Tools for the Minimalist?

[Luke Dupont]

So, as I think many of you know, I am working in an apartment, and primarily on small projects.

I have a very, very, very modest number of Japanese tools, and some western tools that I've ordered on ebay just this month (only one of which has actually made it across the pond).

I want to get all of your take on what you deem "essential" for someone looking to tackle a wide range of *small* projects, as in, projects rarely exceeding 3 feet in length, and more often, small boxes, toys, tools, and the like -- so typically under 2 feet in length. I want to be capable of making furniture on occasion, but I doubt I will make much of it -- maybe just the odd shelf, stool, or chest, and most likely never large dining room tables or cabinets and the like.

My starting point is the basics of course:

Marking Tools:
1. Try Square
2. Folding Ruler
3. Marking Knife
4. Marking Gauge (I've been using a Japanese cutting gauge, which is nice for splitting thin wood up to about 3/8" rather than ripping)
Mortise Gauge
Probably don't need a panel gauge or layout square, but can always make them if I do
Same goes for bevels and the like.

Saws:
1. Tenon Saw, and maybe Dovetail Saw
2. Ryoba (in place of a cross cut and rip cut panel saw)... This is perhaps not necessary though, because I intend to avoid resawing and ripping as much as humanly possible. If I need to reduce the width of something, I'd rather just cross cut, split, and plane it. Or go at it with my hatchet, maybe. I have a number of hatchets and Nata, but I guess I'm not including them here as they're part of my "camping / bushcraft" gear.

Chisels:
1. Set of 8 Chisels, sizes 1/8" through 1 1/4"
I find I use every size, including all of the inbetweens and the extremes (3/8", 1/8", etc.)
Much like bits, when you need a specific size, you need it.
I have a few specific sized Japanese chisels, but I just ordered a set of 8 (modern) Stanley Sweetheart Chisels. I prefer vintage chisels, but I don't want to spend so much time and money collecting all of the specific sizes I need, and I like the form factor of the Stanley Sweetheart chisels, so, done.
2. Gouge, maybe something around 1", for bowls, Kuksas, and other fun things
3. Carving chisels? I haven't gotten into carving, but I probably should. We'll see.
Are the Japanese Chisels redundant? Probably. Do I want to part with them? I dunno, I *should*.... There's one I like in particular. I'll keep that one. The rest are cheap and maybe not worth hanging on to. I really should avoid holding on to redundant tools if possible.

Boring Tools:
1. Japanese "Kiri" -- These come in square, triangular, and even spoon and other bits, but typically 6mm and under. I think I'll just stick to one square one for drilling starter holes for nails / screws, and larger bits. These are just way too convenient not to have at least one of, maybe even a couple.
2. Brace and Bits...
I have an egg beater drill and I have used it, but I wonder if I could just do away with it and use the brace exclusively... I'm looking to eliminate redundancy.
I guess it depends whether I see myself drilling a lot of little holes, and whether I am happy with just using a pin vise... I will do a lot of small projects, so perhaps I should hold onto it. Maybe gimlets instead? Am I happy just relying on a few gimlets? I'll have to think about this...

Planes:
1. Smoothing Plane (I went with a Stanley No. 2, of all things. I used to use a No. 3, and managed to make pretty large projects (work benches) with it)
2. Block Plane (I'll keep my Japanese block plane, and maybe even get a few baby planes, such as round bottomed ones and the like)
...maybe a spoke shave? I don't really need a spoke-shave I guess...

Am I missing anything?

What would you add, and way more importantly, what would you *not* add which I should avoid the temptation to buy at some point down the road?

[Mike King]

You are in Japan. Use quality Japanese tools from quality Japanese specialists. Now is the opportunity to acquire good tools and learn to use them. Kana instead of western planes. Japanese chisels instead of cheap western ones. Ryoba and dozuki saws instead of tenon, cross cut, rip, carcase, etc.

Mike

[Andrew Seemann]

I'm not seeing anything that sounds like a straight edge on your list, so I would say a 24" rule or whatever the metric equivalent is if you use metric.

A 6" or 12" combo square is handy. You don't really need a Starrett, a carpenter's one will work just fine.

A 6" or so set of dividers are handy to do circles and lay things out, same with 6" calipers for transferring measurements.

I'm not seeing a hammer, pliers, screwdrivers, etc. on your list. I'm guessing you have them, but didn't include since they are standard tools?

A decent (Makita, Milwaukee, DeWalt, etc) cordless drill and a set of twist bits (again you might already have and not list). They are just too handy to not have one, and once people know you have one in the apartment, you will become more popular and they might let some of the noise slide a little bit:) People often romanticize drilling holds by hand, but the novelty wears off pretty quickly. That said, a Yankee push style drill works pretty nice also. I have an old Stanley/North Bros one I keep in my carpenter's box that I use more often than you would think.

I find whenever I get rid of a tool, even one I haven't used for years, I end up needing it 6 months later:)

[Jim Koepke]

If you plan on making boxes you may want a small grooving plane to make slots for the bottoms and/or tops to fit in.

These are not difficult to make for one size. Otherwise something like an old Stanley #50 or a new Veritas Small Plow plane would do the job.

A rabbet or rebate plane could also come in handy.

Are their mallets on your list?

My eggbeater drills are used as often as my brace. A lot of different types of bits have been accumulated for my braces. For the screwdriver and gimlet bits a special handle was made:

466813

A brace is a bit cumbersome for drilling nail or screw pilot holes.

Note: The Auger Handle was disassembled and chucked in the lathe to turn the handle down a touch. Also a pin (made from a nail) was driven through a hole in the shaft of the chuck. The copper ferule was wrapped in a piece of rubber to protect it from the lathe chuck.

A small awl is handy when using small screws for making quick pilot holes for mounting hinges or other box hardware:

466816466817

This was attaching hinges with #4 wood screws if my memory is working.

Here is a post of mine on a small kit of tools used for working with dowels > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?256011 < There are also a couple of other shop made helpers a few posts in.

jtk

[Colby Campbell]

Router plane? You could buy one or make one.

[Jim Koepke]

Clamps, all kinds of clamps.

jtk

[Luke Dupont]

Thanks guys! Indeed, I left out some things from my list that I have already, namely clamps, hammers, pliers, screwdrivers, files, sharpening stones, etc.

Good suggestions, especially in regards to the dividers, calipers, router plane, etc! And straight edge. I needed this the other day as I was planing the legs of my bench and wondering if they were straight...

I was thinking that I should also add a card scraper for dealing with difficult grain, and an extra iron for my plane. Since I'll only have one plane, I will want one iron that is flatter, and one that has more curvature to it.

A rasp may be useful as well. Or some of those cool files / rasps that actually have shearing teeth, which are common here.

I sort of want a mortise gauge, but am making due with two screws with sharpened heads in a piece of wood for now.

So for sake of completeness, and maybe to help serve as a guide for anyone starting out, add:

- Metal Hammer
- Mallet (I just got in the "Wood Is Good" Mallet that was suggested, and I'm liking it a lot. It definitely is quieter than what I was using before)
- Clamps of all kinds (going to play with making some of my own too, I think)

To make a truly complete list, I guess one would add also:
- Hammer
- Screwdriver
- Pliers
- Files (Including saw sharpening files)
- Sharpening Stones (of which I have already many, many more than I actually need...)
- Lots of clamps
- Many more things that I'm forgetting...

[Jim Koepke]

Good suggestions, especially in regards to the dividers, calipers, router plane, etc! And straight edge. I needed this the other day as I was planing the legs of my bench and wondering if they were straight...

Making a straight edge is easy and saves a lot of money compared to the cost of a good straight edge.

Here is an article on how to make a straight edge > https://cdn.woodsmith.com/files/issues/183/creating-a-straightedge.pdf

This is similar to how my winding sticks were made > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?290331

You also might consider having a second plane. It is nice to have a longer plane to work longer pieces. For the minimalist it might be a #4 & #5. They take the same blade size. Another combination could be a #3 & #5-1/4. The #5-1/4 is a great size for using as a scrub plane with a heavily cambered blade.

jtk

[Mike King]

This thread is pretty amusing. The title was "Tools for the Minimalist" yet it sure appears to be headed into the want not need realm.

And need is a relative term. Convenience and speed are factors that "might" affect one's differentiation between want and need. Take clamps, as some have pointed out. Traditional Japanese woodworking used rope instead of Western clamps. So, are they really "needed?" For a minimalist? Working out of a small apartment in Tokyo? Realize that you have to store all of this stuff as well and that the productivity improvement of a tool is likely affected by it's impact on space to use it, find it, or remember that you have it...

There are many methods of work, even within hand-tool woodworking. The method that you adopt will dictate what tools are essential, which are useful, and which are consumptive purchases.

I have a lot of consumptive tools...

Mike

[Prashun Patel]

While fun to make lists, the minimalist tool set is the one you have already. Buy a tool at a time if your existing set cannot satisfy, taking care to assess before purchase if the limitation is the tool or the user.

There exists no definitive list - only individuals and their circumstance with respect to time money and space.

[Assaf Oppenheimer]

I own a router plane, I'm building a bench at the moment. so far I either don't need the router plane or could go without it. If you are dead set on minimalism I think I would make one at a later date.

[chuck van dyck]

A tool chest that will keep you honest to your pursuit of minimalism!

[Luke Dupont]

This thread is pretty amusing. The title was "Tools for the Minimalist" yet it sure appears to be headed into the want not need realm.

And need is a relative term. Convenience and speed are factors that "might" affect one's differentiation between want and need. Take clamps, as some have pointed out. Traditional Japanese woodworking used rope instead of Western clamps. So, are they really "needed?" For a minimalist? Working out of a small apartment in Tokyo? Realize that you have to store all of this stuff as well and that the productivity improvement of a tool is likely affected by it's impact on space to use it, find it, or remember that you have it...

There are many methods of work, even within hand-tool woodworking. The method that you adopt will dictate what tools are essential, which are useful, and which are consumptive purchases.

I have a lot of consumptive tools...

Mike

Great point. Maybe this thread should be more about methods than tools.

For example, I've always wanted to try the rope thing in place of clamps, and played around with it a very little bit, but couldn't get it to work. I'm sure I just wasn't doing it right, and that's a skill I could certainly benefit from.

[Luke Dupont]

A tool chest that will keep you honest to your pursuit of minimalism!


Great point! I was already thinking along these lines. Hence, I should think about the maximum number of tools I might actually need, make a toolbox to that size, and only own what can fit in there.

[Luke Dupont]

While fun to make lists, the minimalist tool set is the one you have already. Buy a tool at a time if your existing set cannot satisfy, taking care to assess before purchase if the limitation is the tool or the user.

There exists no definitive list - only individuals and their circumstance with respect to time money and space.


This is true and how I would normally go about things, but there are two problems:

1. As I'm working on a project, I'm constantly having to acquire one or two specific tools at a high price, and getting subquality things, as opposed to what I really wanted. This tends to happen with chisels, bits, and the like. So I find it much more economical to just bulk purchase, say, a bunch of auger bits or a complete set of chisels -- things that I know I will need.

2. I find that I often replace the things that were of inferior quality or not exactly what I wanted when I had to buy them now just to continue with a project with something better down the road. I'd rather just buy once. So working out what I really and truly need and going ahead and getting those things saves me the trouble of having to throw away or try to sell tools that I know I will want to replace.

There's also the suggestion lower of making a tool chest of a certain size to hold what I "need", and basically not owning more than can be fit in there. I was already thinking in these terms, so being able to imagine what I do and don't need realistically will help me to establish the right size, I figured.

Lastly, there's the reoccurring frustration of waiting weeks for a specific tool to come in the mail just to get on with a project...

But, you're totally correct in that there is no definitive list, and it really depends on the individual.

For example, for the longest time I've been wanting wooden screw tap and dies, because I like making mechanical things. That's far from something that should be universally needed. But I know I would get a lot of use out of it.

I'm really just looking to establish a "baseline", I guess.

[Jim Koepke]

A tool chest that will keep you honest to your pursuit of minimalism!


Great point! I was already thinking along these lines. Hence, I should think about the maximum number of tools I might actually need, make a toolbox to that size, and only own what can fit in there.

You might look into the book Anarchist Tool Chest by Chris Schwarz for a list of essential tools >
https://blog.lostartpress.com/?s=essential+tools


“‘The Anarchist’s Tool Chest’ is divided into three sections:

“1. A deep discussion of the 48 core tools that will help readers select a tool that is well-made – regardless of brand name or if it’s vintage or new. This book doesn’t deal with brands of tools. Instead it teaches you to evaluate a well-made tool, no matter when or where it was manufactured. There also is a list of the 24 “good-to-have” tools you can add to your kit once you have your core working set.

“2. A thorough discussion of tool chests, plus plans and step-by-step instructions for building one. The book shows you how to design a chest around your tools and how to perform all the common operations for building it. Plus, there are complete construction drawings for the chest I built for myself.

“3. There also is a brief dip into the philosophy of craft, and I gently make the case that all woodworkers are “aesthetic anarchists.” — Christopher Schwarz

jtk

[Luke Dupont]

You might look into the book Anarchist Tool Chest by Chris Schwarz for a list of essential tools >
https://blog.lostartpress.com/?s=essential+tools



jtk


Thanks, I may look into that!

[Luke Dupont]

An update on my plane situation, for anyone who may benefit:

Firstly, some people suggested, and quite reasonably so, that I stick with Japanese tools and woodworking methods.
I've used Japanese tools for a long time, as well as working on the floor, and I quite like this method of working, but for my specific purposes and physical condition, I find push planes to be the better route. In particular, using Japanese planes on the pull stroke is problematic for me because of a chronic injury that makes pulling and gripping things tightly using the tendons on the inside of my forearms and wrists difficult. This is less pronounced but still present to some degree with saws as well, but generally a non issue with other tools. So, push planes it is for me, and the Stanley Bailey pattern has always worked well for me.

As push planes cannot be used very well on the floor in Japanese fashion, I'm building a small bench. I think I will have a removable toolbox for storage which spans the stretchers underneath; this will save space allowing me to store all of my tools right under my bench. I'll try this out at least and see if it doesn't worsen the potential sound problem -- I don't *think* it will cause any added reverberations, and can only help my bench in terms of stability.

I just got in my No.2 Stanley Bailey plane, and... It is great. But just slightly smaller than I realized. I could see myself wanting something a little larger, though the No. 2 will work for the majority of my work.

Previously I used a No. 3 almost exclusively and it was good for most of my work. I did find myself wanting on occasion a slightly larger or slightly smaller plane; jointing long boards or flattening bench tops was a bit challenging though perfectly doable. I like the width of the No. 3, too.

Perhaps this time I should get a No. 5 1/4 to compliment the No. 2, which is very close to the No. 3 that I was using, but 3" longer. I can use that when I want to get something dead flat without much work, and the No. 2 can double as both a scrubber and smoother since I have two irons for it; it's narrowness aiding in scrubbing, and its small size aiding in smoothing and more detailed work which I will mainly be doing... plus, a great starter plane for when my son is eventually old enough to start woodworking, should he be interested!

Alternatively I could opt for a No. 4 and a No. 2, and I think that would work quite fine, but if I am to own only two planes, it may be wise to go with the longer No. 5 1/4.

I've not often found myself needing the extra width of a No. 4, though it certainly can be handy... I would occasionally pick up a No. 4 for that reason, but for 99% of my work, I'd pick up the No. 3 in the past. So, that's another reason for leaning towards the No. 5 1/4.

Anyway, I know about how large my tool storage will be now 29cm x 65cm x however deep (about 1ft x 2.13 ft), so I can plan out my tools based on those parameters. I'll go a bit deep with it so that I can stand tools on end to save space and keep them accessible.

I think a No.2 and 5 1/4 should do all that I need, and probably don't need the No. 3, as useful a size as it may be.

While space is also a constraint, so is time, as a hobbiest with a full time job and a newborn child. So a few convenience planes may actually be a good idea -- a 5 1/4 for quickly flattening pieces, even 2 foot in length, may be handy, as would be a rabbet plane, and a plow plane. A round bottom plane may also be nice for making bowls and the like, which I intend to do. Small, light weight Japanese plow planes, rabbet planes, and a variety of rounds, skewed corner, and other planes are readily available here, all being small/narrow, and light weight, so I may pick up a few but not too many of them, only as the need arises.

I think I may borrow a page from the Ultra Light trekking crowd and put a piece of tape on each of my tools, to be removed when I actually pick up and use it, and if I do not use a given tool within a certain time frame (say 3-6 months), as evidenced by the tape still being there, I should strongly consider selling it.

[Jim Koepke]

A round bottom plane may also be nice for making bowls and the like

There are not many round bottom planes that would work for that. Maybe a spoke shave or or a hooked knife.

A search for a pull shave that used to be available looks like it is no longer around.

Next time out to my shop a picture will be taken of the items that might work for carving wood bowls.

jtk

[Luke Dupont]

There are not many round bottom planes that would work for that. Maybe a spoke shave or or a hooked knife.

A search for a pull shave that used to be available looks like it is no longer around.

Next time out to my shop a picture will be taken of the items that might work for carving wood bowls.

jtk


Thanks!

I've carved a Kuksa before, but never a bowl, so I was unsure how steep curvature is involved. As I think about it more carefully now, I think you're right that the round bottom plane probably would be too shallow.

[David Bassett]

... Maybe a spoke shave or or a hooked knife. ...

For bowls, and chair seats, add "scorp", "travisher", and "adze" to the list of terms/tools to research.

[Prashun Patel]

This is true and how I would normally go about things, but there are two problems:

1. As I'm working on a project, I'm constantly having to acquire one or two specific tools at a high price, and getting subquality things, as opposed to what I really wanted. This tends to happen with chisels, bits, and the like. So I find it much more economical to just bulk purchase, say, a bunch of auger bits or a complete set of chisels -- things that I know I will need.

2. I find that I often replace the things that were of inferior quality or not exactly what I wanted when I had to buy them now just to continue with a project with something better down the road. I'd rather just buy once. So working out what I really and truly need and going ahead and getting those things saves me the trouble of having to throw away or try to sell tools that I know I will want to replace.

There's also the suggestion lower of making a tool chest of a certain size to hold what I "need", and basically not owning more than can be fit in there. I was already thinking in these terms, so being able to imagine what I do and don't need realistically will help me to establish the right size, I figured.

Lastly, there's the reoccurring frustration of waiting weeks for a specific tool to come in the mail just to get on with a project...

But, you're totally correct in that there is no definitive list, and it really depends on the individual.

For example, for the longest time I've been wanting wooden screw tap and dies, because I like making mechanical things. That's far from something that should be universally needed. But I know I would get a lot of use out of it.

I'm really just looking to establish a "baseline", I guess.

The journey is yours to make.
However, mine has been to make a bunch of benches, then tables, then bowls, then chairs, then guitars. Each of these requires some different tools. Over time, my preference for power vs hand tools also continues to evolve.

My point is, these threads rarely take into account the fact that the user's goals may change over time.

Anyway, different strokes (push and pull I guess) for different folks.

[Jim Koepke]

Here are images of the two shaves in my accumulation that may help with bowls:

467538

Yesterday an internet search for the pull shave couldn't find anything. It may be discontinued or out of stock.

Here is an image of the business sides:

467537

The Clifton 500 would be good for shallow work. After a certain depth the handles would be in the way.

It isn't difficult to make a treadle or bicycle type drive lathe specifically for bowls. With a treadle it is easy to control the direction of spin. With a bicycle chain it may be tricky to have the work facing you in a pedaling position.

jtk

[Luke Dupont]

Making a straight edge is easy and saves a lot of money compared to the cost of a good straight edge.

Here is an article on how to make a straight edge > https://cdn.woodsmith.com/files/issues/183/creating-a-straightedge.pdf

This is similar to how my winding sticks were made > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?290331

You also might consider having a second plane. It is nice to have a longer plane to work longer pieces. For the minimalist it might be a #4 & #5. They take the same blade size. Another combination could be a #3 & #5-1/4. The #5-1/4 is a great size for using as a scrub plane with a heavily cambered blade.

jtk

I picked up a No. 5-1/4 as you suggested, since I previously used and liked the No. 3 so much. And, I must say, it is a really great size. Whilst I won't be making large things so often, I've already found it quite handy for planing smaller stock 2-3 feet in length and being assured that the piece is quite flat.

The other thing got is a Chinese Bowsaw. I used one of these that I made myself in the past (I made the blade as well. There's a thread somewhere here on the build), and having nothing to compare it to, always wondered if I'd done a good job. Well, the commercial one that came in was almost exactly like what I built in construction and use! Anyway, these saws are quite useful and can be used for ripping, crosscuts, and joinery. Not quite as easy to use as Japanese saws, but you're able to cut on the push stroke, which is very advantageous when ripping as you don't have to get up underneath the work like you do with a Japanese saw (in order to rip with, as opposed to against, the grain).

The old tenon saw I ordered on ebay and sharpened and set has been something of a disappointment though. For whatever reason, it's really hard to use and gets stuck in the cut no matter how much set I add or remove. Not sure what I'm doing wrong -- I've sharpened and restored tenon saws before. I'll have to fiddle around with it some more. The plate is also quite a bit thicker than I'd like too, though. In any case, I suppose it is not so necessary to have with both a bow saw and Japanese saws on hand.

[Derek Cohen]

Luke, I’m coming to this thread late. With regard to planes, I think that you should look at making a couple of Krenov-style woodies. A smoother at 5” and a jointer at around 15-18”. The traditional double blades are made by Hock, but you could find alternatives closer to home. These planes would be both light and sized to suit you.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

The old tenon saw I ordered on ebay and sharpened and set has been something of a disappointment though. For whatever reason, it's really hard to use and gets stuck in the cut no matter how much set I add or remove.

What kind of wood are you cutting?

Some of the pine and other firs tend to swell and close up when sawing whether crosscutting or ripping.

The only cure for this is dryer wood.

This reminds me of a conversation an employer of mine had with a coworker about automotive engine problems. It went something like having three possibilities causing a problem, fuel, timing or compression.

With saws it is rake, ppi or set. If the rake is 0-5º (hopefully not less than 0º) it will be a difficult saw to start and may feel like it is sticking in the cut if you are not used to a steep rake. Many of my rip saws are set to ~8º rake. If my memory is working the Veritas saws are set at 14º rake. This makes for a smooth working saw starting and through the cut.

Different ppi for different work. Some of my joinery saws go as low as 10ppi. My favorite for ripping 4/4 hardwood is 6ppi. For a little bit slower nicer work, 10ppi works.

Before being able to tell if it is the set one needs a means of determining the set. My preference is a dial caliper. The price on these may be prohibitive. An easy way to get around the cost is with a set of feeler gauges. It isn't difficult to use feeler gauges to comparison measure thickness of items. The blades can be stacked for additive comparison.

You can measure the kerf after cutting. If the kerf isn't 0.003" - 0.006" wider than the back of the saw, it will likely be binding.

Other than that would be technique. If the saw isn't going almost perfectly back and forth it can also bind. Thinner saw plates are susceptible to this.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Try rubbing a plain old candle along the saw..just above the tooth line....VOE...

[Christopher L Everett]

If you use Japanese chisels, then also use Japanese hammers: https://covingtonandsons.com/2020/05/09/the-japanese-gennou-handle-part-1-introduction/

[James Pallas]

Sometimes we limit ourselves by taking the stance “I need this tool before I can do this task”. I have often found that in todays world we can go to the net and just look. Sometimes you will find the experts using minimal tooling. Two I can think of are: Phil Lowe shaping a cabriole leg with a wide chisel and a spokeshave and Kaare Loftheim cutting full blind dovetails with a marking gauge, back saw and 2 chisels. There are many more out there. If you learn that you may not need more tools and can wait until you have the space and or the cash. Besides that you get some proficiency with tools and have fun to boot.
Jim
P.s. Phil’s expertise will sorely missed.

[Andrew Seemann]

Sometimes we limit ourselves by taking the stance “I need this tool before I can do this task”.

Starting out as a (monetarily) poor woodworker is a good fix for that:)

You say, I need to do this task, what tools do I already have that will work well enough?

[Jim Koepke]

Starting out as a (monetarily) poor woodworker is a good fix for that:)

You say, I need to do this task, what tools do I already have that will work well enough?

Lack of funds can lead to a lot of learning.

jtk