Stuart Batty collet handle

[Richard Dooling]

I recently acquired a like new Stuart Batty collet tool handle. Unfortunately the collets are the older style offered by Woodworkers Emporium - the newer ones are 1/64" smaller diameter to provide greater gripping power and I have a couple on order.

My question is how tight is tight enough? I'll be using Trent Bosch hollowing tools as well as 1/2" and 5/8" bowl and spindle gouges. (I have other handles for a few larger tools.)
It seems to me that at those diameters the rotational force of a catch, while significant, shouldn't be strong enough to spin the shaft in a well snugged up handle.

Has this been an issue for anyone? Any advice?

Thanks

[roger wiegand]

I made a couple handles using the Robust collets. I find it doesn't matter how tight I make them, they loosen up just a little in use. Hope yours don't do that. Never had one come loose due to a catch, it seems to just be the low level vibration in normal use.

[Richard Dooling]

Thanks Roger. That's something I wouldn't have expected. I'll monitor this while turning.

[John K Jordan]

I know nothing about the Batty or Robust collets. I make my handle inserts from aluminum, brass, or steel and use two set screws. I have never had a tool loosen.

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JKJ

[Pat Scott]

I have the ER25 and ER32 handles. With the ER25 I just snug it up and it holds just fine. My ER32 on the other hand I have to give it a hard tight twist, but it still seems to loosen on it's own. So far I've only used the ER32 handle with a 3/4" shank Carter & Son NRS so I'm not sure how the other collets are. I'm thrilled to hear that Woodworkers Emporium is selling collets that are 1/64" smaller because that's exactly what I need and have been looking to buy. A quick tip: putting grease or something similar on the collar threads helps the collar tighten up.

[Richard Dooling]

Hi John,
I've never had an issue with set screws either. This is my first collet based handle and now I'm wondering if it will be as convenient as I thought. It LOOKED so easy in the video. I was hoping I could quickly remove a gouge for sharpening without the inconvenience of a long handle at the grinder.

I've made some handles but your milled inserts look great and I do have a mini metal lathe.

[Richard Dooling]

Thanks Pat,

BTW the ER32 collets are reasonably priced at $8.95 and the ER32s are $8.25 plus shipping.
https://www.woodworkersemporium.com/brands/SB-Tools.html

[John K Jordan]

Hi John,
I've never had an issue with set screws either. This is my first collet based handle and now I'm wondering if it will be as convenient as I thought. It LOOKED so easy in the video. I was hoping I could quickly remove a gouge for sharpening without the inconvenience of a long handle at the grinder.

I've made some handles but your milled inserts look great and I do have a mini metal lathe.

Are the collets open on the ends so the tool can be sunk deeply into the handle? Some "pro" handles I considered were not and only let you grip a short bit of the end of the tool. This is not attractive to me. For spindle tools I like to sink the shaft into a hole far inside the handle so the amount that sticks out is consistent from tool to tool, even when a tool is shortened by sharpening. Also, since I often turn one-handed, I generally like a smaller amount of tool extended from the handle than some. I also want a small diameter connection to the handle since again, when turning one-handed, I grip the tool right at the end of the handle. A big collet would not interest me for THIS type of turning. Maybe for a large bowl where I often grip the handle with two hands...

The inserts are easy to make. After buying a few commercially made, I decided to make my own. One reason was all those available at the time were made from 1" diameter aluminum stock. I thought this was unreasonable for a smaller tool like a 1/4" spindle gouge, making the end harder to grip and the tool harder to control, especially when turning one-handed. I've made some pretty small especially for 1/4" gouges - this makes the wall thickness for the set screws fairly thin so I make these out of steel so I don't risk stripping the threads out of aluminum.

For those without a metal lathe, these are easily turned from aluminum or brass with standard HSS woodturning tools. I have a demo planned for that for when our club starts meeting in person again. (if using brass, use 360 "free machining" brass. I buy from OnLine Metals: https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/brass/0-75-brass-round-bar-360-h02-extruded/pid/1266
For aluminum, I use this in various sizes: https://www.onlinemetals.com/buy/aluminum/0-75-aluminum-round-bar-6061-t651-cold-finish/pid/12897

JKJ

[Richard Dooling]

Yes the collets are open and seem to be very well made. I'm hoping that the newer slightly smaller diameter will improve holding on the shaft. I may try roughing up the shafts with coarse sandpaper.

I'll definitely be lifting your design for turned inserts. Thanks for the onlinemetals tip as a supply source and for the link so I can see what alloys you are using.

Richard

[John K Jordan]

Yes the collets are open and seem to be very well made. I'm hoping that the newer slightly smaller diameter will improve holding on the shaft. I may try roughing up the shafts with coarse sandpaper.

I'll definitely be lifting your design for turned inserts. Thanks for the onlinemetals tip as a supply source and for the link so I can see what alloys you are using.

Richard

And BTW, I have NOT forgotten about your scraper. I have the drawing of the profile on my desktop with your name on it. Just haven't gotten to it yet... :(

JKJ

[Dave Fritz]

I have the Robust ER25 and they work great. In fact when removing the tool to sharpen I have to tap the bottom of the handle to loosen the shaft so it will come out. Can't speak to the larger one.

[David M Peters]

I'm another person with the Robust ER25 collets an am happy with them. I don't have the ER32 version. Just once in a few years of turning have I had a gouge slip in the collet.

Tip - check eBay for inexpensive collets!