MM16 caster question

[Aaron Heck]

These look like the Zambus/Great Lake casters that everyone gets

https://www.amazon.com/Skelang-Leveling-Retractable-Workbench-Capacity/dp/B07ZD1T5NW

I was just a little confused on the bolt i need. I see “m12 x 1.75” mentioned in past threads. Is that just a 1 and 3/4” m12 bolt? Any specific thread pitch or are they all the same? And i guess to mount the bolt simply goes thru the holes in the base of the saw and screws into the caster? Simple as that?

[Richard Coers]

https://www.fastenermart.com/understanding-metric-fasteners.html

[Matthew Hills]

This is the Zambus caster I ordered for my MM16:
https://www.zambus.com/products/ac-0300s.html

[Aaron Heck]

Thanks for the link. So m12 x 1.75 is standard course thread. So i just need the right length
And thats just the thickness of the base plus maybe 1/2” to thread into the caster? Thats the length of the m12 bolt i need?

[Greg Quenneville]

Those casters come with a threaded stud and a nut. The stud takes a 5mm allen key, and there is just about 1/2” of stud between the caster and the nut, so plenty for the average steel frame member.

[Aaron Heck]

thanks, I can't seem to view that attachment, but I looked a little closer at my base and its just 4 simple holes drilled thru. So it seems like you just attach the caster pretty simply with the threaded rod and nut (and maybe a washer for good measure) thru the hole and you're done.

[Jim Becker]

thanks, I can't seem to view that attachment,

Click on the Donate button up above to become a Contributor...that opens up viewing photos, using private messaging and access to the Free Classifieds and other features. Only six bucks. :)

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[Ned Otter]

Just an FYI - if you have 4 casters, each rated for ~500 lbs, the max weight you should put on this casters is ~1,000 lbs, otherwise the wheel is too difficult to turn to raise/lower the caster.

Zambus is not the only game in town, and some competitors come with a builtin "ratchet":

https://levelingcasterstore.com/collections/stem-mount-casters/products/foot-master-gdr-60s-blk-2-nylon-wheel-12mm-stem-mount-leveling-caster-with-ratchet-ivory-550-lbs-capacity?variant=29456485970

[Aaron Heck]

I actually ordered this today
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZD1T5NW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fingers crossed. :) Figured since the saw only weights 500-600lbs hoping they will be ok.

In all honestly, the saw doesn't turn on anymore so I didn't want to sink a bunch of money in expensive casters. We are moving this next week so I just wanted to be able to move it around easier for now.

So dealing with this is step #2, not sure how I'm going to approach that. I think the switch is known to go bad so you may see a new topic from me soon about dealing with that. The saw has just been sitting as I've been out of the hobby for the past 10+ years but hoping to get back into it soon.

[Erik Loza]

Aaron, those casters look fine. Be aware: Centauro powder-coated their frames AFTER the nut has been welded in place for the leveling feet or casters, so it is not uncommon to have paint in the threads and for it to be some work to get the studs in there at first. I suppose you could pick up an M12x1.75 tap and chase out the holes if you wanted to do it right. Also, if the previous owner left any of the leveling bolts in place before putting the machine into storage or whatever, you may need some penetrating oil or a torch to break them free. The OEM leveling studs were of an uncoated black oxide style, so they were prone to rusting/seizing into place if left for long periods. Just a heads-up on all this.

Erik

[Aaron Heck]

I may be approaching this install wrong. My saw doesn't seem to have any threaded bolts that I can see, though sticking my fingers under the saw is not the most fun.

I have 4 holes on the base, I was just going to run the M12 stud that comes with the caster thru these holes and tighten them down with a nut and washer. Will this be ok or I am missing something fundamental?

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[Erik Loza]

If you were to look at the underside of the saw, there are two transverse square steel tubes that run perpendicular to the long axis of the base "pie tin". These are through-drilled, vertically, and the threaded nuts are welded INSIDE those. If you pinkie finger would fit into any of those four blind holes that you see, you would be able to feel the threading. I'm not explaining this well but you will see once you lay the saw down/hoist the saw off the ground in order to install those casters.

Erik

[Aaron Heck]

wow, ok, thanks, yeah, I was going in a totally different direction with the install. I'm glad you said something. I can't wait to see underneath there. I'm guessing your way is much more stable than my way of mounting them through the existing holes would have been.

Gotta figure out how to tip this thing a bit.....

[Erik Loza]

...Gotta figure out how to tip this thing a bit.....

If you own a pickup truck, lower the tailgate and put a towel or piece of carpet over the edge. With the OEM mobility kit, back the machine up to the tailgate and, using the tailgate as a fulcrum, lean it back until it tips into the bed of the truck. Then install your new casters. Tip back to vertical in reverse order. You WILL need a second strong back in order to do this safely.

Erik

[Aaron Heck]

does this look right to you? I must be totally missing it.

The only thing I can see threaded is the two holes in the back where I remove the mobility kit.

469378

[Erik Loza]

does this look right to you? I must be totally missing it.

The only thing I can see threaded is the two holes in the back where I remove the mobility kit.

469378

What year is that machine? I sold literally hundreds of MM16's and they always had the base like I described. I am shocked to see this photo.

Erik

[Ned Otter]

Aaron,

Here's a pic that might help --

469383

Best,

Ned

[Aaron Heck]

Ned, thanks, yeah, my corners are nothing like that.

Erik, i purchased used in 2003 or 2004.

What are my options? Just a std mobile base?

[David Davies]

Dissenting opinion. I installed Zambus on my MM24 and regret the decision. They are a pain in the but to raise and lower. For as often (not very) as I move my bandsaw the standard SCM supplied mobility base with the lever and wheels on the back would have been fine.
Dave

[Greg Quenneville]

You should be able to drill those angles at the corners to install the casters. There looks to be enough room to get a wrench onto the nut, especially if you have a ratcheting box end wrench in that size. A 1/2” drill would work, but better would be a step drill if you have one as they are less prone to grabbing etc.

[Holmes Anderson]

What year is that machine? I sold literally hundreds of MM16's and they always had the base like I described. I am shocked to see this photo.

Erik


My MM16 is built like Aaaron's machine. Mine is a 2004.
469428469429

[Aaron Heck]

I can't find that similar sticker on mine. I do have a metal plate riveted to the side that lists the motor specs (3.6HP) etc

If the mobilty kit worked, I guess I wouldn't be so interested in changing it out. Maybe my floors are that bad, although they were poured new 15 years ago when we bought the house. But I literally can hardly move it as its bottoming out on the floor too much.

So if I were to consider drilling some holes, would they need to be threaded? I don't know that I know enough to tap a new threaded hole, but I could buy a step drill bit and drill a hole big enough for the threaded rod that comes with the new casters.

[Jim Becker]

My MM16 is from around that same time period...I forget the exact year but it's the 3.6hp with 12" resaw. It has threaded accomodations in the four corners of the base for levelers/casters, but I've never used them.

[Erik Loza]

Well, this is truly odd. Could it be that the very early MM16's had a base more like the ACM or Agazzani saws? That seems like the only explanation. I started with Minimax USA in spring of 2004 and every Centauro I've sold had the design with threaded fittings. No exceptions. Poor photo, below, but you can see ends of those internal crossbeams circled in red...

469430

Getting back to the OP's situation, I guess a dolly-type kit like the Portamates would be an option?

Erik

[Aaron Heck]

I saw the portamates and they look nice. Looks like with a saw of this size, the recommended one would probably be the 3500 or the 3550 series.
I just ordered $120 worth of casters to replace the crappy ones on the Shop Fox bases.

I don't mind spending that money if I can verify the saw works. I guess that's my next step then.

Thanks all, I really appreciate the conversation. I def learned a bit here.

[Jim Becker]

One benefit to the commercial bases is that you have the ability to make the support structure wider than the machine base if you choose which can be more stable for something top-heavy like a bandsaw. Of course, that raises the cost as you need to put something in the bottom of the mobility solution that can support the machine's weight. Personally, I'd only go the caster route if I had to move the machine a lot. In my case, I very rarely move it, so the OEM mobility solution has been preferable as the saw's base is "on the floor". (Actually on mine, it's on a piece of 3/4" PT plywood so it's level and the rear wheels are off the floor)

[Greg Quenneville]

If your floor is at all uneven, the Zambus style caster may also lead to frustration. When you retract the feet you will have to wind them all the way up or they will find the high spots and jam. That said, I use them under most of my machines.

Regarding the drilling…no need to tap the holes.