protecting outdoor wood furniture

[joe webb]

Hi all,

I am planning on building sitting benches and a table for my backyard. Probably from framing lumber (e.g. 2x4).

I am looking for a finish that is easy to maintain. I have used exterior paint previously but they crack and peel after a couple of years. Scrapping the paint and repainting is a lots work. What are other options?
Look is secondary and I am not a big fan of paint as it covers the wood grain.

Typically, would cedar and redwood last much longer than fir? The cost difference is quite big.

I live in northern California. We have hot summers, but winters are mild, and humidity is low. Thus outdoor furniture will have lots of sun exposure and occasional rains.



Thanks much

[Terry Therneau]

There are two goals: protect it from decaying, and protect the look. For the former, you need to either use a decay resistant wood (cypress, redwood, cedar, ipe, white oak, etc) or frequent maintainance of the finish. Where it sits on the ground is particularly vunerable: many people use epoxy on the leg ends to keep them from wicking up. I myself voted for decay resistant wood. For the look: UV will eventually turn any wood to a uniform gray. Either accept it, or regularly renew a finish the absorbs the UV (it's a sacrificial absorber). Spar varnish is the classic for a sailboat, I've used Watco outdoor oil. But mostly I vote for letting them turn gray.

Terry

[Richard Coers]

New growth redwood only has a fraction of the decay resistance that old growth had. New growth redwood sapwood is almost like spruce for rot resistance. Only a few years before that sapwood rots. If you use white wood, SPF, it'll be lucky to last 3 years with ground contact. Black locust, white oak, catalpa, and osage orange are great domestic wood choices too.

[Kevin Jenness]

Spar varnish is very high maintenance. Some people report good results with Cetol finishes which have good uv protection but are said to be easily renewed. Oil finishes are easily reapplied but provide less protection. No finish will protect framing lumber with ground contact very long.

[Andrew Seemann]

New growth redwood only has a fraction of the decay resistance that old growth had. New growth redwood sapwood is almost like spruce for rot resistance. Only a few years before that sapwood rots. If you use white wood, SPF, it'll be lucky to last 3 years with ground contact. Black locust, white oak, catalpa, and osage orange are great domestic wood choices too.

I'd add cedar also to the list of woods that are less rot resistant than their reputations. Cedar is really good at shedding water, but if it stays wet it rots nearly as fast as most soft woods.

[Mel Fulks]

Okay, since there is a request …. I try again ,even though great old truth….gets little traction compared to new stuff. Use any kind of wood or plywood. Use
Titebond 2 to glue on light canvas. Then paint it with primer and a good exterior paint, will last for years. Use the “bark side “ of wood as the
top surface.

[derek labian]

Spar varnish is very high maintenance.

Will you elaborate on this?

[John TenEyck]

There is only one way to avoid maintenance with outdoor wood furniture. No, actually, there is no way to avoid it. You can use rot resistant wood and just let it turn gray. If you are lucky it won't get black mold; if it does you will have to clean it regularly. If you paint it, stain it, or worst of all put clear coat on it you will be in for continual maintenance. Of those three option, stain requires the least maintenance. Clean it and apply a new coat of stain every year or so. Paint is second best but still requires maintenance every few years, Mel's approach excepted. Clear coat requires maintenance every year to guard against blistering or cracks in the finish that lets water get underneath and, when it inevitably does, it's a real PITA to strip it off and redo it.

The best option I've found is to keep covers over my clear coated black locust bench and Sapele table when I'm not using them. Zero maintenance for the 3 or 4 years since I started doing that.

John

[mark mcfarlane]

Hi all,

I am planning on building sitting benches and a table for my backyard. Probably from framing lumber (e.g. 2x4).

...Thanks much

Joe, if you don't want to or can't spend for Redwood, Cedar, White oak, and other suggestions, please at least consider treated SPF (spruce/fir/pine), such as used for decking material. Normal untreated construction 2*4's are most likely going to cup and twist in a couple months, making your seats and table top problematic. Even when used indoors we put blocking between SPF studs in Texas to help keep them straight.

New growth framing lumber is cut very wet and its going to move as it drys, even if you coat it well.

Considering the amount of time you will spend building and finished this furniture, I would not want to make it from construction 2*4s. It's kind of like painting with cheap paint: you spend a day prepping walls, and you save $30 today, but the first time you wash a wall you're in trouble, and you end up needing to repaint in 5 years.

[Edward Weber]

Redwood in Northern CA is not that expensive compared to construction lumber these days. IMO it's well worth the price. The sun is your biggest enemy, I would be sure to get a preservative with some UV inhibitors. I would not use any type of pressure treated wood for the simple fact that it likes to split/splinter, not conducive for seating. I don't know your located but you can try
Berco Redwood
https://www.bercoredwood.com/
You can also look at TWP stain
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-wood-stains?gclid=CjwKCAiAm7OMBhAQEiwArvGi3Ly6LCKqQ2YOq GMt2q2Lm02MDDLmvafxUyMHNNaNlQKX8o6f55BM6BoC3dQQAvD _BwE

Good luck

[mark mcfarlane]

... I would not use any type of pressure treated wood for the simple fact that it likes to split/splinter, not conducive for seating.

Redwood is certainly preferable but in Texas we have had pressure treated wood decks and I made built-in deck seating from 2*6's that held up well for 15-20 years with no finish ever applied. Lots off sun, lots of rain, a light freeze every few years :). It can split or twist and there is the occasional board to replace.

If you do use pressure treated wood then use decking screws, not nails, and don't drive them too far below the wood surface. Then it is easy to pull out a board and replace it. If you drive the screws too deep the wood will swell over the screw head and they become much harder to remove. Use good screws, not cheap ones, and you'll have an easily repairable table or seat.

Again, if you can afford Redwood, that is probably a much better choice in your area.

[Frank Pratt]

Okay, since there is a request …. I try again ,even though great old truth….gets little traction compared to new stuff. Use any kind of wood or plywood. Use
Titebond 2 to glue on light canvas. Then paint it with primer and a good exterior paint, will last for years. Use the “bark side “ of wood as the
top surface.

That may be okay for a door, or other large flat surface, but would be extremely difficult to implement on something like a bench, besides being horrifically ugly. And is won't show the grain all that well, which is what the OP desires.

[Mel Fulks]

That may be okay for a door, or other large flat surface, but would be extremely difficult to implement on something like a bench, besides being horrifically ugly. And is won't show the grain all that well, which is what the OP desires.

Not difficult, the cloth can be lapped. And the lap will be much thinner than that of aluminum siding. Framing wood is usually not fit to
be uncovered….but yeah people have gotten used to seeing it. And it ain’t like it’s gonna be around for a long time !

[Kevin Jenness]

Will you elaborate on this?

What John said, "Clear coat requires maintenance every year to guard against blistering or cracks in the finish that lets water get underneath and, when it inevitably does, it's a real PITA to strip it off and redo it."

[joe webb]

Thank you everyone for all these very valuable tips. I watch lots of YouTube videos and they almost never talk about the maintenance part.

So it sounds like paint is the more durable option and also easier to strip and recoat.
At my local big orange store, a 2x4x8 fir is $4 while redwood is $18. I wasn't sure how much longer redwood would last.

I was also wondering if using a product like Thompson Water Sealer would help slow down the impact of humidity.

Thank you again

[John TenEyck]

LOL, everyone on YouTube is an expert. Everything is easy and everything they say comes from hours, days, or weeks, but almost never years, of experience. Thank goodness our medical professionals don't get their training via YouTube. Today, wannabe doctors, we're going to do open heart surgery. Piece of cake.

If you decide to use paint I would just use the fir. If you keep up with the maintenance it will last a long time. If you would rather avoid maintenance altogether beyond occasional cleaning go with the redwood or even PT. Both will last a really long time.

John

[joe webb]

LOL, everyone on YouTube is an expert. Everything is easy and everything they say comes from hours, days, or weeks, but almost never years, of experience. Thank goodness our medical professionals don't get their training via YouTube. Today, wannabe doctors, we're going to do open heart surgery. Piece of cake.

If you decide to use paint I would just use the fir. If you keep up with the maintenance it will last a long time. If you would rather avoid maintenance altogether beyond occasional cleaning go with the redwood or even PT. Both will last a really long time.

John

Thanks for the suggestion John.

Typically, I learn the basics on YouTube and seek more advance tips in forums like this one. Video creators are from all levels. It ranges from professional woodworkers with 30+ years experience to home owners showing off their first projects. Unfortunately, most videos are focused on the "making" part and skim over the rest. By making, I mean the milling, cutting, joinery, assembly, etc. Sanding and finishing are considered as boring thus barely addressed in the videos although that is super important to achieve a good appearance. I also realized they don't show the "hiccups". Everything always line up perfectly on the first assembly.

I was hoping to achieve this kind of look, but I wasn't sure how difficult is it to maintain over the long run. That said, ease of maintenance is more important me than look.

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/620300548671664255/

[Edward Weber]

Thank you everyone for all these very valuable tips. I watch lots of YouTube videos and they almost never talk about the maintenance part.

So it sounds like paint is the more durable option and also easier to strip and recoat.
At my local big orange store, a 2x4x8 fir is $4 while redwood is $18. I wasn't sure how much longer redwood would last.

I was also wondering if using a product like Thompson Water Sealer would help slow down the impact of humidity.

Thank you again


I would advise against buying Redwood at a big box store
Example from my redwood supplier

2x4x8' Pressure Treated FIR Rails
$6.75 ea
2x4x8' PREMIUM Redwood Rails
$10.78 ea

[John TenEyck]

Thanks for the suggestion John.

Typically, I learn the basics on YouTube and seek more advance tips in forums like this one. Video creators are from all levels. It ranges from professional woodworkers with 30+ years experience to home owners showing off their first projects. Unfortunately, most videos are focused on the "making" part and skim over the rest. By making, I mean the milling, cutting, joinery, assembly, etc. Sanding and finishing are considered as boring thus barely addressed in the videos although that is super important to achieve a good appearance. I also realized they don't show the "hiccups". Everything always line up perfectly on the first assembly.

I was hoping to achieve this kind of look, but I wasn't sure how difficult is it to maintain over the long run. That said, ease of maintenance is more important me than look.

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/620300548671664255/


I'm not sure but it looks like there is clearcoat on the benches. We've been through all that entails to keep looking good - unless you keep them covered. If you put covers over them when you aren't using them clearcoat will last for many years. The sun (UV) is the enemy. Eliminate the sun and you've stopped 90% of what can go wrong. Keep the feet dry, too, and you've taken care of most potential routes for degrade.

If you plan to use construction lumber be aware that it's no better than 19% moisture content when it leaves the factory. You might see KD19 stamped on it. It might be lower when you buy it but it likely won't be completely air dried which is the best option for outdoor furniture. So if you go that route put it in a shed or open garage until it equalizes with the environment before you finish it. l

John

[Kevin Jenness]

John, you've used Cetol on doors, haven't you? Any reason not to use it on outdoor furniture?

[Scott T Smith]

John, you've used Cetol on door, haven't you? Any reason not to use it on outdoor furniture?

Sikkens Cetol is now sold in the USA as the PPG Prolux brand.

[Kevin Jenness]

Typically, I learn the basics on YouTube and seek more advance tips in forums like this one. Video creators are from all levels. It ranges from professional woodworkers with 30+ years experience to home owners showing off their first projects.

That can work if you can tell the two groups apart. "It ain't what you don't know that can hurt you, it's what you think you know that ain't so."

[John TenEyck]

John, you've used Cetol on doors, haven't you? Any reason not to use it on outdoor furniture?

Hi Kevin. Yes, I've used Cetol Door and Window finish on exterior doors and it's great for that application. I doubt it would do nearly as well on outdoor furniture however. It's a little soft and easily scratched. And horizontal applications are far worse than vertical. I'm not sure which Cetol product would be best for a furniture application. For the outdoor bench I built earlier this year I chose a product called "One Time", which is a UV reactive 100% solids product. I haven't seen the bench since I sold it but the test patch I used it on on my Ipe' deck is looking good so far. If it makes it through the Winter w/o damage I'll call it the best product yet for my deck.

John

[Mark Rainey]

Made several outdoor chairs out of 100% heartwood cherry ( which some say is weather resistant ) Used General Finishes outdoor oil. After application they look beautiful. After a couple months of summer sun, they faded really fast. I have reapplied the oil a couple of times to the chairs with the northern exposure. It helps, but at a certain point I will probably let them go grey. My wife won't let me cover them. The sun is tough on outdoor wood furniture.

[Alan Lightstone]

LOL, everyone on YouTube is an expert. Everything is easy and everything they say comes from hours, days, or weeks, but almost never years, of experience. Thank goodness our medical professionals don't get their training via YouTube. Today, wannabe doctors, we're going to do open heart surgery. Piece of cake.

John
Yeah, but patients get their information from Dr. Google. Sigh...:eek:

[Bryan Hall]

Hi all,

I am planning on building sitting benches and a table for my backyard. Probably from framing lumber (e.g. 2x4).

I am looking for a finish that is easy to maintain. I have used exterior paint previously but they crack and peel after a couple of years. Scrapping the paint and repainting is a lots work. What are other options?
Look is secondary and I am not a big fan of paint as it covers the wood grain.

Typically, would cedar and redwood last much longer than fir? The cost difference is quite big.

I live in northern California. We have hot summers, but winters are mild, and humidity is low. Thus outdoor furniture will have lots of sun exposure and occasional rains.



Thanks much

I would not use fir.

Osmo outdoor coating is easy to maintain and looks nice on cedar or redwood.

[Joe Stoutenburgh]

I have had good luck with Cabot Australian Timber Oil which I have used on my outdoor planters.
It provides good protection in wet conditions. In my experience it's more durable than spar varnish.
I wish I had used it on my deck when it was new. A friend used it on top of his boat dock and seems happy with it.
Follow directions and don't over-apply so that it puddles. Main down side is slow dry time. Needs 1-2 days between coats.
I would do at least 3 coats initially and renew every 2-3 years with 1-2 coats.
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