy fail.

Another simple setup is a half-width sub-base on a router with a straight cutter set flush with the bottom of the sub-base, climb cutting to avoid tearout at the edge.

[Dave Sabo]

There’s always this :

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[Ole Anderson]

Router table with a tall fence and a flush trimming bit.

[Joe Calhoon]

Would love to see a picture of the cutter block you are using there Joe, thanks.
Chris,
I just used my Garniga Multiuse cutter. It is basically a adjustable groover- rebate block with attachments for other cuts. The knickers give a clean cut since it is coming from the edge. I think any rebate block or adjustable groover with knickers would work as well.
I have a Virutex lipping planer that cuts from the top but it’s a little fussy to use. I prefer the shaper for larger quantities.

Hoffmann and Lamelo have really nice lipping planers but spendy unless you use them a lot.
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[Alan Lightstone]

Out of curiousity I looked up the Lamello Cantex, which I had never heard of. Is this old news and has been discontinued years ago by Lamello?

[ChrisA Edwards]

I have the Festool MK700 and also the Fastcap Little Lipper. Both work well.

The Festool has a couple of things that you need to be aware of, first, it will only take a 5/8" cut length bit (without user modification to the flush fence), so your edge banding piece cannot be deeper than that. Also if you edgebanding piece has more than an 1/8" waste, the fence system doesn't have enough recess to allow it to cut this excess and rest on the finish surface, so it's difficult to start the cut.

With these limitations, I find myself reaching for the Fastcap Little Lipper, usually installed on my trim router.

I do use some of the tablesaw and router methods, mentioned earlier, but that depends upon how manageable the panel is when feeding through these tools.

[Warren Lake]

The big shops had a guy that customized tools and made machinery mods. They made lipping tools out of power planers.

[Dave Zellers]

Another simple setup is a half-width sub-base on a router with a straight cutter set flush with the bottom of the sub-base, climb cutting to avoid tearout at the edge.

Yes- I've done that and still have the base I made. It also solves the problem of a bowed piece.

[Tom Bain]

Chris,
I just used my Garniga Multiuse cutter. It is basically a adjustable groover- rebate block with attachments for other cuts. The knickers give a clean cut since it is coming from the edge. I think any rebate block or adjustable groover with knickers would work as well.
I have a Virutex lipping planer that cuts from the top but it’s a little fussy to use. I prefer the shaper for larger quantities.

Hoffmann and Lamelo have really nice lipping planers but spendy unless you use them a lot.
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Joe — I was looking at the Virutex lipping planer. How fussy is fussy? :-). I’m pretty sure both the Hoffman and Lamello are no longer made.

[Tom Bain]

Router table with a tall fence and a flush trimming bit.

Yep, this is my usual go to method. I will have some larger panels to do (like 27x48) and not sure if this set-up is going to work for those.

[Warren Lake]

I dont know who makes this but have it saved with the Hoffman. Ive never used one from a manufacturer only custom made ones and they worked excellent. Handle might be on the opposite side on this. I dont have time to go search this but maybe you can type in a model number and the manufacturer comes up.


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[Dave Sabo]

I dont know who makes this but have it saved with the Hoffman. Ive never used one from a manufacturer only custom made ones and they worked excellent. Handle might be on the opposite side on this. I dont have time to go search this but maybe you can type in a model number and the manufacturer comes up.


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Virutex makes that one.

[Larry Frank]

I liked the Little Lipper from FastCap because it was cheaper than most of the other suggestions at about $50 and it works really well. I used a three wing router bit and got really good results .

[Joe Calhoon]

Joe — I was looking at the Virutex lipping planer. How fussy is fussy? :-). I’m pretty sure both the Hoffman and Lamello are no longer made.

Tom, in skilled hands it works fine. The balance is not great and you have to be careful running on to the work. The depth adjustment is fussy but once you get it set it’s OK. I only do cabinetry for myself now but 20 years ago we were doing 4 or 5 houses per year. Only my top hand could run it, most had trouble with it. About that time I was considering upgrading to the Adler lipping planer sold by Hoffmann. I tried one at a show and was night and day better. I believe it is still available. I did hear the Lammelo one was not available anymore.