Standing up a new bandsaw?

[derek labian]

I recieved a new bandsaw, it ships in its side coated in plastic. I dont see any unboxing instructions. Am i supposed to just try to use a hoist to stand it up or is there some trick?

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[Mike Wilkins]

Got any friends with strong backs? Or maybe some high school football players you could bribe with pizza? Some of the Italian made bandsaws come with a lifting hook eye on the top that could be attached with a chain hoist over the top of the ceiling joists.

[Bryan Lisowski]

I would just walk it up slowly by hugging the spine of the BS. You may need to brace so it doesn’t slide back. The shipping pallet should help.

[Mike Kees]

I have done this with a combination of my engine hoist and several nylon endless loop straps. Wrapped the strap around the spine as high as possible on one and had a lifting eye on another. These two were lifted alone. If you have help it is not a big deal to just tip it up slowly.

[George Yetka]

Break away the pallet and lift it. A lot of the weight is low and if you are only lifting from the top side you are probably only lifting 35% of total. I say this but I only had a 14suv not sure how much heavier yours may be. But the 14 was like standing up a ladder that fell over.

[Erik Loza]

Engine hoist. If that's a 20" or 24" machine, you will want some mechanical help.

Erik

[Derek Arita]

I bought an inexpensive chain hoist from HF for just this sort of thing. I use it strapped to a beam in my garage and have used it to raise/support a few of my taller machines.

[Matthew Hills]

Getting a Minimax 16" upright was pretty easy with a buddy. It was a bit too heavy to feel confident/controlled to do it by myself.

I'd pay attention to your structure if planning to use a chain hoist. From your other posts, you may be working in a space where this would work okay. I don't think this would be a good idea with my 1950's garage's construction.
I have seen some people put together a beam with support just for this lift.

Matt

[Bill Dufour]

Looks like the table is already removed. never lift by the table. You will break the trunnions. Lots of old saws for sale with broken, unavailable, trunnions.
I would cut away the crate and remove the table and any other heavy stuff not attached to the saw. If you are going to use a mobile base maybe attach that before the tilt?
If you are going to use a hoist throw a 2x4 across several joists to spread the load then wrap a chain around the middle of the 2x4.
Bill D
Bill D

[Jim Becker]

THe nice thing about the Euro style welded steel bandsaws is that they can sit on their spine safely like in that crate and then be tilted up with a few strong friend and worst case with a winch If you remove the crating down to the pallet, free the machine attachment to the pallet and get the bottom hanging over the end of the pallet, it can be tipped up pretty easily...most of the weight is at the bottom due to the motor and base.

[derek labian]

Looks like the table is already removed. never lift by the table. You will break the trunnions. Lots of old saws for sale with broken, unavailable, trunnions.
I would cut away the crate and remove the table and any other heavy stuff not attached to the saw. If you are going to use a mobile base maybe attach that before the tilt?
If you are going to use a hoist throw a 2x4 across several joists to spread the load then wrap a chain around the middle of the 2x4.
Bill D
Bill D

I was about to order a mobile base, but then I thought it might be better for stability to avoid?

[derek labian]

THe nice thing about the Euro style welded steel bandsaws is that they can sit on their spine safely like in that crate and then be tilted up with a few strong friend and worst case with a winch If you remove the crating down to the pallet, free the machine attachment to the pallet and get the bottom hanging over the end of the pallet, it can be tipped up pretty easily...most of the weight is at the bottom due to the motor and base.

Thanks Jim. Also, I found the lifting hook Mike mentioned which I may use.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I use my Little Giant ladder to lift most big tools in my shop along with a small chain hoist or a come-along. My bandsaw MM-16 shipped vertically. I lifted it off the pallet with the ladder and a small chain hoist. I assembled my PM-3520B with the ladder and a small chain hoist. I put the ladder in the A-frame configuration, a 4x4 across the top and attach the chain hoist and then use it to lift heavy things.

[Jim Becker]

I was about to order a mobile base, but then I thought it might be better for stability to avoid?

For a bandsaw, if your intention is to park it and never or very rarely move it, eschew the mobile base. (same for a drill press) These tools are "more top heavy" and the more stability you give them from being directly on the floor, the better, IMHO. MY MM16 sits on the floor with the OEM johnson-bar type three point mobility kit. I've moved it maybe three times since I've owned it and one of those moves was into my new temporary shop this summer. Now if I was going to move it frequently, I'd want something easier to deal with, but still as low to the floor and hopefully with a lot of stiffness, too. You just do not want it moving even an iota when you are resawing that tall, thick piece of really expensive wood!

[Dave Cav]

As I recall it only took three of us to stand my S540 up. Disassemble the crate (LOTS of nails), stand it up. Instead of a mobile base I built a sub base for mine I could get a pallet jack under.

[Warren Lake]

you need a Donk, Crocodile Dundee had one

[derek labian]

you need a donk, crocodile dundee had one

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:d

[John TenEyck]

FWIW, I have my 17", 600+lb Grizzly on a ShopFox mobile base that has locking screws outboard of the wheels. I rarely move the saw but when I need to the mobile base works very well. In place, with the feet lowered, it's rock solid. I slice a lot of wide veneer so the machine needs to be stable - and it is.

If you need to lift the saw with a chain fall or winch, just put a large diameter pipe or 4 x 4 over several ceiling joists in your garage. The closer you are to a wall the stronger it will be. You could even add cripples between the floor and joists, if needed.

John

[derek labian]

I use my Little Giant ladder to lift most big tools in my shop along with a small chain hoist or a come-along. My bandsaw MM-16 shipped vertically. I lifted it off the pallet with the ladder and a small chain hoist. I assembled my PM-3520B with the ladder and a small chain hoist. I put the ladder in the A-frame configuration, a 4x4 across the top and attach the chain hoist and then use it to lift heavy things.

I would use my chain hoist, but every-time I need to lift something, I have to build a gantry. My garage is supported by a 25' 12x6x2 glue-lam beam that is supported by a perpendicular 17' 20x4x2 glue-lam beam. Above that is an already heavy room and the idea of mounting a hoist to it to lift heavy stuff makes me a bit queasy.

[Thomas McCurnin]

A couple 10-12" CMU concrete bricks at the end on the floor. Raise it up a foot or so, put another concrete brick under it while the bottom ones hold it in place and keep it from moving. Repeat until it can easily tip to an upright position.

[derek labian]

FWIW, I have my 17", 600+lb Grizzly on a ShopFox mobile base that has locking screws outboard of the wheels. I rarely move the saw but when I need to the mobile base works very well. In place, with the feet lowered, it's rock solid. I slice a lot of wide veneer so the machine needs to be stable - and it is.

I had my old bandsaw on a mobile base, and it was fine. I just wasn't sure if that would work as well with a 1000+lbs saw. Seems like it will probably be fine. Thanks.

[Warren Lake]

Yes Derek thats him, you could also see if his brother Mongo is not busy.

[Rick Potter]

When I brought home my 24" used Aggizzani, my grandson and I got it out of the truck OK, tilted it down onto a couple 4x4's, and used a pallet jack to get it to the shop. Then realized it would not fit under the door standing up.

My gardening crew showed up about then, and volunteered to help. The three of them tipped it and brought it into the shop where we set it back upright. Five minute job. Later I made a simple 4x4 at each end base, that allows me to use a narrow pallet jack to move it easily.

About 8 years earlier the same lawn crew lifted the top of my 3 HP dust gorilla in place.

[Patrick Kane]

I tilted a 20" ACM by myself. Was it easy? No. Did i feel like it was dangerous? No. Two men worth their salt should easily be able to tilt that saw upright. And because its almost 2022, two women worth their salt should easily be able to tilt that saw upright. Assuming its a 20" saw, you are talking about 600-700lbs. I would guess 2/3rd of that weight is from the table down to the base and motor. If its A 24", then i dont think that is a one man job, but is still a 2-3 person job.

If you go to tilt it manually, you want to brace the bottom against a wall with something. What you dont want to happen is the bottom scoots out on you as you use it as a fulcrum to tilt the saw.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I have been able to tilt up and down a couple of 18" bandsaws by myself, and roll them around on a hand truck while tilted, but they're not as heavy as what you probably have.

[Mike Null]

I have a mobile base for my 14" Laguna. It's not a big issue but I wouldn't buy another as I'd like it to be a bit more stable.

[John TenEyck]

I would use my chain hoist, but every-time I need to lift something, I have to build a gantry. My garage is supported by a 25' 12x6x2 glue-lam beam that is supported by a perpendicular 17' 20x4x2 glue-lam beam. Above that is an already heavy room and the idea of mounting a hoist to it to lift heavy stuff makes me a bit queasy.

You should be able to lift a car from that kind of support. Put a cripple on each side of the machine and you instantly have a gantry.

John

[derek labian]

When I brought home my 24" used Aggizzani, my grandson and I got it out of the truck OK, tilted it down onto a couple 4x4's, and used a pallet jack to get it to the shop. Then realized it would not fit under the door standing up.

My gardening crew showed up about then, and volunteered to help. The three of them tipped it and brought it into the shop where we set it back upright. Five minute job. Later I made a simple 4x4 at each end base, that allows me to use a narrow pallet jack to move it easily.

About 8 years earlier the same lawn crew lifted the top of my 3 HP dust gorilla in place.

I need to switch lawn crews. :)

[derek labian]

I tilted a 20" ACM by myself. Was it easy? No. Did i feel like it was dangerous? No. Two men worth their salt should easily be able to tilt that saw upright. And because its almost 2022, two women worth their salt should easily be able to tilt that saw upright. Assuming its a 20" saw, you are talking about 600-700lbs. I would guess 2/3rd of that weight is from the table down to the base and motor. If its A 24", then i dont think that is a one man job, but is still a 2-3 person job.

If you go to tilt it manually, you want to brace the bottom against a wall with something. What you dont want to happen is the bottom scoots out on you as you use it as a fulcrum to tilt the saw.

Its a 24" but the specs say 750lbs, and the table isn't on it. I'm going to see if I can get my herculean wife to help me out :D I'll remove all the siding, table and accessories, try to slide it to the edge, and then tip it up with some 4x4's under it. If I don't post again, you know it didn't go well :D

[derek labian]

Its a 24" but the specs say 750lbs, and the table isn't on it. I'm going to see if I can get my herculean wife to help me out :D I'll remove all the siding, table and accessories, try to slide it to the edge, and then tip it up with some 4x4's under it. If I don't post again, you know it didn't go well :D

Ok, well I tried to lift it up, at least laying down, I guess I'm not one of those two "stout" men. I'm going to have to build that gantry.

[derek labian]

Ok, well I tried to lift it up, at least laying down, I guess I'm not one of those two "stout" men. I'm going to have to build that gantry.

Interestingly, the back side of this saw is not flat, its angled. I assume that it's some kind of design ascetic however it makes it very hard to just "lift up" since it constantly wants to roll to one side and fall over. There is only one lifting hook. Luckily I unpacked the middle of the saw, found a damaged bell housing, and the manual. The manual simply says lift it by the off-center hook at the top of the frame. :/

[derek labian]

Ok, to wrap this thread up, we got it off the pallet. I built a temporary gantry anchored to the pallet, used a chain hoist to lift it part way until I ran out of slack on the hoist, and then pushed it the rest of the way. Thank god it comes with the motor and table dismounted.

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[Jim Becker]

Nice stout machine! Congrats on getting it on the floor and enjoy it!

[Myk Rian]

I would use my chain hoist, but every-time I need to lift something, I have to build a gantry..
I set a couple 2x4s under the beam/s to the floor. I've pulled engines that way.

[Mike Kees]

Curious ,what saw is that one ?

[Zachary Hoyt]

It looks nice, and very upright now. Good for you. I hope the rest of the setup process will be less arduous.

[derek labian]

It looks nice, and very upright now. Good for you. I hope the rest of the setup process will be less arduous.

sadly, looks like the bell housing on motor was damaged at factory.

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[derek labian]

Curious ,what saw is that one ?

SCM Formula S 640P
24” 3-phase motor

[Erik Loza]

sadly, looks like the bell housing on motor was damaged at factory....

This happened to us from time to time but kinda' surprising to see it in a machine that is delivered in a fully enclosed crate (the Centauros were all delivered in open-style framed pallets, so motor more exposed). I've never seen a bandsaw delivered with the motor not installed. Maybe the motor rolled around inside the crate during transport?

Derek, as long as the actual motor housing and fan arbor shaft aren't damaged, you could remove the cover, tap out the dents, and then straighten out the fan by hand. Should work fine to get you by.

Erik

[derek labian]

This happened to us from time to time but kinda' surprising to see it in a machine that is delivered in a fully enclosed crate (the Centauros were all delivered in open-style framed pallets, so motor more exposed). I've never seen a bandsaw delivered with the motor not installed. Maybe the motor rolled around inside the crate during transport?

Derek, as long as the actual motor housing and fan arbor shaft aren't damaged, you could remove the cover, tap out the dents, and then straighten out the fan by hand. Should work fine to get you by.

Erik

The motor was in boxed and shrink wrapped in the gullet of the band saw securely, with no damage around it, packed in a box. I'm sure it happened at the factory before it was packed. SCM seems to agree, but no response beyond that.

I had the same idea to remove the bell housing, however that plan went awry when I ran into this screw:

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How the hell am I supposed to get that off?? The box appears to be part of the motor housing, i.e. not removable, or at least painted into a solid piece. I was able to bend it out enough to get the impeller to turn. Any more advise is appreciated.

[Erik Loza]

...How the hell am I supposed to get that off?? The box appears to be part of the motor housing, i.e. not removable, or at least painted into a solid piece. I was able to bend it out enough to get the impeller to turn. Any more advise is appreciated.

Ouch! You ought to be able to remove that J-box/enclosure by removing the access cover. 100% that it just screws to the cast aluminum motor housing. They probably install the fan cover first, then that enclosure, then spray paint the whole thing. You might have to de-pin motor leads from the terminal black to get access to the screws but there surely is a way to remove that enclosure.

Erik

[Holmes Anderson]

I would through-bolt a lag eye in the laminated joist and use the chain hoist. I lifted a MM16 alone with a come-along and a lag hook screwed into a fir joist. I would not try to tilt that saw up with muscle alone, regardless of how many helpers I had.

[derek labian]

Ouch! You ought to be able to remove that J-box/enclosure by removing the access cover. 100% that it just screws to the cast aluminum motor housing. They probably install the fan cover first, then that enclosure, then spray paint the whole thing. You might have to de-pin motor leads from the terminal black to get access to the screws but there surely is a way to remove that enclosure.

Erik

Thanks for confirming I can take it off. I'm sure SCM's crack team of specialists will get back to me any minute now with an update :eek:

[Warren Lake]

Id send the Donk usually it speeds up service. Bikers are good as well.

[Bill Dufour]

I do not remember exactly but on my lathe motor there was a similar issue. I was able to rotate the fan duct like 60 degrees to align with some other holes that where more clear. Consider a short stud and nut instead of the original screw.
Since you have to wire in the motor anyway consider a short cord on the motor and a twist lock plug into a short cord and twist lock female out of the switch gear. I can often find a matched set at habitat for under $20 since I do not care if they mate with anything else.
Bill D
Bill D

[derek labian]

I do not remember exactly but on my lathe motor there was a similar issue. I was able to rotate the fan duct like 60 degrees to align with some other holes that where more clear. Consider a short stud and nut instead of the original screw.
Since you have to wire in the motor anyway consider a short cord on the motor and a twist lock plug into a short cord and twist lock female out of the switch gear. I can often find a matched set at habitat for under $20 since I do not care if they mate with anything else.
Bill D
Bill D

Actually the motor comes prewired (hardwired) just not installed. Its attached to the sander, so i had to maneuver around that while standing it up.