Milwaukee Oscillating Multi Tool?

[Carroll Courtney]

Guys with my home projects growing to prepare for the sale of our house, my mind is telling me I need this tool. I am already set up for Milwaukee M18 which is one of the reason for going with this tool. Watching several You tubes on what it will do, I am wondering if what I see on TV is true or not. Besides wood I need to cut some ceramic floor tile, steel, little concrete to make repairs to my slab to prep for vinyl planks, so no telling what else. I am guessing there is a ton of blades to choose from which just like a table saw blade the right blade makes a big difference. So my question is, is this tool worth spending money on and which blades to buy. I figure that the blades that comes with tool maybe is not that good, so is there a brand name of blades?
Oh I also see that it will also sand up into corners which is a plus. Where is best place on net to purchase will budget shopper in mind?
HD-219.00 Tool only
Amazon- 109.00 Tool only

[Matt Day]

I’d use an angle grinder for most of that. Multi tool has place, but it’s a small one.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

No, an oscillator saw is not as good as they claim. A milwaukee is near the bottom of the prefered tool list, and the blades needed to perform the various tasks will be surprisingly expensive.

That all being said, they are useful and you will not regret having one. Sounds like you need a grinder instead of an oscillator though.

[Dan Rude]

I am on both M12/M18 platforms. The Fuel models are the best, in my opinion with their Quick Release. I just have both M12 models and like the new one for the quick release. The vibration and power is better in the new modesl. I keep a common wood blade in my older one for work. Blade selection is based on what you are doing, plaster, drywall I can use my worn out wood blades or cheap blades. I like the Bosch the best, followed by Fein. I do not have much time using the newer Milwaukee blades, but so far are holding up really well. The metal cutting blades are great, but wear really quick. I use a angle grinder or sawsall if I can get to the nail. Good luck. Dan

[Richard Hart]

M18 Fuel-only way to go... that said, I'm Milwaukee through and through but the multi-tool was too expensive.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-FUEL-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Brushless-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Tool-Only-2836-20/314292748
Couldn't see it.. not for the bare tool.
Wound up with this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/SKIL-Pwrcore-20-Brushless-20V-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Kit/1003166082
Totally complete with everything. Had done my detective work and it had good reviews so I went that route. Works great 👌

[Lee Schierer]

I've used my Bosch multi tool for a variety of jobs.
I've cut nails to removed boards during remodeling with the carbide tipped blades
I shortened metal top hat duct work on my HVAC system in tight spaces.
I made plunge cuts to install door jamb light switches for closet lights.
I trimmed door trim for installing tile without removing the trim.
I scraped adhesive residue from the wood flooring when removing vinyl tile.
I removed putty around windows before recaulking.

What didn't work well:
was removing sanded grout with the tile cutter blades.
cutting large nails takes its toll on the carbide blades.
Hitting a nail with wood cutting blades ruins them and carbide blades tend to create smoke when cutting wood.

With all the above, there is a purpose for the multi tools and it does a job most others can't handle. I don't think it would work well for cutting ceramic tile.

I can't speak for the quality of Milwaukee tools as I only own a Milwaukee hammer drill, which has performed well with my minimal use. The Bosch multi tool has quite a few hours on it and it is still going strong.

[Jim Becker]

I bought a "multi-tool" for a specific job and it did well for that. I've used it for a few other things when it seemed like the right tool for the job. They do some things well for sure, especially when there is access/close quarters involved. But I'd choose a bigger, more powerful tool over it when that tool can "fit", from a physical standpoint. In other words, I'm glad I own one, but it's not my "go to" most of the time.

[Keith Outten]

I use Milwaukee battery tools exclusively. The multi-tool is one that I use frequently, mostly because I have a CNC router and use the tool to cut tabs on almost every job. Other than CNC work I use the multi-tool about as frequent as everyone else, they can be a life saver in certain situations and spend lots of time on the shelf as well.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

The reason I dislike the Milwaukee ossilator is the design of the tool. It's battery is on an angle so the tool won't stand up, the switch is really poorly designed compared to most others, and blade changing is primitive. Dewalt and makita make far better cordless ossilators.

[George Yetka]

I bought a fein corded one about 5 years ago. And have used it 2 times. Still glad I have it though, the 2 times saved me alot of work. I haven't ended up doing alot of house projects yet. The house was in good living condition when i moved in. I did however (knowing I didnt use the corded one barely at all) buy the milwaukee corded 12volt. My work situation moved me from being 50/50 field /office to 100% office. This also had me trading in my truck and taking over my fathers Yukon. I still wanted tools though so I limited myself to one tool bag. I bought a milwaukee 12 volt impactor and multi tool to go with my small hand tools(handyman bag)

Multi tool is a master at cutting wood/sheetrock/ and a couple other things in place everything else it isn't the best tool.

[Stan Calow]

Same as George. I thought I had to have one, but have only used it a few times. A sawzall is better for cutting many things. And the little Dremel saw (like a small circular saw) better for cutting long straight lines. But I still can't seem to part with the multi-tool.

[Carroll Courtney]

Thanks for all replies, it is on the expensive side maybe due to supply. Think going pass on this for now, find another way take care some of my projects. Yea I was thinking that size would help get in those small places and cut out door trim for tile to slide under.

[Jack Frederick]

I look at my Fein MT as the tool I can’t afford to use. This based solely upon the cost of blades. When you need it, and it is the best option, it comes out. I looked at reviews of the Milwaukee MT and they steered me clear of the buy. I, too, am on the M12 & M18 trolley and very happy with those tools I do have. One of my go to’s is the M12 Sawz-all. You might find that could fill in for some of your proposed. MT jobs.
My friend, about the best GC I’ve run acrossed, has come to a point where as he says, he hates buying tools. i pull out my fancy and expensive Fein and he pulls out his $30+/- Harbor Freight model which has worked really well for him. Save on the tool so you can afford the blades.

[Warren Lake]

not a believer in the cheap stuff. I had to do one modification to a job on site and knew it was a one time cut so tried a princess auto electric die grinder, new it had issues, changed it for another and both were the same, In the shop there are air die grinders. It went against my never buy a cheap tool but thought it is one time and that is it. Got the job done but I still have to look at it when I walk past sitting with all the die grinders that work well.

[Alan Lightstone]

I have a Fein that has sat unused for years. I view it as a space occupying lesion.

There is a small number of tasks it is good for, but that's it.

[Warren Lake]

I dont see the Fein that way, you do custom work then there will be a time you need a thing and it saves you. I can go a long time not needing the belt sander having a stroke sander but the odd time its needed it does the work excellent so fine that it sits between

[Rick Potter]

I'm with Jack. I have a Fein I picked up in a package used tool buy. I think I have used it two or three times because of the blade costs. I usually find other ways to do the job.

[Alan Schwabacher]

It does sound as if what you want is an angle grinder.

Oscillating tools have limited uses, but if you need to do those things, they are useful. If you can borrow one to try, you can see if it's worth it to you.

Or, not everyone agrees with this idea, but you can get a corded one from Harbor Freight for $10 or $20 to see if it does anything you want. You can easily imagine the greater power, convenience, reliability, and the lower vibration of a better brand.

[Tom M King]

To do a precise, to be left in sight when finished, cut in tile, I use a Dremel with the diamond cutting wheel. It's slow, and the wheels cost about $25 each, for maybe 5 lineal feet of cutting life, but with a steady hand, leaves a nice unchipped line. A shop vacuum can catch all the dust.

Sometimes the multi-tool is the right tool for different jobs, but it's a last chance choice. Cheap cutters last about as long as you would think they would. I use some longer, carbide ones for cutting some nails when the piece, like a 200 year old siding board, needs to be saved. Other times, it gets the call because a grinder disk would make too much mess. Bosch is my first choice for cutters, too.

I have a tailed Makita that I see no need to replace. It should have died a dusty death long ago, but keeps on oscillating.

[Jim Dwight]

I have four oscillating tools including a M12 Milwaukee. I use the Milwaukee the most. I also use a DeWalt when volunteering at church and used it earlier today. My 4 are an old HF corded I basically never use, a Ryobi cordless I use for cutting drywall because it does it well and I don't want the dust in my better ones, a Fein corded model and the Milwaukee. The milwaukee cuts wood at essentially the same speed as the Fein, significantly quicker than the others. I haven't tested it versus the DeWalt but they are probably similar. I like the Milwaukee better than the DeWalt but I agree the DeWalt is a good tool.

My last use of the Milwaukee was late last week. I had a rotted pieces of soffit plywood to cut out and replace. It was far quicker to cut it out with the Milwaukee oscillating saw than it would have been with any other tool. I also have multiple reciprocating saws and jigsaws and plenty of hand saws. But the oscillating saw was the best for this situation. Thin 1/4 plywood so the oscillating saw cut it easily and was easy to control. Reciprocating saw would have worked but would have been like using a sledge hammer where you need a hammer.

Today I needed a hole for some cords to come out the back of a shop cabinet. I should have drilled a larger hole but the church doesn't have many spade bits and I used the biggest one without measuring the plugs on the cords. So I got out the DeWalt and used the bimetallic blade on it to make a larger rectangular opening in 3/4 plywood. Four pretty quick plunges and I was done. Didn't make a perfect hole but it is in the back of a shop cabinet so it's plenty good enough.

I have a grit blade for ceramic but I agree with the other comments that for the most part there are better ways to cut tile. I might use the grit blade to touch up or fine tune a cut but I wouldn't try cutting a 12 inch tile with it. I use a grinder with an abrassive blade mostly. The carbide blades do surprisingly well in steel but are expensive and I would not try and do long cuts with them either. But I have had situations where they were very handy. Mostly I cut wood with my oscillating tools. I also find them very handy to make precise holes in drywall for electrical boxes, however. I've used mine to cut off trim when fitting tile. I can do it with a flush cut hand saw but it is a lot easier with the oscillating tool.

Milwaukee blades are also pretty good. Bimetallic blades will not cut hardly any metal before going dull, however. Doesn't matter the brand. Carbide will last a little while. Milwaukee wood cutting blades are good - as are others. I think I like the Fein the best.

If you want to get one, I think the Milwaukee would be a great choice, especially since you already have batteries. Blade changes do not require tools and are pretty quick. Good power and control. There are other good ones but I don't think any are enough better to invest in another battery platform.

[Keith Outten]

There is at least one YouTube video about how to sharpen multi-tool blades using a jewelers file.

[Clint Baxter]

I have a corded Fein and a Fuel M12 Milwaukee. I also used to have the M12 predecessor that was available before they released the Fuel version. Since getting the Fuel M12, I haven't touched the old one other than to get it out to give it away to one of my sons. The Fuel is quieter, has better speed control, less vibration and toolless blade changing. Unless I have a lot of cutting to do, such as trimming back door jambs and other items when installing flooring, the M12 will invariably get put into use.

I just ended up having to use the non-Fuel M12 on a trip to the son's place, (far away from my home tools), and though it got the job done, reminded of how glad I am that I sprang for the M12 Fuel version.

Clint

[Warren Lake]

Keith I sharpen my sawzall stuff. its faster and easier than a trip to the depot. Have 10 Axe blades that when done are 85 percent as good as new. PLus i like the old ones before the nanny state anti kick back stuff as they cut faster. Just an air die grinder and a cut off wheel, hardest thing is getting a comfortable work position to get the wheel in and not get too wild.

[Aaron Rosenthal]

I was a general contractor and as I got older, went to just handyman work.
I have a fein corded and have never been tempted to get the Milwaukee even though all my portable tools are Milwaukee.
When I need the versatility of the fein, nothing else can take it’s place. Even if it’s a year between uses, it’s there and ready to go.
The cost of blades? Give me a break! Universal blades are everywhere.

[Keith Outten]

Keith I sharpen my sawzall stuff. its faster and easier than a trip to the depot. Have 10 Axe blades that when done are 85 percent as good as new. PLus i like the old ones before the nanny state anti kick back stuff as they cut faster. Just an air die grinder and a cut off wheel, hardest thing is getting a comfortable work position to get the wheel in and not get too wild.


Thanks Warren, I will give the idea of sharpening my sawzall blades some thought. Initially I was considering machining a matched set of grooved solid surface blocks (sawtooth design) that would slide together for the movement and take care of the spacing. Just need to come up with a mount for the grinder and depth adjustment. I could also consider a sliding jig blade holder with an engraved scale that would probably work for both style blades.

The same type of jig would also work for multi tool blades if I could adjust the height.