Sorting out a super surfacer

[Brian Holcombe]

I recently purchased a Marunaka ‘New’ Royal 10 super surfacer. The machine was modified to run on single phase with a static converter, I decided to remove the static converter setup and replace the controls with modern stuff.

A static converter kills HP which will be much needed as I will use this setup with much wider boards than the previous owner did.

The motor is an 8 lead Fuji motor and the wiring diagram for the machine had not been particularly helpful. The original wiring is something I took photos of, but wasn’t sure how to go removing the static converter. I took the motor to a shop and had it rewound, but they did not wind it to be a 9 lead motor, instead they duplicated the original arrangement and have some far not provided any info on how to hook it up. One of the guys are going to stop by my shop and have a look but they aren’t able to provide a wiring setup. Beyond frustrated by that but still trying to have this function without pressing them to rewind it again.

I replaced the motor controls (thanks, Malcolm!) with a modern setup.

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This was what was originally in the peckerhead.

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Here is the original wiring diagram, Mark Hennebury was able to source another and it looks pretty much the same, none of the wire labels correspond.

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Any guidance would be appreciated.

[Jeff Bartley]

I wish I could help Brian but I’ll sure be along to see what you do with this machine!

But if the motor shop knew how to wind it they should be able to tell you how to hook it up I would think.

Failing that you could try reaching out to someone in Japan with a similar machine.

More pictures please!

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks, Jeff! I spoke to them yesterday and apparently winding a motor does not provide one with any insight on how to wire it up. I found that info amazing, especially given that the goal of rewinding it was just that.

[Jeff Bartley]

That sure is amazing, kind of defies all logic that they wouldn’t understand how to hook it up. Did they just copy the original winding without any thought whatsoever?
I can ask a friend down here, he’s the best machine guy I know. He’d love to see the modifications you’ve made to your mortisers!

[Malcolm McLeod]

If you have a multi-meter, it should be relatively straightforward to ID the wires for each winding pair:

put the meter in 'resistance mode';
pick 1 wire and clip a meter lead to it;
test each of the other wires -

1 should show resistance (so that is your 'pair')
all others should read 'open'


tape this pair together and push them aside
repeat the process until you have the 4 pairs (for 8-lead motor).


From here I'm not sure what to tell you. I've picked up a lot over the years, but generally relied on electricians to handle work inside the peckerhead - - and they on the wiring diagrams and OEM numbers on the leads. I have done trouble-shooting on motors that had very, very small lead numbers (2-3pt font) - - I swore they were not labeled until I got a good light and magnifier. Are you sure yours are not labeled?

If they are in fact not labeled, I'd be a bit put out with the motor shop! For me at least it would be a crap shoot trying to get the phasing right w/o them.

(Feel free to email the pics, if I can help.)

ETA - I had to go confirm, but all 3-phase motors I've worked with had 9 leads. ...Not sure what to make of your motor in light of this??

[Brian Holcombe]

Thank you, Malcolm, much appreciated!

Sounds good, I’ll set aside the pairs as you described. The wires are labeled as the were originally but no insights provided beyond that. The original wiring diagram isn’t helpful either.

I made the motor shop aware of my concerns, so they are arriving Monday afternoon to help sort it out. I won’t apply power to it until they give the OK.

I’ve made the occasional bone-head decision myself, so I’m willing to let them resolve theirs but don’t want to spend a huge amount of time doing so.

[Michael Schuch]

Cool machine. I had to watch a youtube to see what it does... very cool!

There should have been 3 leads between the static phase converter and the motor (this does appear to be the case in the photo of the motor wiring you are showing). You should be able to replace those 3 leads with 3 power leads from a 3 phase supply, or the 3 power leads from a VFD. I would recommend just hooking the motor up and getting it spinning on what ever you are using for a 3 phase supply without worrying about the controls on the rest of the machine. Once you have the motor turning properly I would only then worry about incorporating the controls from the rest of the machine. Since a static phase convertor was used it most certainly would have been wired in the 220v configuration.

What are you using to supply the machine with 3 phase power?

Is the motor a standard frame size motor?

[Bobby Robbinett]

Do you have 3 phase power or an RPC? Either way, you don’t necessarily need all of the electronics if you don’t want them. I would take the motor back to the electric motor shop and have them rewire it for 3 leads. They can and should be able to do this. Then just buy a 220v 50amp (or what ever amperage is necessary) on/off switch. The three leads coming out of the motor will go to the 3 load ports on the switch and the 3 incoming 3ph wires will go to the line side of the switch. Then connect your grounds and you are in business.

Yes, a magnetic starter with all the trimmings would be better. But this will get you up and running. You might have to fork over some extra cash to the electric motor shop but it would be worth it to have them rewire it with 3 leads instead of 8.

[Brian Holcombe]

Cool machine. I had to watch a youtube to see what it does... very cool!

There should have been 3 leads between the static phase converter and the motor (this does appear to be the case in the photo of the motor wiring you are showing). You should be able to replace those 3 leads with 3 power leads from a 3 phase supply, or the 3 power leads from a VFD. I would recommend just hooking the motor up and getting it spinning on what ever you are using for a 3 phase supply without worrying about the controls on the rest of the machine. Once you have the motor turning properly I would only then worry about incorporating the controls from the rest of the machine. Since a static phase convertor was used it most certainly would have been wired in the 220v configuration.

What are you using to supply the machine with 3 phase power?

Is the motor a standard frame size motor?

Hi Michael,

Thanks for your ideas, much appreciated. Trouble with the original wiring is that there was not three obvious connections. Instead, two pairs of leads are connected to one another and nothing else and two more are connected to the line wires and also this starter/capacitor arrangement.

Im using a rotary, and the motor is standard frame. I’m looking into replacements, if I can’t figure the wiring in another day or so I’ll simply replace it.

[Michael Schuch]

Hi Michael,

Thanks for your ideas, much appreciated. Trouble with the original wiring is that there was not three obvious connections. Instead, two pairs of leads are connected to one another and nothing else and two more are connected to the line wires and also this starter/capacitor arrangement.

Im using a rotary, and the motor is standard frame. I’m looking into replacements, if I can’t figure the wiring in another day or so I’ll simply replace it.


Hello Brian,

To me it appears the the static phase convertor is built into the lid of the wiring cage on the motor (The wiring diagram does not show any capacitors or relays which gives me the very strong belief that they were added to run the machine on single phase). I believe you will want to get rid of the capacitor and what looks like a potential relay. What you are referring to as a "starter/capacitor" IS the static phase convertor. :) With those removed I would wire the 3 legs from your RPC like this:

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X The heavy wires coming in from the top of the wiring cage will be removed and replaced by leads coming from the RPC. "I" would start by putting a plug and receptacle between the RPC and Motor. Crank up your RPC. Then plug the motor into the RPC. The motor should take off spinning.

If you have ever looked inside a commercial static phase convertor (ie. Phase-O-Matic) it is literally a capacitor and a potential relay with the identifying part number scratched off of the potential relay. That is it.

[Brian Holcombe]

I’ll test those wire groups for resistance and see if it makes sense.

[Jared Sankovich]

That diagram looks a lot like a 9 lead motor. U1,V1,W1, U2,V2,W2,X,Y,Z


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[Brian Holcombe]

It sure does, but the motor had 8 leads.

[Malcolm McLeod]

It sure does, but the motor had 8 leads.

I make no claims to have seen everything:cool:, but... I searched again, thinking I am just stoopit:confused:. The wiring diagrams I can find for 3 phase motors all have 3, 6, 9, or 12 leads (99% of my commissioning efforts are 9-lead). The only diagrams I see online for 8 leads are for steppers or single phase motors. ...Not sure what to make of this.

[Brian Holcombe]

Me either, and the motor shop that rewound it now thinks it’s a single phase motor. I spoke to the previous owner again, he says it was modified to run on single phase by someone who he hired for that purpose.

It’s at the point now I’m just going to source a different 100L frame motor and call it a day.

[Warren Lake]

8 leads goes back to before Spinal Tap did their movie. After that companies went to 9.

[Michael Schuch]

Me either, and the motor shop that rewound it now thinks it’s a single phase motor. I spoke to the previous owner again, he says it was modified to run on single phase by someone who he hired for that purpose.

The modification was adding the capacitor and potential relay which is in essence a static phase convertor. If you remove those you will be back to a 3 phase motor with the three leads I show above being the proper 3 phase leads.

[Brian Holcombe]

I may give that a try Michael, next time I’m at that shop I’ll confirm resistance across those wires before I apply electric.


I also went ahead an ordered a Mitsubishi Super Line motor, 100L frame 2.2kw 3ph.

[Brian Holcombe]

Motor repair shop went ahead and ordered me a motor on their dime. Pretty cool way to make things right. I think I’ll keep the Mitsubishi as a backup.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Sounds like a stand-up business.

Sometimes 'starting over' with electrical issues is the best/fastest/cheapest path. You can miss one stray connection and destroy a brand new component.

[Jim Becker]

I'll also guess it may be easier to integrate a modern motor with modern controls, too...

Nice, machine, Brian! You need a bigger shop. LOL

[Brian Holcombe]

Sounds like a stand-up business.

Sometimes 'starting over' with electrical issues is the best/fastest/cheapest path. You can miss one stray connection and destroy a brand new component.

I totally agree, I was worried about frying the controls.

This will have its own set of difficulties but, one thing at a time.

[Brian Holcombe]

I'll also guess it may be easier to integrate a modern motor with modern controls, too...

Nice, machine, Brian! You need a bigger shop. LOL

Thanks, Jim! No doubt, I’m on the hunt.

[Jim Becker]

Thanks, Jim! No doubt, I’m on the hunt.

I know where you can find a very nice shop that also comes with a large residence. :D :D

[David Kumm]

Have you talked with Mark Hennebury ? I believe he experience with super surfacers. Dave

[Brian Holcombe]

Yes, Mark ordered me some parts for this machine and has been helping me get it sorted.

[Mark Hennebury]

Hi David,
Brian and I have talked, unfortunately I couldn't offer any help on the motor wiring.


Have you talked with Mark Hennebury ? I believe he experience with super surfacers. Dave

[Mark Hennebury]

Hi Brian, Glad that you got the motor sorted. Really decent of the rewind company to replace the motor for you.

[Jeff Bartley]

Great to hear the motor shop was willing to step up! I’m looking forward to seeing what you do with this machine.
Was there any US manufacture of super-surfaces?

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks, gents!

[Brian Holcombe]

This machine is now functional, still some odds and ends to attend to, but moving in the right direction finally. Very glad I put a control box on this and dumped the original switch.

The Mitsubishi motor arrived sooner than the other, so I installed that one. Thankfully, Mitsubishi doesn’t trust me so they went ahead and put a 3 wire hookup in the motor rather than rely upon the end user.

[Brian Holcombe]

Here’s a photo of the results and a video of the process. I’m going to get another hydraulic lift table for the outfeed.




https://youtube.com/shorts/R_Uh__QmMQ0?feature=share

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[Mark Hennebury]

Yeehaw! Congratulations! Let the shavings fly.

[Michael Todrin]

How wonderful! May your shavings always be unbroken.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thank you!!

[Patrick McCarthy]

When watching Brian's videos, I always find it a bit disconcerting that Brian is always better dressed in the shop than i am at the office. I need to step up my game.

Great machine, sir.

Best, Patrick

[Jim Becker]

When watching Brian's videos, I always find it a bit disconcerting that Brian is always better dressed in the shop than i am at the office. I need to step up my game.


Yes, that's how he's been since I've known him. Very dapper, whether in his shop or visiting mine. It matches the extraordinary (!) quality of his work for sure. :)

[Jeff Bartley]

It’s so quiet, for some reason I expected it to be louder. That was pretty neat, is it one speed through or is that adjustable? Also, is the skew angle adjustable?
Really cool Brian!

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks gents! Jeff, it’s adjustable in terms of skew angle and it has two speeds. Amazingly quiet, in fact most of the noise is actually the rotary phase converter.

[Tom M King]

Awesome!!!

[Joe Calhoon]

When watching Brian's videos, I always find it a bit disconcerting that Brian is always better dressed in the shop than i am at the office. I need to step up my game.

Great machine, sir.


Best, Patrick

Plus 1 Patrick. Brian is a class act!

[Brian Holcombe]

Much appreciated!

[Jim Becker]

Wow, that material shoots through quickly! I didn't realize this thing is kinda a "motorized hand plane". That should really cut down your processing time for components for sure.

[Brian Holcombe]

Yeah, that is the hope. I also wanted it specifically for kumiko work. Kumiko can be really difficult to hand plane when it is on the longer side since pressure from planing will flex it. So far it looks like it will work with material that thin.

It is also nice to plan a certain number of slices and have a very predictable result. I can get pretty close with hand planes but on the longer parts that can be difficult to keep it perfectly consistent.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Wow, that material shoots through quickly!

Woodworking AND aerobics - in 1 machine. And congrats to Brian on a successful overhaul.

[Jim Becker]

Agree...a lot of the work you're doing will benefit from very consistent material. If you can get a surface that you like plus that consistency, it's going to help you get things build faster/easier and out the door sooner. I'm going to have to some see that beast sometime...

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks, Malcolm!

Jim, mainly I prioritize quality and this gets me a better more consistent result done more efficiently. As I take on more work I am looking at ways to increase quality while also increasing scale. So, if I can get a bit more space I will certainly add shapers for various aspects of tenon making and presses for making glue-ups faster and more efficient. I feel the only way for me to maintain a niche is to prioritize quality at the highest rank, followed by efficiency, etc.

[Jim Becker]

Good plan, my friend. Keep the quality while increasing the throughput. Keeps the better half happy, too. :).

[Brian Holcombe]

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This has been great, I’ve done days and days worth of planing in about one day.

[Kevin Jenness]

How does this machine's setup compare to a hand plane - cutting angle, chipbreaker (?) angle and setback? When do you use the skewing feature, which would appear to lower the cutting angle? How much power does it use? How many lineal ft. of clean lumber between knife changeouts? Do you need a knife grinder to go with it or does it use replaceable knives? How did you locate your machine?

I saw one of these machines at a boat show 35 years ago and was intrigued. There's a custom door outfit in southern VT which I heard has two in line for double surfacing after the thickness planer. Seems like just the thing for small parts, but they never took off in the US. Are they widely used overseas?

[Jim Becker]

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This has been great, I’ve done days and days worth of planing in about one day.

You need to buy your better half a very large holiday gift so you can wrap it with that ribbon!

[Ronald Blue]

That's an impressive machine. The speed the work goes through is unbelievable. Once it grabs the piece it's on the other side in a couple seconds. What's the maximum width you can put through it. I'm guessing that most materials are finish ready when it comes out the other side. Look forward to seeing more on this. If there is such a thing as "precision" woodworking I'm thinking it starts here.

[Joe Calhoon]

I saw one of these machines at a boat show 35 years ago and was intrigued. There's a custom door outfit in southern VT which I heard has two in line for double surfacing after the thickness planer. Seems like just the thing for small parts, but they never took off in the US. Are they widely used overseas?

Kevin, these machines are used by some door and window shops in Europe. They are used instead of a wide belt sander as a planed surface holds the finish better than a sanded surface for exterior work. Especially for water based finish. You can still do a little hand orbital sanding after with out affecting this. At the shows ove there they demo these with pine then soaking the workpiece in a bucket of water to show there is no grain raising.

[Mark Bolton]

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This has been great, I’ve done days and days worth of planing in about one day.

Im guessing those shavings are hell on the dust collector :D:D:p

[Brian Holcombe]

Kevin,
It’s setup very similar to a hand plane. The feed is a drive belt powered by a 3hp motor. No idea on the linear feet but I haven’t worn a blade out yet and I’ve run materiel for about 15 hrs straight, so that’s a lot of material for a single knife. I did not want to buy a grinder so I bought a replaceable knife setup and while I waited for that to arrive I had one of the knives converted into that setup. I have two cutter blocks setup and swap them out between thick and thin shavings. I had a friend refer me to the seller on this one, seemed like a good deal but wasn’t all that great.

I sunk a bit of money into it replacing the drive belt, the belts, the wiring, the controls, the knives and the motor. Mark referred me to a machine that was a better deal with all things considered. It may still be for sale.

[Jeff Bartley]

That shaving is insane Brian! Bravo!