Sled on a slider?

[Rick Potter]

I have noticed that the host on the 'Rough Cut' WW show occasionally uses a sled on his Felder (?) sliding table saw. I suspect he only uses it to show how to cut small work, keeping the method applicable for any table saw, while he uses the slider to please a sponsor.

I have thought of a few circumstances where it might me nice to have a small sled on my Mini Max CU300. I am thinking of a small sled which extends on both sides of the blade, for cutting small parts. I don't want to reinvent the wheel here, and I am also going to make a small sled for my cabinet saw for use with a Pask type dado jig, which seems to work best with a sled on both sides of the cut. The jig I like is demonstrated on the 'I simply built it' (?) you tube site. I already built the Pask model, and thought this one is even better.

Feeling jiggy, and I thought it might be fun to try it on both saws.

Anyone use a sled on a slider? If so, what do you use it for?

[Ed Fang]

Have you looked in to a fritz and franz jig ? I believe there is even a current discussion about it. That’s what most sliding table owners use.

[Derek Cohen]

I suppose that you could view my parallel guide as a sled of sorts. It rips, crosscuts and tapers ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ParallelGuideForK3Slider_html_1fdf2a4a.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ParallelGuideForK3Slider_html_5edf4313.jpg

The table also creates a zero clearance insert and position ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ParallelGuideForK3Slider_html_m6eea9db6.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ParallelGuideForK3Slider.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rod Sheridan]

The closest I get to that Rick is a Fritz und Franz jig with a deflector wedge for small parts……Regards, Rod

[Ned Otter]

Here is an excellent example of a jig for a slider that's used to cut dovetails. It's long enough to cut on either side of the blade:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JeC6vYm65Q

[Jim Becker]

I used a purpose built sled on my slider for tapering legs...I actually took the same sled I used on a cabinet saw and retrofitted it so that it was fastened to the wagon with the edge on the cut line. Off-cut fell away to the right. The sled, itself, was reversed from how it would ride against the fence on a cabinet saw. A parallel jig and other such things also come to mind.

One can do the same thing for stuff like creating a tenon jig if they want, etc. The real beauty of such fixtures on a slider is that they are rock solid...much more so than running something along a fence as you tend to do with a cabinet saw. The fixture is "fixed" in place and the material is held exactly in the same relationship to the blade through the entire cut since there's no minor movement that can be added by one's hand like can happen when moving something along a fence without some kind of lock in place.

[Erik Loza]

Not sure if he is still alive/around but when I first started with Felder, Yeung Chan of the Krenov school came and gave us a presentation on box joinery with jigs for a sliding table saw. He owned a short-stroke CF7-41 and had made all these jigs that would attach to the mitre channel in the slider. He may have a book that shows this but it's been many years.

Erik

[Jim Becker]

Not sure if he is still alive/around but when I first started with Felder, Yeung Chan of the Krenov school came and gave us a presentation on box joinery with jigs for a sliding table saw. He owned a short-stroke CF7-41 and had made all these jigs that would attach to the mitre channel in the slider. He may have a book that shows this but it's been many years.


The possibilities are literally endless!

[Mike King]

I have a few "sleds" I use on my slider. One is a box joint cutting jig. The others are for cutting the grid work for Kumiko -- hexagon and diamond patterns. Well, simple grids as well. I made mine based on the sleds Taeho Kwon made for his Kumiko Club project. On the slider, the sled is fixed to the slider itself and uses the slot in the table as a registration. The sliding table moves the sled through the saw blade.


https://youtu.be/S5o6zdpj9LA?t=869

[Patrick Kane]

I made a very simple dado sled for my KF700 when making maloof joints. A FF jig isnt ideal in this instance, because you want to clamp the workpiece joint to a fence and support it on either side of the blade.

The way Rough Cut uses a crosscut sled on the Felder is a little laughable. To your point, hes trying to balance a few spinning plates in the air.

[Erik Loza]

The possibilities are literally endless!

The thing I remember the most was how he fabricated his own T-nuts for the mitre channels, out of hardwood. Profiled on a router table, then he drilled a hole and epoxied in a helicoil for his jig fasteners. It was genius.

Erik

[Jim Becker]

The thing I remember the most was how he fabricated his own T-nuts for the mitre channels, out of hardwood. Profiled on a router table, then he drilled a hole and epoxied in a helicoil for his jig fasteners. It was genius.

Erik
I kinda did that with the S315WS...oak material milled to fit in the slot and ordinary threaded inserts to do the deed. If anything, a sliding saw is the "ideal" platform for fixtures because of the wagon. You're not depending upon gravity or sliding along or over a fence to maintain registration...the slider wagon is always "spot on" and very accurate. That makes for both a more accurate operation and a cleaner cut that requires less hand work to make it pretty.

[Erik Loza]

I kinda did that with the S315WS...oak material milled to fit in the slot and ordinary threaded inserts to do the deed. If anything, a sliding saw is the "ideal" platform for fixtures because of the wagon. You're not depending upon gravity or sliding along or over a fence to maintain registration...the slider wagon is always "spot on" and very accurate. That makes for both a more accurate operation and a cleaner cut that requires less hand work to make it pretty.

When Yeung Chan gave that demo (2003-ish), the guys in the audience were like cavemen seeing fire for the first time.

Erik

[Kevin Jenness]

For a straight lining sled that can be used for long boards on a short stroke slider (as well as a cabinet saw) see post #19 in this thread https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?279455-Best-way-to-straighten-long-boards/page2 I used that jig for many years until I got a full size slider.

Rather than threaded inserts in wooden t-slot runners I use tee nuts for easier installation.

[Jim Becker]

For a straight lining sled that can be used for long boards on a short stroke slider (as well as a cabinet saw) see post #19 in this thread https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?279455-Best-way-to-straighten-long-boards/page2
This is one of the reasons I'm comfortable with the idea of a shorter stroke slider when I get into a more generous shop space...I rarely rip long because I cut material doen before milling and dimensioning, but there are "those times" when a longer stick does need to get processed. I think Derek Cohen uses this method for ripping on his slider, too, if memory serves.

[Carl Beckett]

I happen to have had a Rockler tapering sled that I use on the slider. I dont like how thick the base is, because that means the workpiece is higher off the table and the blade is high. But it works and I can leave it setup for a taper and put it on/off to come back to it later for the same angle. (sometimes I work in circles on a project)

The F&F, with stops set, is the most used, even for tapers, if the work piece is not too long.

[Mike Stelts]

Like Rick, I've found occasions where a crosscut sled would be useful on my Felder. Also not wanting to reinvent the wheel, I noticed one on Classic Woodworking and asked for the plans via email. No response.

[Rick Potter]

Appreciate the answers guys.

I already have done some of what is mentioned in your answers, like milling several feet of T-slot insert material, as well as using metal t-nuts. I try to stay away from the metal ones because I don't want to ding the underside of the aluminum slot. Great idea to put metal inserts in the wooden T-slot material.

I have researched each answer, to see where it leads, looking for videos, and will continue to do so. I already have a F&F jig, and use a couple types of hold downs that attach to the slot using the metal hold downs.

I want to next do a simple small sled that overhangs both sides of the blade to completely back up cuts on small items, as has been mentioned. It will include t-track and stops on both sides also.

Some great ideas, keep 'em coming. This thread may be useful for others as well as me.