Duplex outlet that doesn't point the same way?

[Wade Lippman]

We got a new refrigerator and moved the old one into the basement next to the freezer. They both have large plugs with the wire coming out the bottom and they simply won't both fit in the duplex outlet. Is there a outlet that has them pointing in different directions. One up and one down, one to the right and one to the left... whatever. Right now I have one on a short extension cord, but that can't be right. Does such a thing exist?

I might be able to answer my own question...
I was just in Lowes and didn't see this, but it might work.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Legrand-adorne-White-15-Amp-Square-Tamper-Resistant-Outlet-Residential-Outlet/3804943?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-ggl-_-PLA_ELC_205_Wiring-Devices-Extension-Cords-_-3804943-_-0-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&ds_a_cid=112741100&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtrSLBhCLARIsACh6RmgfMTGBGSRjfrJhg77E 6Idfh6p1HmAB76DMPrQWtX0dD5fonEGDAXYaAmM5EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Walter Plummer]

I have seen these before but i have never used one. https://www.amazon.com/360-Electrical-36011-V-Rotating-Duplex/dp/B000VWE67A/ref=asc_df_B000VWE67A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167140365824&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12894882419742009586&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007580&hvtargid=pla-307234193696&psc=1

[Frank Pratt]

The fridge & freezer should be connected to separate circuits. I don't know what the code calls for where you live, but the rational for the rule is that something that is full of $$$$$ of rottable stuff should be on it's own dedicated circuit to minimize the chance of another load tripping the breaker. Code or not, it's good practice.

[Bill Dufour]

Could you replace one cord end with a swivel one. Replace the box with a four outlet one. When I did my new fridge I replaced the outlet with surge outlet since fridges are computerized now.
Bill D.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-15A-125V-TR-Surge-Receptacle-WH/1002944366?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-ggl-_-PLA_ELC_205_Wiring-Devices-Extension-Cords-_-1002944366-_-0-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&ds_a_cid=112741100&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInJj24oHV8wIV-xitBh25lgnuEAQYBCABEgLXlvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[roger wiegand]

Probably easier to swap the plug than the outlet.

Boy, a computerized fridge sounds like a disaster in the making. "sorry, an unexpected error occurred...."

[Tom M King]

I'd just 180 the receptacle in the box.

[Wade Lippman]

The fridge & freezer should be connected to separate circuits. I don't know what the code calls for where you live, but the rational for the rule is that something that is full of $$$$$ of rottable stuff should be on it's own dedicated circuit to minimize the chance of another load tripping the breaker. Code or not, it's good practice.

I wanted it on my generator, so I ran it off a circuit that had nothing but my router on it; so it is very lightly used. Even if both turn on at the same time, they aren't enough to trip it the breaker.
I put alarms on both that sound if they go above 10F.

[Wade Lippman]

Probably easier to swap the plug than the outlet.


You are probably right; I would only have to do one of them.

[John Terefenko]

I would gamble and say you are wrong. If they both come on the same time they will trip the breaker because the start load on the compressor is more the older they get. I would not put them on the same circuit. especially if it is a 15 amp circuit.

[Rod Sheridan]

Check your local code, where I live a refrigerator requires a separate circuit……Regards, Rod.

[glenn bradley]

I they are typical u-ground plugs I use these (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1)when things get crowded.

[Rich Engelhardt]

We got a new refrigerator and moved the old one into the basement next to the freezer. They both have large plugs with the wire coming out the bottom and they simply won't both fit in the duplex outlet.That's intentional. "They"(meaning the people that make these types of appliances) want to discourage people from doing what you want to do - for the reason's people have listed above.

While it may not be code in your area to run a non-dedicated circuit - it's a wise idea & it's a wise idea for that circuit to be 20 amp.

I had this discussion with my electrician three years ago. I opted to run a new dedicated circuit.

[Jim Koepke]

Others have beat me to the problem with having two heavy loads on one circuit.

They are words of wisdom, pay heed.

jtk

[Tom M King]

I missed that part.

Just today, I was turning the power back on in a rental house, after changing sevice entrance to underground, decided to mark the breakers, and found the refrigerator circuit also powered up half the receptacles in the two car garage. I'll be running another circuit for the refrigerator, and suggest that here, as well, or at least another circuit for whatever else it's powering besides your refrigerator.

[Mark Bolton]

Most refrigerators only pull about 6 amps. It may have changed but to my knowlege there is no specific call out in the NEC for a dedicated circuit for a fridge though its recommended. Fridge rececptacles are exempted from the 20a counter top rule. Your local code may exceed the NEC...

The only reason there is a right angle plug on the fridge is so you can push the fridge back tight to the wall without putting a bind on a conventional horizontal plug on the cord. It has ZERO to do with blocking the adjacent receptacle. If someone installs a duplex back there you can just plug in to the lower receptacle and the top one is still open. We always installed a single receptacle back there so there was only one receptacle for the fridge as thats all that will likely ever be plugged in there.

[Rich Engelhardt]

The only reason there is a right angle plug on the fridge is so you can push the fridge back tight to the wall without putting a bind on a conventional horizontal plug on the cord. It has ZERO to do with blocking the adjacent receptacleBeg to differ but - flat plugs come in all sorts of different styles besides 90*. They also come in an offset so you can plug into both receptacles. Having said that - when was the last time you saw anything other than a right angle 90* on a refrigerator?

[Mark Bolton]

Beg to differ but - flat plugs come in all sorts of different styles besides 90*. They also come in an offset so you can plug into both receptacles. Having said that - when was the last time you saw anything other than a right angle 90* on a refrigerator?

Never, because especially with modern fridges without coils on the rear you can push the fridge back dead tight to the plug and if you had anything other than an angled plug on the cord you would create a fire hazard pushing the fridge back against the plug sticking straight out from the wall. 45 degree and 90 degree plugs are available for sure but a right angle, vertical drop, cord is the industry standard because its the most common. Contact a fridge manufacturer and ask them. It has nothing to do with blocking the other receptacle. If they insisted or needed to block the other receptacle they would ship some custom plug with a large flange around it that completely blocked any option to plug in above or below the fridge. You can simply plug the fridge into the bottom receptacle and to top of the duplex is still accessible via some other cord, an AC cord, a 3 prong adapter that bumps a vertical drop plug above out far enough to pass over the plug below, on and on.

The right angle cord is to not put the cord in a bind when you shove the fridge back tight.

[Rich Engelhardt]

You miss the part about 90* - there are angles plugs that are set at 45* which would allow the use of both receptacles. There are - as far as I know - no manufacturers that use anything but 90* on refrigerators.
I have searched for them for the last three years - - ever since my electrician mentioned it to me.

I do not dispute the fact that the plugs are flat.

[Wade Lippman]

Beg to differ but - flat plugs come in all sorts of different styles besides 90*. They also come in an offset so you can plug into both receptacles. Having said that - when was the last time you saw anything other than a right angle 90* on a refrigerator?
One is straight down, the other is at 45*.

I haven't measured these, but two fridges I have measured drew 1a running and about 12a to start. The router has to be less than 1a; so the maximum total will be 25a for a second. It is a 20a circuit; that won't trip on 30a for a few seconds.

[Mark Bolton]

You miss the part about 90* - there are angles plugs that are set at 45* which would allow the use of both receptacles. There are - as far as I know - no manufacturers that use anything but 90* on refrigerators.
I have searched for them for the last three years - - ever since my electrician mentioned it to me.

I do not dispute the fact that the plugs are flat.

No need for a pi$$ing contest. Im completely aware there are 45 degree, vertical drop, and even 90 degree horizontals. Heck now there are swivel plugs. The point is they all cost more than a bajillion a year 90 degree vertical drop cord that the appliance manufacturers beat their vendors into quoting and supplying for pennies. Thats why its a vertical drop cord. It has ZERO to do with dis-allowing two vertical drop cord appliances to be plugged into the wall. Its because they are the bread and butter (cheap) and allow the appliance to be shoved back tight to the wall.

A GAS RANGE.. is supplied with a vertical drop cord.. a GAS RANGE draws nothing more than the clock, igniter, and thermostat, circuit.. likely less than an amp... they are not trying to "block out" other appliances behind a gas range. The vertical drop is supplied because its cheap.

[Bill Dufour]

Make sure you plug it in to the lower outlet. Everyone knows the cold settles downward so that electricity is colder and cools better. The top outlet is for heating.
Bill D.:D

[Chuck Saunders]

Make sure you plug it in to the lower outlet. Everyone knows the cold settles downward so that electricity is colder and cools better. The top outlet is for heating.
Bill D.:D
Finally, Someone takes the science into consideration.:)
I think the code is more specific to kitchens than refrigerators/freezers, though still a good idea to keep them on separate circuits.
Chuck

[Jim Koepke]

Finally, Someone takes the science into consideration.:)
I think the code is more specific to kitchens than refrigerators/freezers, though still a good idea to keep them on separate circuits.
Chuck

Common sense would dictate that. If for some reason one trips the breaker you don't want the food in both to go bad.

jtk

[Charlie Velasquez]

Finally, Someone takes the science into consideration.:)
I think the code is more specific to kitchens than refrigerators/freezers, though still a good idea to keep them on separate circuits.
Chuck

yeah, the code says the kitchen must have at least two 20 amp Small Appliance Branch Circuits. These circuits can not feed anything else except the kitchen.
The refrigerator can be plugged into one of these circuits, and other things can be plugged into it.

You can also plug the refrigerator into a 15 amp circuit. But, then, the circuit must be dedicated to the refrigerator only.

[Bill Dufour]

Used to be the fridge only circuit could be non gfci. Not sure if that is still correct.
Bill D

[Jim Koepke]

yeah, the code says the kitchen must have at least two 20 amp Small Appliance Branch Circuits. These circuits can not feed anything else except the kitchen.
[edited]


Used to be the fridge only circuit could be non gfci. Not sure if that is still correct.
Bill D

And remember codes change over time. Any new work needs to be done to current code. Finally codes may be slightly different in your city, county, parish, locality, state, country, imaginary state of minid.

jtk

[Kev Williams]

yeah, the code says the kitchen must have at least two 20 amp Small Appliance Branch Circuits. These circuits can not feed anything else except the kitchen.
The refrigerator can be plugged into one of these circuits, and other things can be plugged into it.
My kitchen is 55 years old, has three 15a circuits, 1 fridge, 2 countertop. With all the electric crap these days, our kitchen needs at least 2 more 15's. Hard to run both of our 1050w coffee makers (always on, but on separate circuits) PLUS any TWO high-draw appliances: a 1200w microwave, a 1500w toaster oven, a 1500w toaster, a 1500w induction cooktop, 1200w induction hot water pot... then there's the slushie grinder, pasta maker, the KitchenAid, various counter lights, plus the array of battery chargers... Would be nice to have enough outlets for everything too ;)

[Edward Weber]

If you know what you're looking for, they're easy to find.
Here is just one example
https://www.homelectrical.com/15-amp-nema-5-15r-surgeblox-surge-protection-receptacle-w-alarm-white.etw-1208w.1.html?utm_source=googleBase&utm_medium=CSE&utm_campaign=CSE&scid=scplpETW-1208W&sc_intid=ETW-1208W&campaignid=11907934732&adgroupid=122426394384&creative=488041139171&matchtype=&network=g&device=c&keyword=&gclid=CjwKCAjwwsmLBhACEiwANq-tXNlLUksbqSznsreXLowEk7ujykOgjknRLZfWBx3ZzUcnzejGG lHm5RoCkuIQAvD_BwE