Powermatic PM2000 caster failure

[Michael C Dean]

Doing maintenance on my PM2000 table saw today and found the polyurethane (I assume) tires on the plastic body casters under the machine have failed. Four of four just crumbled.

It wasn't until I blew out under the machine, and had tire bits and pieces come out, that I knew of the failure. I'd have to look up to see when I bought the machine, but I know it was either the first or second year the PM2000 was out, so maybe 15 years ago or so.

While I don't often move the machine, it would be nice if I could. Does anyone know:

1) a safe way to tilt this beast enough to replace the caster wheels?

2) what size these are, so I can buy non-PM replacements before dismounting the old ones? This would avoid two tilting sessions.

3) has someone else seen this, and have a replacement wheel source identified?

I'm thinking cast iron or steel wheels as they will handle the weight and not self destruct over time. Not as smooth rolling, but that's not a big deal.

A word on the saw itself. Really great - this is the first issue of any kind, and I use it a lot.

[Michael Roland]

My PM2000 casters failed the same years ago so I don't recall the exact details but here is what I remember.

1. I removed the fence and strapped mine to a appliance dolly/hand-truck. I removed the fence, blade guard, etc. I had two friends come over and using the dolly we tilted the saw back so it was laying on the dolly.

2. I don't recall the size but I purchased four post/stem casters. They had red or orange wheels and were weight rated so the the four would handle the weight of the saw. I believe they were 4 or 5 inch casters.

3. If you search the web you will find others have had the same issue. I think I picked up my replacement casters at the local Woodcraft store. The online Powermatic store shows a replacement set of four in stock for ~$58.

After I replaced my casters the saw stood about 3/16 taller. When I fully retracted the casters the saw was still just barely off the floor. For the sake of time I just cut two thin strips of HDPE and set them under the cast iron base edge for the saw to rest on. I only need to move my saw a couple of times a year so was not a big deal to me.

I've since sold the PM2000 and moved to another saw.

[Kevin Jenness]

For jobs like that I use a chainfall hooked to an eyebolt screwed into a carrying beam in my ceiling and a chain or sling around the machine. Adjust the chainfall with a bit of slack so you can tip the saw just beyond the balance point, then let it down to a convenient height and block under it for security. The base will want to slide sideways as you let it down. You need to be sure of a solid anchor point to do this.

I have numerous machines and carts on polyurethane wheels. The only failure I have had was some hard plastic wheels on a secondhand HTC mobile base. Metal wheels might be a bit harsh on your floor- I like a slight bit of cushion.

[Paul Haus]

If you have a chance, can you access a engine hoist? I've used one before to lift some tools. As Kevin noted, I also have access to a chainfall and a heavy beam in the basement. I just made a new mobile base for my table saw and lifted it off the old one and put it onto the new one. I moved my saw into the basement shop using an appliance dolly so that's also an option. Big thing there would be to secure the motor so it doesn't go flopping around as you tip it.

[Dave VanDewerker]

When the wheels failed on my TS mobile base, I used a pry bar to lever up an inch one side at a time, put blocks at both ends on each side as I went. Really easy and quick. I did this three times around to get it 3 inches off the ground and changed out all four at the same time.

[John Lifer]

You CAN get to these without turning the table saw over. It Ain't easy, but I've changed three of my four. (other one is probably toast by now) I actually used a caster wheel I got elsewhere on one of these, but Powermatic sells replacements. Remove the black door. Lifts off easy if you haven't removed it before. Tilt the motor out of the way as much as you can. Remove the inside hose. Then you can get inside and unscrew the floor. It will come out pretty easy. You can then see the casters and chain drive. It is easier if you lift and put a 1x under the machine. Lift and put one on each side to make level and not tippy. If I remember correctly, I was able to remove with socket or maybe end wrench. Do one at a time and clean the sprockets and chain and grease a bit. Raise and lower to insure it works before you put floor back in.
I only move mine once in great while now, but I do notice that it doesn't move up at same rate, one side is slightly lower. As this is second hand machine, I'm guessing the gears weren't times evenly when chain was installed. But I think I'd have to turn over to get correct and I'm too lazy for that.

[Robert Hayward]

I move my PM2000 a lot in my tiny shop. This was my solution to the caster problem. I also never liked the amount of turns on the handwheel it took to raise and lower the saw. The picture is of when I was putting the saw on the new base. The base has four 5" total locking swivel casters. The mobile base has 1/2" of clearance under it and the steel is 1/4" thick. So my saw table raised up 3/4" with this base. Sure is nice moving the saw around with one hand, in any lateral direction.

[Derek Arita]

Same thing happened to me...bummer. Rather than looking forward to having this happen again in the future with replacement wheels, I replaced the wheels with a Shop Fox mobile base with steel wheels. Yes it's a bit taller, but I know if I ever have to move it again, the tires won't crumble.

[Charles Coolidge]

Incredible, these JUNK caster wheels were failing when these saws first came out. I guess PM is too cheap to fix the issue. We put my brother's PM2000 on a different mobile base.