Need help restoring old Casadei EMA KS/1400 sliding table saw. Missing fence.

[Michael Schuch]

About a month ago I purchased an old Italian Casadei EMA KS/1400 sliding table saw for $400. It did not come with the outrigger fence so I am going to try to construct one.

First some pictures then questions down below.

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The outrigger did not come with a fence.
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There are 4 holes in the outrigger obviously have been put there to hold a fence in the front and rear positions:
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You can see a crack in the outrigger where the adjustment screw for leveling the outrigger table goes. I am going to sand the corner round (for looks) and add a hold for the adjustment screw further in.
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The left two holes in the outrigger table have eccentric inserts for adjusting the fence square to the blade.
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My thought is to turn some round stock to make pins that fit into these holes. There is a stop in the holes to keep such a pin from falling through. The part of the pins that extend above the table I was planning on milling off half the diameter so there is a flat part of the pin.

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This is the aluminum extrusion I was planning on using for the outrigger fence. I figured I would make the pins as tall as the fence then use a couple of T nuts to fasten the fence to the pins.
This is the best I could come up with for a replacement fence. I am open to other ideas? What do you think of the extrusion for the fence? I had considered a piece of box steel for between the two legs then fastening the aluminum extrusion to the box steel to make it easier to slide the box steel left and right but this doesn't really buy me anything as I don't see a way to make the outrigger fence mount at an angle for miters.

I have no experience with sliding table saws or there fences. All I know has come from youtube videos. Any advice on the missing fence would be appreciated!

[Michael Schuch]

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This is the piece that appears to be designed for cutting miters. I dropped it and broke off the corner. It is configured to mount to the table via the same sized pins as the outrigger fence. There is a tapped hole for securing this at an angle. There are two sets of these holes. One set is near the middle of the table the second set is at the end of the table at the front of the saw. It appears there were provisions for mounting a bar in this piece. The only thing I can thing of is this was to put a stop in? If the broken corner is going to cause me woes I will make a new one on the mill.

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I was all set to build a Fritz and Franz for the sliding table. But there is something missing! Can you spot what is missing?

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So I ordered this piece of aluminum track with a slot the dimensions of a miter slot to give me someway of mounting a Fritz and Franz. It sits a little proud of the table though.

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These 6 cast iron brackets hold the current aluminum sliding table to the cast iron table.

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I figure I can pull these brackets off. Mill 3/32 off these brackets the width of the T rack. So the track will sit flush with the rest of the table. I would have to then cut the aluminum table narrower by the width of the track to mount it back to the sliding cast iron table.
What do you guy think of this idea? I am hoping that the 6 mounting brackets will hold the track ridged enough for clamping the Fritz and Franz jig as well as hold down clamps. I could add some angle iron between the brackets to give it extra rigidity if it turns out the track bends when I try to clamp stuff to it.
I am open to thoughts and suggestions here?

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For most of my heavy machines I make a heavy machines I make a heavy duty wooden pallet so I can move them around with a pallet jack.

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I am a little torn about doing the same for this saw. The incredible length of the saw seems like it would make it very hard to balance on a pallet jack. The casters and a mobile base seem like it would be easier.

I am not concerned about the height of the saw. I have it up on 8" x 8" blocks now and the table height is not too high for me. Anything this height or lower I believe would work well for my tall stature... unless anyone can advice otherwise?

[Michael Schuch]

The fence was VERY stiff when trying to move it. The fence is adjusted via a rack and pinion that is under the table. The previous owners did quite the butcher job on the adjustment handle and the locking handle.
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I removed the fence from the table and turned it over to find this bearing on this eccentric set screw. (The eccentric sets the height of the bearing / how high the fence rides above the table) The set screw was tightened all the way down and the bearing wouldn't spin. Some penetrating oil loosened up the bearing allowing it to spin. Setting the set screw and eccentric properly allows the fence to hover above the table. It now just glides over the table when adjusting the fence. The fence itself is about 40lbs in my estimation. When it is locked there is NO FLEX and no budging the fence until unlocking it. I really like this fence!

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There is a peculiar flat line running across the table. After flipping the fence over I figured out this line is where the bearing on the fence travels. The table to the right of the blade has ripples cut into it from the factory. I found this interesting and assume it is to make it easier to slide stock over the table through the blade be greatly reducing the contact surface area. Very cool!


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This non-matching hand wheel came with the saw. I assume they were going to use it to replace the broken fence adjustment handle. I like this idea and should be able to turn a new shaft to make mounting this hand wheel easy.
Those casters are rated at 900lbs each. I plan to build a mobile base for the saw using these casters.

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I am thinking of building the mobile base wider than the saw so I can marry my 10 Powermatic cabinet saw next to this EMA and use the same fence for both. I have seen this configuration else where in the forum but I don't know how well this will work or how easy it will be to make happen.

[Michael Schuch]

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There is a handle bent up at 90 degrees that you can see here between the elevation hand wheel and the tilt hand wheel.

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This lever with some kind of bump pad on it is what that lever handle goes to. I am completely stumped on this? I can not for the life of me figure out what the purpose of this is? Any guesses?

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This is where the scoring blade mechanism would go if it had one. I have dreams of making one but I doubt that will ever happen. I would love to see some pictures of how the scoring blade is implemented on other table saws?

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Unloading the saw.



I posted a lot of pictures because I wasn't able to find hardly anything on this saw on the internet. A couple of auction photos was about it. If anyone else has any version of the Italian Casadei EMA sliding table saw I would love to see some pictures of it. Especially the internals with the sliding table slid back and such. It appears newer versions of this saw have miter T tracks on the sliding table. From everything I read it seems like I will be kind of limited (no Fritz Franz jig) without the T track added.

ABOVE ALL IF ANYONE HAS AN ORIGINAL FENCE FOR Casadei EMA SLIDTING TABLE SAW I WOULD LOVE TO SEE AS MANY PICTURES OF IT AS YOU COULD GIVE ME.

[Kevin Jenness]

That's a nice project for an initiation fee of only $400- congratulations! (I accidentally typed a question mark instead of an exclamation point, at least I think it was an accident).

Seriously though, assuming the saw and carriage run true it should work out well. It sounds like you have the wherewithal to make necessary repairs and modifications. Too bad it lacks scoring, but you can get by without. I have used a Casadei shaper of similar vintage and it was quite solid.

Your fence plan seems sound. I used to work on a Martin that had a similar eccentric bushing mount- tricky to adjust but bomber once set at 90. As I recall, the pins engaged with a slot in the bottom of the fence which allowed for sliding side to side -with the outboard pin moved the fence could be pivoted for miters. There was a clamp under the fence that pinched a support bar in the extension table. You could simply use a c clamp.

Does your extrusion allow for mounting a tape? You will need a flip stop(s)- I have made adequate ones out of wood and butt hinges. Perhaps you could source and adapt a replacement fence.


I like the idea of letting in a t-slot if the brackets are beefy enough. Maybe you could lower rather than notch them. Fritz and Franz don't need clamping, but clamps are a good thing. You should be able to replace the broken kipp levers easily enough. If it lacks a riving knife that would be well worth fabricating.

[Phillip Mitchell]

That looks like a stout saw. I have looked at EMA shapers for sale of this vintage and almost pulled the trigger a few times, but not because of lack of build quality. Looks like yours has been hacked at a few times but you seem to have the drive and tenacity to sort it out!

I didn’t read through every post and photo yet, but I have an older Italian SCM SI15F short stroke sliding saw I got earlier this summer that has some similarities to this saw. I can post some photos of it if you like regarding the fence and how it mounts as it looks very similar to what you have with the pin holes and eccentric bushing for squaring.

Have you put power to the saw yet and run the motor? What size motor, blade, length of stroke of the sliding table?

[Brian Holcombe]

Might be worth looking into a fence system with stops, like ProScale or Felder.

I personally would not remove thickness on those tabs, reduce the thickness of the insert.

The handles should be pretty easy to replace, check out the Kipp catalog or McMaster and you’ll find replacements.

I recently installed ‘leveling casters’ on my saw and super surfacer. They are rated for quite a bit of weight, roll into position turn level out using adjustable pads. Makes life easy.

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[Patrick Kane]

Agreed, i would buy a Felder crosscut fence in a heartbeat. i think the 72" telescoping version with one flip stop is $600. I have the current Felder crosscut fence on a 2005 KF700, and i am not displeased with it. The extrusion is very robust, and the flip stops are ok. I think the flip stops could be more robust and better designed, but still, pretty good. Ive seen enough of the crosscut fences on those saws from the 70s and 80s to tell you the Felder is several steps up from what even Martin was using back then.

That looks like a pretty robust and well-designed machine. It's also a little crude compared to newer machines. I love old machines, but sliding table saws are one machine category where things have come a long way--and for the better--over the last 60+ years. Im not so sure you can say that about jointers, cabinet saws, drill presses etc. But, for $400+parts, this will be a great short stroke machine. One, this seems similar in footprint to the Martin T17, i have. I would have zero problems with moving it with a pallet jack. It wont tip on you.

[Erik Loza]

To the OP, I’m going to take a contrarian view: Make your own fence out of 80/20 or whatever. Don’t order one from us, the Italians, etc. With the supply chain and domestic freight issues we’re seeing lately, it will probably take months to get here, cost an arm and a leg in freight, and show up damaged. Sorry, just being honest. I would do everything in my power to source your components locally or domestically. Just my 2-cents and best of luck with it.

Erik

[Jim Becker]

I'm with BOTH Erik and Brian. LOL. Either make a fence with 80/20 that's functional to your needs or go whole-hog and get a nice one that has an electronic scale. :) How's that for a definitive answer? :D

[Michael Schuch]

That looks like a stout saw. I have looked at EMA shapers for sale of this vintage and almost pulled the trigger a few times, but not because of lack of build quality. Looks like yours has been hacked at a few times but you seem to have the drive and tenacity to sort it out!

I didn’t read through every post and photo yet, but I have an older Italian SCM SI15F short stroke sliding saw I got earlier this summer that has some similarities to this saw. I can post some photos of it if you like regarding the fence and how it mounts as it looks very similar to what you have with the pin holes and eccentric bushing for squaring.

Have you put power to the saw yet and run the motor? What size motor, blade, length of stroke of the sliding table?

I would very much appreciate any pictures of your fence you could post. That would be great!

I have plugged it into my RPC and it powered right up, ran smooth and cut nicely with the blade that came with it and a 2x4 clamped on as a fence. I have not removed the lade yet so I don't know what size arbor it has. I am hoping for a 1" arbor but am guessing it will have a 30mm arbor.

[Michael Schuch]

I appreciate all the feedback!

The Feldler fence would be perfect! And I am not in a rush. I have done a ton of Googling and could not find anything near as perfect as the Felder fence! I did come across the "Original Saw Company" fence which looks to have a very similar profile to the Felder but it is only available in 4 foot sections that can be attached together. It does not look like I could get a solid 8 foot Original Saw fence.

The Prostop is a good idea too. I looked at their table saw rip fences and several other linear digital readouts but had not looked at there fence with stops. It is definitely worth considering, I really like the DRO on the Prostop!

Two great possibilities that I had not found on my own. I knew this group would come through for me!

I will start with the 80-20 aluminum extrusion I currently have. I have been holding on to that piece for over 10 years waiting for the perfect project. It does not appear to have any way to easily mount a measuring tape which is a major disadvantage. The Felder and Original Saw fences appear to hold measuring tapes at an angle which would be perfect for this application. I am confident that what ever I come up with for attaching the fence to the sliding table will be less than perfect so the 80-20 will be a good project to figure out the gotchyas before investing in an expensive fence. So, Jim, I like your idea of "BOTH", LOL!

I did plug the saw into my RPC and it powered up just fine. The blade that came with it cut very nicely using a 2x4 clamped to the sliding table as a fence. I have not found the spec plate on the motor yet, it isn't obvious where it is and the motor is not that easy to get to. I am guessing it is 5hp from the physical size but it might be bigger. I will eventually rewire it for a VFD for ease of use (not having to fire up the RPC). I have VFD's on several machines.

Crude? Yah, it is crude. But it is also built like a tank. I think the cabinet walls are about 1/4" thick steel, or the metric equivalent. It is a very heavy saw! It is a whole class or two above my Powermatic 71 12" cabinet saw in weight and build quality. The table slides very smoothly. I haven't tested the table for alignment yet but have found adjustment spots. With my previous experience with table saw fences being a Powermatic tube fence, a Biesemeyer industrial fence, and a Vega fence the fence on this saw is a thing of beauty! I love the rack and pinion adjustment. Replacing the knobs won't be to hard and the fence floats since freeing up the bearing it rides on. My whole shop is full of old machines, the oldest being a 1947 Redstar radial arm saw that I use extensively. I am fully aware it is not up to the standards of todays sliding table saws but it is way better than adding a sliding table to a cabinet saw which I have considered several times. For my hobby use it is going to be a big step up! There is no way I would ever be able to justify a newer sliding table saw for my hobby use.

My first task is to build a mobile base, which I have already started. This saw is going to require a complete make over of my 20' x 40' woodworking shop. The other half of the shop is 20' x 40' which I use for metal fabrication and machining. Once the saw is mobile I will be able to move machines around much easier and do some rearranging to find a good shop layout. My 12" Powermatic 71 cabinet saw will be the first to go. I am going to hang onto my Powermatic 65 10" cabinet saw. I would like to marry the 10" Powermatic and EMA slider together to conserve shop space. I do have a 12" dado set for my 16" Redstar RAS but I highly doubt it will fit the EMA so the Powermatic 65 will be worth hanging onto for Dado's if nothing else.

[Mike King]

If you want digital stops on the fence, you can either buy a Felder fence with them or buy the Felder fence without them and purchase Brian Lamb's digital stop retrofit for the Felder fence (Lamb Toolworks).

[David Kumm]

The original fence had T bolts that fit tightly in the bottom of the fence extrusion. Some of the T bolts had a spring or delrin set screw so they could be adjusted to a friction fit. That fit is necessary for the fence to repeat when the eccentric bushing is adjusted. Any looseness in the T will cause the fence to be off enough to make you crazy. If you are looking for a cheap fence and stop, a 60x60 extrusion with a Grizzly stop will work. I have had good luck buying extrusions from Framingtech as they will have odd sizes in the cut pile for a better price. The Grizzly stop is in the $100 range- or used to be before the world crashed.

The picture of the cast piece is a quadrant. If you want to see how they work, check out the Video of Jack Forsberg's Wadkin PK. Quadrants were made for many old cast iron sliders but most were drilled specific to the machine so they are not easily swapped. I modified an old saw I have to use an eccentric bushing similar to your design and it works well with an Accurate Technologies ( Proscale people ) fence. Dave

[Ronald Blue]

Having no dog in this fight but ran across this saw that sold with numerous photos. If they help great, and if not well they were inexpensive....:)

https://www.irsauctions.com/popups/paddle/?lot=322264&auction=07R10PXU1NGIJUX4UP60IWCK1593WH&id=18910

[Erik Loza]

If you want digital stops on the fence, you can either buy a Felder fence with them or buy the Felder fence without them and purchase Brian Lamb's digital stop retrofit for the Felder fence (Lamb Toolworks).

Be aware: Just the fence itself, with shipping and all, will probably end up being close to $2K and STILL a likelihood that it could show up damaged. The "damaged" part being fault of UPS or FedEx, which will end up coming out of the customer's pocket, not Felder's. Just telling you what I see from the vendor's side.

Erik

[Warren Lake]

I've sent lots to the US and nothing was damaged. I packed myself. Box in a box with Polyfoam between, all cardboard double wall. Pre made double wall boxes a table saw to cut all internal. Cut the cardboard, cut the polyfoam and hot glue gun to stick it on.

[Michael Schuch]

Having no dog in this fight but ran across this saw that sold with numerous photos. If they help great, and if not well they were inexpensive....:)

https://www.irsauctions.com/popups/paddle/?lot=322264&auction=07R10PXU1NGIJUX4UP60IWCK1593WH&id=18910

Thank you! That has the best pictures of the original fence that I have found. Most all pictures that I have found have been auctions. That auction has more pictures than most... and that saw is very close to the vintage of my saw. I tried to post a lot of pictures of my saw in case someone comes across my post looking for information on a Casadei sliding table saw in the future.

It looks like the metal dowels that hold the fence to the table on that saw are under the fence which would be much handier for moving the fence between the front and rear of the outrigger table. Due to the piece of 80/20 I have I am going to have to put my dowels behind the fence instead of under the fence.

That auction also has pretty good pictures of the scoring blade and the motor driving it which I really wanted to see.

[johnny means]

If I was starting from scratch, I'd take s look at what TigerStop has to offer. I've worked with them before and they are really nice on a slider.

[Michael Schuch]

I've sent lots to the US and nothing was damaged. I packed myself. Box in a box with Polyfoam between, all cardboard double wall. Pre made double wall boxes a table saw to cut all internal. Cut the cardboard, cut the polyfoam and hot glue gun to stick it on.

I think you are missing the sub text. I believe I am being told that a customer that is only interested in purchasing a fence is not worth their time and anyone that buys a $400 sliding table saw is not their target customer.

[Warren Lake]

not missing anything. without looking back post stated customer complaints on shipped stuff damaged. Thats even if you were the target audience makes no difference. I just stated logic.

A big company cant ship stuff with out it getting damaged? We all use the same shipping companies and it works for some of us.

[Michael Schuch]

not missing anything. without looking back post stated customer complaints on shipped stuff damaged. Thats even if you were the target audience makes no difference. I just stated logic.

A big company cant ship stuff with out it getting damaged? We all use the same shipping companies and it works for some of us.

I agree. If a big company "wanted to" ship stuff without it being damaged it would be no huge feat to do so.

[Brian Holcombe]

I don’t think that they think that way, I’ve only ever made small purchases with Felder and have always been treated well. Their accessories are excellent in my experience.

[Warren Lake]

people in another country paid me money to do work. It was common sense to package it so it would get there unscathed and they would buy more.

[Michael Schuch]

The original fence had T bolts that fit tightly in the bottom of the fence extrusion. Some of the T bolts had a spring or delrin set screw so they could be adjusted to a friction fit. That fit is necessary for the fence to repeat when the eccentric bushing is adjusted. Any looseness in the T will cause the fence to be off enough to make you crazy. If you are looking for a cheap fence and stop, a 60x60 extrusion with a Grizzly stop will work. I have had good luck buying extrusions from Framingtech as they will have odd sizes in the cut pile for a better price. The Grizzly stop is in the $100 range- or used to be before the world crashed.

The picture of the cast piece is a quadrant. If you want to see how they work, check out the Video of Jack Forsberg's Wadkin PK. Quadrants were made for many old cast iron sliders but most were drilled specific to the machine so they are not easily swapped. I modified an old saw I have to use an eccentric bushing similar to your design and it works well with an Accurate Technologies ( Proscale people ) fence. Dave

It took me a little while to digest but I appreciate the reply! :-)

Instead of putting the pins under the extrusion I am thinking of putting them behind the extrusion and clamp them via T bolts in the back T slots of the extrusion instead of the bottom T slots. I surmised that the pins would have to be adjustable to account for spacing variations when adjusting the eccentric.

I thought that cast iron piece was a miter gauge... nope, it is a "Quadrant", which I had never heard of before. I watched some videos, now that I know what it is, and I am pretty disappointed that there isn't an angle scale etched onto my cast iron saw top. But now that I know what a quadrant is it gives me all sorts of ideas. The videos showed single piece and two piece quadrants. Although the two piece would be nice to have is the second piece really used that often? I suppose it just depends on how you work.

I get the impression that I will be setting my quadrant angles with the electronic protractor at first and will probably run with that until something more elaborate seems like it is needed.

Thank you for the information!

[Michael Schuch]

My EMA sliding saw has one of the nicest table saw ripping fences I have ever seen short of an auto positioning fence. The fence itself weighs over 50lbs (in my estimate) and it locks tight with absolutely no flex or movement in the fence when locked. There is a rack and pinion system on the fence so it can be easily positioned fast and accurately by turning a handle.

My problem is that it is 60" wide! I have a Powermatic 65 cabinet saw with an original 60" two tube front and rear locking fence and a Powermatic 71 cabinet saw with an even wider industrial Biesemeyer fence. Both of them wear 30 inch fences (a Vega and a Shop Fox) because I couldn't bear cutting down the original rails on the nice fences (I only paid a couple bucks for the two 30" fences used).

I am sick at the thought of cutting down the 3" x 3" solid steel rack-n-pinion rail on the slider. But I know it has to be done. My shop is 20' wide and the slider is about 14' wide with the outrigger on and the 60" fence. The fence rail is 60" wide and I will have to cut 20" off of it making the rail 40" wide so the fence can register out to 30". The front of the fence is 10" wide hence a 40" rail for a 30" cut.

I just need someone to hold my hand, wipe away my tears and reassure me everything will be OK while I am making the cut!

I had considered mating the PM65 to the slider to justify the 60" fence on the slider to also function as the fence for the PM65 but it just doesn't work when I try to lay everything out and join the two table saws together. I will be keeping the PM65 10" cabinet saw for dados and such then selling the PM71 12" cabinet saw. I have read that most slider owners also keep a cabinet saw around for things like dados... is this true?

[Kevin Jenness]

Clearly the answer is a bigger shop.:)

I would definitely keep one of the cabinet saws if possible.

Go ahead and cut the fence if you must. Keep the offcut in case you move - you can probably rejoin the sections with a plug.

Did you get the crosscut fence sorted?

[Michael Schuch]

I am moving kind of slow on the project. I just finished the mobile base for the saw so I can do some rearranging of my shop and make everything fit together... which is why I have come to the conclusion that I need to shorten the rip fence.

Once I have the saw and everything else in their new places I will start work on the outrigger fence. I found that Wixley makes a nice single axis DRO for table saw fences that will read in fractions and is very reasonably priced. I did not realize that Wixley made a two piece unit with the measuring head and display head separate which I think will work very well for my need and I will design the outrigger fence around the Wixley DRO.

Before I found the Wixley 2 piece DRO I was considering laminating several pieces of IPE together to make the fence so I could put the measuring scale at an angle and imbed a T track for the stops. I hadn't sold myself on this yet and I think the Wixley route will work better. Their website is not very easy to find stuff on but now that I found the 2 piece unit it has started my brain turning. My current thinking is to use the piece of aluminum extrusion I have and fabricate my own stops.

Good thought on saving the off cut for possible later use. I will probably stow the extra pieces inside the cabinet of the saw so they don't get lost. The fence rail is actually made up of 3 bars of steel about 3" tall and 1" thick bolted together. I can see rejoining the off cut pretty easily do to this construction. I have a hard time envisioning moving. When I bought the place 19 years ago I bought the 40' x 40' shop with a house and some other junk in front of it, never intending to move again (I know, famous last words!). The shop is split down the center so I have a 20' x 40' wood shop and a 20' x 40' machine shop.

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P.S. I VERY RARELY have a problem with keeping a machine, parting with them is the painful part. :) I will keep the 10" PM65 because it is more practical even through the 12" PM71 has much more sentimental value.

[Michael Schuch]

Progress on my saw is slow (as usual).

I built a mobile base for the saw:
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Evidently I didn't measure very well because the base was a VERY tight fit. When I put the saw into the base it was also way to tall. I was having some problems with my welder so the welds were kind of ugly.


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So I bought some angle iron and built a second base that I am much happier with. The 900lb rated casters were about $30 each and did not move well under the weight of the saw with 4 casters so I added 2 more casters. I moved the casters from the right side of the saw to the front and rear of the saw on the right side so I can wheel in a yet to be built blade storage cabinet. I had always planed on the casters being in the front and rear of the left hand side so I would ne be constantly tripping over them. The new stand holds the saw about 4 inches lower which seems to work well.

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The new stand does move around much easier.

[Michael Schuch]

The rip fence was way to wide. It was a 50" rip fence which stuck out 60 inches to the right of the blade because of the width of the fence itself.

So I hacked 14 inches off of the rip fence.
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After using the horizontal bandsaw to cut down the front fence rail I put in on the mill and milled the front of it so it looks nice and like a factory finished piece. The rear fence support I also chopped and I welded a plate over the end of it to make it look like a finished piece. I hade to drill and tap new holes for the auxiliary table supports and the front rail to rear fence support spacing rod. All of these were metric and I only had imperial taps so I had to order a set of metric taps. I wanted to use the factory hardware and mixing imperial hardware on a metric saw just seemed messy.

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I had a left over can of PPG Pit bull "Vista Green" spray paint left over from the Powermatic 71 rebuild (you can see the PM71 in the background of the above picture). It matches the Casidia green paint quite well in my opinion. I am quite happy about having a matching paint so I can clean up some other areas of the saw in time. I painted the end cap of the fence rear support to test the color in the picture above. I will strip that off and lay down a good primer before putting a finish coat of the paint on.

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[Michael Schuch]

I need to turn some steel pins down for mounting a fence in my lathe. But I need to finish wiring the VFD for my lathe before I can do this.

This Casadei saw does not have any miter or T slots in the sliding table. I am pretty sure this is something that I will want.

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I found two options for adding a T slot in the sliding table. The narrower track (5/8" over all width) on the left is a standard T slot width and it is a little recessed from the table top without any spacers under it. I was only able to find this T track in 48" lengths so I would have to use two of these to cover the entire length of the table.

The second option is the "miter" dimensioned T track. It sits a little proud of the table so I would have to mill the brackets a bit for it to sit flush (which should not be too difficult of a project). The width of this miter T track is not the same width as the "metric" miter slot in the fixed table which was disappointing. I am thinking of going with the narrower track because it will make mounting the aluminum portion of the sliding table easier, be easier to make flush with the table top via some shims and be easier to integrate with the aluminum portion of the sliding table.

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My thought is to move the mounting holes in the aluminum portion of the sliding table over 5/8" of an inch. I would then clamp the aluminum to the mounting brackets and run the aluminum through the blade to clean up the nasty edge and make the aluminum near zero clearance. I could easily mill the dado hole in the aluminum deeper but I don't really think I would need to. That ugly rough edge on there currently bothers me! The other option would be to cut 5/8" off the other side of the aluminum and use the existing mounting holes.

Opinions?

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P.S. does anyone know how to rotate these pictures in the posts so they appear with the correct orientation? My pictures post fine on other sites.

[Michael Schuch]

The rip fence was way to wide. It was a 50" rip fence which stuck out 60 inches to the right of the blade because of the width of the fence itself. I decided to cut it down so it would fit better in my shop.

So I hacked 14 inches off of the rip fence.
475601
After using the horizontal bandsaw to cut down the front fence rail I put in on the mill and milled the front of it so it looks nice and like a factory finished piece. The rear fence support I also chopped and I welded a plate over the end of it to make it look like a finished piece. I hade to drill and tap new holes for the auxiliary table supports and the front rail to rear fence support spacing rod. All of these were metric and I only had imperial taps so I had to order a set of metric taps. I wanted to use the factory hardware and mixing imperial hardware on a metric saw just seemed messy.

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I had a left over can of PPG Pit bull "Vista Green" spray paint left over from the Powermatic 71 rebuild (you can see the PM71 in the background of the above picture). It matches the Casadei green paint quite well in my opinion. I am quite happy about having a matching paint so I can clean up some other areas of the saw in time. I painted the end cap of the fence rear support to test the color in the picture above. I will strip that off and lay down a good primer before putting a finish coat of the paint on.

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[Tim Monkevich]

This is very cool to have stumbled on this thread as I am currently working on getting an ‘85 KS1400 up and running in my shop. I have similar woes in that I have the crosscut fence but none of the mounting hardware nor the stops. I may have to upgrade my account so I can see the pics of what you engineered. I ordered flip stops for a Grizzly slider and am hoping I can adapt those to the existing fence or worst case scenario wait until Grizzly has the matching fence back in stock and get one of those.

[Michael Schuch]

Hello Tim,

It would be nice to have a someone to compare notes with.

My current status is I have some steel rod to make some pegs to hold the fence in outrigger table holes but my lathe was acting up. Actually my South Bend 13" was squealing like a banshee. Luckily it was just the motor. I installed the new bearings in the motor last weekend and remounted the motor only to find the belts for the motor (in my lathe) are way too short which is what probably killed the bearings in the first place. So I have new belts a couple inches longer coming from Amazon which should be here on Thursday which will allow me to make some progress on the fence.

My current plan is to turn a couple pegs with a step in them so they don't fall through the holes and mill some flats in them for mounting the fence. I have a piece of aluminum extrusion for the fence but I might just laminate some Maple or Ipe for the fence instead of using the extrusion. I haven't quite decided and progress is going kind of slow due to other projects.

I do have a couple of very similar threads on some other well known forums oriented around rebuilding old machines. BUT if your main interest is in woodworking this is an excellent forum with a great group of very intelligent members who are great for bouncing ideas off of! The membership is definitely worth it to me and this is one of the few forums I appreciate enough to follow quite closely.

[andrew whicker]

Hi,

I'm looking at one these exact machines in my area... they keep reducing the price. The ad says it has over 50" of cross cut? Is that true?

Even though it's a "short stroke" slider that kind of cross cut solves my squaring issues. Did you find parts availability? How well built is the saw?


Thanks much!

[Jim Becker]

Hi,

I'm looking at one these exact machines in my area... they keep reducing the price. The ad says it has over 50" of cross cut? Is that true?

Even though it's a "short stroke" slider that kind of cross cut solves my squaring issues. Did you find parts availability? How well built is the saw?


Thanks much!
Short stroke has different values...some are shorter than others. :) I think I can crosscut about 54", give or take, on my SC3C with the wagon travel I have and it's a similar size to what the OP posted about