Some Sawstop Questions

[fred everett]

My old Jet 1.5 hp is dead and parts are obsolete...I have to make a move. Budget is $3500..maybe $4000, but that's pushing it. I've researched a TON and seems all roads lead to a SS. I'm 99% sure I'm going for PCS 1.75 hp with 36" side. I'm coming off a 1.5hp.....I'd be gaining .25 hp (prob a wash) but 1.5 has been fine for 25 yrs. Also, the TS has it's own 20 circuit which according to SS's tech support has tested out sufficient for their 1.75hp

I have a few questions but to give an idea what I do etc: I typically build smaller furniture and rarely do sheet goods. I have an outfeed w/ integrated downdraft a floating overarm dc, and a CC sled...all shop made and excellent so I'm hoping to use them all on the new saw. Also, I have a decent ShopFox mobile base....I have room but I will on occasion move the saw a few inches. I don't need a side router table. I don't see where I need the sliding cross-cut table accessary but I'm not sure on that.

To the SS owners, any gotchas and/or thoughts? Any accessories you wish you have added from jump? Other thoughts?

I should add, I'm good with regard to info on the false activations....I won't beat that dead horse lol.

[mreza Salav]

I have the ICS for about 12 years now with 3HP (original version). Great saw all around and from what I have heard the PCS is equally good. You may have to rebuild some of your jigs (e.g. cc sled as miter slots might not match) but that's not a big deal. I have the saw on a non-SS mobile base. I rarely need to move the saw (maybe done it twice in 10 years) and it's Ok. I know you said you want to get the 1.75HP but the only single change I would seriously (seriously) consider is stepping up to 3HP. I had a 1.5HP before. I think you will be glad you did that. Enjoy your saw regardless.

[Jim Becker]

I don't see any issues with your plan, Fred. Even a 1.75hp table saw has a lot of power in general and for those few times that you have a more difficult task, going slow with the correct blade format will get the job done. But that would be rare for most woodworkers. If you were using a LOT of thick, heavy stock all the time, then it would be a different conversation.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

As a spoiled 5 hp ICS owner I would say to push your finances beyond the limit and get the 3hp. The extra hp is always nice to have. It will probably be safe to assume that you will not say darn, I wish I would have gone for less hp. I don't think you'll outgrow more hp. The saw can expand your limits. You can cut thick stock without problems.

It's a good saw no matter which motor is in it....

[Ron Selzer]

I have the ICS 5hp, 36 fence, SS mobile base
Buy all the hp you can, the mobile base is great IF you move the saw a lot like I do
I don't care for the over arm dust collection, does better if it is piped on its own, not to the tee that comes with it. Have plugged it up too many times ripping with it
It is a great saw for its intended market
Ron

[Prashun Patel]

I prefer 220v and 3hp, but if you made it 25 years with 1.5 I doubt you’ll need more.

Get an extra brake.

[John Goodin]

Having a dedicated 120 volt outlet is a big plus if you want to upgrade to a 3HP saw. It should be very easy to convert a dedicated 20 amp 120 volt outlet to a 240 outlet. If you have one extra slot in your panel all you need is a new breaker and an outlet with the correct plug configuration. With the power off the neutral is disconnected from the bus bar and secured under the second lug as a hot. The new hot should be marked with a band of electrical tape to designate it as such.

I went from a 1.5HP to a 3HP and have enjoyed the difference, particularly the ability to use full-kerf blades with no issues whatsoever.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I initially bought the 1.75 PCS 110V, used it for 3 years and then did the 220v 3Hp upgrade ($600). I wouldn't go back.

I love this saw. I initially had to move it on a daily basis, as it used the same bay as my wife's car. The Industrial base makes this super simple and easy. I did get the freebie overarm dust collector, the 1/25" one, used that a little, but as soon as I made my first crosscut sled, that dust arm go ditched.

While my saw was mobile, I made a fold down out feed table.

Now where I live, my saw is pretty much in a permanent position and I have build a detachable outfeed and a left side tool storage and support table.

I swapped out the fence for an Incra LS-TS system and put a router in the right end, although that doesn't get used too much.

I use Forrest WWII combo and rip blades and did swap out the insert for the Infinity ZCI Inserts.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zv797hVFW88

[Bryan Lisowski]

Unless you don’t have the ability to run at 220, for $500 more I would go with more HP. Plus I think the resale would be better if you had to sell in a few years.

[Rod Wolfy]

I lost my earlier post.

I got the 3 hp PCS 36" 4 years ago. I would do it again tomorrow if I needed to. I had a Jet 52" and it was too big. I would not consider the 1.75, as the times I'm cutting 8/4 it cuts without slowing down (but it did burn 8/4 Wenge, as I didn't push fast enough). The saw will outlast me. I use a track saw for sheet goods. I won't go back to trying to cut a 4x8 on a table saw.

I got a dado brake, a regular brake and the mobile base when I bought the saw. I disliked the PCS mobile base, as it goes side to side.

I bought the Industrial mobile base (cry twice), and it's perfect. I can lift the saw an inch and pull it straight towards me by 2" or turn it in place a quarter turn (open the garage door behind me to rip an 8' board), then turn it back a minute later. I have not set off the brake.

I have a friend that took off the first 1.5" of his index finger a couple of years ago on his table saw, when he turned to look at what the dog was barking at. I gave him an end grained cutting board for Christmas. Walnut, cherry & maple.

[Frank Pratt]

I lost my earlier post.

I got the 3 hp PCS 36" 4 years ago. I would do it again tomorrow if I needed to. I had a Jet 52" and it was too big. I would not consider the 1.75, as the times I'm cutting 8/4 it cuts without slowing down (but it did burn 8/4 Wenge, as I didn't push fast enough). The saw will outlast me. I use a track saw for sheet goods. I won't go back to trying to cut a 4x8 on a table saw.

I got a dado brake, a regular brake and the mobile base when I bought the saw. I disliked the PCS mobile base, as it goes side to side.

I bought the Industrial mobile base (cry twice), and it's perfect. I can lift the saw an inch and pull it straight towards me by 2" or turn it in place a quarter turn (open the garage door behind me to rip an 8' board), then turn it back a minute later.

This nearly duplicates my experience. That 52" fence was a huge space suck. In the 15 years I had it, I only used the capacity a few times. Using a track saw or just a circ saw & guide are a much better option for breaking down large sheet goods.

I might only need the extra power once a month, but when you need it, it's very nice to have.

[mike stenson]

I have both the 50" and 30" fence rails for my unifence. I do mostly use hand tools, but to be honest I agree. I have the 50" mounted on a wall. I can see the wider fence being useful in some production applications, but I really can't say I've needed to use the full with ever. Including when I had a 52" biesemeyer.

[Jim Dwight]

I have the saw you are looking at, PCS with 36 inch fence and 1.75 hp motor. I am very happy with it. No desire for a bigger motor. I also used saws with 110V motors prior to getting the SawStop for over 40 years. I have to use thin kerf blades sometimes including a thin kerf ripping blade but I cut hardwood up to 3 inches thick when I need to. With the right blade that is clean and reasonably sharp it cuts thick wood well - normal feed rate. If the wood pinches the blade, however, that is another way the saw may struggle. The only unusual thing I found is my SS seems to have a thermal overload that is set pretty low. It tripping was a big clue I needed to do something different when I was ripping some glued up softwood 3 inches thick for a bunk bed for my grandkids. The wood was pinching the blade. A switch in blades got the project done. I bought the thinner riving knife, I think it is 2mm thick, to use with thin kerf blades. I think it was only $25 - a pleasant surprise. Sawstop has it with the parts, not the accessories, if you look online.

I make more big projects than little but I use my track saw to make cuts on bigger pieces of wood. It is not my table saw that limits it's use, it's my small shop.

I made my own mobile base partially because I wanted it higher. I'm 6'2" and I think it comes 30 inches high. That is TERRIBLY low for me. A real back ache. I have it at 38 inches high and find that to be good for me. If you have outfeed you want to use, I would check heights before committing to a mobile base for the PCS. Raising the PCS may be necessary but that is a lot easier than lowering it.

It's a good quality saw. I also bought a colliflower throat plate. The inserts are really flimsy but it works well. Dust collection is good, the blade is shrouded so it is not hard to collect.

[Justin Rapp]

I have a SS PCS 3hp with 36" rails and just upgraded from a 1.5hp JET contractor saw.

Using your shop made outfeed table would be find, just bare in mind the miter slots are at a different width so if your outfeed top has miter slots, they will be in the wrong place.

If you can go for the 3hp, it's worth every penny if you cut thick stock. If all you cut is 4/4 and thinner 1.75 should fit the bill.

Your existing base might or might not fit the saw, you would have to check dimensions and ensure that it can support the weight of the saw vs your old jet.

The biggest upgrade to do now would be 3hp if you want, the ICS base, so you can put it on before adding more weight to the saw, and of course the 36" fence. Other times, like their outfeed table, extra brakes or a dado brake you can get later if needed.

[Aaron Rosenthal]

I bought the 3 hp 220v PCS this summer and for the extra few dollars it’s a bargain.
Your choice on the horsepower, but I have lots of 220 circuits and fewer 120, so that was easy. I also got the grizzly 4 post bear stand instead of the ICS because, come on, how often will I need to move it-again my choice.
Here’s why I got it instead of a laguna or powermatic.
The technology to save my body parts.
My dealer is 5 km away from me.
It’s powerful; I was using a Rigid granite top with a rated output of 1.5 hp, but I was always unsure about it’s ability to cut oak, what I have a lot of around here.
My wife agreed with the purchase.
And I agree that the dust collection system is better than I had but not nearly as good as it could be.
The bottom line, is that I get the same thrill of the unleashed power as when I use my corded Milwaukee circ. saw. Both to me, are stunning machines.

[Anuj Prateek]

To the SS owners, any gotchas and/or thoughts? Any accessories you wish you have added from jump? Other thoughts?

I bought PCS 3HP 36" 220v few months back. Some thoughts:

- If you have 220 buy 3HP. I am still using the combination blade that came with saw. I ripped few 8/4 maples boards this week. Worked wonderfully.

- Buy ICS base instead of PCS base. Inhad to move the saw bunch of time to configure the shop. ICS base makes it a breeze.

- I did not buy the overarm dust collection accessory. If I had extra cash I would have bought one. I have hose hanging from roof instead.

- I am yet to rip anything beyond 2'. If you don't cut sheet good, maybe a 30" model will do. There is some difference in the fence (on 30" model) so check that though.

- the wooden part of the table (somehow I can't remember it's name right now), in black color, on right hand side is flimsy at best. On my saw it's far away from flat. I will replace it some day.

- if you don't already have it, get incra miter gauge. One that came with saw is good but not as good.

- one accessory that I will buy in next few months - either a digital gauge or woodpecker rip flip fence system.

[George Yetka]

I have 3HP 52"pcs, came with small overarm collector and mobile base free when I got it. I am 5 years in and not trips(knocks on wood)
I upgraded the overarm, I felt it could be better. The problem I have is I dont do as much sheet goods as I do hardwood so the overarm is always in the way. The small one would have been sufficient to keep for my uses.
I also should have gone 36" with router wing. Instead of buying a seperate table.
I also built a 2" platform and put the saw on it so the mobile base is useless but this allowed me to use my grandfathers workbench as outfeed.

[Christopher Charles]

I picked up a 1.75 hp this summer second hand, basically unused for a good enough price that I was planning to upgrade to the 3 hp and still be well ahead. The upgrade requires the motor a new controller and a gas shock, total is about $650 with shipping now. I have the electric setup. And I still haven’t done the upgrade, the 1.75 does fine. I did bog it once though that was on me (blade mismatched to 6/4 stock). If you have been good in the past, you’ll be fine with the 1.75 and the upgrade can be done later if you need it. If you can upgrade your power easily, might be worth doing now but you’ll have a hard time staying in budget with shipping and tax, etc. If you have overhead dust already I would not get the ss dust guard. You’ll want a thin kerf riving knife.

overall, quite a nice saw, I’m happy with mine.

[Michael Rutman]

I was in the same situation as you but had the budget for the 3hp so I splurged. I noticed something was better but couldn’t put my finger on it for months. Finally realized the 3hp has never burnt a piece of wood on me. It was rare, but the 1.75 would occasionally stress a little, stall, and I’d have burn marks. Then I analyzed it and realized I no longer had to baby my wood through, it was just one less thing to have to consider. The less things I need to keep in mind the less mistakes I make.

As for the rest, the outfeed table is a must have for me. Folds down 99% of the time, quick to flip up for the rare times I need it.

Did not get the router attachment and kind of regret it kind of don’t. I think in the end I don’t because I keep my router table set up for an entire project and would hate having to deal with changing it each time I go back to the table saw.

As far as table size, I got the big one and don’t “regret” it but I use it so rarely I question the need. At this point I break down long boards with my miter saw anyway. I’m about to get a track saw, so I doubt I’ll ever really need the extra size. I’d say it’s still good to have, but it honestly has become storage for the parts I don’t use as that side of the table saw is rarely used.

[fred everett]

Thanks for all the replies and excellent info. Woodcraft has a PCS 3 and 1.75 hp in stock so I'm going to look at both next week.


I was a rookie when I built my shop….only pulled two 20 amp circuits. It's a nightmare pulling wire down there so the lazy a$$ in me keeps thinking 'the old 1.5 Jet worked fine for decades.’ I could convert the circuit, but it’s the only circuit on that side and my jointer, DP and planer share it. I don’t see any way around pulling wire…..unless I’m missing something.

I own an Incra Miter Gauge and a Woodpeckers Table Saw Gauge so I hope to be squared up quickly.

The 30" tables brings the stock fence where the 36" brings the T-Glide at. I’ve no experience with either, but T-Glide seems a no-brainer at a $180 up.


My DIY overarm is a well refined infinitely adjustable spring arm boom piped into main DC. I get near zero air born dust with 3/4 MDF according to my Dylos Pro.


My shop-made outfeed legs adjust approx 6" and if needed can be cut. Someone said the miter slots won't line up which is something I hadn't considered….I see some plunge cuts in my future.


Unfortunately I found a flat spot on one of the wheels on my Shop-Fox mobile base. It seems you guys like the ICS base so I'll likely go that route at a $415 up.


Amazing underside cabinet/fold down by Chris….very nice indeed.


I notice nobody commented on the toothpick side table legs. Are those solid?

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I notice nobody commented on the toothpick side table legs. Are those solid?

You mean the wing "legs"? I never even thought of them as a "toothpick" sized but you are correct. No, have not had any issues, other than they could drag on the ground as you move the saw and self adjust.... I have a 52" saw and have no complaints.
Yes the 52" is a space hog, but I did plunge cut a router plate in there so I don't need a router table taking us space. I have the T-Glide (good fence) and adjusted it to be 90 degrees, so I use the stock fence with the router. I build a sacrificial clamp on fence to route against. The wing is made of particle board, so I reinforced it and put some hardwood in there so the router won't sag the wing. So far, so good.

[Bill Sutherland]

Best thing I ever did for my PCS was add the Incra TS LS.

[fred everett]

You mean the wing "legs"? I never even thought of them as a "toothpick" sized but you are correct. No, have not had any issues, other than they could drag on the ground as you move the saw and self adjust.... I have a 52" saw and have no complaints.
Yes the 52" is a space hog, but I did plunge cut a router plate in there so I don't need a router table taking us space. I have the T-Glide (good fence) and adjusted it to be 90 degrees, so I use the stock fence with the router. I build a sacrificial clamp on fence to route against. The wing is made of particle board, so I reinforced it and put some hardwood in there so the router won't sag the wing. So far, so good.

Good to hear the legs are solid....they look kind of thin/undersized on their website.

[Jim Becker]

Fred, the two legs on the right side table don't really have to support all that much weight directly. I don't even use them and I have a cast iron router top on that end. They are more about not having long term sagging, etc., particularly with a composite table.

[Frank Pratt]

Firstly, in spite of how much I like having 3HP, if budget is a concern, 1.75HP will certainly get the job done.

Adding to the benefits of the ICS base is that it has a deeper footprint than the PCS base. The benefit being that if you have an outfeed table that supported by the saw only, it is much more stable. I have a 32" (or there abouts) outfeed & I can put my full weight on the end & not come close to lifting the saw.

[Rod Wolfy]

Ok, I'll weigh in again.

Go to the effort of pulling wire. While your at it, pull an extra one. I actually paid an Electrician to put one 125' around my house and a 60 amp panel in my 2 car garage. Then I pulled 4 or 5 wires. I have a ceiling mounted 12/3 corded reel on a 20 amp leg that I pulled. When I was crawling above the ceiling, I ran a 10/2 for a drop to my SS on a 220v 20amp, too.

Get the bigger motor now (cry once & you won't have to monkey with trying to put a motor correctly down the road. If you've been at this for more than 10 years, you know how it goes!)

The ICS base has one issue for me, in that it sticks out behind the saw by about 4". When my workbench was used as an outfeed table, there was a gap between the back of the saw and the table. I made a new workbench table base and it's about 1" off the back & 1" below now (and 12" of Beech wider, too).

When you pump up the ICS base, the legs on the right just get lifted off the floor by 1/2" to 1" and that's why you can turn the saw a quarter turn, if needed.

Your right about the 30" vs 36" fence. Definitely go with the 36".

IMO, it's about the money, get the 36" fence & the 3 hp motor and hold off a few months for the mobile base.

[Bryan Hall]

My old Jet 1.5 hp is dead and parts are obsolete...I have to make a move. Budget is $3500..maybe $4000, but that's pushing it. I've researched a TON and seems all roads lead to a SS. I'm 99% sure I'm going for PCS 1.75 hp with 36" side. I'm coming off a 1.5hp.....I'd be gaining .25 hp (prob a wash) but 1.5 has been fine for 25 yrs. Also, the TS has it's own 20 circuit which according to SS's tech support has tested out sufficient for their 1.75hp

I have a few questions but to give an idea what I do etc: I typically build smaller furniture and rarely do sheet goods. I have an outfeed w/ integrated downdraft a floating overarm dc, and a CC sled...all shop made and excellent so I'm hoping to use them all on the new saw. Also, I have a decent ShopFox mobile base....I have room but I will on occasion move the saw a few inches. I don't need a side router table. I don't see where I need the sliding cross-cut table accessary but I'm not sure on that.

To the SS owners, any gotchas and/or thoughts? Any accessories you wish you have added from jump? Other thoughts?

I should add, I'm good with regard to info on the false activations....I won't beat that dead horse lol.

I ended up with a 52" 5hp ICS largely because it was what was available to me on short notice. I added the woodpeckers rip-flip fence stop system and couldn't imagine having a 36" fence, PCS sized table, or ditching the fence stop system.

I also sent you a PM, but am unsure if it went through? Let me know if you got it.

[Jeremy Thornton]

Made this exact decision in June. I bought the PCS 36 inch and the industrial mobile base. I added on the dado brake cartridge. Before you even turn the saw on, you realize that you made the right decision: the setup is so easy....by far the best instructions I've ever seen. It's my first table saw but can't imagine that it gets much better.

[Geoff Barry]

I recently got a 3hp pcs 36". I got the dado caetridge and zero clearance insert at the same time, as well as the route wing (and 7" cast iron "spacer"). One thing to consider - I got a grizzly bearcrawl 4-swivel base instead of the PCS or ICS bases. Why? It's $115 . . . . (I also got the extension and place it under the router wing legs - I have limited space, so mobility is a plus). Also, the saw blade that ships with it is . . . meh. It allows them to say it comes with a blade. You'll want a better blade.

[Scott Bernstein]

You'll be happy with whatever version of the sawstop you purchase. I have mine in my garage hobby workshop. When I bought mine I was upgrading from a tiny benchtop "screamer" table saw (which was terrible). So the sawstop was a huge upgrade, especially since I had never used a cabinet saw before. At the time I had no 220V outlets in my garage, so I purchased the 1.75hp PCS with 36" rip capacity, industrial mobile base, and the "good" fence. I was very happy with the way it cut; however even with thin-kerf rip blades it would tend to burn and even stall out, tripping the dedicated-breaker, when cutting 8/4 hardwood (such as hickory), if I tried to move the wood through too fast. But if you go slowly, with a little patience, the 1.75hp will do everything you need. Pieces < 8/4 it generally had no problem with. About 2 years in I purchased a bandsaw which required 220V and that was the incentive I needed to bring in an electrician and install some 220V outlets in the garage. I then purchased the 3hp motor from sawstop and installed the new motor and starter switch myself. I really like having the extra power - it makes a big difference especially with the thicker pieces. And I really see the difference cutting dados with the dado stack as well. I have also upgraded the the dust collection to the large overarm dust collector hood and added the folding outfeed table. I have a separate cast iron router table, and I think I do like this better than having the router table wing on the SawSTop. Most recently, I added the Woodpecker's table saw flip stop system, which has really been a nice addition. If I was purchasing again, knowing what I know now from my experience with the saw, I'd purchase the industrial model with 5hp motor - mostly for the greater cross cut capacity. But obviously budget and space issues may dictate otherwise... And even though it is possible to do the upgrade from 1.75 to 3hp, it is certainly cheaper to just buy the 3hp version from the start. Also, if you have 1.75hp version it can be hooked up 120 or 220. I wonder if perhaps it might be less likely to stall out running on 220, or at least be less likely to trip the breaker. Good luck!

[Scott Bernstein]

...also a good dust collector is important. I have a Clearvue DC and I have one 4" port on the back of the tablesaw and a second 4" port on the floating overarm dust hood - this combination really helps a lot with the dust. A world of difference compared to when I started...all I had was a Rigid Shop vac.

[Robert Engel]

1. I downsized to a 36" extension fence from 52" and so far have never missed it.

2. I built a storage cabinet to sit under it, so I didn't use the legs.

3. You may have to go through your blades, if you want to follow what SS says about depth limiting shoulders. Also, I have several blades which I can't adjust the brake within tolerance, possibly b/c they've been sharpened multiple times? I'm using them anyway, my thinking is its a few milliseconds delay.

Same with dado. DLS's and solid body wings are not recommended by SS.

On an interesting side note, I communicated with Infinity tools about my Dadonator, which violates both of SS's parameters on dado sets. I suggested they might put a note in the item description "not compatible with SawStop", but the answer I got back was "we have been using the Dadonator in our SawStop for years with no issues".

I asked if they ever had a brake trip but never got a reply.

[Michael Sapper]

"Unless you don’t have the ability to run at 220, for $500 more I would go with more HP"

Could not agree more!

[Justin Rapp]

1. I downsized to a 36" extension fence from 52" and so far have never missed it.

2. I built a storage cabinet to sit under it, so I didn't use the legs.

3. You may have to go through your blades, if you want to follow what SS says about depth limiting shoulders. Also, I have several blades which I can't adjust the brake within tolerance, possibly b/c they've been sharpened multiple times? I'm using them anyway, my thinking is its a few milliseconds delay.

Same with dado. DLS's and solid body wings are not recommended by SS.

On an interesting side note, I communicated with Infinity tools about my Dadonator, which violates both of SS's parameters on dado sets. I suggested they might put a note in the item description "not compatible with SawStop", but the answer I got back was "we have been using the Dadonator in our SawStop for years with no issues".

I asked if they ever had a brake trip but never got a reply.

Sawstop won't turn on if the break is too far from the blade, it should give you a 'no blade' error. One of my Forrest blades is pretty much in that state. The teeth are almost gone, but Forrest sent it back to me again, so it still able to get a like-new sharpening on it. However, the blade is pretty old, 13-15 years and well used up. I will replace it with a new blade when it's not cutting well anymore.

[fred everett]

Thanks for all the comments and insightful information. Just how picky are these saw with blades? I cycle 3-4 blades and all have been sharpened at least once but not more than twice....I don't believe anyway.

[Robert Engel]

I wouldn’t let that affect the decision, other than depth limiting shoulders and full blade dados.

I think Justin answered my question, but I will verify with SS. There is a limit to the brake adjustment & if the blade is too far away from brake it will not detect, and therefore not run. OTOH, if tripped, would it slow down the reaction time enough to make a difference? That’s my question.

Short answer is you may have to quit using some blades, but b/c they’ve been sharpened so much to be avoided - that’s both if our’s question.

[Jack Frederick]

I, too, suggest going to the expense of pulling the wire to the shop for the 220 saw. Prior to adding the SS RT to the right side I had the 52” set-up. As noted raising the saw would elevate the legs usually enough to drive the saw around…unless you store mass quantities on the extension table. Then I would move it by lifting and driving by lifting the ext table. With the RT I didn’t put the toothpick legs back on and do not need them. As long as we are blowing your budget out the window I will add that the RT is a pretty slick set-up. I think it was $500. I built my own router box and lift. I was able to rid myself of my old Norm router table, loose not capability and saved a lot of space.

[Roger Feeley]

I have a 3hp ICS and love it but based on past debates on this subject I feel like someone should pipe up about a European style slider. I know nothing about them and haven’t tried because I have what I have. Past discussions have always included some testimonials about the sliders.

[Rod Wolfy]

I had a Felder before. The sliding table was great. If I could put one on my SawStop, I would.

However, the SawStop sliding table is another $1,200 & it doesn't function like my Felder did. There is 10" to 12" of non-sliding table between the blade & the table. With the Felder, the blade runs next to the table. But, you're talking $5k+ for one.

Felder and I think Altendorf have table saws with similar blade stopping tech, which does not infringe on SawStop's patents; however, both saws start at around $20k. If you're rich, be my guest.

I moved and sold my Felder blade machine. It was nice, but my SS works great and I won't spend the $$$ again on that kind of saw (however, I do have a Hammer 16" J/P with spiral cutter head!).

[fred everett]

I can say categorically that $20k is well above my budget lol. Actually $3k is a lot as I'm maybe an intermediate woodworker. Plan is to grow into the cabinet saw lol.

[Rod Wolfy]

Fred, don't second guess yourself. The SawStop is GREAT saw! I was using it for hours today. Like a lot of people have said (that have years of experience), the 3hp with the 36" fence is the sweet spot. Yea, if I had the money, I'd go for the 5hp Industrial. But, for the average long term user, 3hp & a track saw is perfect.

I'm retired & have been woodworking for 26 years. I don't see myself "upgrading" again.

[fred everett]

Fred, don't second guess yourself. The SawStop is GREAT saw! I was using it for hours today. Like a lot of people have said (that have years of experience), the 3hp with the 36" fence is the sweet spot. Yea, if I had the money, I'd go for the 5hp Industrial. But, for the average long term user, 3hp & a track saw is perfect.

I'm retired & have been woodworking for 26 years. I don't see myself "upgrading" again.


Been woodworking about as long, but as hobbyist with children, not consistently at all.....I'll be able to spend a lot more time learning in retirement. Like you, I don't see myself upgrading again, thus my plan to grow into the saw....I just want to make the correct purchase.

[Michael Drew]

Unless you are absolutely insistant on the blade stop tech, I'd be looking at the Harvey saws. A lot less money, but simularly good build quality (and perhaps better). Yah I know, dead horse argument about accidents, but when I think about all the other tools and machines I have, and none have blade or bit or cutterhead stopping tech - I think I'd rather focus on what I'm doing than rely on tech.

[Rod Wolfy]

That's a good point, Michael. that should be paramount in any shop. I was watching the "experts" on Popular Woodworking (YT) showing how to use a miter saw. They were using it like a "chop" saw! That's one of my pet peeves. You're supposed to wait until the blade stops before you lift the blade. If you lift the blade, the spinning teeth can catch an edge and throw the piece. I got stitches once as a result. I then wrote an article & got published in Wood Magazine.

However, that still doesn't prevent accidents. I've found that as I get older, they are more likely. Would you say, 'give me a car without antilock brakes!' It's not worth the extra $500 for the technology. I have two friends that have cut off parts of their fingers on a table saw. Both would have spent the extra $1000 or even $3000 to have their fingers all in one piece!

[Robert Engel]

I've been ww'ing for almost 40 years. In that time I've own 4 table saws, had several close calls and 3 injuries (no digits lost).

The deciding factor for me was a close call doing some repetitive cuts, and the fact that, at 65, I know my mental sharpeness is not going to get sharper.

So, I guess you could say I bought the saw to protect me from myself. I know it mean a lot to my wife, she admitted she does worry about me getting injured.

[fred everett]

Unless you are absolutely insistant on the blade stop tech, I'd be looking at the Harvey saws. A lot less money, but simularly good build quality (and perhaps better). Yah I know, dead horse argument about accidents, but when I think about all the other tools and machines I have, and none have blade or bit or cutterhead stopping tech - I think I'd rather focus on what I'm doing than rely on tech.

Unfortunately, Harvey has no dealers on the east coast and it would be $360 shipping plus sales tax making it equivalent to that of Powermatic and SS cost wise. If I drive 45 minutes to tax free Delaware, I can make actual cuts on Powermatic and SS. I'm not comfortable buying something without touching it as this the most expensive tool I ever purchased.

Top priority is a quality table saw. I'm actually worried about the brake. Doesn't take much searching to learn the digital signal processor's software can be fooled....if that happens it's going to do it's job every time. Not unlike the Terminator - he was programed to kill Sarah Conner and that's what he did, but the first 2 were the wrong ones. That said, the false activations do seem quite rare.

[Justin Rapp]

Unfortunately, Harvey has no dealers on the east coast and it would be $360 shipping plus sales tax making it equivalent to that of Powermatic and SS cost wise. If I drive 45 minutes to tax free Delaware, I can make actual cuts on Powermatic and SS. I'm not comfortable buying something without touching it as this the most expensive tool I ever purchased.

Top priority is a quality table saw. I'm actually worried about the brake. Doesn't take much searching to learn the digital signal processor's software can be fooled....if that happens it's going to do it's job every time. Not unlike the Terminator - he was programed to kill Sarah Conner and that's what he did, but the first 2 were the wrong ones. That said, the false activations do seem quite rare.

I was gonna get my saw from tax free deleware but had no way to transport so i'd have to rent a truck. I found Woodwerks in Ohio shipped to me with no sales tax and paid the 250 shipping cost. It was worth it for me. I get you trying it, but the stores don't have all the models. I have been to 2 woodcraft stores recently (the one in PA and another in Washington DC) and both had the 1.75 on display. Maybe the 3.0 in the classroom. There was no powermatic on display.

[fred everett]

I set my hands on a SS yesterday in the store. I thought I'd be able to compare 3 saw brands on my spec but not the case...maybe miscommunication on the phone - I don't know. That said, I was able to do some comparisons and did come to some conclusions....just not 1:1 as the SS was the only saw available at my spec. I'm not going into details on the other brands because again not 1:1. In the end, I purchased the SS PCS 1.75/36" as I found it impressive.....fence, tables, mechanisms everything.

Many suggested the 3hp, but not wanting to delve into of my shops electrical I compromised. The brake was also a compromise. I didn't want the complexity of the brake, but the ability to bypass it took me back what I felt was an impressive saw. I'm hoping the arbor/table issues in the other thread are specific to that type saw....I hope. If everything goes well with the setup I'm pretty sure I'll be happy.

[Justin Rapp]

I set my hands on a SS yesterday in the store. I thought I'd be able to compare 3 saw brands on my spec but not the case...maybe miscommunication on the phone - I don't know. That said, I was able to do some comparisons and did come to some conclusions....just not 1:1 as the SS was the only saw available at my spec. I'm not going into details on the other brands because again not 1:1. In the end, I purchased the SS PCS 1.75/36" as I found it impressive.....fence, tables, mechanisms everything.

Many suggested the 3hp, but not wanting to delve into of my shops electrical I compromised. The brake was also a compromise. I didn't want the complexity of the brake, but the ability to bypass it took me back what I felt was an impressive saw. I'm hoping the arbor/table issues in the other thread are specific to that type saw....I hope. If everything goes well with the setup I'm pretty sure I'll be happy.

You must have missed my post as i mentioned they didn't have them all in the store. Glad you got the SS. you will love it and it's safe.

[Rod Wolfy]

Congratulations, Fred. Let us know how it's working for you in a few months. Make sure you replace the saw blade with a thin kerf if you're going to try some 8/4 in the mean time.

[fred everett]

Completed my SS setup….best setup instructions I’ve seen. After shimming the cast wings I was flat within .003 in all directions. Moving on with the setup I did experience the two common complaints….side table and wavy fence. I also experienced something I’d love to get opinions on…..I BELIEVE it’s a non-issue, but more on that later. My side table is workable for now, but I’ll rebuild it. When I got to fence setup my dial indicator showed waviness along both faces; however, both read 0 to the slots a good distance from the ends so I figured I’d move on with the setup. With the fence on the right side of the blade, I toed out the far end out 002. I don’t remember the numbers, but the 5 cut method/calipers told me I was good ripping an 18” piece. So good I was in disbelief so it did the test several times....all gave excellent results.

I’m rewinding here to b4 I did any cutting so I can get opinions on what I believe is a non issue. When unpacking the included blade I noticed chips in the teeth....it also seemed thin. Wanting to stay on the SS spec for initial cuts, I installed that blade. Once installed, I noticed the blade wasn’t centered in the insert, however, when rotated, it did not contact it. Assuming SS makes their insert to with leeway, I moved on for test cuts. When I started the saw for the first time the blade contacted the insert which was of course screaming loud….AND chips flew up on the table. I initially thought the brake triggered but the blade was still visible which I was happy about. After thinking about the chips/thin blade I suspected an out of balance or flexing issue so I installed a Freud blade. With a green light and no contact with the insert manually rotating the Freud blade, I started the saw. This time no contact, no chips and no issues ripping or cross-cutting. At that point I decided to put it though its paces on an unfinished shop project……3/4" oak and hardboard planer out-feed table. Saw performed nicely ripping 3x24 oak without issue.

I figured I’d post all the details so the pros might let me know if I made assumptions when I should not have, or if I did anything incorrectly. I’m open to anything suggested.

[Rod Wolfy]

Yes, I took the SawStop blade off after the first week. I put on a Freud thin kerf blade and then with the blade all the way up, measured to the slot at the back (on a tooth) then rotated that tooth to the front and checked to the slot. Mine was dead on.

I have a WW II and a Freud Glue Line Rip blade, but I've never used them. My fence is wavy, but the cuts aren't affected. I put a Jessem set up on the top of my fence, with mag switches, to quickly remove it, if needed.

[fred everett]

Yes, I took the SawStop blade off after the first week. I put on a Freud thin kerf blade and then with the blade all the way up, measured to the slot at the back (on a tooth) then rotated that tooth to the front and checked to the slot. Mine was dead on.

I have a WW II and a Freud Glue Line Rip blade, but I've never used them. My fence is wavy, but the cuts aren't affected. I put a Jessem set up on the top of my fence, with mag switches, to quickly remove it, if needed.

I figured I'd use the SS blade for setup and if I was able to get a little mileage out of it that would be a bonus. The blade is junk but I'm not going to beat SS up on it....doesn't bother me in the least.

The wavy fence is a non-issue for most operations I perform. Keyword is "most" as I just ran into cuts where it is an issue...small parts. Unfortunately, I'm building an urn and the joinery will be hand cut dovetails. I like to start with near perfect parts as any deviation is compounded. I'm currently reading through the threads on here related to replacing SS fence faces.

[Jim Dwight]

Congratulations Fred! You have the same saw I bought several years ago. I did not have your difficult with the blade it came with but I decided pretty quickly it was not a great blade. I mainly use one of two Freud thin kerf all around blades (a Fusion or a 50 tooth atb+raker) but if the saw struggles I put on a Freud thin kerf ripping blade. I sometimes use full kerf blades, usually without any issue, but went to thin kerf as my main blades after the saw struggled with deep cuts in wood that was warping as it was cut.

For thin kerf blades, you may want a 2mm riving knife which SawStop offers for about $15. I use it after finding I could not set the stock riving knife well with the thin kerf blades. I also went to a Colliflower throat plate which I like most of the time. It is mainly aluminum but has a sacrificial insert that are made of mdf. The inserts are very flimsy but they work. I made my own out of plywood and solid wood, I think they work better.

Jim