Doug Shepard
01-15-2006, 11:24 AM
Well here's more PITA questions regarding the Franken-profile I want to put on a jewelry box till section.
Here's the profile
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=27271&d=1134177853
Here's the lid shape
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=27272&d=1134177874
Here's the joinery I want to use to connect up the pieces.
29634
I think I've got a Matching Franken-jig idea worked out. Thinking I really needed a way to shoot the miters after cutting them on the BS, and also needing a way to put the spline slots in the ends, I've come up with this combo arrangement. I can shoot the miters, then attach some small fence pieces with end-stops onto the slanted face and use the laminate trimmer and MF plunge base to cut the slots. The halves of the jig will clamp together with threaded rod and threaded inserts with some small registration pins for to align everything.
This is what I've got for the 45's. Something similar for the front angles will also need to be done.
I'm looking for some opinions as to whether I should be able to cut the profile through this 9" stack on the MM16 (I wont be using the carbide blade) and have it come out absolutely perpendicular to the top face. Or should I pattern route the profile through each layer and then glue it up?? I doesn't really matter how accurately I can get the face to 45 degress if the profile piece isn't running absolutely vertical through the block.
29635
29636
29637
29638
Here's the profile
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=27271&d=1134177853
Here's the lid shape
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=27272&d=1134177874
Here's the joinery I want to use to connect up the pieces.
29634
I think I've got a Matching Franken-jig idea worked out. Thinking I really needed a way to shoot the miters after cutting them on the BS, and also needing a way to put the spline slots in the ends, I've come up with this combo arrangement. I can shoot the miters, then attach some small fence pieces with end-stops onto the slanted face and use the laminate trimmer and MF plunge base to cut the slots. The halves of the jig will clamp together with threaded rod and threaded inserts with some small registration pins for to align everything.
This is what I've got for the 45's. Something similar for the front angles will also need to be done.
I'm looking for some opinions as to whether I should be able to cut the profile through this 9" stack on the MM16 (I wont be using the carbide blade) and have it come out absolutely perpendicular to the top face. Or should I pattern route the profile through each layer and then glue it up?? I doesn't really matter how accurately I can get the face to 45 degress if the profile piece isn't running absolutely vertical through the block.
29635
29636
29637
29638