Slider Ripping

[Lisa Starr]

Being a newer user of the Sliding Table Saw format, I've run into a cut that I'm wondering about. I have a small format slider, and would like to rip some stock longer than my wagon. I realize I could rip this using the fence to the right of the blade like a traditional table saw. Somewhere, I though, I read something about a method of ripping items longer than the wagon, but can't seem to locate it now. Does anyone know what I saw or how to do this?

[Patrick Kane]

Hey Lisa, you would need to make a jig/sled with a runner that fits tightly in the channel of your sliding table. You affix your piece to the table, make the cut to your table's extents, and then push your sled through the cut via the runner. I know ive seen a youtube video of this with a guy using a small hammer 5 combo machine and he was straightlining 12'+ lengths on his saw. Personally, i would rip your material using the rip fence if you have a jointer and can make a straight reference edge. That is just me, the pragmatist that loathes making jigs.

[Malcolm McLeod]

I believe (Dr.?) Mr. Cohen demonstrated a method on SMC using 2 sliding squares (no jig/sled). I also believe he posted photos to go with it.

Hard to describe, but he cut as far as wagon stroke allowed, then registered the outside of the board to the wagon at 2 (marked) places - 1 with each square, moved the board forward (relative to the wagon), re-registered it with the squares (at the marked locations on the board), and continued the cut. ...Best as can recall?

Not sure what to give you for search terms to this old thread.

[Steve Wurster]

I believe (Dr.?) Mr. Cohen demonstrated a method on SMC using 2 sliding squares (no jig/sled). I also believe he posted photos to go with it.

Hard to describe, but he cut as far as wagon stroke allowed, then registered the outside of the board to the wagon at 2 (marked) places - 1 with each square, moved the board forward (relative to the wagon), re-registered it with the squares (at the marked locations on the board), and continued the cut. ...Best as can recall?

Not sure what to give you for search terms to this old thread.

Derek's method is here: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?277868-The-start-of-a-build

[Malcolm McLeod]

Derek's method is here: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?277868-The-start-of-a-build

Thanks. I had some of the details wrong (2 squares vs 1?), or maybe I'm cross-confused with another thread?

[Lisa Starr]

Thank you all. I've located both Derek's discussion of his method and a YouTube video of the sliding jig.

[Erik Loza]

I've never personally used them but we sell these steel T-profile rails for folks to DIY their own overtravel sleds. 3000mm long: https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/shop/edging-shoes-sc123873/edge-trimming-equipment-sp123878

Erik

[Carl Beckett]

Just a comment, if you do rip against the fence in traditional fashion it means taking off your miter. Else you cant feed any longer than if using the sled (front of the board just runs into the miter).

I have done a few where I just rip as far as it will go, then flip the board end to end and rip from the other end to finish it somewhere mid point. If you are careful on what you reference against it can be a decent result. Pretty straightforward in particular if you are ripping sheet good where you have a decent edge as reference.

[Rod Sheridan]

I've never personally used them but we sell these steel T-profile rails for folks to DIY their own overtravel sleds. 3000mm long: https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/shop/edging-shoes-sc123873/edge-trimming-equipment-sp123878

Erik

Hi Erik, those are a composite material, not steel…..Regards, Rod.