A simple toolbox and a Drill Brace test

[Axel de Pugey]

Dear Creekers,

Few years ago, wandering on the woodworking interwebs, I bumped into a new to me yet brilliant idea: using an axe for a toolbox handle. This idea was so simple it left me mesmerized.
Last year I was fed up moving all the gear for my chainsaw in an old card board box and I decided it was time to have a proper solution.
As I bumped into an unusual brace in a flea market in Belgium, I thought it would be a good opportunity to put this tool into test.

I have documented the build for a French speaking non-neander forum I attend from time to time. The idea was to explain my way of doing things by hand and present few exotic tools I use (exotic meaning from outside Europe).

I am by far not a tool expert but my feeling is that (south?) western Europe did not really have a culture for metal hand planes and kept the woodies until quite late, and panel and back saws were barely used as frame saws of all sorts were the way to go in most shops.
Of course it was an all-different ball game in Perfidious Albion ;-)
As I am honing my skills with traditional French tools, I am planning on doing projects only with them later on.

As SMC’s audience is expert in hand tools, I will not translate all my blah blah and bad jokes, to keep the wording to a minimum.

Of course for the wise audience of the Creekers, there will be no exoticism and the product itself is plain and simple but I thought I could still present this basic build and hear some comments to improve.
I have learnt so much reading SMC for years; I felt I had somehow to report back to the forum. Of course I would be delighted to receive any input or critics about my choices.


So first, the unusual tool I found for EUR 3 in Belgium is an MF #182

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/bois_broc_2648.jpg

I did not own a drill yet, so I was really in need of such a tool to make holes!


Here, detail pics of this drill brace

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0830.jpg

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0832.jpg


A friend gave me a walnut tree few years ago. Unfortunately she used a professional company to chop it down and they have cut it in really short sections of +/- 60cms.
I am delighted to have received this tree but can only make small projects with it.

I usually make my boards quarter sawn on a homemade sawmill.
As I would not like to spoil the venerable Neanderthal-Haven with a picture of a machine, please allow me a photographic metaphor.



This is a photographic metaphor.

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0680.jpg

[steven c newman]

Have seen more than a few tool boxes that use the wrist handle...where there are 2 slots, that would fit around the crank part of a brace....leaving the wooden handle sticking out of the top of the tool box, when the box is closed up.....Then you can carry the tool box by that handle....

[Jim Koepke]

There are many ways to make a tool tote / tool box. Old tool handles is part of the art of using what is on hand.

Here is a tote of mine made years ago and sold at a farmers market:

464303

If the tools are carried in a tool roll, then it isn't too cumbersome to move the tools out to use it as a stool. Most of the folks who looked at it thought it was a great way to carry beer and sandwiches then have a small table at the beach.

The original link to the Popular Woodworking article that inspired it has long been broken.

There are a few features to remember when making the typical tool tote:

464304

Make sure there is room between the sides and the handle so the largest tools to be carried will fit. Also make the handle high enough from the bottom so a drill motor can fit if one is going to be used. On this tote one side is higher than the other. There is also a wall with dowels at the left end for holding screwdrivers, files, chisels, pencils or any other item. The vertical piece on the far wall holds a pull saw securely.

If one doesn't have a hollow auger to reduce the size of a large dowel used for the handle a small dowel or even a nail driven through the end will keep it from slipping out:

464305

The board on the right side was used as a practice piece for a beading cutter and carving balls & balloons out of the bead. It hit me half the way across that it looked like Morse Code. It came to me to carve my initials in Morse Code at the end.

Hopefully you can show images of your tool box when it is finished.

jtk

[Axel de Pugey]

Thank you Steven, I have seen these as well, I was just introducing my toolbox, it is already made with an axe.

[Axel de Pugey]

Hi Jim, thank you for sharing your toolbox pictures and givig some advice.
Cool anecdote with the morse code!

[Axel de Pugey]

Finally I reconsidered the wood choice, as I am quite stingy with my quarter-sawn lumber, I will mix a quarter sawn oak board I made too thin and full of knots and some plain sawn walnut left over as well.

The wood selection

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_9492.jpg

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_9513.jpg




As space management is key in my 10m2 shop (108feet2), I always pushed back on making and storing a sawbench.

As it is a sunny autumn day at the time of the build, I use my wife’s plants garden as a bench. It is deeper than the ground therefore it it allows me to use a 70cm (4.5 tpi) saw to put the lumber to size without hitting the ground.


Outdoor woodworking

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_9506.jpg

[Axel de Pugey]

Milling

The usual defects

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_9518.jpg

As I use oak for the bottom, I need to reduce the thickness quite a lot for weight considerations (I did not have enough thickness to bookmatch though). So I don’t bother getting rid of the high spots first and process the whole surface.


Short fore plane across the grain to get rid of the cupping and reduce the thickness

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_9543.jpg


I often refer to winding sticks

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0344.jpg


Now for the twist, I use a longer sole and less camber on the iron


Fore plane in diagonal

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0351.jpg


No more cup, no more twist

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0480.jpg

[Axel de Pugey]

Then I grab the try plane

My try plane iron is straight, I just knock off the corners

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0417.jpg

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0439.jpg

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0469.jpg


Just checking!

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0448.jpg


On the boards I want to keep the maximum thickness possible, I mark the highs

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0452.jpg


and I grab a smaller tool

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0471.jpg



For the edge, I use a jointer, this is the only plane I keep a 100% straight edge on the iron. In the event I am badly off square, I do few passes with the long fore plane and am off to town.

Jointer plane on the edge

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0492.jpg

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0508.jpg



Thicknessing, not the most exhilarating part

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0510.jpg

The “getting there” sign

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0534.jpg

[Axel de Pugey]

Oak processed, now on to the walnut!

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0540.jpg


This tree lied on my friend's garden floor for 2 years before it was given to me, therefore some parts are nicely spalted, others are to get rid of.

Edges are rotten

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0542.jpg


Automn arrived I have to saw inside

My favourite British saw (5 tpi)

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0567.jpg


Try plane on the face
(sorry for the redundancy, I enjoy taking pictures)

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0573.jpg


Jointer on the edge

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0576.jpg


Thicknessing

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0577.jpg


Ready to start

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0582.jpg

[Axel de Pugey]

Locating the joints

I often leave a narrow space between my tails but I never really tried to leave only the space for the saw, I guess that’s what some call a “London Style”. I will try my luck.
In addition, as I was watching the video of the Pekovich toolbox, I thought I could leave the marking gauge line as well for a change (one bold statement for sure!)



Inside faces are smoothened

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0631.jpg


Shooting board

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0620.jpg


As I saved weight by thinning the oak I kept the walnut a bit thicker, so the oak tails will be longer for the aesthetics.

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0639.jpg


Divider’s ballet

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0649.jpg


Speaking of ballet, I discovered recently « les Indes Galantes » from Jean-Philippe Rameau (1735), I love a specific movement « The Savages» (for example here at the harpsichord (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQiBIb_klT8)). This happy little piece is perfect to cut today’s dovetails.

I will explain a bit more in detail how I did these specific dovetails as the end result proves I could use a bit of advice.

Once I chose the number of tails I wanted, I marked pencil lines on the end grain and give them one (and one only) vertical first saw cut. I know in theory this first cut should be already angled but I am never managing it, normally that is not such an issue but with such a little space between the tails, every little flaw is more obvious.

At first I am trying to do two saw kerfs next to each other, but the saw jumps from one another, so I end up having only one kerf between each tail on the other corners of the box.

Then not tracing anything else, I use my old template and saw directly the tails until I reach the marking gauge depth line.

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0667.jpg

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0669.jpg


My first issue is that the lone vertical starting kerf is super visible… or the kerf is wider because of the following angle I used, I am not sure. Anyway we’ll see the outcome later.

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0727.jpg

[Axel de Pugey]

Grooves for the bottom

Now that my dovetails are located, I can work on the grooves where the bottom will slide.


https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0686.jpg


https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0696.jpg


https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0704.jpg


Four grooves done

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0711.jpg


As mentioned somewhere else on this forum, I always end up with the #50 marking the tails but this is not really visible once the joint is closed.

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0699.jpg

[Axel de Pugey]

Tongue and groove

In normal use, this toolbox will inevitably rest on forest floors and other humid places, so I am planning for a tongue and groove bottom.

In France Tongue and Groove planes in one, are the most common flea market tool. Having a separate tool for each joint is a bit more seldom (and finding them as a matching pair never happens)





Partial family shot featuring a foreign cousin from across the pond


https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0586.jpg


For the board thickness I have, I will use the matching pair to the right of the picture.


Groove

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0599.jpg

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0603.jpg


Tongue
(Note how the “internal” chip is naturally pushed out)

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0605.jpg


It works well even on the knots

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0614.jpg


I fit the boards together and score the final width

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0721.jpg

[Axel de Pugey]

Rebate

I make a rebate all around my bottom panel

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0719.jpg


So I will now pause hoping for a crucial input from the wise audience about the spurs of this tool (and of the #50’s)

As much as I don’t have any issue with wooden plane’s nickers, I plain dislike Stanley’s style of spurs. I find them way too thick, way too deep; it just does not work with me!
I really often end up taking them off and scoring the line with a marking gauge or knife in between each rebate plane’s strike. This is counterproductive to say the least.

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_21_0998.jpg

I appreciate the fact that my sharpening technics of these tiny parts is not really good, but is it possible that my frog brain cannot figure out how to use them?

Fellow Creekers, could you please teach me the dark magics of Stanley spurs…do you reduce their thickness, do you change the angle or shape, do you reduce their length?
(I know the spur of the #45 is different and adjustable but I don’t have this tool)

Thank you

[Thomas Wilson]

Axel, I find myself looking forward more and more each day to your posts. Thank you for the obvious effort you put into sharing them. Who is your photographer? I thank them as well.

[Scott Winners]

I am only minimally qualified to talk about spurs, but here is my take. Having a thick solid knicker should help it last a while. The cut line made by the knicker and the edge of the cut made by the plkane iron need to line up good. Because the knicker cut only needs to be as deep as the plane shaving is thick, only the more or less tip of the knicker needs to be "sharp".

Look forward to hearing what others have to say about this, my take is the Stanley knicker is so thick to make it robust.

I am enjoying these pics a well, I keep hoping to see how you used an axe haft as a tool box handle today...

[Jim Koepke]

Who is your photographer? I thank them as well.

My guess is his helper with the photography might be the same one that helps me, a Mr. Tri Pod and the ever so handy Shutter Delay Timer.

Though Axel's camera does appear to be more capable of clear pictures than mine.

jtk

[Axel de Pugey]

Axel, I find myself looking forward more and more each day to your posts. Thank you for the obvious effort you put into sharing them. Who is your photographer? I thank them as well.

Thomas, Many Thanks, that means a lot to me to read so positive words. I read SMC for years and have pushed back for years to publish anything here. For one, you people are so over skilled it is scary and publishing in English always requires an extra effort for me because of the necessary jargon.

I trimmed down a lot of the technical verbiage from the French version and put less pictures here as well, as everybody knows the deal already.
And to answer your question Jim is right, I am relying on a 10 seconds delay and a trusty tripod!

Many thanks again for the kind words

[Axel de Pugey]

My guess is his helper with the photography might be the same one that helps me, a Mr. Tri Pod and the ever so handy Shutter Delay Timer.

Though Axel's camera does appear to be more capable of clear pictures than mine.

jtk

Jim, you nailed it.
But as a hard-core fanatic of classic photographers, I rely more on the lenses than the camera itself.
I only enjoy fast lenses, an incredible value 135mm f2 and a super cheap 50mm f1.4 being my workhorses.

[Axel de Pugey]

Scott, thank you for your help and the really kind words as well. I hear you...and agree to the theory:


(...)Because the knicker cut only needs to be as deep as the plane shaving is thick, only the more or less tip of the knicker needs to be "sharp". (...)



But…as a matter of fact, I am pretty damn sure the Stanley spur goes way deeper than the thickness of a chip. And is way too thick itself.

On a normal wooden one, like this dovetail tool for example, at least I can play with the depth and the shape, being like a double bevel marking knife is super efficient.

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/brocante/rabot_arondes_1.jpg

I really don’t understand how to make this design work and would really like to join the happy crowd of Stanley spurs users!

[Scott Winners]

On a normal wooden one, like this dovetail tool for example, at least I can play with the depth and the shape, being like a double bevel marking knife is super efficient.

I really don’t understand how to make this design work and would really like to join the happy crowd of Stanley spurs users!

I imagine someone with a lot more knowledge than me, like Jim Koepke or Derek Cohen or dang it I am drawing a blank. Honestly just about everyone here with a rabbet plane has more experience than I do, and turns out nicer stuff. Who was the guy that built a hall table last winter, black legs, black top, but he had waterfalled a sycamore plank around for the aprons and put drawers in it. It was absolutely stunning, I wanted that table then, still want it.

Anyroad, I have been all the help I can be. On my Record 778 there are three spurs I can select to be pointing down into the cut. I suppose I could shorten one of them a little and the other a lot and then match what cutting spur I was using to the depth of shaving I wanted to take. It sounds like a lot of work for joinery is not going to show on any piece in my forseeable future.

EDIT: Found the guy, Edwin Santos. His dog bowl holder would be a lifetime masterpiece for me.

My main point is you could cut up an aluminum beverage can to make a spur from, and a nasty sharp spur it would be, but it would also crumple easily.

[Jim Koepke]

On my #45 that is used with its spurs, one of the spurs on the cloverleaf has been worked down to where it is only a little deeper than the shavings it is cutting.

Sometimes it is just easier to knife the sides of the work without having to go through setting the knickers before using.

The early #55 and the #39 dado planes have adjustable spurs.

jtk

[Axel de Pugey]

Well, thank you both for sharing your thoughts.
I must say I am a bit disapointed there is no magic trick. I might play a bit with reducing the thickness first. Thank you for your imput.

[Axel de Pugey]

That is completely off topic, but today I answered a classified and I came back with 28 woodies for EUR 60.
There are several really interesting pieces...I am quite happy.

464630

[Ron Selzer]

That is completely off topic, but today I answered a classified and I came back with 28 woodies for EUR 60.
There are several really interesting pieces...I am quite happy.

464630


Quite the score!!

[Axel de Pugey]

Back to the joints


Dovetails are transferred and cut

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0731.jpg



https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0732.jpg



For the transfer I must confess, I was never lucky with the #140 trick, I believe popularised by Rob Cosman.
I have much more success with the stroke of genius by our prominent Derek Cohen. Many thanks Sir for this contribution to mankind; this tape trick has definitely been a game changer for me once I came across your article few years ago!

In this Canada vs Australia game, Derek Cohen genius 1 EUR method wins hands down

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0984.jpg


Tails and pins before refinement

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0745.jpg

[Axel de Pugey]

Quite the score!!


Thank you Ron, I have been lucky.
All the tools are French but one, the very large plane on the far right has got an I & H. Sorby iron, that is a lucky find indeed!

[Axel de Pugey]

Stopped dadoes for the handle supports



Several cross grain strokes (13tpi)

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0750.jpg


Several chisel strokes

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0751.jpg


And a trusty router to finish the job

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0753.jpg


As I was over cautious for the first dado, I need to widen it by a hair

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0758.jpg


The rest of the dadoes went ok

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0760.jpg

[Jim Koepke]

That is completely off topic, but today I answered a classified and I came back with 28 woodies for EUR 60.
There are several really interesting pieces...I am quite happy.

464630

Nice find, the plane under the red handled countersink tool looks like half of a rule joint plane pair. The fourth one to its left looks like it could be the other half of the pair.

jtk

[Axel de Pugey]

Well spotted the rule joint tool Jim!
Unfortunately it is the picture angle giving this impression, the plane on the left is only a simple moulding (I need to check the name in English).
My life cannot be that easy, it will take me years to find the match ;-).
Until then, I will test if I can make the other side of the joint with a hollow tool.

[Axel de Pugey]

Mini walnut panels

I am using narrow left over walnut pieces for the handle supports, so I glue them together

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0747.jpg


A quick smoothing

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0763.jpg


Handle supports

As I certainly do not need to have clinical accuracy in my curves, rather than building a half template, I borrow a dish part in the kitchen

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0766.jpg


As my bow saw has too wide of a blade for this curve I have to do relief cuts

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0770.jpg
(Note, I have built the frame saw in the background at school when I was 12 years old, with it's Peugeot blade, it is still handy!)


Then, on to the spokeshave.
I do not have the strength for some small blades, so I use a jeweller’s tool to grab them.

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0772.jpg


I really like the MF #2, but the balance between moving sole placement/depth of cut is not always easy to find and I often end up with a bit of skidding. I still have to tame this one (not even mentioning MF #1)

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0776.jpg

…that is the reason I had to clean up with a cabinet scraper

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0781.jpg

[Erich Weidner]

Very nice pictures. I'm enjoying watching it all come together.

[Axel de Pugey]

Hi Erich, many thanks. A nice comment to read indeed as I feel it took almost as long to take the pictures as to build the box!

[Axel de Pugey]

Hand Beader

I really like the hand beader, it is really a tool I make a point to use when I make something without electricity.

I don’t know if hand beader sounds special in English, but the name of the tool in French is really cool! It is called a “Tarabiscot” and funny enough; the whole population knows the name without knowing any woodworking. The reason is, a really funny and ancient expression meaning “excessively complicated” is: tarabiscoté (therefore hand beaded).
I love this word.


Stanley Hand Beader in a tight concave curve

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0782.jpg


The Stanley tool I have cannot go in tight curves due to its large sole, a traditional hand beader is more adapted.


Traditional hand beader

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0786.jpg


To make new profiles, I like using old sabre saw blades, they are thicker than my band saw blades.
But there was no need to make a new profile as my favourite British tool maker thought about my problem


Perfect hand beader for a tight concave curve



https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0794.jpg


Then, as this box will be moved quite a lot, I need to chamfer every sharp edge. I am not a block plane user, I have four I think and they are my most dusty tools, I barely ever use them.

For a while I used a Stanley chamfer spokeshave, it worked really well…and then I realised my guy from Birmingham did one with a depth adjuster…so I had to try it, and I love it! (even if I barely need to touch the adjuster to be honest)

Perfect chamfer tool for a curve

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0808.jpg

[Axel de Pugey]

Drilling at last

I want to keep the wobble of the handle to the minimum of course, so I did few tests to design the holes and chose the best bit.

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0810.jpg


So it is now time to test this Millers Falls #182. I had strong doubts about the comfort of use.
It is confirmed that when using the tool as a brace, the user has to leave the drill handle down otherwise it will always be in the way for each revolution.


Vertically - The bit was improperly set up at the time of taking the picture

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0819.jpg


No issue in horizontal drilling

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0821.jpg


Brace test passed


https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0820.jpg

[Jim Koepke]

Looking good.

jtk

[Scott Winners]

The suspense is killing me. Can't wait to see the axe haft as handle for forestry tool box. Must wait. All in good time. With a single bit American style axe and a footed haft I can see this working good, the edge could be down towards the ground while carrying and the wear marks on the haft would not interfere with two handed swing. This should be an epic thing for folks that go out into the woods to do man stuff. Tarabiscote indeed. If I end up making one I will paint it flourescent orange so it will be easy to spot on the forest floor. Carry on.

[Axel de Pugey]

Thank you Jim!

Scott, we are near the end, but I can already disclose a fact, you will be disapointed by the axe...all my axes are Scandinavian!
When I come on holidays in the US, I bring back some old rusty tools in my cases bought from thrift stores, usually some handplanes....but I would not dare to bring back an axe.
And you are right for the color of the box, some people looking at the end pictures wrote that it looks like I forgot the box in the forest.

I am off to buy a fluorescent orange spray can, I will add a last step to this post.

[Axel de Pugey]

Drilling for dowels

A dowel plate made out of an old hinge is used

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0544.jpg


The end of the wood is shaped with my favourite pencil sharpener

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0552.jpg

(Note for Scott, this one is Danish (https://www.landvirke.dk/snitteokser))

And a good mallet finishes the trick

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0557.jpg


For a complete test, I try to use the tool as a hand drill in vertical position

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0833.jpg

Then horizontal

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0843.jpg

[Axel de Pugey]

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_IMG_0224.jpg


Feedback on the tool:

As a hand drill
Positive point: this is a hand drill with a brace chuck, allowing for larger drill bits than on a more common hand drill.
Negative point: due to the design, it is impossible to use the hand drill in vertical position, it is nearly impossible for me to find a sturdy way to grab it. Maintaining a plumb drilling and turning the handle is a real challenge. Of course in the horizontal position, there is no issue and the hand drill does the job perfectly

As a brace
Negative point: I do not know if it is my tool or a faulty design, but the part that blocks the ratchet is constantly releasing itself, not biting the metal part strong or deep enough. I have cautiously filed the notches a tad deeper to see if it improved things, but that was not a success, I should maybe have done it more downright.

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_IMG_0223_2.jpg

[Axel de Pugey]

...We will then quickly finish the box


Dowels are set up

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0853.jpg


A quick smoothing

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0858.jpg


I had to scrape some knots especially on the bottom of the box

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0860.jpg



I had a “no possible failure plan” in my mind…but of course I rushed and glued up skipping the general chamfering step.
As expected, I cannot chamfer the inside corners with the spokeshave where the handle supports join the sides.

I still chamfer everywhere the tool can go

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0867.jpg


And I use a mini block plane to join the aborted chamfers

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0869.jpg

[Axel de Pugey]

Dovetails results

Now I think it is better to show the result of my first “London style” dovetails attempt before applying the finish, as it would darken the wood.


The most ugly corner where I was attempting to keep two saw kerfs

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0874.jpg
(We can clearly see the multiple saw kerfs from the tool jumping from one kerf to the other)


keeping only one saw kerf on the rest proved to be a good idea


https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0875.jpg
(It is far from perfect, but good enough for me)


On this type of dovetails, I would be interested to hear about you, experienced Creeker:


Is it correct to do only one saw kerf between the tails?
Is there a way to angle the saw in one direction and then in the other without increasing the kerf (on the top) between the tails? (as shown in a prior picture p.1, with the brown arrow)
Any other advice to improve?

[Christopher Charles]

Axel,

Thanks for sharing and taking time to post all the fine photos! And I'm jealous of all the nice old steel-not much of that available here.

Those tails look great to me. I also usually aim for both kerfs to align, though there's no 'right' or 'wrong', beauty is in the eye of the beholder and all.

Will look forward to seeing the rest of your efforts!

Best,
Chris

[Axel de Pugey]

Hi Christopher,
Many Thanks for your input.
You are in a much better place to find old steel than me, mine came mostly at a high price from the UK, that was before.
But I am in a good place for old wooden planes I cannot complain.

Thank you for confirming on the kerf, it sounds logical in fact, I don't know why I was intending to do two parallel kerfs...that was silly.

Thanks a lot!

[Axel de Pugey]

So finally...

A bit of oil and Shellac and I am done!

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0893.jpg


https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0926.jpg

[Axel de Pugey]

Few more pictures

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0955.jpg


https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0970.jpg


https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0953.jpg


https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0963.jpg


https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_20_0977.jpg

Many thanks for your patience in reading my broken English!

[Jim Koepke]

Very nice looking tote Axel.

Interesting idea of using the handle risers as separators for small storage at the ends of the box.

Something others will surely copy in future tool totes.

jtk

[Joe Bailey]

Many thanks for your patience in reading my broken English!

Alex - a beautiful project with really fine photography -- well done!

btw -- your English is just fine.

[Timothy Thorpe Allen]

THAT is a very nice looking tote!

I may have to adapt it to a version for my own use....

[Scott Clausen]

Axel, I am enjoying this following along, I have grown to love hand tool woodworking. My two Stanley 45's have a three sided spur with the fourth quadrant being a no spur blank to avoid wear on non cross cut grooves. I suppose some that I have seen are more of a knife blade than a spur (tiny three spur piece) and all I can say is when in need of an edge touchup you want to, like a chisel, preserve the flat on one side.

[Scott Winners]

Axel, that is a thing of great artistry. Well done. I would leave it behind in the woods within the first six trips just because I wouldn't be able to find it unless I leave it in my truck bed. So mine (less aestheticaly pleasing) is painted bright orange.

Can you post some more pics of the holes in the riser and it looks like a kind of latch please? The haft on the axe you chose is very similar to the one I had in mind to use for this project. Curious how finicky it is to carry without the box sliding off the axe.

[Christopher Charles]

Beautifully done, I really like the handle support details and the dovetails are tight. I'd also be prone to leaving it in the woods!

[Michael Todrin]

Thank you for sharing your project Axel. What a great idea. I want to make one now too.

Michael

[Mark Rainey]

Axel, that is a unique, attractive and useful toolbox. What the Neanderthal forum needs are woodworkers who love hand tools and love to use them. Well done.

[Axel de Pugey]

Many thanks everybody, all this praise truly helps my confidence !
Thank you.

[Axel de Pugey]

Very nice looking tote Axel.

Interesting idea of using the handle risers as separators for small storage at the ends of the box.

Something others will surely copy in future tool totes.

jtk

Jim, I hope so !
As I did not create the original concept, I am just passing it over.

[Axel de Pugey]

Alex - a beautiful project with really fine photography -- well done!

btw -- your English is just fine.

Joe Many thanks ! And I am glad I could be understood.

[Axel de Pugey]

THAT is a very nice looking tote!

I may have to adapt it to a version for my own use....

Timothy, many thanks ! Please share your version, I might make another one.

[Axel de Pugey]

Axel, I am enjoying this following along, I have grown to love hand tool woodworking. My two Stanley 45's have a three sided spur with the fourth quadrant being a no spur blank to avoid wear on non cross cut grooves. I suppose some that I have seen are more of a knife blade than a spur (tiny three spur piece) and all I can say is when in need of an edge touchup you want to, like a chisel, preserve the flat on one side.

Scott, many thanks for coming back to my issue.

Pardon me, I am not sure to understand. On my 78, I guess I have the same kind of 3 head spur as on the 45, are you saying that they are not ground the same from the factory ? Or did you modify them ?

I find hard to believe million Stanley users did not have my problem in 100 years.

[Axel de Pugey]

Beautifully done, I really like the handle support details and the dovetails are tight. I'd also be prone to leaving it in the woods!


Christopher, many thanks. The gear inside the box is full of colors, plastic boxes, chainsaw files rolls etc, soi t stands out quite well…until now.

[Axel de Pugey]

Thank you for sharing your project Axel. What a great idea. I want to make one now too.

Michael


Thank you Michael, as I was writting in my first post, when I saw this for the first time, it was this version (https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/396713)…and I immediately knew I would make one.

[Axel de Pugey]

Axel, that is a unique, attractive and useful toolbox. What the Neanderthal forum needs are woodworkers who love hand tools and love to use them. Well done.


Mark, Many thanks.

It is an understatement to say that I was a bit scared all these years, to post here.
To me, SMC is the virtual mecca of handtools, so full of experts.

Your kind words are really important to me…ok, I might come back then ;-)

[Axel de Pugey]

Axel, that is a thing of great artistry. Well done. I would leave it behind in the woods within the first six trips just because I wouldn't be able to find it unless I leave it in my truck bed. So mine (less aestheticaly pleasing) is painted bright orange.

Can you post some more pics of the holes in the riser and it looks like a kind of latch please? The haft on the axe you chose is very similar to the one I had in mind to use for this project. Curious how finicky it is to carry without the box sliding off the axe.

Scott Thanks again for your support.

As I obviously decided wobble should be kept to a minimum, I did a first test with 2 pieces of pine, spread out with clamps. That allowed me to find the minimum shape and size of holes required.
In fact the holes themselves are not completely flat, I slide the axe with a bit of an angle to keep the size of the holes to a minimum. That mean the entry points and exit points of each hole are a bit in diagonal.
Of course, because of the shape of the handle’s end, there is a bit gap under the handle in the second hole. I could not avoid this.

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/IMG_0025secondtrou.jpg

I saw another idea (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NufiyQKgGGQ)to avoid this, but I did not want to go this route.
I might still think about this kind of design (maybe with brass) if I make a second box for my spoon carving kit, as these axes don’t have a strap hole.


For the little key, I did a flat on the side of the handle support, to be really tight.
I just did it as a dowel and shaped the head.

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/IMG_0024.jpg

Things have moved a bit since then and I have a tiny wobble there but that is really nothing.

All in all, it is absolutely confortable to carry, it fits completely my expectations.
Note that I did everything I could to keep movement to a minimum, to the point that now, hygrometry is different and I have to give a good wack to the axe to pull it out, I might file a tad the second hole.

[Axel de Pugey]

BY the way, pardon me, these pictures of the final product date from last week…
I decided to follow Scott’s suggestion above about the colour, therefore the box tonight looks like this:

https://pic.higo.pm/bois/chainsawbox/wf_IMG_0022orange.jpg

[lowell holmes]

If you will sand the rusty tools and coat with Johnson's wax, they will not rust. My tools used to rust, but they are not rusty any more.

[Scott Winners]

I just noticed the orange paint tonight when I showed this thread to my wife. Even your paint job is better than mine Axel, well done.

Both holes in the uprights have to be large enough to let the foot of the axe haft through, that is not avoidable.

For what it is worth I can buy cordwood from the state forest for $10 per cord, about 2 cubic meters, but it is standing timber 'on the stump' and usually at least 30 miles from my house. Or I can have green cordwood already cut to length and split dumped in my driveway for about $300 per cord. When I was a younger man with less arthritis I left many many things in the forest because they weren't colored bright orange when I was tired and ready to drive home.

On the one hand it is sad to see the beautiful wood covered with orange paint, but on the other it is good to know your grandchildren will be able to fight over that beautiful thing because you won't leave it behind in the forest after a long work day. Looks like you had to drill a hole through the axe haft to secure the axe to the tool box with your dowel, but your drilled hole is in a place where it doesn't really interfere with the use of the axe. You have earned many many points with this project, including an invitation to dinner from my wife. We look forward to meeting you in a future gentler time when you are able to travel to here.

[Axel de Pugey]

Dear Scott,

I feel extremely bad!

The orange paint job was only a joke triggered by you mentioning :

(...)If I end up making one I will paint it flourescent orange so it will be easy to spot on the forest floor.

I just used a wee bit of old photoshop as a joke, and as for painting skills, I would never achieve this result!

My hard earned walnut (I don’t know another expression for « a lot of work ») is still proudly showing its grain.


But as you mention, I do use the spray can from the picture to highlight most of my forestry tools. This is a necessity. But I can take the risk of not painting the box itself as I am only lumber jacking on the family property. Therefore if I forget the box somewhere...it should stay there until I bump into it again, hopefully!


And thanks a lot for the kind invitation, I am always keen to wander in the North American wilderness!


Thanks a lot for the warm support Scott (and I apologise for the clumsy joke)