Scott Winners
12-07-2021, 1:16 AM
I feel pretty good about the half of the cleat system that gets fastened to the wall. If the hanging item is heavy enough I can use a wider board on the wall to get two screws per stud.
I am tripping over, haven't found any guidance online, about the width of the cleat that goes on the back of the cabinet, or how to fasten it securely.
My immediate concern is a till for handsaws, nominal 30" wide, 40" tall and 12" depth. The case work is going to be 4/4 hardwood. Total weight, saws, some files, a couple sets, the hardwood case, should be well under 100#, maybe 60-70# tops.
On the wall I am thinking 4/4 hardwood, 3-4" wide and 30 inches long I will be able to get two 3" screws (I like the #9 GRK uber grade at 870# shear each) into each of two studs, 4 screws, 3400 some pounds could hang from that. I think at 100# of cabinet and content the 3-4" wide cleat half on the wall shouldn't mar the 1/2 drywall.
But what about on the back of the case? I am not going to have a lot of scrap at the end of this, so getting crazy with mortise and tenon joinery to incorporate the cleat half in the case with joinery is going to require a lot of thought. Can I just look at the shear strength of #8-10-12 screws (which seems to be based on threaded penetration into the lower layer) and then use some glue for overkill? Fasten directly to the back of the case?
Please? I am not going to have enough scrap to cook anything bigger than about a 4" bluegill. I do have enough material (seasoning in my shop for two years) to put a brace across the back top and bottom, and make the cleat. I can get some more beech from the store, but I am not in a position to wait two more years.
I have been worried about the 30" span of the cleat half on the cabinet back bowing, but it occurs to me once the cabinet is hung in the mating cleat on the wall the 30" span on the cabinet back will be supported by the cleat half fastened to the wall every 16 inches.
I did search here quite a bit in the old threads and haven't found this discussed before.
Thanks
I am tripping over, haven't found any guidance online, about the width of the cleat that goes on the back of the cabinet, or how to fasten it securely.
My immediate concern is a till for handsaws, nominal 30" wide, 40" tall and 12" depth. The case work is going to be 4/4 hardwood. Total weight, saws, some files, a couple sets, the hardwood case, should be well under 100#, maybe 60-70# tops.
On the wall I am thinking 4/4 hardwood, 3-4" wide and 30 inches long I will be able to get two 3" screws (I like the #9 GRK uber grade at 870# shear each) into each of two studs, 4 screws, 3400 some pounds could hang from that. I think at 100# of cabinet and content the 3-4" wide cleat half on the wall shouldn't mar the 1/2 drywall.
But what about on the back of the case? I am not going to have a lot of scrap at the end of this, so getting crazy with mortise and tenon joinery to incorporate the cleat half in the case with joinery is going to require a lot of thought. Can I just look at the shear strength of #8-10-12 screws (which seems to be based on threaded penetration into the lower layer) and then use some glue for overkill? Fasten directly to the back of the case?
Please? I am not going to have enough scrap to cook anything bigger than about a 4" bluegill. I do have enough material (seasoning in my shop for two years) to put a brace across the back top and bottom, and make the cleat. I can get some more beech from the store, but I am not in a position to wait two more years.
I have been worried about the 30" span of the cleat half on the cabinet back bowing, but it occurs to me once the cabinet is hung in the mating cleat on the wall the 30" span on the cabinet back will be supported by the cleat half fastened to the wall every 16 inches.
I did search here quite a bit in the old threads and haven't found this discussed before.
Thanks