Attaching crown molding to kitchen cabinets

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Hi All,

I need to put crown molding on these kitchen cabinets. What should I put on the cabinet tops to nail the crown molding to and what is the general procedure for this? I'd appreciate any info. on doing this as I've never done it before. Thank you.

[Jim Hager]

Hi All,

I need to put crown molding on these kitchen cabinets. What should I put on the cabinet tops to nail the crown molding to and what is the general procedure for this? I'd appreciate any info. on doing this as I've never done it before. Thank you.

If I were doing crown on those cabinets I would nail a cleat on the top of the boxes that would be proud of the edge by about 1/4" -1/2" to then nail the crown molding to that cleat. That will give you a place to fasten the molding and it will step the molding out to nearly the surface of the doors. I'm sure someone else will have another idea that you might consider also.

[Hal Flynt]

I agree with Jim and will add something to that. I used what is called a "bed mold" and to make it look right I added 2 strips on top of the cabinets. The first strip was sized to allow the installation of the molding with about a 3/16" coverage of the top (I mean the bottom of the molding covers the face frame from the top about 3/16")
Then I routed "classic bit" profile in the second piece that over hung the cabinet to top it off creating a two profile cornice.

I will try to draw it if you need me to.

[Jim Young]

We did that to our last house. I made some 3/4" x 2" stock to nail flat on top of the cabinet. Had the bottom edge protrude out, this adds to the architectural detail. Then the crown was nailed to it on the side.

[Kent Parker]

Alan,

My current project at home is changing all the molding around window and door openings to crown molding. I have been gluing up the "crown" on my bench and find it is much easier than trying to work overhead with individual pieces. This is a glued up piece ready for primer 29782

This is a end profile 29783
A glued up corner. 29784I use a fast setting glue, hang on to the miters with my little heater aimed at the joint until the glue sets then drill and nail through into the long molding section.

For your installation, the wide piece (on my door molding) would be replaced with a piece that would allow you to fasten the entire assembly down through the glued on cleat onto the top of the cabinet casing. I simulated an example in this photo 29785

Your could easily cut, glue and finish the entire piece(s) on your bench then install with the minimum of "air" time.

Here's more on the subject on one of my previous posts. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=22232

Cheers,

Kent

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Wow Kent that is a great tutorial on applying crown molding! Thank you very much. I think I'll give that a try. As long as I can match the shade pretty well I think it should look good. Thanks again. Alan

[Alan Tolchinsky]

If I were doing crown on those cabinets I would nail a cleat on the top of the boxes that would be proud of the edge by about 1/4" -1/2" to then nail the crown molding to that cleat. That will give you a place to fasten the molding and it will step the molding out to nearly the surface of the doors. I'm sure someone else will have another idea that you might consider also.

That sounds like a great method. If I understand you correctly you would be able to see some of the nailer strip that's proud of the case. Am I right? Then you would stain to match I'm guessing. Thanks. Alan

[Alan Tolchinsky]

I agree with Jim and will add something to that. I used what is called a "bed mold" and to make it look right I added 2 strips on top of the cabinets. The first strip was sized to allow the installation of the molding with about a 3/16" coverage of the top (I mean the bottom of the molding covers the face frame from the top about 3/16")
Then I routed "classic bit" profile in the second piece that over hung the cabinet to top it off creating a two profile cornice.

I will try to draw it if you need me to.

Thanks Hal. I understand the first part buy not the whole description. If you could illustrate it that would be great!

[Jim Hager]

That sounds like a great method. If I understand you correctly you would be able to see some of the nailer strip that's proud of the case. Am I right? Then you would stain to match I'm guessing. Thanks. Alan

Yeah, just stain to match and clearcoat with your chosen top coat.