Preferred method for jointing shop sawn veneer??

[Sean Moore]

What is everyones preferred method for edge jointing shop sawn veneer? I have several sheets approx. 65" long that I need to joint together for a seamless edge. Its pretty good off the jointer but definitely needs some fine tuning to be a perfect seamless fit.

[John TenEyck]

My shop sawn veneer is generally 1/16" and seaming is straight forward with the jointer, but I have occasionally sandwiched pieces together between two MDF cauls that have been jointed straight and used a router and flush cut bearing bit. Shorter pieces can be jointed between cauls with a sanding block or hand plane, if necessary.

John

[Tai Fu]

How thick is it?

You can perhaps fine tune it with a hand plane or a sanding block on a shooting board. Take off very small materials at a time.

If it's really thin it becomes real challenging... if even possible at all.

[Jamie Buxton]

I generally use a power jointer, but a hand plane works too. Put the stack of veneer down flat on a piece of plywood on the bench, with the edge of the stack projecting a bit off the edge of the plywood. Put another piece of plywood on top of the stack. Weight it or clamp it down. I have a bunch of old sash weights. Run the plane along the edge. I have a 22” jointer plane, but a 13” plane does darn well.

[Mark e Kessler]

I put them between two cauls and cut on the slider with a 120 tooth blade i do this with commercial raw veneer as well and it always comes out perfect, there are a few videos on my ig of this method

Have also done the cauls and a hand plane or even block plane, caul and router, caul with sanding block (least preferred)

[Kevin Jenness]

On a slider between cauls or with a router in a jig with a curved strongback to provide even compression along the length of the leaves. Veneer needs to be held flat when jointing so that the joint remains straight when pressed. This is usually more of a concern with sliced veneer but the principle holds true whatever the thickness.

Some people have reported good results using a track saw.

[Brian Holcombe]

I just put them all together as a pack and joint the whole group at once.

[johnny means]

Slider here. I find that the jointer can get trick if the veneer is not perfectly flat. Also, the slider allows me to cut exactly to my line. On a lot of my work the slightest discrepancy will show, the slider allows me to take off exactly how much I need to, where I need it.

[Joe Hendershott]

I also just tape them all together and then cut on the slider. I tried on the jointer and it worked okay but just easier for me on the saw.

[John TenEyck]

In the next life I'm definitely getting a slider!

John

[roger wiegand]

I clamp them together between a couple of boards and take a few passes with a jointer plane.

[Michelle Rich]

With a hand plane or my favorite with a track saw.

[Chris Padilla]

Like most here: sandwich between two boards so just a frog hair is proud and then joint.
My favorite jointer is a 12" block of poplar with some sandpaper glue to it. It is about 2" x 2" square, carefully jointed.
I find I use this simple tool an amazing amount around the shop.

[Alan Kalker]

Hinged two boards together and jointed them. Then added some self sticking sandpaper on the inside of both to avoid slippage. Clamp the two pieces of veneer between the hinged boards and run a hand planer over them on a light setting. Works beautifully.

[Mick Simon]

I also do it on a slider sandwiched between two boards. I've also had very good success doing the same thing on an oscillating edge sander.

[Jeff Roltgen]

Festool tracksaw. I keep a dedicated fine-cut blade just for this task. Climb cut (hey! I don't have a slider with scoring blade!).
Super fast, easy - just lay them on a scrap particle board surface. Works perfectly every time in my experience.