Winding Sticks for Table Legs

[Adel Heiba]

Just curious— I have constructed a table and I have no reference surface in the home to consider as dead flat for the size of the table. I want to make sure that it sits flat on the floor. Are winding sticks a viable option?

[Curt Putnam]

Just how flat is your floor? Unless it is dead flat then dead flat legs will not help all that much.

[Andrew Hughes]

Don’t worry the legs will all touch the floor. The table will flex and twist and nobody will notice.

[Jack Frederick]

Get the table in the position you want it and check it for level. Depending upon how far out the floor is you can raise the table with sawhorses or such blocking it level. Winding sticks can be used at that point. With the top set level you can then mark and cut the legs and the table will sit flat in that space…and maybe only in that space.

[Richard Coers]

Curious why you need a dead flat table and what dead flat means to you? Since the pandemic started I eat almost all of my meals on my lap while watching TV. That's flat enough for me. Everyone needs a good straightedge, sounds like now is the time for you to buy one.

[Scott Clausen]

Unless you are making the table for a set location and can be sure no one will rotate it 180 degrees forget about the location. Just get it on a dead flat surface and adjust legs to fit. Some foam pads can increase tolerance too.

[Jim Koepke]

[edited]
Everyone needs a good straightedge, sounds like now is the time for you to buy one.

A local machinist supply shop had a 24" model on sale for $70, too rich for me.

Good thing it is easy enough to make your own straight edge without a lot of fancy equipment.

Here is a post on making two pair of winding sticks > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?290331 < Winding sticks are, in effect, two matched straight edges. These can be made long if need be.

To see the images you will need to become a member, a good investment of $6.

My understanding of this came from an online article, Making Accurate Straight-Edges from Scratch By John A. Swensen.

The important part of it is online here > https://www.scribd.com/document/50097193/Making-Accurate-Straight-Edges-from-Scratch

jtk

[James Pallas]

Turn the table top side down put a level on the top and shim until level. Measure the legs equally and cut. That’s going to be as level as 99% of floor. You could get more complicated by leveling the top the same way and using a water level from one leg to the others or getting a 6 or 8 foot level or a laser level. In any case the top has to be level to get a good base line.
Jim

[Jim Koepke]

Leveling a table is actually fairly simple.

Set the table where it will be used. With a level on top of the table shim the legs as needed to bring the top to level.

Then use a scrap of wood set on the floor to mark around each leg from the top of the scrap. Saw on the mark, a little adjustment with a low angle block plane and chamfer around the edge should be all that is needed to have a table top level and not rocking.

The next best way would be to put adjusters at the bottom of the legs. This also isn't very difficult.

Search > table leg adjusters < for an infinite variety.

jtk

[James Pallas]

Leveling a table is actually fairly simple.

Set the table where it will be used. With a level on top of the table shim the legs as needed to bring the top to level.

Then use a scrap of wood set on the floor to mark around each leg from the top of the scrap. Saw on the mark, a little adjustment with a low angle block plane and chamfer around the edge should be all that is needed to have a table top level and not rocking.

The next best way would be to put adjusters at the bottom of the legs. This also isn't very difficult.

Search > table leg adjusters < for an infinite variety.

jtk

I agree with what Jim says. That definitely works for one setting but does not work if the table is moved. I usually level and than work with pads if necessary. I always have a starting point if i move the piece. Adjustable legs are another good permanent fix also.
Jim

[Dave Anderson NH]

Jim's technique not only works for table legs but is also useful for chair legs. Since I have hardwood floors all of our tables and chairs also get a slim self-adhesive felt pad on the bottom of the leg to prevent scratching the floor. It also tends to fix any small discrepancies between the height of various floorboards.

[Jim Koepke]

It has also been used on my saw benches > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?146777 < describes and shows the technique in the 8th post.

jtk