Table top thickness and wood question

[Tony Wilkins]

Finally getting around to build a trestle dining table for my wife. Have a couple of decisions to make…

1. I have been collecting plans for a bit for this. The main two have one major difference: one has an 8/4 top and the other 4/4. Thoughts on table top thickness?

2. There’s two main wood choices that my wife likes at the local lumber yard. One is African Mahogany* and the other (at twice the price) is Walnut. Lots of experience with the walnut, not so much with the African Mahogany.

* keep forgetting to call them and see what species the African Mahogany is.

[Jim Koepke]

Just my thoughts & opinions, since you have experience with walnut it might be good to stay with what you know.

Though truth be known some of my recent work on a variety of mahogany has me thinking of working with more.

As for the thickness it might be dependent on how big this table will be. A 4/4 top might be good for a small table. For a large table 4/4 would look rather skimpy. The 8/4 would enhance its massiveness.

jtk

[Tony Wilkins]

I’m looking at 7 to 8’ long by ~32” for the table top dimensions. Think shaker inspired trestle.

[Bill Carey]

when I made my 3' x 6' Stickley trestle table I made the top 7/8" because I wanted it to look lighter at the top - not top heavy.

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[Jim Koepke]

A wide chamfer under the top would make it look lighter.

If you use 4/4 you may want to run a support stretcher under the center to add stiffness to the top surface.

jtk

[Edward Weber]

African Mahogany is a distinct species,
Here is an article that can help identify one Mahogany from another.
https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/mahogany-mixups-the-lowdown/

I read that Mahogany costs are going up due to shipping costs.
https://www.woodshopnews.com/news/mahogany-prices-rise-with-increased-shipping-costs
The more you know

[Aaron Liebling]

I really enjoyed working with African mahogony. Found it generally easier to work with than walnut. That said, I love walnut, too. Can't go wrong either way, imo. Choose based on price, look and finish?

[Phil Gaudio]

8/4 seems like it would be out of proportion: not sure I have ever seen a Shaker inspired table with that heavy a top. I would be reluctant to go much over 1" final thickness. Yes you could chamfer the the edges as well, but not sure 8/4 would be necessary or desirable. A wide chamfer is a nice detail though, particularly on either end of the long dimension.

[Andrew Hughes]

Go thick because you can chamfer the underside to lighten it . Jim K mentioned

[lowell holmes]

Our table is 1" thick. That's what I would use. It is a laminated top. Why don't you measure one at a neighbor's house or do you have an old table to measure.

[Jack Frederick]

I built a copy of C Schwarz’s table from the ‘06 Autumn issue of Woodworking Mag, which I still have. 32x84x1” white oak top. One of the things I like most about this table is the high stretcher. The Grands were 2 and 5 when I built this and it is amazing how much time they have spent under that open table with a sheet over it for their play space. The dogs too. I like the 1” top. This thing is a beast with 1”. 2” would be difficult to deal with. With the open structure I think the 1” gives it a lighter look, but that’s only my eye.

[Steve Jenkins]

469718469719This is rift white oak. Top is 1-3/4” with undercut bevel. Sorry for the rotation.

[Jim Koepke]

Reading old Fine Woodworking magazines is one of my bedtime activities to help me fall asleep.

Last night it was the September/October, 1983, issue #42, with an article on designing trestle tables. One of the design formulas was to keep the top from sagging by having approximately 5/9ths of the top between the supports with 2/9ths overhang at either end.

The comment on the tops thickness said it should be gauged on the thickness of the posts (legs?) and usually should be thinner.

jtk

[Jerry Olexa]

Agree..go with wood you know : Walnut....I personally like a thick top...Just me but i'd go 8/4 if u can..Just my opinion/

[James Pallas]

Because of the style (trestle) lends itself to heavier design I would probably go that way. If the weight is no concern. The top alone will go over 100#s. With the leg assemblies about the same. I’m partial to walnut for both look and working properties.
Jim

[Curt Putnam]

All that beautiful grain in African Mahogany (any species) is reversing grain. Unless you have an uber sharp plane iron and are expert with a close set cap iron, you are going to wind up frustrated and needing to sand rather than plane. YMWV

[Tony Wilkins]

All that beautiful grain in African Mahogany (any species) is reversing grain. Unless you have an uber sharp plane iron and are expert with a close set cap iron, you are going to wind up frustrated and needing to sand rather than plane. YMWV

That’s my main concern (re the reversing grain).

[Mel Fulks]

That’s my main concern (re the reversing grain).

Yes, have seen a couple of shop owners save money by buying the REAL stuff. But some of the employees were disappointed to see that
wonderful supply of kindling cut off !

[Tony Wilkins]

Decided on the 4/4 top and leaning heavily toward using the walnut. The guy isn’t sure what species of African mahogany it is; he thinks it might be sapele (once I mentioned the name). I think I’ll get a small board of the A.M. to play around with though, maybe make a box or something.

[Russell Nugent]

I found sapele to be a pleasure to work with when I used it for tapered table legs