DeWalt table saws – DWE7491RS vs DWE 7485

[Tyler Bancroft]

I'm in the market for a table saw for, basically, just ripping lumber. I have a track saw for sheet goods, but I'm going to be building quite a few face frames in the near future, so I'd like a table saw. My budget and shop space doesn't extend to a cabinet saw, so I'm looking at the 8-1/4" and 10" DeWalt contractor saws. Does anyone have experience with the performance of either of these at ripping moderately-hard hardwood (e.g., hard maple, yellow birch)? I'm not planning on using a dado stack, cutting joinery, or pretty much anything other than ripping. Cheers.

[Frank Pratt]

Jobsite saws come with so many compromises that are intended to make the saw easily portable. The only reason that would compel me to get one would be if I needed to regularly move it to & from job sites. A contractor saw or used cabinet saw can be had for about the price of the 10" DeWalt & will be a much better machine.

If all you're doing is ripping lumber, a band saw may serve you better.

[Tyler Bancroft]

Jobsite saws come with so many compromises that are intended to make the saw easily portable. The only reason that would compel me to get one would be if I needed to regularly move it to & from job sites. A contractor saw or used cabinet saw can be had for about the price of the 10" DeWalt & will be a much better machine.

If all you're doing is ripping lumber, a band saw may serve you better.

Unfortunately, I'm not in an area where I can easily get a used saw (and the shipping on that would be prohibitive). I do have a bandsaw, but the prospect of ripping many long face frame components and then getting them a consistent thickness isn't all that appealing (I'd like to get this project done before the end of time...).

[Aaron Liebling]

Get a quality think kerf ripping blade and you should be good. I made quite a few projects out of walnut using the 10" dewalt and it performed admirably for what it is.

Note: I abused it far more - dado stacks, etc... and it held up really well.

[Phillip Mitchell]

I have 3 table saws. A SCM slider, a Tannewitz Model U and a Dewalt 7491. Obviously the first 2 are not portable in the slightest so I use the Dewalt for on site / install use and it does the job. Mostly ripping is what it does. If you get a high quality thin kerf ripping blade it will do ok in hardwoods up to 1 1/2”, but be slow. You do not get a cut quality anywhere close to nicer and heavier saws but it will cut the wood, just expect to have deeper saw marks to sand/plane out for a finished edge . I don’t think I would push 8/4 hardwood through it with any regularity unless there was literally no other option, but sounds like you’re talking about mostly 4/4 stock anyway. The saw has never really impressed me, but it will get the job done as good or better as any other portable saw, though I have not tried the SS jobsite saw.

The rack and pinion fence is probably the best fence on a job site saw that I know of (relatively speaking) but you can still flex it with too much muscle or heavy stock. The dust collection isn’t as terrible as most other job site saws as it has a blade shroud that actually helps to some degree if hooked up to dust collection. You will want an outfeed table of some kind as the table size is pretty small. I use a 4x8 assembly table on sawhorses that are sized to be exactly the same height as the Dewalt table top and it solves that problem.

The best part about the saw is probably the wheeled frame/base it’s attached to and how easy it is to move it around. I would not want to use this saw permanently set up in a shop and would search far and wide for a decent unisaw for $500-600 with a decent fence before settling on the Dewalt for anything other than portable use, but that’s just me and I’m spoiled. Hope this helps.

[Phil Mueller]

I’ve used a Dewalt 8 1/4 contractor’s saw for some 10 years or more. Primarily for ripping. Like you, I have no room for a full size table saw. I have adjusted the table to be perpendicular to the fence and it cuts well. No problem up to 8/4 hardwood and even occasional resawing. 3/4 stock is a piece of cake. I’m primarily a hand tool user and do dress the cut sides with a hand plane…but don’t find the cut edge to be bad at all.

For longer stock I would recommend an infeed table of some sort…and an outfeed would be nice as well. I wouldn’t hesitate to get one for what you plan to do.

[Rich Engelhardt]

8 1/4" blades aren't usually in abundance & you pretty much have to settle for what they have in stock and try to get by.
10" blades on the other hand - can usually be found in whatever confirmation you want - without too much trouble.

I ran into this issue with my Delta 8 1/4" compound miter saw.

[Phil Mueller]

My apologies, folks. My saw is 10” not 8 1/4. As Rich said, blades are abundant. Tells you how much I use the thing:rolleyes:

[Bryan Hall]

I'm in the market for a table saw for, basically, just ripping lumber. I have a track saw for sheet goods, but I'm going to be building quite a few face frames in the near future, so I'd like a table saw. My budget and shop space doesn't extend to a cabinet saw, so I'm looking at the 8-1/4" and 10" DeWalt contractor saws. Does anyone have experience with the performance of either of these at ripping moderately-hard hardwood (e.g., hard maple, yellow birch)? I'm not planning on using a dado stack, cutting joinery, or pretty much anything other than ripping. Cheers.

I used a dewalt jobsite saw for quite a while. I still have it, for softwoods and jobsite work now. Thin kerf blade helps, but it's obvious the difference in strength of a jobsite saw vs a 3hp saw. It will cut anything you throw at it, just don't expect it to be fast or to give high quality cuts.

[Dick Mahany]

I can't comment on the 7485, however I purchased the 7491RS to rip face frames. I also grew tired of ripping face frames with my track saw and no longer have the room for a cabinet saw. The 7491RS has been great for that purpose. I have never used the stock blade. I use Forrest full kerf blades from my old unisaw and the DeWalt spins it fine. I have only ripped 5/4 maple and walnut, however the saw did fine.

I added a tall, long auxiliary fence that simply clamps to the OEM fence and am happy with the results. Pic below.

Many have discussed the tradeoffs with portable job site saws and their points are valid. I was initially discouraged about the 7491RS but purchased one anyway. Glad I did. It is way more capable than many unfamiliar with this model claim.

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[Bob Betker]

Dick: That is a nice looking fence. Do you have any shop drawings on it that you would be willing to share? I just bought a DW7491RS two weeks and I'm slowly upgrading it.
Thanks.

[Dick Mahany]

Dick: That is a nice looking fence. Do you have any shop drawings on it that you would be willing to share? I just bought a DW7491RS two weeks and I'm slowly upgrading it.
Thanks.

Sent you a PM

[Mike Hilden]

May I ask for the same please Dick?

[Jason D Snyder]

I would also love to get a copy of the drawings. That is the nicest looking auxiliary fence i have seen for these saws!

[Ron Citerone]

I have a Dewalt jobsite 10" saw. I think it is a good saw. Like others have said it is not a bench saw, but it can do a lot especially with a sharp blade. I ripped 2X stock a lot this summer on my cottage renovation and was quite content with it.

[Charles P. Wright]

In my shop I have a Sawstop PCS, but I bought a 7485 for working on my rental houses. I ripped a little bit of hardwood flooring with it, plenty of 3/4" smart side or trim, and some 2x softwood lumber. I do like the fence system and that it is compact and light.

[Patty Hann]

Hi Dick...
I just came across this... I just received a Dewalt 7480 for Christmas
NIB... had been stored unopened in relative's garage for years and I "inherited" it when it was decided that it was cluttering up the garage.
It's a jobsite saw, yes, but some folks can't afford anything more whether due to [lack of] shekels or floor space; in my case, both.

Already bought a new blade for it (Diablo 10" 40T multipurpose) and am using a friend's shop to make a maple zero clearance blade insert.
Just finished a stand for it and am starting to make the the infeed/outfeed tables.
I also want upgrade/reinforce the fence and your plans would be a big help.

Thanks ---patty

[Dick Mahany]

Hi Dick...
I just came across this... I just received a Dewalt 7480 for Christmas
NIB... had been stored unopened in relative's garage for years and I "inherited" it when it was decided that it was cluttering up the garage.
It's a jobsite saw, yes, but some folks can't afford anything more whether due to [lack of] shekels or floor space; in my case, both.

Already bought a new blade for it (Diablo 10" 40T multipurpose) and am using a friend's shop to make a maple zero clearance blade insert.
Just finished a stand for it and am starting to make the the infeed/outfeed tables.
I also want upgrade/reinforce the fence and your plans would be a big help.

Thanks ---patty

Sent you a PM

[Bob Goodwin]

I can't comment on the 7485, however I purchased the 7491RS to rip face frames. I also grew tired of ripping face frames with my track saw and no longer have the room for a cabinet saw. The 7491RS has been great for that purpose. I have never used the stock blade. I use Forrest full kerf blades from my old unisaw and the DeWalt spins it fine. I have only ripped 5/4 maple and walnut, however the saw did fine.

I added a tall, long auxiliary fence that simply clamps to the OEM fence and am happy with the results. Pic below.

Many have discussed the tradeoffs with portable job site saws and their points are valid. I was initially discouraged about the 7491RS but purchased one anyway. Glad I did. It is way more capable than many unfamiliar with this model claim.

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Bought a DW 7485 the other day (cheaping out from spending the money on the 7491). Was having second thoughts and went through all the reviews (AGAIN) and ran across this forum.

Just returned a DW 7485 and picked up a 7491RS. (Unboxing it now) I would also love to have a set of drawings for your auxiliary fence if I could.

[al ladd]

A minority plug for the smaller saw -DW7485....made smaller to meet code issues around ratio of infeed space to blade size I believe. Since these saws are underpowered for many purposes, and the smaller saw has the same motor as the bigger ones, you get more power with a smaller blade, and you're not tempted to put a bigger blade on because you can't. You can still put a box makers blade set with a 3/8" kerf on the smaller saw (with slight modification of a plastic guard that otherwise prevents you from doing so!). And the smaller saw is really easy to transport. Most of the workings , fence, etc, are identical to the bigger one...

See here for more on the advantage of smaller blades:https://info.lagunatools.com/the-many-advantages-of-a-smaller-diameter-blade-on-your-table-saw

[Bob Goodwin]

A minority plug for the smaller saw -DW7485....made smaller to meet code issues around ratio of infeed space to blade size I believe. Since these saws are underpowered for many purposes, and the smaller saw has the same motor as the bigger ones, you get more power with a smaller blade, and you're not tempted to put a bigger blade on because you can't. You can still put a box makers blade set with a 3/8" kerf on the smaller saw (with slight modification of a plastic guard that otherwise prevents you from doing so!). And the smaller saw is really easy to transport. Most of the workings , fence, etc, are identical to the bigger one...

See here for more on the advantage of smaller blades:https://info.lagunatools.com/the-many-advantages-of-a-smaller-diameter-blade-on-your-table-saw


I read the article and it doesn’t seem to agree with anything else that I have come across.