Poly on pine doors and windows

[Carl Crout]

We have a vacation home with solid pine doors and pine window frames. My GF wants them to just have a clear finish.

In the past I have used oil based poly but she doesn't like the yellow look that it has.

So it looks like it will be water based poly in a matte finish. What would you recommend about the water based raising in the grain?
Do I wet it first and sand that smooth then apply a couple of coats of poly, or apply the first coat of poly, sand smooth with 220 grit then add another coat?
Or some other method?

BTW, I will be brushing it on the windows and spraying the doors.

[Jim Becker]

Pre-grain raise isn't always practical for this kind of situation. So sand well and clean. Apply a coat of the finish and let it dry thoroughly. Use 320 or 400 paper to knock off the nibs, clean thoroughly and apply another coat. Check for nibs and if necessary repeat the scuff with the 320 or 400 abrasive. Clean and apply your remaining coat(s).

Make sure your GF understands that pine will still naturally amber over time. It's what it does with oxidation and UV.

[Frank Pratt]

As Jim said, the pine will still yellow eventually, but it will always be lighter than if oil based was used. And the matte finish is a very good call if a more natural look is desired.

[Curt Harms]

I've never tried this with a clear water based finish but a coat of Seal-Coat dewaxed shellac on bare wood then latex paint works very well. Seal Coat being alcohol based rather than water based so doesn't raise the grain. The shellac coat may require light sanding but in my experience sands very easily. Coats of finish should not require sanding. I was using a sprayer for this procedure, not sure how brushed applications would work, especially the shellac.

One option for clear coats I've heard about but never tried or even seen. Buy untinted paint. Supposedly it dries to the sheen purchased - satin, gloss etc. but clear. Supposed to work better outdoors than most clear finishes. I imagine the surface texture would still be 'paint'.

[Jim Becker]

Yea, I mentioned the inherent yellowing simply because I didn't want your SO to turn around and smack you up-side your head in a few years when it becomes noticeable. But Frank is spot on...you'll be starting at a colder, more white color initially which should meet your goals.

[John TenEyck]

You should (strongly) consider using a product with a good UV absorber package in it for the windows. General Finishes High Performance is one such product that has one and in a brushable formula. If you use one w/o the UV package it will yellow with sun exposure, as will the underlying wood, and likely crack and peel over time, too.

John

[Frank Pratt]

You should (strongly) consider using a product with a good UV absorber package in it for the windows. General Finishes High Performance is one such product that has one and in a brushable formula. If you use one w/o the UV package it will yellow with sun exposure, as will the underlying wood, and likely crack and peel over time, too.

John

That's a very good point.