Suggest How to Install a Door Trim Extension

[Mike Shields]

I need to build out a trim piece to allow for a storm door install. In the attached picture of an existing install, there is a 2X4 installed on top of the original trim to allow the storm door frame to set in-line with the top casing.

The trim extension will be 4 1/16" deep. I'm drawing a blank on the best way to attach this. My longest wood screws are 3", so a countersink would have to be really deep. Toeing in nails may very well split the wood.

Any suggestions?

TIA
467926

[Phillip Mitchell]

Not quite sure I understand the words in relation to the photo, but if there is enough access room in the existing jamb (assuming it’s staying in place and you’re just adding a 4 1/16” jamb extension) you could use biscuits. Or you could rip them to fit tight with a back bevel on the edge that mates against existing jamb and shim/ fasten the jamb in place through the face of the jamb extension and caulk and paint any tiny gap that may open up through the year.

Id be tempted to not try to match the same plane as the existing jamb with the extension jamb and instead create a reveal (~1/4”) so when things don’t line up 100% perfectly in relation to existing jamb it will disappear.

[John TenEyck]

They make trim screws at least 6" long. Biscuits for registration, trim screws to secure.

John

[Michael Schuch]

I don't completely understand what the desired end result is or what all is trying to be accomplished either. What comes to mind though is pocket screws with the holes then filled with the pocket hole plugs then painted. If you don't have a pocket hole jig this project seems like a really good excuse to buy one. The Kreg pocket hole screws are kind of self taping in wood, the points drill through the wood instead of splitting the wood apart like a regular screw would.

[Mark Bolton]

When Ive had to install long extension jambs I just counter bore (drill bit or forstner bit) and then run a clearance hole (screw shank diameter) and run a long driver bit then plug the hole if needed if its not burred behind another piece of trim. With a long driver (6") you can reach way down. You can get long bits or bell hanger bits at most home centers now (1/8" diameter for the clearance hole) and a regular drill bit or forstner to get the head of your screw down within reach of whatever screw you plan to use.

[Mark Bolton]

P.S., whatever you do make sure your screw doesnt go so deep in the existing jamb to roach the IGU if its similar to your photo. I did a french door install a long while back that haunts me to this day. Nailing off the brickmold I only had gun nails that were very close to making me nervous about hitting the IGU. Backed the depth setting way off thinking I'd be close.. very last nail, helper was already caulking the nail holes, and *snap*.. the last nail in the job barely broke deep enough and cracked the IGU.

Haunts me to this very day.

[Mike Shields]

The original trim piece sits on top of the window. In order to get the storm door installed, a 2X4 trim extension was added to the original trim piece, you can see the added piece as it's not the same width as the original trim piece. The original trim piece did not come out to the top of the door casing to allow the door frame to be mounted, and thus the trim piece was added.