What am I doing wrong - Spraying Exterior Latex

[Alan Lightstone]

I'm quite experienced shooting pre-cat lacquer which is my go to finish, but I have an exterior piece that I am having issues with.

The paint is Sherwin-Williams Exterior Super Paint Acrylic Latex.

HVLP gun is Fuji T-70
Tip size 1.8
Turbine - Fuji Q4 Platinum

I would think my tip size is appropriate for the paint, and the 4-stage turbine should provide enough power.

This is what the first coat of the finish looks like:
471536

I did add about 50 ml of Floetrol to one quart cup in my 3M PPS system. I didn't check the viscosity (I'm so used to using the same Pre-Cat Lacquer, that I haven't done that in a while.)

So what adjustments do I need to make? This is spraying splotchy, and certainly doesn't level out like lacquer.

[Tom M King]

The turbine might be heating it up enough that it sets before it has time to flow out.

[John TenEyck]

Alan, you need to measure the viscosity. I suspect it will be really high; like 500 seconds (if you can wait that long) through a #4 Ford cup. You'll likely need to get it down to less than 1/2 of that in order for it to spray well. If you have to add more than 10% water to do that I would look for a different product.

I once sprayed SW's Emerald Exterior Acrylic latex and could not get it flow out no matter what I did. If the Super Paint you are using is anything like that you probably won't be successful either unless you use an airless sprayer. I switched to Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel and it was a world of difference; sprays and flows out beautifully. It's a completely different product and much better suited to HVLP guns. I still had to thin it 10% for good atomization but after that it was great. I'm not suggesting that it's the right product for your needs, only that some products are better suited to airless sprayers while others can be successfully sprayed with a broader range of spray gun types. Good luck.

John

[Alan Lightstone]

John:

I'll have to measure it tomorrow. Thanks for the detailed response.

Can I add both Floetrol and up to 10% water to thin it, or is it a total amount of dilution limit?

The Floetrol TDS states that you can add up to 8oz of Floetrol to a quart of latex paint (which seems like a huge amount). I added 50 ml, which is a drop in the bucket (about 1.7 oz) compared to that.

[Jim Becker]

Alan, because of how waterborne finishes work, when you exceed the suggested 10% thinning limit (and to me that means both water and extender/conditioner like Flotrol) you start to spread the paint molecules out to the point that you start to have coverage issues and potentially a less durable finish as the actual finish cures/coeleces. Water is not the solvent for waterborne finishes...it's just the carrier. So I agree with John...you may not be able to spray that finish with your rig and an airless might be a better choice to get it done.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I only use an airless for that type of work and paint. (or a roller and brush)

[John TenEyck]

I really have no good experience with Floetrol, Alan, sorry. I've only used it a couple of times when brushing/rolling paint in hot weather and it didn't seem to do anything. When I started spraying I looked for another product. I found GF's Extender, which I use for clearcoats, and BM's Extender which I use for paints. Both work very well. With the BM product, which I buy at my local BM retail store, I think they say you can use up to 6%.

I try to follow the maximum thinning limits for the product I'm using. With some waterborne products the PDS says you can add up to 20%, others 10%. Look and see what SW's says for the product you are using but truthfully, if it says 10% I wouldn't hesitate to use a few more percent if that makes the difference between success or failure, and sometimes a few percent makes a huge difference in viscosity. In any case, if another go at it doesn't work it's probably time to change products or spray gun.

John

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Benjamin Moores "extender" will thin it down enough, but you will be exceeding the recommendations.

(no title) (https://media.benjaminmoore.com/WebServices/prod/assets/stage/datasheets/TDS_0518/20180731%20518%20TDS%20US%20OKF.pdf)

I will paste the data sheet, B.M. Extender is a great product. I have good results using it with many brands of paint.

[Alan Lightstone]

It's a one-off project, so doesn't make sense to buy airless for it.

I think it did level off somewhat, but I would never accept that initial spray on a typical project I do.

OK. Off to the workshop to measure the viscosity, and try to dilute it somewhat. I'll measure before and after.
I may try 4 oz of Floetrol in a quart of paint. 12.5% Will probably try that first. Perhaps add some water to that too. Seems way too dilute.

SW website for the paint says reduction not required. Not helpful at all regarding this.

On Phelps Refinishing site, their recommendations with the Fuji guns to spray latex are:
1) Use the air cap set 1.8mm.
2) Thin the paint upwards of 20% with water.
3) Use additives if necessary.
4) Add the 6-ft whip hose to reduce air temperature through the gun.
5) Hold the gun no more than 8″ (20cm) away.
6) Apply a full, wet coat.
7.) Turn the fluid adjusting screw to limit the paint to a finer spray.

He specifically states that Floetrol is an additive, not a thinner, though the caption for Floetrol calls it one of the popular thinners. :confused:


What do people use for tip size to spray latex? It looks like the tips for my T70 gun go up to 2.5, but I never considered buying any that large.

[Alan Lightstone]

OK. As John thought, the viscosity through a Ford #4 cap for the undiluted paint was 296 seconds (yup, hard to wait that long).

With 50 ml of Floetrol/quart, the viscosity went down to 219 seconds.
With 150 ml of Floetrol/qt the viscosity went down to 63 seconds.

So I used the 150ml/qt and sprayed. Yup, the sprayed coating on the wood was very thin, but didn't run at all on vertical surfaces. I did turn the fluid adjusting screw far tighter than I usually wood, per Phelp's suggestion, but it also seemed like way too light a coat.

Certainly not as easy as spraying pre-cat lacquer, or shellac, but I'll get through it.

I'm assuming that 63 seconds is still crazy thick?

[John TenEyck]

63 seconds is likely far lower than what your gun is capable of spraying well. I would limit the Floetrol to 50 ml/quart (5%) and use water to get the viscosity down to around 100 seconds. I'll bet that will spray well for you. Of course, the coating will be thinner than spraying it neat from the can, and you may have to spray an extra coat, but that's the compromise you have to accept when your equipment and product aren't really compatible.

John

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I plan to get a Graco Ultra hand held for small projects. The regular paint pump is too much trouble and takes most of a gallon just to fill the pump and lines. A pressure pot helps with thick paint but still does not do well with latex. I paint a lot of doors on homes. With the Benjamin Moore Extender, good paint, and careful use of a roller followed by a brush, I can get results that look like oil paint or a sprayer was used.

[Tom M King]

Use a smaller, short line for an airless, and there is not that much paint in the rig. I push most of it back in the can with water. I think my small line is 1/4x15 feet. It's good for small jobs. To me the regular airless is less trouble to clean than the small ones.

[Alan Lightstone]

Speaking of which, the biggest issue/annoyance with spraying this is clean up of the gun. So easy with lacquer, such a royal paid with the latex. Any hints for doing this. Dried latex or drying latex all throughout the gun, even though I've been cleaning it immediately after spraying. Not used to having to clean it multiple times a day.

Really should have just brushed this. :(

[Jim Becker]

I only use waterborne finishes and that very occasionally occasionally includes "house paint" type products. I use hot water right from the tap in the kitchen sink and have never had an issue with cleaning my gun(s). Should something actually be dried, a solvent cleaner can be used, but I try to avoid that by cleaning immediately once the job is done.

[John TenEyck]

Woah, why is the paint drying "all throughout the gun"? That should only happen if you disassemble the gun and don't clean it. Waterborne products are about the easiest thing to clean. Dump out the cup, flush water and/or soapy water through the cup and gun, then disassemble and clean out what remains inside the gun with warm soapy water. Reassemble and blow some air through it. It takes 5 or 10 minutes, start to finish.

I clean off the air cap and tip of the needle after each spray session, but only clean the gun at the end of the day. There's no need to unless you are spraying something that's catalyzed with a short pot life or the finish has something in it that settles out very quickly.

John

[Alan Lightstone]

Really more paint all inside the gun, not drying, though there were some dried spots.

I've been cleaning out the gun, and air cap after every spraying. Then spraying water through it. Takes more than 5-10 minutes.

Haven't tried hot water and soap. I'll try that next.

Using 3M PPS system, so the cups fortunately a non-issue.

[John TenEyck]

I clean my gun only at the end of the day. If you open the needle wide open water will flush out most of the paint inside the gun before you disassemble it. I wasn't kidding when I said it's a 5 - 10 minute job. Remove the nozzle and needle, flush the internals again, brush out the internals with soapy water and flush, clean the inside of the nozzle with a brush and soapy water and flush, wipe the needle clean, and reassemble.

If it's taking a lot longer there must be something unique about your gun.

John

[Jim Becker]

Alan, I rinsed and reused the PPS cup liners, too. I've had the tool for something like three years and am only on my third cup with the previous one still usable. :)

[John TenEyck]

Same here. The liners and lids last a really long time with waterbornes. When I clean the gun at the end of the day, but plan to spray the same stuff the next day, I remove the PPS cup from the gun and put a plug in the lid. There's no need to clean it out between uses, although I do remove the lid and stir the contents the next day before spraying to make sure everything is well mixed.

John

[Alan Lightstone]

I clean my gun only at the end of the day. If you open the needle wide open water will flush out most of the paint inside the gun before you disassemble it. I wasn't kidding when I said it's a 5 - 10 minute job. Remove the nozzle and needle, flush the internals again, brush out the internals with soapy water and flush, clean the inside of the nozzle with a brush and soapy water and flush, wipe the needle clean, and reassemble.

If it's taking a lot longer there must be something unique about your gun.

John


I only use waterborne finishes and that very occasionally occasionally includes "house paint" type products. I use hot water right from the tap in the kitchen sink and have never had an issue with cleaning my gun(s). Should something actually be dried, a solvent cleaner can be used, but I try to avoid that by cleaning immediately once the job is done.

OK guys. Feeling pretty dumb right about now. I'm so used to spraying solvent based finishes, I never thought of just running hot water from the sink in the gun. The opening up the tip wide open trick works great too. I'm sure this is all old news to both of you, but it was eye-opening for me. And thanks so much for the suggestions. Worked great when I tried it this evening. Much quicker and cleaner.

I have been reusing the PPS cup for this latex job and capping it, but otherwise have gone through a number of them when spraying lacquer.

I did change the filter cap on the PPS cup the next morning. Is that even necessary?

[Allan Speers]

John:

Can I add both Floetrol and up to 10% water to thin it, or is it a total amount of dilution limit?

The Floetrol TDS states that you can add up to 8oz of Floetrol to a quart of latex paint (which seems like a huge amount). I added 50 ml, which is a drop in the bucket (about 1.7 oz) compared to that.


No recommendation from me, but realize that Floetrol is not used to thin the paint, but rather to help slow drying time.

Someone else mentioned heat from the turbine might be causing your paint to dry quickly. That was an issue for me when spraying thick multispec. I added a 5' whip hose, and immediately noticed a small improvement, so you might consider that. (It makes it much easier to work, as well.)

And one more HUGE improvement for spraying latex is to get an HVCLP adaptor. This turns your suction cup into a sort of semi-pressurized pot, and then lets you use the gun's original air control to beter dial-in the spray quality. You can get one from these guys, for around $60 delivered, IIRC
AMERICAN TURBINE LLC 1-877-748-4857 (They are the US distributor.)
I added this to my 4-stage turbine system, and the difference was not subtle. HIGHLY recommended.

[Alan Lightstone]

No recommendation from me, but realize that Floetrol is not used to thin the paint, but rather to help slow drying time.

Someone else mentioned heat from the turbine might be causing your paint to dry quickly. That was an issue for me when spraying thick multispec. I added a 5' whip hose, and immediately noticed a small improvement, so you might consider that. (It makes it much easier to work, as well.)

And one more HUGE improvement for spraying latex is to get an HVCLP adaptor. This turns your suction cup into a sort of semi-pressurized pot, and then lets you use the gun's original air control to beter dial-in the spray quality. You can get one from these guys, for around $60 delivered, IIRC
AMERICAN TURBINE LLC 1-877-748-4857 (They are the US distributor.)
I added this to my 4-stage turbine system, and the difference was not subtle. HIGHLY recommended.


As it turns out, helping to slow the drying time seems to have helped the most. So I've been using 50ml Floetrol per quart, and no added water which seems to work ok. Certainly not as nice as spraying lacquer, but I'm getting the job done.

Never heard of a HVCLP adapter. I looked on YouTube, and saw it, but I almost always use full air supply pressure from the flexible hose whip (which I do have) when spraying, and not sure how this would help in my case. I may be missing something here.

I used the 3M PPS cup system, so it is under pressure anyway. Does this eliminate the utility of that HVCLP adapter?

Oh, and thanks again, guys, for the tips regarding cleaning the gun with hot water running through the gun. Works much better than my previous approach. It does take about 5 min per cleaning, so a huge improvement.

[Ken Krawford]

Interesting comment about cleaning the gun with hot water. When using latex based paints I've always used cold water thinking that hot water would cause the paint to congeal. I'll have to give hot a try.
As an aside, I just replaced my very old 4 stage Graco HVLP system with the Fuji Mini-Mite 4 and a T-70 gun. I tear the gun down immediately after each use but find I have to work much harder to get this brand new gun clean compared to my old Graco one.

[Alan Lightstone]

Interesting comment about cleaning the gun with hot water. When using latex based paints I've always used cold water thinking that hot water would cause the paint to congeal. I'll have to give hot a try.
As an aside, I just replaced my very old 4 stage Graco HVLP system with the Fuji Mini-Mite 4 and a T-70 gun. I tear the gun down immediately after each use but find I have to work much harder to get this brand new gun clean compared to my old Graco one.

I find it harder to clean than my old Fuji GPS gun too.

[Jim Becker]

Interesting comment about cleaning the gun with hot water. When using latex based paints I've always used cold water thinking that hot water would cause the paint to congeal. I'll have to give hot a try.
As an aside, I just replaced my very old 4 stage Graco HVLP system with the Fuji Mini-Mite 4 and a T-70 gun. I tear the gun down immediately after each use but find I have to work much harder to get this brand new gun clean compared to my old Graco one.
Heating things up seems to help any partially drying paint to peel off. I can clean my gun in about five minutes and that includes waiting for the water to get hot. :)

[Ken Krawford]

I just did a cleanup with hot water and it worked very well. The cup had been sitting for several days about 1/4 full with paint and dried paint on the sides. Hot water and a fairly coarse Scotchbrite pad and it's like new. Thanks for the tip.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Scrub things with some sudsy ammonia along with the heated water & things should go even a little better.

[Alan Lightstone]

Scrub things with some sudsy ammonia along with the heated water & things should go even a little better.

I read that denatured alcohol is good for cleaning dried latex paint. Anyone use that on their guns?

[Jim Becker]

I read that denatured alcohol is good for cleaning dried latex paint. Anyone use that on their guns?
I use acetone when I need a deep clean of anything that's been used for "latex" paint including getting any gunk out of brushes. I do not believe that DNA is going to do anything, although it's nice as a final rinse.

[Alan Lightstone]

I use acetone when I need a deep clean of anything that's been used for "latex" paint including getting any gunk out of brushes. I do not believe that DNA is going to do anything, although it's nice as a final rinse.

Is acetone better than lacquer thinner for that deep cleaning?

[Jim Becker]

Is acetone better than lacquer thinner for that deep cleaning?

Better? Probably not, but I'm not a fan of lacquer thinner for safety reasons. Acetone has to be used with care, but it's not as bad as lacquer thinner. 'Just a personal choice on my part.

[Tom M King]

Use Brush Cleaner if it's set up. The low VOC version even works pretty good. I use a lot of Acetone, but always outside in open air. Can't be as bad as gelcoat kicking in a gun-have to use Styrene for that, and you probably can't even buy it in California.

for brush cleaning: Every time I clean a brush used for paint, also in the job is one of the small stainless steel brushes with angled bristles. You only sweep one way. Even if the brush has only been used for ten minutes, the brush will help. Done in a sink with water, and continue until the brush looks like new, and only clear water can be squeezed out of it. Let dry, and put back in the cover that it came in. A brush is cleaned before it gets laid down to start with.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I read that denatured alcohol is good for cleaning dried latex paint. Anyone use that on their guns?Alcohol may (very slight chance) have an adverse effect on Aluminum. Granted, it would take a very high concentration & elevated temperatures, but, who knows what conditions can come together by chance?

As an FYI - w/regard to Ammonia - that can affect copper, zinc and brass - so be aware of that. I forgot to mention that above.

[Jery Madigan]

I'm late to this party, but would like tadd a couple of things.

First, brush cleaner (I use Kleenstrip) from the orange store is the most effctive sovent to dissolve waterborne paints. If you read the labels, it is the only one rated for that purpose. I clean my fuji gun ith warm water fter evcery use, but shoot about 20 oz of brush cleaner once in a while.

Second, go airless for painting a house. Go airless for painting cabinets. The high-end cabinet finshes (Renner, Centurion, Milesi) layout 10 times better with airless. Trust me, I have a mini mite 4 and have tried both. These finishes are far more durable than anything I know of that can be efectively shot with a turbine.

You don't have to break the bank to go airless. I bought my original Graco X5 for $260 and it shows up on Amazon just north of $300 if you track it with something like Keepa. It was $302 for the last week of January and does that occasionally. It ia powerful enough to spray a house and I have had good luck on kitchen cabinets. More powerful and versstile than the handhelds.

There is absolutely no need to waste a gallon of paint for a short run. This is especially true if you add a hopper. A guy on youtube worked out the fittings to make a hopper for the X5. Here is his video with the parts list in description.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUySZ3iB1BA&t=233s



I made one of these and it is way easier to run small batches with the hopper. I t seems to requir3e 20-24 oz t fill the system but about half of that is recoverable when done. You cant spray with only 4oz of finish to start like you can with PPS< but not bad and definietly not a gallon.

I made his hopper with two modifications. I attach the hopper to the machine with a strip velcro around each of the near leg and handle - much more secure than his metal strip and easy to remove the hopper to take it to the sink to clean.

Second, he doesn't say, but it looks like he cannibalized his suction tube to use with hsi hopper. I did not want to ruin the suction tube assembly, but found the same tubing at Lowes - look for 5/8" reinvforced hose for 10' for about $20. This raises the hopper to st to more like $40 but quite the bargain. You actually only need about 12" of tubing, so maybe you can find it by the foot.

The other upgrade I made is to use the Tritech ultra-finish tips. Those run about $37.

I find myself using the airless about 3:1 vs the turbine. No thinnng (sometimes thickening), better finish and fewer coats.

[Ole Anderson]

Latex=airless. My first experience was renting an airless to paint a dozen 6 panel doors for my son. Since then I bought a Graco X5 and have used it on probably a dozen projects. Just another tool in your arsenal. BTW, any unused paint in the hoses gets pumped back into your can, pushed through by water.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I learned the hard way to stop painting long before the cleaning water makes it to the gun. At least a quart of paint is lost to the cleaning process on my rig. Eventually I will get a project that justifies getting a Graco Ultra Max cordless. With the cost of paint these days it won't take long recoup the expense.

[Tom M King]

I don't use a hopper, but push the leftover back in the container with water. A little extra water in waterbourne doesn't hurt anything. Take the tip out, and turn the pressure down to run it back. I can't believe I lose a quart of paint.

For inside, and finish jobs, I use a 1/4 x short hose. They make 3/16 x 25 foot hose now, but I haven't bought one of those yet. The 1/4x25 doesn't hold a whole lot, but I don't waste that anyway.

Absolutely get a tip guard that will take a fine finish low pressure tip (FFLP). Putting a gauge on the rig will save wasted finish, and time. Write down the pressure that is best for any particular finish/paint, or get the Titan gauge with the green zone. For a FFLP tip, but the pressure in the green zone, and go to work.

The new, high end guns make a world of difference in handling, but they aren't cheap. Any gun will work with any pump. Graco, and Titan have the same threads.

When Graco came out with a portable Air Assisted Airless rig, I bought one. After the first time using it, I sold my top end Apollo HVLP because I knew I would never use it again. Very soon after they came out with that AAA rig, that they developed the FFLP tips for, they figured out they would work fine with regular airless at less than half the pressure. I bought a new tip guard for my old airless gun, and sold the AAA rig as soon as I could after the first use.

[Jery Madigan]

The advantage of the hopper is that uou don't need to try to suction that last 1.5" of finish in the can. You can overcome some of that when using the suction tube by taking off the metal rock guard and rubber-banding on a 1-gallon paint strainer bag instead. That gets your tube opening right at the bottom of the can.

Tom, try the gold Tritech tips. They use barely more pressure than the FFLP tips and produce a nicer finish. The tips will fit the orange Graco guard that is for RAC V. A new Tritech tip guard is like 30 bucks if you want to match up. 7/8" thread. A 308 tip does almost everything well for interior.

[Tom M King]

Will do. Thanks.

edited to add: I see they have some _06 tips. I'm glad to see that. I'm going to start with a 306.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edWic3-re8A

[Tom M King]

Just ordered a 306. Should be perfect for a current job I'm working on-garage doors. I have a couple of old Rac V tip guards.

I built a hopper once using one of those large plastic jugs for a water dispenser. The pickup went down in the neck. It was too much trouble to keep up with though, since I almost never use something down to the bottom anyway.

[Jery Madigan]

Just ordered a 306. Should be perfect for a current job I'm working on-garage doors. I have a couple of old Rac V tip guards.

I built a hopper once using one of those large plastic jugs for a water dispenser. The pickup went down in the neck. It was too much trouble to keep up with though, since I almost never use something down to the bottom anyway.


Hi Tom,

I probably would use 308 or 310 for that at least. I have shot pretty thick paint with the 306, though.

One thing to watch out for with the 06 tips is that the max mesh gun filter offered by Graco is 100 mesh which passes particles that are about 150 microns or about .0059, so you are right on the edge in terms of clogging the .006 tip opening. Tritech offers a 150 mesh /100 microns/ .0039 filter for use with the 06 tips.

Jerry

[Tom M King]

I have plenty of the two different Graco filters. Are the Tritech filters the same size as the Graco ones? I have 208, and 308 Graco FFLP tips, so I'm sure I can get by with those if the 06 won't work. This job will all be horizontal anyway.

I'll be spraying EM8000, and Totalboat Halcyon.

[Jery Madigan]

I have plenty of the two different Graco filters. Are the Tritech filters the same size as the Graco ones? I have 208, and 308 Graco FFLP tips, so I'm sure I can get by with those if the 06 won't work. This job will all be horizontal anyway.

I'll be spraying EM8000, and Totalboat Halcyon.


The em8000 will be fine. I see that the Totalboat is a clear WB Poy that should go just fine - it is mainly less-than-high-end pigmented coatings that would have some large particles. It is fairly low in solids - probably why many coats are needed. Strain your coatings as best you can. I'm sure you know that you can jsut dunk your gun in a bucket of water between coats.

I did find tds for the Totalboat:

https://www.totalboat.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/totalboat-halcyon-marine-varnish-all-finishes-tds-6.3.21.pdf

I see that you have 45-90 seconds for a wet edge, so it is good that you ar going airless as you move much more quickly - even with the 306 tip.

I would just try it. Changing out tips on the fly is easy. Much quicker than changing hvlp aircaps.

I don't think that the filters are interchangeable. Just be sure to use the yellow Graco filter (100).

[Tom M King]

I'm going to spray the 8000 tomorrow, if they are right with the weather report this time. The 06 tip won't be here yet. I'll spray some test passes on cardboard, and post the pictures. I won't be buying another gun to use the Tritech filter, or at least, don't think so yet. A container stays with the rig to drop the gun in between coats, which is sometimes overnight when spraying walls in houses.

All my equipment has some age on it. My 100 mesh filters are blue. My pump is 30 years old, and the "new" gun maybe 10 now. I do so many different things that it doesn't get used that much. Some years not at all, and other years maybe 3 or 4 times.

Many thanks for your help.

[Wes Billups]

I'm by no means an expert but had the same issue with my first attempt at spraying latex paint. After cleaning up and painting the project with a brush I realized my screen filter (strainer) may have been limiting the amount of fluid making it to the sprayer nozzle. On the next project I made sure to filter the thinned latex paint and then sprayed with zero issues leaving the strainer off my Fuji sprayer.

I have never used a gravity feed gun so it this is what you are using, disregard my comments.

Good luck.

[Michael Fink]

If you want to spray latex unthinned, you're probably going to need a different setup. A pressure pot or an airless (or air assisted airless, if you really want to spend some $$). Latex paint, in general, does not spray well with a conventional air spray gun.

As an alternative, you can look at a different paint product that's ready to spray. I use Emtech pigmented lacquer, no thinning required to go through a 2.0 tip, sprays beautiful and lays down perfectly without any extenders necessary in most situations.

When I need to paint with an "off the shelf" Lowes/HD paint, it's "get out the airless" or a brush/roller. That kind of paint is just not designed for non-pressurized air spray gun. I think a pressure pot would work, I've heard others have success, but I've never tried it myself so can't offer first hand advise.