Recommendation entry-level shooting plane

[Thomas Colson]

This weekend I have come to the conclusion that I need to bring a shooting board into my shop. Problem is, I can't decide what would be a good entry-level-budget dedicated shooting plane? #5? Low angle block? I have a Sargeant 4 and 5, and a stanley 7. Neither of the sargeants are square enough on the sides to use as a shooting plane, nor worth the time to get them square. The 7 is obviously too big. Looking for something beefy, so I'm thinking a 5, but then again, beginner here, so is a low angle block easier/more forgiving? I'm usually squaring stock less than 3" wide, and most of it less than 2. Veritas Right-Hand Shooting Plane is way out of the budget for this.

[Derek Cohen]

Thomas, you are best served with something that has heft. Forget about a block plane unless you are shooting thin softwood. You should be fine with a #5, which is easily found and cheap, but a #5 1/2 is heavier.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Scott Winter]

I would think anything #5 and up would make a fine shooting plane. Even a low angle jack makes a good shooting plane.

[William Fretwell]

Thomas I used an old Bailey 5&1/2 with my shooting board for a long time. Bit more width to play with and the sides were square. Set it up to take a very fine shaving on end grain, flip the board often, work in from each side so you don’t tear out the far side.

[glenn bradley]

Thomas, you are best served with something that has heft. Forget about a block plane unless you are shooting thin softwood. You should be fine with a #5, which is easily found and cheap, but a #5 1/2 is heavier.

Regards from Perth

Derek

+1. Used plane prices have gotten a bit high right now but, persistent searching can still land you a deal. You may put in a bit of work to assure the sides and sole are a good 90 degrees to each other. An alternative would be to look for a used Veritas Low Angle Jack. Like others I made that one of my first planes as it is so versatile AND makes a good shooter.
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Once many of us acquire more specific planes the LAJ can start to gather dust. Mine still gets a good work out but certainly served as a good shooter for many years. Check the Classified section here and elsewhere.

[Scott Clausen]

Although it helps if the side of the plane is 90 degrees to the sole, but it is not required. The lateral adjuster can be used to get the iron cutting edge to 90 degrees.

[Daniel Culotta]

Was about to say the same as Scott - unless it’s WAY out of square, you can use the lateral adjuster to get the blade 90* to the board and use the #5 you’ve got.

[James Pallas]

You didn’t say how far out your planes are. Finding a # 5 that is really close may be a problem. You’re most likely have to rely on the lateral anyway. Experiment a bit with what you have. A good heavy flat file can make good “adjustments” rather quickly. Granted a dedicated shooting plane will be better but still have to be tweaked with the lateral. I have never found the need for a dedicated shooter. I used a #6 for a long time and now use a LAJ which is not dedicated to shooting. I do have an iron set up for shooting.
Jim

[Jim Koepke]

Even the best sawyers can benefit from a shooting board. Mine is often used to bring multiple pieces to the exact same size.

Thomas, how bad is your Sargent #5 size plane? As Scott mentioned there are ways around this.

A #7 isn't too big for the job. Just make a bit larger shooting board. Having extra length and weight can be an advantage when shooting. Having more plane to register against the work in front of the blade is especially helpful.

A low angled plane is easier to use shooting. My reason for purchasing a low angle jack plane was because of an old shoulder injury. Since then my financial situation has improved and a left hand shooting plane was purchased. My left shoulder is fine but the low angle plane produces a much better surface than a standard angle plane.

My low angle block planes, #65 & occasionally a #60, have been used for shooting. For a lot of work they get tiring quick. Having extra mass when shooting is an advantage.

Derek, myself and others have made auxiliary handles, often called 'hot dogs' for our planes to make them more comfortable when using as shooting planes. To see them here you will need to become a contributor, well worth the $6.

Dereks can be seen at > http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/A%20Hotdog%20for%20the%20LV%20LAJ1.html

A variation is at > http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Building%20the%20Hotdog%20Mk%20II%20for%20the%20LV %20LA%20Jack%20pics.html

Mine is here on SMC > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?130114 < though the images can't be seen without becoming a contributor.

jtk

[Andrew Seemann]

I've always just grabbed whatever bench plane (#3, #4, or #5) was close at hand and had a fine set at the time. Just keep your eye out for any cheap bench plane in good condition.

I'm surprised your Sargents are that far out of square. Sargents are good planes, and there aren't many ways to put a plane out of square that won't also break it.

[Bill White]

Although it helps if the side of the plane is 90 degrees to the sole, but it is not required. The lateral adjuster can be used to get the iron cutting edge to 90 degrees.
Scott wins the prize! The lateral adjuster gets the iron dead on even if the sides are a bit out of square. I use my 5 1/2 for this function.

[Derek Cohen]

Scott wins the prize! The lateral adjuster gets the iron dead on even if the sides are a bit out of square. I use my 5 1/2 for this function.

You do want the sides to be square. This is important for the plane to run along the side wall of the platform. Adjusting the blade angle when the plane side is out-of-square will leave the plane canted slightly. This can create problems with accuracy and repeatability.

When I restored a Stanley #62 in 2004 (article on my website), one of the areas I worked on was squaring the sides for shooting. This was done on sandpaper by running the sole against a tablesaw fence …

https://i.postimg.cc/sDFY8CrW/Stanley-62-Low-Angle-Jack-renovation-html-m3e45f3c2.jpg

Yes, it is a little extra work, but it save so much aggravation later.

As an aside, I suggested either a #5 or #5 1/2 as a shooter. Keep in mind that the preferred plane is a LA Jack.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jack Dover]

You might also consider something called a "miter jack". They're expensive, but wait until mr. Schwarz figures they exist[-ed] and they will probably cost like a low orbit weather satellite. But anyway, a miter jack allows shooting with both hands. You have to be very careful not to plane into a jack itself, but there are claims that originally a few layers of heavy brown paper were glued on working surfaces for protection.

If you need to shoot for right angles only, maybe you could devise a jig that clamps on a piece and then everything goes into vises. I think that shooting is probably the least ergonomic activity of them all: using only one arm to cut in the least favorable direction trying not to shift anything.

[Luke Dupont]

You do want the sides to be square. This is important for the plane to run along the side wall of the platform. Adjusting the blade angle when the plane side is out-of-square will leave the plane canted slightly. This can create problems with accuracy and repeatability.

When I restored a Stanley #62 in 2004 (article on my website), one of the areas I worked on was squaring the sides for shooting. This was done on sandpaper by running the sole against a tablesaw fence …

https://i.postimg.cc/sDFY8CrW/Stanley-62-Low-Angle-Jack-renovation-html-m3e45f3c2.jpg

Yes, it is a little extra work, but it save so much aggravation later.

As an aside, I suggested either a #5 or #5 1/2 as a shooter. Keep in mind that the preferred plane is a LA Jack.

Regards from Perth

Derek


I don't have a table saw, but I see how one could make a simple jig to do this.

I've always wanted to square the sides of my planes but always put it off because it seems like a huge chore.

[Christopher Charles]

Sound advise above. One hack is to taper or shim the chute of your shooting board to get the plane perpendicular to the work if your plane isn't exactly 90 deg.

[Brandon Speaks]

I generally grab whatever plane I think is sharpest at the time, if not that whichever one is closest. In theory I like using my 6, most often I grab my 4.

[Assaf Oppenheimer]

5-1/2 is also wider - a benefit if you shoot wider stock

[Robert Engel]

I would skip the 5 and go to a 6. More versatile, at least for me.

If I could only own 2 planes they would be a 4 and a 6!!

[Jim Koepke]

I would skip the 5 and go to a 6. More versatile, at least for me.

If I could only own 2 planes they would be a 4 and a 6!!

My #6 was my shooting plane for a while before acquiring an LN #62.

It is still one of my more used planes.

jtk

[steven c newman]

IF I ever do use the chuting board....this would be the plane I'd use...
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And, the sole is indeed square to the sides....
469513
Nothing really special about this plane..
469514
Just a heavy old Stanley Type 19....last of the ''good'' types...
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The Jumbo Jack...No. 5-1/2.


However...last time I did any "shooting", it was with the board in the bench vise, level with the top of the wood jaws, and a #3 sized smoother was used...since it was already on the bench, anyway.

[Scott Clausen]

My shooting board was made with knife, saw and chisel. Nothing fancy but it works, I did get a Veritas LAJ to use on it just because I always wanted to get a new "premium" plane but I have others that would work. I regularly see on YouTube someone using a low angle block plane for shooting, not much heft but I guess it works for him.

[Deirdre Saoirse Moen]

I used to use my cheaper 5-1/2 for this, but I recently got the (very not budget friendly) LN 51 and its amazingly oversized box. Was planning on finally using it tomorrow.

I used the longest plane that made sense for wood of the size I was shooting, but usually wound up using the biggest bronze plane I had (because of mass).