Routing out the back of a piece for a french cleat for wall mounted coat rack

[Brian Runau]

I am making a simple wall mounted coat rack and have a metal 2 pc french cleat. Plan is to route out the back so I can mount part of the cleat to the inside surface to mate with the wall mounted 1/2 off the cleat and when it is installed it will sit flush against the wall. I have a dedicated router table and wanted to ask what bit would let me remove more material? I have a 1/2" spiral bit, but this will take a bunch of passes, but not aware of anything else that would be more efficient.

Thanks.

Brian

[Jim Becker]

Multiple passes is a pretty good idea regardless, Brian. Taking too big of a bite with a .5" cutter can easily end up taking chunks or throwing the workpiece. How deep does the recess need to be to accomodate the metal cleat system? Will this be a stopped recess so it's not visible at the ends of the coat rack or a through cut end-to-end?

[Brian Runau]

Multiple passes is a pretty good idea regardless, Brian. Taking too big of a bite with a .5" cutter can easily end up taking chunks or throwing the workpiece. How deep does the recess need to be to accomodate the metal cleat system? Will this be a stopped recess so it's not visible at the ends of the coat rack or a through cut end-to-end?


Jim, You won't see the recess from either side and not very deep maybe 1/8" at most. I have 1/4" dia spiral bit, just wanted to make the work quicker. Just multiple passes I guess. Thanks Brian

[Rich Engelhardt]

Is it possible to do the wall instead?
I have dug out the drywall a few times so that part of the cleat is recessed into the wall - instead of being proud of the wall & the shelf part of the cleat is fastened to the back of the shelf and is proud of the shelf.

[Richard Coers]

Is it possible to do the wall instead?
I have dug out the drywall a few times so that part of the cleat is recessed into the wall - instead of being proud of the wall & the shelf part of the cleat is fastened to the back of the shelf and is proud of the shelf.
Doesn't the gypsum just crumble when you screw the cleat on after you take the paper off the face?

[Rick Potter]

How about using a table saw using a 1/8" flat bottom kerf, then making a filler piece to hide the ends of the cut. Shouldn't show at all.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Doesn't the gypsum just crumble when you screw the cleat on after you take the paper off the face?I screw the cleat into a stud. If there isn't a stud, I use anchors.
It's an alternative to routing the coat rack.

[Jim Becker]

Sounds like this might be a task better suited to be done with pattern routing rather than the table. A simple fixture to hold the workpiece that also serves are the pattern for the recess would allow you to route it out at the bench with a hand-held router and a spiral or straight cutter.

[Bill Dufour]

You could use a groover. Not sure of the name look like a mini saw blade. for cutting a groove in frame and panel construction for the panel to fit in. Or a mild bullnose version.
Bill D.

[Jim Becker]

Bill, he needs to do a stopped (hidden) recesee so a groover would not work very well for this application putting a pocket on the back of the workpiece.

[Stan Calow]

Would a wider straight bit (say 1/2" - 3/4") two flute not work in fewer passes? When I use a spiral bit to cut a groove, I find it wants to wander too much. I have a 1 1/4" mortising bit that I often use to cut a wider groove. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Dia-Mortising-Shank-16-106/dp/B0000225XE/ref=asc_df_B0000225XE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309869401414&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1212721219104014544&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1020414&hvtargid=pla-435586483603&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=63364097444&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=309869401414&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1212721219104014544&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1020414&hvtargid=pla-435586483603

[John K Jordan]

I just routed a deep recess for an "industrial strength" tie down after a startled horse pulled the existing one from the post on the barn. I had to make an approximate 3x3.5" irregular recess from 1/2" to 1" deep. I used a 1/4" bit with two straight carbide cutters mounted in a palm router. I did it by hand without a template or anything. It went quickly. Since the pocket needed to be irregular a bit of cleanup with a chisel and I was done.

The new tie down is intended for equipment trailers and is held with 5" carriage bolts in a reinforced 6x7" laminated post. She'll pull the barn down before she pulls that one out.

The 1/4" carbide router bit was perfect, not grabby and didn't take too many passes.

I have no idea about or experience with installing french cleats.

[Bill Dufour]

Bill, he needs to do a stopped (hidden) recesee so a groover would not work very well for this application putting a pocket on the back of the workpiece.


I was thinking something like how they cut a handle hole in the end of a wooden box. he would have to lay out the beginning and end of the cut and do it blind against the fence.
Bill D

Not me just a picture of the slot I mean.

[John K Jordan]

I was thinking something like how they cut a handle hole in the end of a wooden box. he would have to lay out the beginning and end of the cut and do it blind against the fence.
Bill D

Not me just a picture of the slot I mean.

A friend of mine makes with one cut on all his beehive boxes. He ganged a bunch of circular saw blades, has the arbor at an angle, rests one end against a stop, and lowers the box side into the gang. Not too pretty but very, very fast and effective.

JKJ

[Brian Runau]

Would a wider straight bit (say 1/2" - 3/4") two flute not work in fewer passes? When I use a spiral bit to cut a groove, I find it wants to wander too much. I have a 1 1/4" mortising bit that I often use to cut a wider groove. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Dia-Mortising-Shank-16-106/dp/B0000225XE/ref=asc_df_B0000225XE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309869401414&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1212721219104014544&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1020414&hvtargid=pla-435586483603&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=63364097444&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=309869401414&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1212721219104014544&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1020414&hvtargid=pla-435586483603

I found this bit in my collection yesterday before I read your post and plan to use it. Did a test on a sample to set up the height and it worked fine. great minds... thanks brian

[Rick Potter]

A little late, but my suggestion (#6) would entail using only the wall portion of the metal cleat. The shelf itself would be the other side.

Sorry, I wasn't clear.

[Brian Runau]

Ta da. Didn't take to long once I had it set up. thanks for everyone's input. Brian

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