Debating Felder A3 vs upgrades to current equipment

[tim walker]

Lots of money. Currently have a Dewalt DW735 planer and an older 6” Delta jointer. Upgrade options would be a Shelix head in the planer and an upgrade to an 8” spiral cutter jointer with a longer bed. Upgrades would run around $2500 and it might could get $200 for selling existing jointer. Fielder 12” is approximately 5400 plus shipping/tax so around $6.25k. Or $4500 more. Is it worth it for a higher end hobbyists? And if yes, do you feel the in/out fed tables on the felder are long enough?

[Erik Loza]

Tim, Erik here :)

I'll let other members answer the "is it worth it" part but regarding bed length, European machines have historically been designed with shorter tables, due to the small shops that are common over there. This being said, there are really nice dedicated extension tables for any of the Hammer machines that you can take on and off quite easily. For example, someone could easily add three feet to the infeed and to the outfeed sides of an A3 if they chose to. Then you just lift off the extensions and store then on a wall or whatever, once you're done. Hope this helps.

[Rod Wolfy]

It wasn't worth it to me. I had a lunchbox planer and a 6" jointer to start. Then I kept upgrading. My shop size actually shrank. For the money, a Jet or Rikon J/P would probably be a nice upgrade from separates. You can get the planer for about $1,500 for a solid stand alone machine, but it takes up shop space. Getting an 8" jointer would be OK, but then you may want to keep upgrading. A 12" jointer is close to $3k or more. You loose money buying and selling most of the time. You add the $1.5 to the $3k and you get to one of the cheaper combo machines.

I had a Jet 12" HH J/P. It was great, but I upgraded anyways to a A3-41 this year. Save your money, if you like woodworking that much. Saves space for me, too.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I had a Dewalt 735 planer and a Jet 6" HH jointer. I sold both within two days of listing them on Craigslist.

I replaced them with a Hammer A3-31 12" J/P. Love this machine, it's quiet and cuts beautifully.

I don't enjoy the swap over, hand cranking the planer bed wheel, but I'll take that slight irritation.

Mine is on a Bora PortA-Mate base and rolls easily for when I need to position it to do long boards and need 8 to 10ft infeed and outfeed.

It was a lot of money, but woodworking (making sawdust) is my main hobby now and compared to the amount of money I've spent on motorcycles, it was bargain.

[Jim Becker]

Yes, to the J/P combo...great machines with flattening capacity that equals thicknessing capacity. Shorter tables are, frankly, a non-issue in my decade and a half experience owning one of them. In the rare situation that I have to process something really long, I just use auxiliary support like Erik mentioned. But I rarely need to do that because I break lumber down to oversize for components before milling it. It's easier to handle and you lose less thickness on a smaller workpiece if there's some waviness, cup or bow that needs to be dealt with. My machine is a different brand than you are considering, but I could be happy with the brand you are considering, too.

[Steve Jenkins]

I dont have a combo unit but have a Felder 20” planer that I bought new in mid 90’s. I’ve never used extension tables and often run 8-12’ 8/4 through it. Simply support the end as you feed it in then walk around and support it as it comes out.

[ChrisA Edwards]

A3-31 infeed/outfeed with the quick bolt on extension tables

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/i452/cedwards874/Woodworking/.highres/ExtensionTable1_zps9whornec.jpg

[Rod Sheridan]

I upgraded from a General 8” jointer and General planer 13 years ago to a Hammer A3-31, second best decision I ever made. (best was getting rid of my General shaper and cabinet saw for a custom built Hammer B3).

The jointer tables are plenty long enough for most work, if you make REALLY large things, as Chris mentioned you can get table extensions, I’ve only used them once or twice for over 8’ parts.

You won’t regret buying it…..Rod

[Mike Wilkins]

I am also a serious hobbies but I also like to use quality machines. Like many others I have been on the upgrade cycle since I got the woodworking bug back in the mid-80's. Craftsman bench top jointer, Parks 12" planer and Jet 6" jointer, a Ryobi bench-top planer. I finally got a low cost Asian made 12" jointer/planer machine and loved the greater capacity.
Then I got the Hammer A3-41 16" J/P machine when they came out with the Silent Power cutting head. Best machine purchasing decision I have ever made. Quieter, fine surface finish, smaller footprint. I plan to add the extension tables in the near future.
I promise you will not regret adding one to your shop arsenal.

[Cliff Polubinsky]

I don't enjoy the swap over, hand cranking the planer bed wheel, but I'll take that slight irritation.


Buy a cheap drill, make a round piece of plywood with a slot for the Hammer's handle and two fingers to fit around the disk. Fasten a bolt through the center for a shaft and you have a motorized way to crank.

Cliff

[Derek Cohen]

Yes, to the J/P combo...great machines with flattening capacity that equals thicknessing capacity. Shorter tables are, frankly, a non-issue in my decade and a half experience owning one of them. In the rare situation that I have to process something really long, I just use auxiliary support like Erik mentioned. But I rarely need to do that because I break lumber down to oversize for components before milling it. It's easier to handle and you lose less thickness on a smaller workpiece if there's some waviness, cup or bow that needs to be dealt with. My machine is a different brand than you are considering, but I could be happy with the brand you are considering, too.

Ditto to all Jim writes. I have had the Hammer A3-31 several years. Digital gauge and silent head.

I build a lot of medium-sized furniture and the bed length has been perfect - never felt that it was short. Highly reliable and superior machining and finish.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[ChrisA Edwards]

Buy a cheap drill, make a round piece of plywood with a slot for the Hammer's handle and two fingers to fit around the disk. Fasten a bolt through the center for a shaft and you have a motorized way to crank.

Cliff

But how do you use the digital depth gauge, which I feel is one of the best features.

[Brian Holcombe]

The shorter tables on combo machines are pretty annoying at times. Given the space, I would trade up to full sized separates.

That said, all of this is rather meaningless without knowing what size work you would like to do.

[Warren Lake]

ive jointed 14-16 foot material and never had extension tables. Support tables yes and they work fine, different thing. The work is done on the outfeed table and the support sitting out past the outfeed is only there to support the material not a continuation of either infeed or outfeed. The support is only there like if you had a human helping only it works better.

[Phil Gaudio]

Keep in mind: whatever you end up with in terms of width, you find a need for something wider. I went from a 6" jointer to an 8" jointer to a 16" jointer: I have found myself wondering if a 20" jointer would be nice? It is a slippery slope.

[Todd Zucker]

I’m with Chris. Sold the 735 (really loved it though) and a 6” porter cable jointer on Craigslist and got the A3. Don’t find the tables too short but I don’t build huge stuff. Changing over takes maybe a minute. It also fits nicely in the garage. I did buy one of the extension tables that I keep on the planer out feed side, but I have not felt a need for getting any more.

[Mick Simon]

You come close with the drill/disk using the gauge that came on the machine, then remove the disk and dial it in using the gauge.

Go to the 0:45 second mark to see the process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FZdBTHzpoE

[ChrisA Edwards]

You come close with the drill/disk using the gauge that came on the machine, then remove the disk and dial it in using the gauge.

Go to the 0:45 second mark to see the process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FZdBTHzpoE

I like that, going to make one of those today, thanks

[Cliff Polubinsky]

If you'd rather not drill holes in your depth gauge disk, try this instead.

466802

466803

The fingers go on the outside of the disk. No modification to the Hammer needed.

Cliff

[ChrisA Edwards]

Done, thanks.

I have an .svg file for this, but cannot upload this file type. Pm me if you would like a copy of this file.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/i452/cedwards874/A3-31DialTool(1).jpg

[Michael Rutman]

You might want to contact a Hammer rep as the price you quoted seems high to me. I ordered my A3-31 last week with digital depth guide, wheels and shellix head. No extension tables. Maybe I just got lucky, but my quote was under $6K. The 6 month wait is still there.

And thanks to the Hammer reps! Good, responsive friendly people.