Re-runs from the Dungeon Wood shop

[steven c newman]

Due to the fact that I am now on the "DL" from the shop...and it might be a few weeks or even months before a new project can be started.....:( Thinking maybe a Summer Rerun like the TV Networks used to run.....even This Old House does a rerun....So....I'll go back a ways, and dig up a decent "Weekend Project" and re-post it.

So, first one is about a simple, little table...made from "left over" lumber ( of your choice IF you want to build along)

First off, I wanted to build a top for the table...then I can size the rest to that....had 3 boards that LOOKED like they might work as a table top...problem was the edges were a bit wavy, and the boards taper along their length
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The "Before"..can be straightened out with either a couple trips along a rip fence, or just a jointer plane...
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And the "After"....then glue the 3 boards up into a panel....use cauls if needed..let it sit a day. next day, come back remove the clamps, and work on getting the faces looking good
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Can be done with a beltsander....or just a plane....do both faces....best one to be the "show" face..
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Hmmm..methinks this will be the underside of the top....up to you. Sit this aside for a while....will come back to it to add Bread Board ends later....I sometimes leave a caul in place, just to keep things flat....

Ok..the stash of leftovers did not have anything thick enough to make 4 legs from.....have enough 1 x 6 planks to just rip a few 1-1/2" wide strips...
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Enough to make 4 pairs....match the grain patterns up...book match if you want....hmmm, would take a lot of clamps to face glue 4 leg blanks...so..
464053
Still needs 5 clamps. match the first pair, moosh some glue between the 2...carry on for the other 3 pairs...try to keep things leveled and aligned...let sit a day...
464054
Remove from the clamps...these are not perfectly square, nor are the ends....and they are all a tad too long...rip fence set to the narrower side, run the fatter side through....leave the fence sit, run all 4 legs through....check for any fatter ones. Goal is to have 4 SQUARE legs....Next...ends..want all 4 legs the same length..
464055
This is how I do it...gang all 4 up, square one end, turn around, and then cut all 4 to the required length....

So ends Part one. I can continue working on the legs, as they will get tapered on two faces, then a double bead down one corner...the one that does not have any tapers going on. Bread board edge for the top, can be done next, I prefer to have the base done first though...to better size the top to the base. Aprons and a drawer will also get involved...Mortise & Tenons...Dovetails...dados..oh my.....:D

Stay tuned for Episode #2: Tapered Legs.:D

[steven c newman]

Ok...decide what width the aprons need to be....in this case between 4-5" wide...So, the taper "Start" line will begin about ~1" below that. where is up to you. Also TRYING for a 1" square foot....sometimes they turn out to be 3/4" square,,,,
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Also, any bad spots in the leg blanks, make sure they are included in the WASTE side of the line...
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I used a bandsaw to rough things out...then clean up to the line with a couple planes..
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Which means a jig to hold things still..
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Get things close with the fancy Jack plane, then a couple passes with a smooth plane..
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So I won't need to sand them...doesn't really take all that long, just have to keep track of which face gets a taper...
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On some of these tables, I will run the beading plane down the outside, "Show" corner, so that it looks like rope....on this simple table, I simply ran a cove down that corner..
464067
Just a cove bit in the router. My Stanley 45 was unable to do coves...

Next up? Size a couple aprons, and mill their tenons....then chop the mortises to match....not all will be the same...due to a drawer in the front...

Stay tuned..

[Jebediah Eckert]

I love it, thread reruns!

[steven c newman]

Since all I am allowed to do is just sit here....not allowed any shop time...so...need aprons next?
464082
I used the table's top to layout the lengths for the aprons. Need to "plot" where the legs would be, and figure in the length of the tenons...1/2" seemed about right. Hand saw to make a few cuts, already had the blank for the drawer front...just needed to trim it a bit..
464083
D-8 took care of things...then layout where the tenons will go...mitre box to make the shoulder cuts..
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Plus how deep to make the cut...
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Layout the cheek cuts....this is all after making sure all aprons are the same width....so, cheek cuts? not exactly..
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Just as fast and accurate to split off most of the waste, with a mallet and chisel, then fine tune things with a rebate plane..
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I like the wood ones best. Tenons then get a notch made..
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I think that will about do it for one day?
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As the drawer front gets a bit different approach....the bottom rail ( under the drawer front) also will get a bead milled along it's bottom edge, to match the bottom edges of the other aprons..

But that is a story for tomorrow...Stay tuned..:D

[steven c newman]

Beads? Stanley No. 45 set up with a bead cutter...fence to guide things along the bottom edge
464095
just the bottom edge, as one along the top edge won't be easy to see, and might confuse things during assembly..:rolleyes:
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The drawer divider under the drawer front gets a bead as well....more on those 2 holes later....
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tenons done, time to set up to do a bit of chopping..
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I use the tenon to mark where the mortise needs to be, 2 squares are set up to mark out the layout lines....mortise chisel of your choice..be prepared, though, Ash does NOT like to be chopped
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Keep a hone handy, and a "back-up" chisel.....
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All laid out, and ready to go..mallet of your choice...
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Then test for fit...
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Sometimes, it merely takes a bit of scraping the floor of the mortise, as a high spot might be holding things up a hair...one done...just sit back and work your way around the back..
Then round to the other side..front will need something a bit different...
Stay tuned :D

[steven c newman]

Doesn't take all that long...besides, I get to sit down. Easier on the back, than standing up, and bent over the work...anyway, I just work my way around, from left front to right front leg,,,
464103
Goal is to have the two side assemblies done and ready for a glue up....The back?
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Once fitted to both back legs, can be set aside for a while...

Drawer runners...get glued to the inside of the side aprons..flush with the bottom edge...
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This was just a dry fit..runner is notched to go around the leg...Then add some glue and two legs..watching that they are the correct legs, and you are in the correct mortise...
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Vise being just wide enough to hold both legs, while I clamp things together...then set aside, while the other side gets glued up...
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Let these sit overnight. have found these table bases are easier to glue up as a series of assemblies....rather than trying to herd cats by doing it all at once...

While I'm at it, set up to make corner blocks...Mitre box.
.464108
Length of Pine scrap...once the first one is cut to size, use it to cut the other 3..
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Drill 2 holes in each block, at a 45 degree. Goal is to come out the other side at a 90 degree to the apron...countersink the holes...
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Otherwise, a screw's head might stick out too far...Blocks will get glued and screwed at the top of the aprons, right where they meet the leg...blocks are long enough, they do not need a notch to fit around the leg. Blocks then get a slot drilled, so the top can be attached. Blocks also help square up the base..

That will do for today...stay tuned...

[steven c newman]

Which to do....? glue up the base, next.....or bread board that top panel.....either will take up shop space, clamps, and time....Hmmm...May just get the base glued up.....

Removed the clamps from the sides....will need them in a little bit..Prep work involved a counter-bored pilot hole on each end of the drawer divider, a screw is used to attach it to the drawer runner, along with a spot of glue...
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Might as well sit this on the table's top...Back is clamped and glued between the 2 end....drawer divider is screwed and glued at the front...check for square
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Rail above the drawer opening gets attached to the corner blocks, with a screw, and a dab of glue on each end..
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The other 2 corner blocks go here. These all help square up the base.
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Takes the place of that diagonal clamp....will let this mess sit a day....


Bread board....not the fanciest way, or the more "Traditional" way....up to you which you feel like doing...for this little table top...
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I wanted 2 strips the same width...thought it might look better IF they were from the same board...

They get attached to the top, with a tongue & groove joint. Tongue can be cut with a cutter in a Stanley 45, can be milled with a Stanley #78, can be done on the tablesaw ( takes too many passes) or with a router

Same applies to the groove the tongue will fit into...
464172
You do not want a super tight fit, to where a mallet is needed....just splits off one side of the groove...test fit as you go..
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Looking for a nice "slip fit". and no gaps where it meets the top....take your time doing this. Once both ends were done and fitted...a bit of glue and a couple clamps were used..
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Pipe clamps wanted to pull the ends out a bit. Clamped a caul to keep things flat...let this sit a day...

When these all come out of the clamps, will have a few tasks to do......Top will need planed smooth, a kicker made up, and installed.....Then the top can be installed..and the sharp square corners cut round.

Then, maybe start on a drawer? Stay tuned :D

[steven c newman]

Hmmm, ok....removed the clamps from the base and the top...top does need a little work...
464261
A few high spots, glue joint clean up....this just might be the show side..
464262
This is looking more like the underside...

Base: need a drill to mill four slots. Poke the drill bit through each corner block, then rock forward and backward, until a slot forms....goal is to allow the screw going through to stay put, and simply lean a little bit as the top moves...
464263
And a look under the"hood"
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I wanted a kicker, to keep the drawer from tipping down....a screw in the middle, with a dab of glue...can have a spot of glue on the ends, too...

Back on top....them square corners need to go away....need a way to draw radius..
464265
The Rustoleum Corner Template....since the top is now attached to the base, need something to make the cuts....
464266
Works for me....too much to beltsand off, but....it can be cleaned up with the sander...or just a spokeshave...as a sabre saw blade has a bad habit of bending a bit.....
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I cut the front two corners first, then turned the table around and cut and cleaned up the back two....then the corded router took a round-over bit around the edges..
464268
Holes in the front, bottom drawer divider got a matching 3/8" tapered plug glued in...letting that dry for a while.....spent the rest of the day getting parts for the drawer made..

That will be in the next episode..maybe even two episodes?

Stay tuned...

[steven c newman]

464278
Since I already had a drawer front made....needed stock for the 2 sides and the back..
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Pins first in this shop..
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How YOU do these is up to you...either saw &chisel...Maybe a handheld router, and lay these out by the MK1 Eyeball ( wear goggles!), or on a router table, or jig...I use these pins to lay out the tails
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With a bunch of cuts over on the bandsaw...Chisel to extract the waste...remember to saw on the waste side of the lines, the more line you leave, the better the fit...
464282
Which leaves grooves to be milled, to house the plywood bottom..
464283
I used the Stanley 45, with a #12 cutter. Trying to get to 3/8" deep....front and the 2 sides..
464284
As the back will just sit on the plywood bottom, screwed in place. Dry fit?
Stay tuned...:D

[steven c newman]

But, how does the back connect to the sides? First the mitre box makes a few saw cuts...
464285
How you remove the waste is up to you....chisel? Reset the #45? or..
464286
Maybe a cordless router?
464287
Mine were done by using a chisel to pop out the waste, then the #71-1/2 to smooth and level the floors of the dados...

Now that dry fit...IF you have the plywood cut to fit...if not, you will find out what size you need...
464288
Before a glue up can occur, though..I need a few pilot holes done...
464289
Cordless drills? Usually 3 holes down the center of the dado....drilled from the inside. Not too worried about any "blowout" from the bit. Just want the holes centered, and NOT in the groove, either...then flip each over...
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And run the counter sink bit a bit.....so the heads of the screws will not stick out... NOW things can be glued up...plywood the correct size?
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Drawer is narrow enough, only 2 clamps needed for the dovetailed corners....the back is glued and screwed into the dados.....flip this over, check for square ( framer square works great, a touch of toe-in is ok )
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I call this a starter bevel....makes things easier to insert a full drawer into a case, instead of bumping around until it does go in...

Let this sit overnight.....with just the two clamps up front..I have been known to stash a drawer glue up in the case where it will go...IF I have a few to glue up.

Almost done, need some sort of handle, to open the drawer with...and some sort of finish?

Stay tuned..:D

[steven c newman]

Keeping with the "Leftover" theme...Handle choices were from just that..left overs from other projects..
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Hmmm...not quite right...
464460
Maybe one of these?


Table itself needed a way for me to reach all the spots to apply a stain to..
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This wasn't too bad, but, how about that top?
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Final sanding, a wipe down, and a brush on -wipe off coat of stain...

Drawer is out of the clamps...cleaned up around the dovetails...checked for the fit of the drawer..
464463
Then...about a handle...
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Seems the old brass plating was about worn off....went ahead and wire wheeled the rest off....sanded the wood a bit, even that it would take a bit of stain....Drilled the 2 holes for the mounting bolts...
464465
Decided to shellac the table...before the varnish...
464466
making the grain pop a bit better....letting this dry a day or two....will be back after the varnish has dried....

Stay tuned...( just a simple, weekend project?):D

[steven c newman]

So...how did this little project turn out?


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Front view
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Back of the table...
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Top of the table...
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And a view from the end...just a simple little end table..maybe a weekend to build?

Will go back through the "Archives" and see what else I could find....stay tuned....

[steven c newman]

464588
Next Project? May start a new thread, or..just keep going with this one? Box is made out of Poplar, BTW
464589
Might have a scary picture in this one...
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We'll see...

[steven c newman]

Would appear, while going through the Archives....that I had bought enough Project Boards to make 2 of these boxes.....one with through dovetails, and the other with Finger/box joints....both used a set of grooves to split off the lids, and make a dust seal.....

In that last photo....I am sitting down on the shop stool....much easier on my back, since I am NOT bent over the bench, looking down my nose.....
464608

BTW, when I am sawing on two parts at the same time...I really do not want them to move about, while I am getting both into the vise...so..
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Simply because that the layouts were also done on both at the same time, so they would match....
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My fancy-schmansy Work Station....YMMV...