Best clamps to buy as a One-man-shop?

[Daniel Bejarano]

Hi everyone,

Perhaps someone here with a bit more experience or years in cabinetmaking than me can offer some advice or ideas about selecting a good brand of clamps to buy

I’ve used pipe clamps and bar clamps for the most part; clamps that are available for everyone to use in a community shop, but they seem to be a little too heavy and aggressive sometimes for delicate stuff. In any case, I wonder how durable the Bessey parallel ones are? I’ve looked on Craigslist and found poor options. eBay seems to have better options but I wonder how good these clamps are (I call them quick action clamps) or how reliable are the sellers that offer them.

The idea is to buy at least 2 pairs of standard sizes

Of course, I also definitely need heavy duty, wide jaw clamps as well. I don’t necessarily build delicate stuff

Thank you for your help and advice

Daniel

[Thomas McCurnin]

I use three types. I have a handfull of regular C Clamps; a wall of Jorgenson "F" Clamps (12-18" about 6-8 for each size), and another wall of Dubuque Clamps, 24-48" about 6 for each size. I also have a bag of a dozen heavy duty pipe clamp heads which are attached to a bunch of 3/4" black pipe. Don't use the latter very often, but for some things, they can't be beat.

[Frederick Skelly]

......another wall of Dubuque Clamps, 24-48" about 6 for each size.

I have a wall of clamps of different sizes and types. The Dubuque are my go-to clamps. Tools for Working Wood (in Brooklyn) sells them. LINK (https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-ABAR.XX)

[Michael Rutman]

Bessey parallel clamps are game changing for me. However many I get I never have enough. I find 4-24 inch Bessey’s to be always in use for my projects.

There are some YouTube videos on how to work without clamps you might want to check out. A lot of times people use clamps for convenience when other techniques, like a wedge, work as well. Once I learned those I stopped being stymied when I was out of clamps. I prefer a good clamp but it’s good to know that there are other ways to get pressure on a glue joint.

[johnny means]

https://www.acmetools.com/bessey-tradesman-bar-clamp-kit-6in-36in-30pc-btb30akit/091162690161.html
I bought two sets of these 20 years ago, minus the racks. I've now got hundreds of clamps and these 60 are still my go to for 95% of my clamping needs.

[Ron Selzer]

Dubuque clamps are my go to clamps 8-24", 6-36", 2-48", 2-60", 2-72"
Will buy more as money comes available
Do have pipe clamps and old I beam clamps, prefer not to use unless have to

[Jim Becker]

'Tis a very subjective thing. I like my parallel clamps. Some folks prefer bar clamps. Some folks prefer pipe clamps. Honestly, what's most important is to have a LOT of clamps. LOL I have a couple dozen at least and yes, I have run out of them and had to grab my "provisional" pipe clamps more than once complete a major assembly.

I think it's good to have a mixture, too. If you rarely do something really large, but from time to time really do need to do a six foot or longer clamping situation, pipe clamps are absolutely the most economical for that. You can even have several lengths of pipe piled in the corner to adapt to the situation when you need something special or unusual. For "me", that's my primary use for pipe clamps while as noted, my normal clamp is a parallel clamp. (Bessey in my case) There are some really nice aluminum bar clamps available these days that I'd consider if I had to add to the herd.

[Richard Coers]

4 clamps is not enough to clamp up a dining table or sofa table. You'll need more than 2 pair of many sizes. I've been woodworking for 49 years, Bessey are my preferred brand now. They will easily last a lifetime if you treat them right.

[Prashun Patel]

I like my besseys. I bought peach tree and wood river cabinet clamps that stunk. The clutch wouldn’t lock in a couple from the set.! I would stick with the besseys.

That said, for panels I highly prefer pipe clamps and a set of shop made cauls. They can be configured to any size, and are way easier to set than cabinet clamps.

[Mike Burke]

I see that Bessey makes different models of parallel clamps. For those of you that use Bessey’s… which model do you prefer?

[Michael Rutman]

I bought a few Bessey clamps to try them out, I use the K clamps all the time. Of the rest, I rarely use them.

The one handed clamps aren’t as convenient as the Dewalt. The Bessey need me to hit the trigger to close the clamp while the Dewalt just seem to do the right thing.

The Angle and Miter clamp always seem to work wrong. I am just using it wrong, but so many other squaring clamps work right I haven’t bothered to figure out what I’m doing wrong.

The spring clamps are too firm for me. If I want that much pressure I’ll use a different clamp, but I have a weak hand grip.

Toggle clamps are great, but I don’t need them very often. Same with the edge clamps.

The one I do like even though I don’t need often is the V shaped one. I use it on my drill press for dowels. it’s nice.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi everyone,

Perhaps someone here with a bit more experience or years in cabinetmaking than me can offer some advice or ideas about selecting a good brand of clamps to buy

I’ve used pipe clamps and bar clamps for the most part; clamps that are available for everyone to use in a community shop, but they seem to be a little too heavy and aggressive sometimes for delicate stuff. In any case, I wonder how durable the Bessey parallel ones are? I’ve looked on Craigslist and found poor options. eBay seems to have better options but I wonder how good these clamps are (I call them quick action clamps) or how reliable are the sellers that offer them.

The idea is to buy at least 2 pairs of standard sizes

Of course, I also definitely need heavy duty, wide jaw clamps as well. I don’t necessarily build delicate stuff

Thank you for your help and advice

Daniel

Hi Daniel

I've been building furniture as a hobbiest for over 30 years. Clamps have come and gone. Pipe and bar clamps are long gone. I just find them clumsy and very heavy. It is difficult manoeuvring them around in my work space (double garage). These are the ones I now have, and I really do not need more (despite that is said about clamps! :)). There are a few others tucked away, but these are the ones that tend to get used...

Bessey 600mm and 800mm K-body ...


https://i.postimg.cc/9fjDNmN1/Clamps1a.jpg


Lightweight Bessey Uniklamps and Jorgenson quick-action, with some Chinese Bessey Uniklamp knockoffs (which are better than Bessey!).

https://i.postimg.cc/TPMP3k6J/Jorgenson-clamps.jpg

F-clamps (300-600mm), Bessey and cheapie one-handed clamps (in 300-450mm) ...

https://i.postimg.cc/nLYCyyyx/Clamps5a.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[mark mcfarlane]

I find the Bessy Revo Jr clamps to be more than adequate for most of my glue ups. I have mostly Bessey K-Body's but bought a few Revos last year and I tend to grab them first as they are much lighter and work just fine for pulling joints together. If you want to pull together crooked boards or squeeze all the glue out of a joint, the K-Body's can put a lot of pressure on a joint, but the Revo's work fine for me to pull a straight joint together.

The Revo's are not available in longer sizes.

Also, you can get a joining plate for K-Body's that allow you to combine two clamps to make a longer clamp. They are on my Christmas list. We are opening presents tomorrow so I don't know...

[Ronnie Hurst]

The idea is to buy at least 2 pairs of standard sizes
I wonder how durable the Bessey parallel ones are?

Daniel

One thing I learned quickly is one can never have too many clamps, lol. I like Bessey, they've held up for me so far.

[Mark Bolton]

When you say one man shop I assume you are a full time one man shop and in that case my input (repeated many times in the archives) is to ditch any parallel clamp pursuit and stick with good quality pipe and F clamps. F clamps for your smaller work, pipe clamps for day to day work.

Parallels are most always not parallel, they are insanely expensive, they are NOT light, often times cumbersome to use, fussy with regards to glue on the beams, and the worst of the worst they are grossly underpowered.

You can setup 2.5-3 quality pipe clamps for the cost of a single parallel and the main theme that runs through all these threads is more clamps which means you can have 10 crappy underpowered parallel clamps that you have to treat with kid gloves and pamper, clean, protect, or you can have 25 pipe clamps and get some profitable work done. F clamps are what they are and a rack like Johnny posted is a wise investment.

[mark mcfarlane]

...

Parallels are ... fussy with regards to glue on the beams

...



Yep, I still haven't found a good quick way to get old glue off the beams of my Revos. A handheld wire brush doesn't cut the glue.

+10

[Jim Becker]

Yep, I still haven't found a good quick way to get old glue off the beams of my Revos. A handheld wire brush doesn't cut the glue.

+10

Acetone. :)

[mark mcfarlane]

Acetone. :)

Brush it on? Soak a rag and put over glue?

[Jim Becker]

Brush it on? Soak a rag and put over glue?

Put it on generously as it will help loosen the glue drips, making it far easier to scrape away. Type I and Type II are obviously the easiest. Type III takes more work. Best practice for the future (regardless of clamp type) is to use clear packing tape to protect the clamps from glue drips, of course. It also prevents any marking of the wood by the metal clamps, too.

[Mark Bolton]

Yep, I still haven't found a good quick way to get old glue off the beams of my Revos. A handheld wire brush doesn't cut the glue.

+10

This will be a typical snydley comment but the very best and most absolute way I have found to avoid the glue buildup on parallels, it takes a bit of time, and a lot of elbow grease, some very harsh solvents that are also flammable and can absorb through your skin.. is to just not buy them in the first place. :p

[Edwin Santos]

Yep, I still haven't found a good quick way to get old glue off the beams of my Revos. A handheld wire brush doesn't cut the glue.

+10

Do you have a heat gun? If so, try heat followed by the wire brush.

[Mark Bolton]

Do you have a heat gun? If so, try heat followed by the wire brush.

Or how bout you just slide the static jaw up and down the pipe quickly all the glue boogers pop right off and your back to making money in 1.83 seconds? Oh wait, thats a pipe clamp not a parallel :D

[Frederick Skelly]

Yep, I still haven't found a good quick way to get old glue off the beams of my Revos. A handheld wire brush doesn't cut the glue.

+10

After you get them cleaned up, wax the bars with Johnson's Paste Wax. After.

[johnny means]

I try to always mask of areas where glue may drip. I also religiously wipe glue off of my clamps before it dries. The only thing I've ever found that softens up TBIII is vinegar. Regular glue will soften with water.

[mark mcfarlane]

Thanks for the cleaning tips. The heat gun was too slow for me on 10 year old dried glue. The Acetone seemed to help, followed by a wire wheel/drill and medium pressure. I possibly (or not) took down some of the ridges using a wire wheel but my clamps are clean enough and work better.

A wire wheel is probably not a good idea for weekly cleanings but I figure using it once every 10 years after retirement won't matter much (to me at least).

Back to the OP: still liking my Bessey Revos. And they didn't need to be cleaned, they only have a dozen projects worth of glue on them.

For the record, I do wipe squeezed out glue as best I can before it dries but there is always a partial drop I can't get to if the wood is tight against the clamp, which seems to work best for me.

...Maybe I could use the standoffs that come with the clamps under glue joints. Or tape. I am much better nowadays at planning glue ups, dry fitting,... yet still I always forget the anti-glue-drip tape.

[Jim Becker]

Mark, use a brass version of the wire wheel...it will not really damage the harder steel but will be abrasive to the glue. (Make sure you are wearing eye protection when using those things, too!)

[derek labian]

+1 to the KBody when what I'm gluing matters. For quick holds I use quick release bar clamps. For holding jigs, drill press table, etc. I use F-Style clamp. I have some pipe clamps and 3/4 pipe, but I don't ever use them.

+1 to many different sizes. Thats where the cost really comes in; you can get away with fewer sizes with light aluminum quick release bar clamps, but if you get into heavier steel clamps, the size will make a real difference.

I don't hear anyone talking about band clamps, or spring clamps, but I get a decent amount of use. Since your cabinet making, corner clamps might be a nice additional as well.


470489470490


I get an inordinate amount of use out of these little 5" bar clamps. Its amazing how much I use them for misc things.

470491

[Matthew Hills]

For my hobby work, I use bessey k-body for panel glue-ups; I added some dubuque bar clamps when I wanted some long clamps for assembly work that would be lighter than the k-bodies. I really like the dubuque. The besseys do require protection from glue drips. Both benefit from pads on the clamps to prevent marring the workpieces.

If I was doing commercial work that required frequent panel glue-ups, I'd be taking a hard look at used glue presses.

Matt

[mike stenson]

I have representatives of all of these styles. What I use, depends on what I am doing. So I don't think there's an individual best. I do laugh at the glue problem though (actually the associated drama), since I mostly use hide glue and it cleans easily with water. Or, you could just wax the rails.

[mark mcfarlane]

Mark, use a brass version of the wire wheel...it will not really damage the harder steel but will be abrasive to the glue. (Make sure you are wearing eye protection when using those things, too!)

Thanks Jim, just put a set in my Amazon cart.

[Mark Bolton]

I have representatives of all of these styles. What I use, depends on what I am doing. So I don't think there's an individual best. I do laugh at the glue problem though (actually the associated drama), since I mostly use hide glue and it cleans easily with water. Or, you could just wax the rails.

Waxing anything as it pertains to glue only helps a bit. When the beams are nice and new/shinny/plated it will help especially if you leave the wax on heavy especially in the teeth of the bar. Its an additional step. As is the subsequent removal/snapping off/picking glue out of the teeth. Forget about after they've been used a bit, wire wheeled, abraded, the wax unless left extremely thick does less and less.Having to setup a set of clamps, setting the jaw opening for the width, protecting the beams whether its tape/wax/whatever, is all added work and the gain, other than having these clamps that became some type of a standard due to NYW is pretty difficult to measure in practice.

Hide glue is wonderful for those who use it but its an utterly impractical consideration for the vast majority who are clamping up work. Just aint gonna happen.

[mike stenson]

See, I don't get that. Using liquid is exactly like using pva, and almost as strong, but with the advantages of hide glue. But, like everything else, everyone has a preference.

[Joe Calhoon]

I’ve had good luck using Bates glue release on clamps. It has to be applied on a regular basis and I’m not good about that. For clamps I have a assortment, my favorite being I beam bar clamps. My Jorgensens are wore out and in bad shape after 40 years of use. I’ve been replacing them with Bessie I beams. Their ok but the clutch hard to release. I have a lot of F clamps and like the newer Bessie with the rubber on the handle. Slowly putting tennis wrap on the older ones. Pipe clamps for 8 and 10 footers that don’t get used often. The Bessie K body clamps are my least favorite. I had some of the original and they were terrible. The new ones are better but still not my favorite. Just bought a couple Dubuque but have not tried them yet. They seem good for a light pattern clamp.the Spanish made F clamps are good for high torque. Phiper or something like that.
470502
470503

[Mark Bolton]

my favorite being I beam bar clamps. My Jorgensens are wore out and in bad shape after 40 years of use. I’ve been replacing them with Bessie I beams. Their ok but the clutch hard to release.


Read no further people. Read no.. further. Clamp rack says it all

[Mark Bolton]

470503

Do you run two different glues in the pizzi on the cart in the background? Or just two pots for speed?

[Joe Calhoon]

Mark,
just one type of glue, TB3. The other pot had rusted out due to lack of maintenance. Just sitting on the cart in this picture. One man shop now and don’t go through a lot of glue unless building doors or windows.
is Jorgensen back in business? I just saw their website. Maybe I can get parts for my old clamps.

[Curt Harms]

Yep, I still haven't found a good quick way to get old glue off the beams of my Revos. A handheld wire brush doesn't cut the glue.

+10

I usually do a dry run for any significant clamping assemblies. A few strips of masking tape under where the glue joints will fall keeps the bar clean.

[Jim Becker]

I usually do a dry run for any significant clamping assemblies. A few strips of masking tape under where the glue joints will fall keeps the bar clean.

Masking tape will work, but clear packing tape has the advantage that most glues will not stick to it, so it also doesn't get adhered to the workpiece like masking tape sometimes can from glue.

[Kevin Jenness]

Pony pipe clamps for extra long reach. I beam bar clamps (Jorgensen) for heavy work and assembling work that needs a long screw travel (large doors). Aluminum bar clamps (Jorgensen and Dubuque) for panel work. F clamps for miscellaneous work. Spring clamps for light stuff. Gros Stabil Kantenfix for edgebanding curves and ends of long panels. Collins clamps for miters. Hand screws for oddball stuff like tapers, rounds and clamping upright doors to the bench for lock work. Band clamps when all else fails.

Did I mention this all adds up? Buy good quality as needed in quantities sufficient for a discount.

I despise pipe clamps, but they are necessary at times. The Jorgensen 56 f-clamp pipe fittings can be useful https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/pony-jorgensen-56-deep-reach-pipe-clamp-with-wing-nut-handle.html. The K clamps seem heavy and expensive but some folks like them.

I have dozens of Jorgensen f-clamps. I bought some new ones a few years ago and they are very difficult to adjust the head along the beam. The clutch plates wear over a long period and can be reversed to renew the grip. Replacements don't seem to be available. I would buy Bessey w/o clutch style now (though the new deep Jorgensen f-clamps are clutchless and probably fine).

Sometimes you really need those heavy monsters to put the squeeze on but most of the time with well-fitted joints light duty clamps work just fine and are easier on the back.

To get the glue blobs off whack and scrape them with your hive tool, then wax the bars and while you are at it give the screws a drop of oil.

[Mark Bolton]

Mark,
just one type of glue, TB3. The other pot had rusted out due to lack of maintenance. Just sitting on the cart in this picture. One man shop now and don’t go through a lot of glue unless building doors or windows.
is Jorgensen back in business? I just saw their website. Maybe I can get parts for my old clamps.

They are back though Im not sure of all the details. Yost had been running pretty close knock-offs shortly after they went down so I had assumed they bought the place out and were re-man under their brand but jorgensens online and pdf catalog has the full line as it was. Other than Lowes their retailer listing looks like they may be smart in sticking with a bit more industrial distribution. HD had them prior to them closing and now its lowes but Wurth, WW express is on there. They were by far the best in my book especially the Ibars.

[Curt Harms]

Mark,
just one type of glue, TB3. The other pot had rusted out due to lack of maintenance. Just sitting on the cart in this picture. One man shop now and don’t go through a lot of glue unless building doors or windows.
is Jorgensen back in business? I just saw their website. Maybe I can get parts for my old clamps.

A Chinese company, Greatstar Industrial bought the assets. I'd be pleasantly surprised if parts were available though it wouldn't hurt to ask. The blurb in Woodworker's Journal does say that some existing products will continue to be available. Greatstar also owns Goldblatt, Millers Falls and Arrow fasteners.

https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/greatstar-industrial-acquires-adjustable-clamp-company/

[Joe Calhoon]

Thanks for the info Curt and Mark. I will look into this. If nothing else I may be able to rob parts off some of the more damaged clamps and end up with a few good ones. As I understand it the Bessie I beams are made in China but seem to be OK other than the clutch release on the opposite side. As a side note one of the best bar clamps ever made was the Hargrave. They come up occasionally at auctions and estate sales.

[Michael Schuch]

I can't believe nobody mentioned hand screws. They are probably my most used clamps. I have well over a dozen of them in all different sizes. I often use hadscrews as a bench top vise to hold small pieces while Iwork on them.

The Dubuque clamps look really nice. I use the cheap Harbor Freight aluminum clamps that look simular and they always do the job for me. I have about a dozen of them, There is no way I would be able to afford that many of the Dubuque clamps. They are really nice due to there light weight. A lot of HF clamps are awful and don't do their job but I have always had excellent luck with the aluminum bar clamps.

3/4" pipe clamps are my goto's for heavy clamping. I like galvanized pipes myself.

I have 4 Bessy parallel clamps and they are really nice. I don't find I use them as much as I thought I would for all the accolades they seem to get.

The C clamps and other welding clamps often migrate from the metal working side of the shop to the woodworking side of the shop when needed.

I use Johnson's paste wax on the threaded parts of all my clamps to keep them moving smooth and repel glue.

[Kevin Jenness]

Hand screws are handy indeed. I most often use one clamped to the bench to hold a door upright for lock work. Also good for tapered work.

Another overlooked style is ViseGrip clamps, especially useful for repeated clamping at the same setting. I have a couple pair of deep throat models, not super strong but they do allow for putting pressure well in from the edge of a panel, like clamping a veneer blister, at an affordable price.

Press screws can be incorporated in fixtures readily. I have made several slider clamps with laminated plywood armatures, tee nuts and wooden tee slot runners.

We had half a dozen cheap aluminum jorgy bar clamp knockoffs from Lee Valley. Half of the head castings broke under clamping pressure. Good for Harbor Fright, but I would sooner pony up on a long term investment like clamps than take a chance on cheap ones. I see that Jorgensen is again offering them so Dubuque is not the only other game in town.

[Michael Schuch]

Turning the two screws on a hand screw in opposite directions puts a lot of clamping force right up at the nose of the hand screw. Turning the two screw in the same direction on a hand screw gives you two parallel blocks perfect for keeping two pieces lined up while screwing or glueing.

I use my vice grip type welding clamps on wood a lot too. They are very handy. (Manly the ones with the swivel pads on the ends.)

The vice grip like Kreg pocket hole clamp is excellent for keeping two pieces tight together and lined up while putting in the pocket holes screws. I use mine a good bit.