Hollowing/Steady rest question

[Ricc Havens]

What kind of steady rest do you guys use that doesn't get in the way of a laser or camera arm on the hollowing tool? I have a Jamieson captured set up and may move to an articulated system at a future date. Looking for options for a steady rest that won't get in the way of a camera or laser arm.



Thanks
Ricc

[Steve Eure]

Will be following this thread. I have an articulating system and I run into that dilemma all the time. I have a homemade steady rest that works well except for when hollowing. I have seen some that are somewhat V-shaped. That might be a solution if I can find the link to the one I saw.

[Kevin Jenness]

The Oneway bowl steady leaves the top unobstructed. Some people use them in pairs.

If the issue is with the height of the laser arm vs the steady frame height you could use a taller standard on the laser arm for clearance.

I have not used a steady rest for hollow forms, but I don't do really large ones and often work with green blanks and burls with voids that wouldn't play well with a steady. Do you often feel the need for one?

[Peter Blair]

Here is a link to the one I made specifically for this reason. I have since discovered it would have worked even better if I had made the slots for the sliding bars on the side towards the tail stock to allow me to get closer to the end of the hollow form. I now use it with smaller wheels. You can't see it in the photos but I made a block that fits up between the ways to center and locate the steady.

So sorry about the link I think this one works.

https://woodbowlsandthings.wordpress.com/2012/12/22/lathe-steady (https://wordpress.com/post/woodbowlsandthings.wordpress.com/178)

I used it again today and was reminded that if I was to redo it I would also have the wheel below the cutout right at center where the cutter meets the wood!

[Ricc Havens]

Here is a link to the one I made specifically for this reason. I have since discovered it would have worked even better if I had made the slots for the sliding bars on the side towards the tail stock to allow me to get closer to the end of the hollow form. I now use it with smaller wheels. You can't see it in the photos but I made a block that fits up between the ways to center and locate the steady.

https://wordpress.com/post/woodbowlsandthings.wordpress.com/178

Peter, the link requires a login so I can't access it.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I have not used a steady rest for hollow forms, but I don't do really large ones and often work with green blanks and burls with voids that wouldn't play well with a steady. Do you often feel the need for one?

I also have not used a steady for hollowing. I have a Monster articulating. It only has a small 3/8" cutter so not a lot of forces, I did go deep once for a lamp shade, won't make another. If you search for I made a lamp shade it should come up.

[Dueane Hicks]

I also use the Oneway bowl steady. I may try two of them for a bit more control on hollow forms.

[Peter Blair]

So sorry about that. I 'think' I have corrected it! Fingers crossed!

[Roger Chandler]

I use a Nichol’s designed 4 arm steady. The one arm that normally rests at the 10 o’clock position has an adjustable position so it can be moved out of the way for lasers, etc. I like it a lot, but do need to build another one for a larger lathe with 24” swing. When I got the steady rest from Jeff, I had an 18” swing lathe, sold it to buy a larger 22” swing lathe, so built up the base of the steady with wood to raise it, and it works well on the 22” swing, but for the 24” lathe, I need to make another.

I just purchased a welder back a few weeks ago, and making one should not be a problem, once I get the materials needed.

Edit: this thread prompted me to contact McMaster-Carr to purchase the 24" flange ring, and 1" square tubing to make the thing. Delivery on Monday! :eek::D

[Ricc Havens]

I also have not used a steady for hollowing. I have a Monster articulating. It only has a small 3/8" cutter so not a lot of forces, I did go deep once for a lamp shade, won't make another. If you search for I made a lamp shade it should come up.


I have the small Jamieson carbide cup cutter on his hollower. If I try to go past 8-9" I start to get chatter/vibration.

[Dwight Rutherford]

I have a Jamieson rig also. For hollowing deeper than 9”-10” I use a 1 1/4” boring bar. This eliminates the chatter.

[Richard Coers]

I have a Jamieson rig also. For hollowing deeper than 9”-10” I use a 1 1/4” boring bar. This eliminates the chatter.
Deeper than 9-10 without a steady rest? That's the discussion going on for those who said they don't use a steady rest. Personally I would turn 6" deep without a steady. It just makes hollowing so much faster with that stability.

[Dwight Rutherford]

Richard,
I was responding to the OP’s post #10 about getting chatter when hollowing deeper than 8”-9”.
I do use a steady when going deeper than 10”-12”.

[Peter Blair]

I'm the same Richard. Quick to set up so I use it for anything deeper than 6" as well.