Mortise chisels

[Jack Frederick]

I’ve been on the list for MC’s at LN for several months and called them this am. They just had a run of them and apparently 8 mos wasn’t enough of a wait to qualify for the buy and the next run is a few months out. I’m patient and like LN products but at this point I need the chisels. I’m looking for a 1/4, 1/2 & 3/4” or equivalent metric. What do you like?

[Derek Cohen]

At the moment I am using Fujikawa mortice chisels, and enjoying them greatly. I like their size (better sized for furniture making), which is probably closer to LN than Veritas (Veritas are larger than LN and closer to the English Bolstered style, which I have moved away from). Fujikawa specialised in mortice chisels before more recently offering bench and paring chisels as well. I have just these two, a 6mm and 9mm ...

https://i.postimg.cc/ncNrsg2d/Fujikawa1.jpg

Another useful addition here is a Sokozari (bottom cleaning chisel)...

https://i.postimg.cc/1tkBNSQB/Sokozari.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[David Bassett]

I like the Ray Iles "pig stickers" sold by TFWW. (They're out of 1/4" and don't seem to carry 3/4", but have all the other sizes including 1/2" in stock.)

I've often seen the Narex mortise chisels praised for their value. I don't have any reason to think they wouldn't work well too, but I like the look and feel better of the more expensive ones.

[Barney Markunas]

I have a set of 20+ year old Sorby boxwood handled sash mortise chisels as well as a newer Ray Iles bolstered but generally prefer the Ray Iles when the size is right. Veritas now makes mortise chisels in both A2 and PV-V11 and I expect they are nice. I like the edge holding characteristics of the one PM-V11 bench chisel that I own - that extended wear capability could be a plus in a mortise chisel. I am also sure that I could be very happy with some of Stan Covintgton's Japanese mortise chisels too. You have a number of good choices on both the new and used market. A well sharpened, nicely made tool tends to let you concentrate on your work - it just becomes an extension of your hands.

As nice as the matched sets look lined up in a rack or a drawer, I would take this opportunity to sample several vendors and see what YOU like in terms of edge holding, balance and fit/finish. Bob Smalser used to sing the praises of older millwright mortise chisels. I don't think those have been in production for ages but a little judicious searching I am sure would turn up something worth taking for a test drive. Too many tools, too little time and money. Good luck with your search!

[Stephen Rosenthal]

+1 for Ray Iles Pigstickers. They feel good in my hand and are very robust. I have the 1/4” & 1/2”. The 1/4” gets a lot more use. One of these days I might get a 3/8”.

[Jim Koepke]

I’ve been on the list for MC’s at LN for several months and called them this am. They just had a run of them and apparently 8 mos wasn’t enough of a wait to qualify for the buy and the next run is a few months out. I’m patient and like LN products but at this point I need the chisels. I’m looking for a 1/4, 1/2 & 3/4” or equivalent metric. What do you like?

Jack, the 1/4 & 1/2" are good sizes for working with the fir & pine so common here on the west coast. The 3/4" is an uncommon size for a mortise chisel and unless something isn't showing on my screen, the LN site doesn't list one.

A heavier 3/4" chisel works well for me cutting mortises:

465714

This chisel was found at a second hand store for $3. One of my better finds:

465715

It was made by Winsted Edge Tool Works for the U.S. Navy.

It looks like the better 3/4" mortise chisels on ebay are from across the Atlantic.

jtk

[Jack Frederick]

I ordered a 1/2” Ray Ike’s today. Derek, the Fujikawa was not available currently. Seems to be a trend. As always, much obliged for the help.

[David Zor]

I think you'll be pleased with the Ray Iles chisel.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I had no problems with the Narex Chisels, but I sold them since I also have the Ashley iles and I liked them better so I sold the Narex Chisels. I think that Paul Sellers has claimed no issues using a regular chisel, so if you really want the Lie Nielsen, use a regular chisel until they are available.

A note about the Ashley Iiles chisels:

https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-MORT.XX



The sides of the chisel form a slight trapezoid, so that if your chisel isn't perfectly aligned with the cut you won't damage the sides of the mortise, and more importantly, there is a lot less of a chance for the chisel to get stuck. You just push the chisel in the mortise a little and it loosens up. Lighter sash mortise chisels are ground parallel but that's because they are designed for shallower mortises in window sashes which are usually in soft wood. Some manufacturers say that that parallel sides make it easier to guide and align the chisel with the mortise but in fact the alignment of the mortise is determined by the first stroke of the blade into the wood, long before the sides of the chisel can have any effect.


I assume that most mortise chisels are not shaped like this, but I don't really know that; just be aware of it. Depending on how you sharpen this may be good or bad; I am thinking about side clamping. Lie Nielsen does not mention what they do, but Lee Valley claims that they do. I have not tried the Lee Valley mortise chisels, but I really like the other chisels I have from them.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/chisels/mortise/74686-veritas-mortise-chisels



The chisel sides are slightly relieved to reduce sidewall friction and allow for minor cut corrections. Each has a 25° primary bevel to make deep cuts easier, with a 35° secondary bevel to give them a durable cutting edge. To aid in levering out waste, the heel of the bevel is rounded to provide a smooth fulcrum. A2 or PM-V11 tool steel versions are available.

Lee Valley does not offer a 3/4" version. Then again, I do not see this from Lie Nielsen either. Sorby Registered Mortise Chisels do come in 3/4"

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/chisels/mortise/30010-sorby-registered-mortise-chisels

Will be interested in what you choose to buy.

[Gerald Etto]

Just curious, is a mortise chisel worth getting? I have a set of Stanley Sweetheart, and while I do know mortise chisels make cutting mortises a whole lot easier, I can't afford like a full set. If I could buy two, which sizes should I get?

[Stephen Rosenthal]

Just curious, is a mortise chisel worth getting? I have a set of Stanley Sweetheart, and while I do know mortise chisels make cutting mortises a whole lot easier, I can't afford like a full set. If I could buy two, which sizes should I get?

Gerald,

It depends on the dimensions you use. The math for mortises is usually 1/3 the thickness of the material. In other words, a mortise in 3/4” stock should be 1/4”; 1 1/2” stock (6/4) should be 1/2”. There are exceptions but that’s the general rule. You want at least an equal amount of support on the sides of the mortise. Those are the widths I generally work with so I have 1/4” and 1/2” mortise chisels. As noted above, I use the 1/4” the most.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Just curious, is a mortise chisel worth getting? I have a set of Stanley Sweetheart, and while I do know mortise chisels make cutting mortises a whole lot easier, I can't afford like a full set. If I could buy two, which sizes should I get?

In a video I saw with Peter Sellers he says you do not need a mortise chisel. So, if you do not cut a lot of mortises yo probably do not need them. If you do want one, just buy the sizes you expect to use. So, if you think you will join 3/4" wood, then get a 1/4" chisel (for example).

I think that I have a 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2. I do not cut many and I have probably not used all three of them but sometimes a friend works with me in the shop and I don't always pay attention to what size mortise he is chopping.

[Peter Mich]

I’m sure you meant Paul Sellers, not the comedian Peter Sellers. I smiled because this mixup is so familiar to me: I’ve been called Paul (my twin’s name) more often than not.

[Jim Koepke]

Just curious, is a mortise chisel worth getting? I have a set of Stanley Sweetheart, and while I do know mortise chisels make cutting mortises a whole lot easier, I can't afford like a full set. If I could buy two, which sizes should I get?

Howdy Gerald and a belated welcome to the cave by the Creek.

As others have posted, this depends on how many mortises you intend to cut. Many of my mortises have been cut with chisels that are actually framing chisels or straight sided firmer chisels. Some have been cut with lighter chisels.

One rule of thumb is the mortise & tenon should be 1/3 the width of the pieces joined if they are of equal size.

One point from the Tools For Working Wood site:


The primary bevel on the chisel is ground to a very narrow 20 degree angle. This of course is not a strong enough angle to hold up to vicious chopping, but it's historically accurate because the narrow angle lets a blow on the chisel push the chisel very deep. And that's what we want - to go as deep as possible with each blow.

In the discussion of the bevel angle it also mentions "vicious chopping." My heaviest mallet is used with my hardiest blows when cutting a mortise.

The main point is you do not want a dainty chisel for heavy work. In the link Andrew posted for Tools For Working Wood (https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-MORT.XX) there is an image of a traditional mortise chisel (pig sticker). Compare this to the Sorby Registered Chisels (https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/chisels/mortise/30010-sorby-registered-mortise-chisels) at Lee Valley.

Chisels made for the sole purpose of mortising are typically much thicker front to back than the Sorby Registered Chisels. The Sorby chisels are definitely stout enough to cut mortises. They are also convenient for other tasks in need of a heavier chisel.

In my case, there are both mortise chisels and heavy firmer chisels in my accumulation. There are also many other chisels. My wallet comes out too easily when there is a nice looking tool in front of me. Maybe there are meetings for people like me… Hello, my name is Jim and I hunt rust…

jtk

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I’m sure you meant Paul Sellers, not the comedian Peter Sellers. I smiled because this mixup is so familiar to me: I’ve been called Paul (my twin’s name) more often than not.

Wow, how did I get Peter from Paul? I don't even think that I can blame auto-correct!

Yes indeed, Paul Sellers!

<resisting urge to say "thank you Paul Mich">

[Eric Rathhaus]

I'm passing along advice I've read by very skilled people here, and if I mistake their advice, it's my error. I think part of the answer depends on how you chop your mortises. If you drill first, you don't need mortise chisels bcs you're just cleaning up the sides. But if you chop out the mortise, one advantage of the mortise chisel is the trapezoidal shape. I've practiced chopping mortices riding the bevel as suggested by Warren Mickley. The shape of the mortise chisel with a flat face helps achieve nice clean sides as you work your way across and deeper. Here's a link to a discussion on chopping the mortise with reflections on chisels used that might help you decide. https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?290178-First-time-Vintage-Buy-quot-Pig-Sticker-quot-Mortice-Chisel/page2&p=3104971

[steven c newman]

4,6,8,10mm from Narex.....3/8" from Witherby.....12mm from Okinawa, Japan....Plus a few sash chisels by Butcher and Buck Brothers......I think that should do the job.