New receptacle question

[Perry Hilbert Jr]

I have a large chest freezer (14 cu ft) in an awkward place in the basement. I would like to move it about 8 feet and just run a new line and receptacle off the old one. All of my electrical wiring books were lost 6 years ago. So I checked on line and every "how to" indicates that a pigtail must be installed before both the old and new receptacles are connected. I could sear that in the past, I saw an instruction that just hooked the new wires to the terminals on the sides of the receptacle. I will do what all the advice says, but still wonder why is the pigtail necessary. Seems like a lot of extra wires and wire nuts. etc. in the receptacle box.

Can anyone explain why it is done that way instead of attaching the new wires to the receptacle?

[Wade Lippman]

I did exactly the same thing two months ago, only it was an upright freezer. Since the old outlet was no long accessible, I took it out and used it as a junction box. Has I wanted to keep it, I would have attached the new wires directly to the outlet. I am looking forward to hearing why that is not acceptable.

[Jim Becker]

I use pigtails when a box can support the extra wire. There are multiple reasons it's a better solution than daisy-chaining off an outlet. But sometimes it's most practical to use the alternative screws on a receptacle...above all you really need to make sure that things are fastened securely and correctly whichever method you use. And Wade makes a good point...if the original outlet isn't needed, just use the box as a junction and eliminate the outlet. A blank cover closes things up.

[Doug Colombo]

+1 tie it to the outlet - this is exactly how houses are wired. The only time a pig tail might be needed is if both sets of screws were in use. And agree with both Wade and Jim that if old plug is not needed, it is perfectly acceptable to remove it and turn the box into a junction box with a solid cover.

[Tom M King]

I don't use pigtails unless there's some oddball reason why they're needed.

[Jim Koepke]

When doing the wiring in my greenhouse the person helping me told me it was required by code. He may have been wrong.

Asking Dr. Google > why pigtail outlets < this came back:


There are two reasons for this. First, connecting the wires leading to downstream outlets with wire connectors creates a more secure connection. And second, it's easier to press the outlet back into the box if fewer of its screws are connected to wires.

With expansion and contraction from heat it is possible for a screw to come loose.

jtk

[Rod Sheridan]

Where I live code requires pigtailing for new work.

One of the arguments for pigtailing was to reduce the incidence of open neutrals in multi-wire and three phase circuits.

Regards, Rod.

[Andrew Seemann]

I've never liked chaining off outlets unless absolutely necessary like where there isn't enough volume to legally add pigtails to the box. For anything new, I always allow for pigtails in the wire volume count and I
normally add room for a few extra wires. I have a particular dislike of boxes crammed to or above the volume limit.

If I was going to chain off an outlet, the only type I would feel comfortable using are those ones where the wire goes in the back and is clamped internally by the side screw. I definitely would not want to use fish hooks under the side screws of those cheap $0.79 outlets from the Big Box to feed something downstream. Those screws always seem like they are about to strip out.

[Perry Hilbert Jr]

Thanks every one. I discussed the situation with the Mrs. She responded that since I have wanted to get two new lines back to service my work shop, I should just go ahead and call an electrician. I have installed new lines to new breakers in boxes, even 240 lines for baseboard heat, but I had a color coded book that showed it dead simple for me to follow. As it was, I was not all that comfortable doing it and I double and triple checked everything. This makes it easy. Besides it will be easier for the electrician to run off the main to a second breaker box in the shop.

[Bill Dufour]

I no longer use wire nuts, I use Wagos instead.
Color coded wiring book? Wiring only has 3 or maybe four colors. White, green or bare, and any other color.
Bill D

[George Yetka]

I here that wiring through the switch is not ideal because if the outlet goes bad you lose both. I wouldnt think this is a problem as I would change it anyway and have plenty of spares in the house. I guess the idea is if its being done for someone who isnt comfortable with electric.

[Jim Becker]

I no longer use wire nuts, I use Wagos instead.
Color coded wiring book? Wiring only has 3 or maybe four colors. White, green or bare, and any other color.
Bill D

Little stick figures to indicate motion, Bill... :D

Seriously, there are quite a few books available that have representative wiring diagrams which emphasize correct connections via color...and yes, those colors are typically the same as the wire that would normally be used for the geography the book is marketed to. (North America's normal colors may not be the same as in other geographies) These books are very helpful to folks who want to DIY simple to moderate things and feel comfortable doing so.

[Frank Pratt]

I did exactly the same thing two months ago, only it was an upright freezer. Since the old outlet was no long accessible, I took it out and used it as a junction box. Has I wanted to keep it, I would have attached the new wires directly to the outlet. I am looking forward to hearing why that is not acceptable.

What is not acceptable is to have a junction box that is inaccessible.

[Ole Anderson]

Either way is fine, including the suggestion to remove the receptacle from the original box and just turn it into a junction box (if by doing so you don't violate the required receptacle spacing). My bigger concern is that you seem to lack a basic understanding, or more likely the confidence to do even the simplest wiring. You can do it! You have done it before. White to white (silver terminals) black to black (brass terminals) and all grounds pigtailed to the green terminal and to the box if it steel. A little plug in tester is your friend. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-Outlet-Tester-with-GFCI-OTG-102R/206029151
https://images.thdstatic.com/productImages/ae9d3002-2282-48a6-9cfd-1e3a0e6df27a/svn/commercial-electric-specialty-meters-otg-102r-64_400.jpg

[Thomas McCurnin]

if the Romex or 12ga wire in the old box is directly connected to a receptacle, then I would not stack the new 12 ga wire on top of the old wires in the receptacle and torque down the screws for two reasons: (1) You're essentially using the receptacle as large un-insulated wire nut; (2) I'm not sure the screw in the receptacle will back off enough to allow two sets of 12ga wire underneath it. It is designed to accommodate only one set of wires, not two.

Better to add a set of the short 3" pig tails to the connection for the old receptacle connected by wire nuts. Then make the connection for the new Romex or 12 ga wire to those wire nuts. The connection is more secure and insulated.

[Ron Citerone]

It is my understanding that a freezer is best wired on a dedicated cirquit. I would think pigtailing and turning the existing box into a junction box eliminates the chance of someone plugging in another device and flipping the breaker leaving your freezer without electricity or shortening freezer motor life. BTW, I am not an electrician but have all my window units, refrigerators and freezers on dedicated circuits.

[Ole Anderson]

if the Romex or 12ga wire in the old box is directly connected to a receptacle, then I would not stack the new 12 ga wire on top of the old wires in the receptacle and torque down the screws for two reasons: (1) You're essentially using the receptacle as large un-insulated wire nut; (2) I'm not sure the screw in the receptacle will back off enough to allow two sets of 12ga wire underneath it. It is designed to accommodate only one set of wires, not two.

Better to add a set of the short 3" pig tails to the connection for the old receptacle connected by wire nuts. Then make the connection for the new Romex or 12 ga wire to those wire nuts. The connection is more secure and insulated.
Correct, never try to get two wires under a receptacle screw, even 14 gauge although with the clamp style back connectors you probably could. But it is safe to put one wire under each screw shepherds hook style and you will see the two screws are electrically connected with a break-away tab. I hate wiring 12 ga stuff. Some folks give two wraps of electrical tape around the screws if using a steel electrical box. And always tighten any unused screws.

[Bill Dufour]

I saw some quality Leventon receptacles at Habitat. New in the box for cheap. I looked and immediately knew why they were there. The buyer would have to buy a new pigtail connector assembly for each one, around $3 each to use them. They have no way to connect the wiring except a snap on custom connector. I have no idea if that connector is still being made or not.
Bill D

[Jim Koepke]

if the Romex or 12ga wire in the old box is directly connected to a receptacle, then I would not stack the new 12 ga wire on top of the old wires in the receptacle and torque down the screws for two reasons: (1) You're essentially using the receptacle as large un-insulated wire nut; (2) I'm not sure the screw in the receptacle will back off enough to allow two sets of 12ga wire underneath it. It is designed to accommodate only one set of wires, not two.

Better to add a set of the short 3" pig tails to the connection for the old receptacle connected by wire nuts. Then make the connection for the new Romex or 12 ga wire to those wire nuts. The connection is more secure and insulated.

The reason for not having two wires under one screw is it is easy for the wires to be placed with one crossing the other. This can cause an eventual failure of one or both of the wires.

Heating and cooling cycles can also increase the chances of the binding screws becoming loose.

Some junctions are made with multiple washers to separate the wires for stacking. These are usually for use in low power circuits.

jtk

[Roger Feeley]

What is not acceptable is to have a junction box that is inaccessible.
I was also taught that any junction must be accessible. Recently I saw some kind of splice kit that you can seal up. I figure that’s for the pros. I’ll keep making my connections like my father-in-law taught me.

[Frank Pratt]

I was also taught that any junction must be accessible. Recently I saw some kind of splice kit that you can seal up. I figure that’s for the pros. I’ll keep making my connections like my father-in-law taught me.

Code varies by jurisdiction, but here (Alberta), about the only place a splice can be concealed is an underground splice that's been installed to correct a fault.