What wall material for new shop, what about slatwall?

[cody michael]

I am in the process of building a polebarn, inside I am sectioning off a 20x30 shop area I will build walls, insulate etc. Two questions.

What did you use for the wall sheathing, I was thinking of going with plywood (poly it, easy to hang stuff etc), however the cost is crazy! How does drywall hold up? I can get 5/8's drywall for a 1/4-1/3 of the price.

I have slatwall in my garage and love it, I was thinking of running it around my shop, does it work well in a wood shop? Should I run it all the way around or just a small section? I see Menards has a good deal on made in America slatwall, anybody have any ideas how it compares to other brands?

The sides of the room that go up to the exterior wall, if I can't afford spray foam what is the next best idea? if I put a thinner styrofoam outside of the studs and fiberglass in between would that get a lot of the effect of sprayfoam?

[Alan Lightstone]

I only have it on one wall, but really like it, and like the look. If possible, I would have used more.

I bought the Rubbermaid FastTrack version. Certainly not cheap, but well built.

[Jim Becker]

Honestly, if I were doing this at the present time, even with costs coming down, I'd also consider drywall with a French cleat system for wall storage. In a post frame structure, one can also plan the horizontal girt spacing and sizing to reflect what you want to hang that has weight, too, just like you might use blocking in a regular stud wall.

For your insulation, closed cell spray foam has the best structural benefit, but many post frame structures no used as living space are insulated with R19 fiberglass and a vapor barrier between the girts. (interior girts don't go in until the insulation is done. The insulation is sized to span between the posts and special large head fasteners are used to hold up the 'glas by engaging through the insulation to the exterior girts. Ceiling gets blown-in insulation over a vapor barrier that's placed prior to the ceiling material of choice. Personally, I'd prefer spray foam, but have no issue with the fiberglas, either. I'll actually be making this decision at some point when I get a building up.

[cody michael]

This is a metal building, not a traditional polebarn, so no upright 6x6's like a polebarn.

[Alan Lightstone]

Being way the heck North in Michigan (near the thumb, and my favorite, Bad Axe), insulation is going to be very important for you in winter. Jim's advice, as always, is quite good for the insulation. I think that's more important than the slatwall. And I forgot to mention French cleats, which is another great idea for adjustable/versatile storage. You could always do the drywall and put slatwall on top of it, if that's what you like.

[Jim Becker]

This is a metal building, not a traditional polebarn, so no upright 6x6's like a polebarn.

Similar techniques can be used, however. (I'll be doing the comparison between metal and wood post frame myself...cost is what's going to matter at that point as I'm fine with both and both tend to be less money than stick-built) With the metal building I'd think I'd prefer the closed cell spray foam envelope because the "walls" have a lot less space than wood post frame. There extra rigidity benefits are going to be more noticable, most likely and for sure it's helps eliminate the condensation issue that can happen with metal buildings...metal or wood frame, for that matter. With about 2.5" or so of space in the walls of many of the metal structures (I'm assuming car-port type, but if it's red iron, I apologize) the closed cell foam will get you nearly to R18. You can do the same up-top or got a little thicker. No need for a ceiling, either. Just make sure the mixture has the fire retardant and there's no issue with your local jurisdiction with it being exposed.

[cody michael]

Similar techniques can be used, however. (I'll be doing the comparison between metal and wood post frame myself...cost is what's going to matter at that point as I'm fine with both and both tend to be less money than stick-built) With the metal building I'd think I'd prefer the closed cell spray foam envelope because the "walls" have a lot less space than wood post frame. There extra rigidity benefits are going to be more noticable, most likely and for sure it's helps eliminate the condensation issue that can happen with metal buildings...metal or wood frame, for that matter. With about 2.5" or so of space in the walls of many of the metal structures (I'm assuming car-port type, but if it's red iron, I apologize) the closed cell foam will get you nearly to R18. You can do the same up-top or got a little thicker. No need for a ceiling, either. Just make sure the mixture has the fire retardant and there's no issue with your local jurisdiction with it being exposed.

The building is is much taller, I don't want to heat/insulate etc all the way, I am going to make a roof and have a small storage area above the shop. Thank I am going to try for Spray foam, that is my 1st choice, just depends on cost.

[Jim Becker]

Ah...I missed the connection to the other thread. The point that Doug just made over there is truly important if you're planning for storage above. Critical, even...

[cody michael]

Being way the heck North in Michigan (near the thumb, and my favorite, Bad Axe), insulation is going to be very important for you in winter. Jim's advice, as always, is quite good for the insulation. I think that's more important than the slatwall. And I forgot to mention French cleats, which is another great idea for adjustable/versatile storage. You could always do the drywall and put slatwall on top of it, if that's what you like.


Your like an hour a half from me!

[Alan Lightstone]

No, I'm not in Bad Axe. I just always loved the name of that city.

[Jack Frederick]

I went 1/2” plywood, but was recently shocked at the cost of same. I used 8’ sheets and put a 2’ on top with a horiz band. 10’ sheets were pricey back then, so the 8/2. I have like being able to tack, staple, screw wherever I want. The best part of the vertically set plywood is the ability to easily get back into the wall with a minimum of fuss. This was helpful when I had to add the wiring for my solar system. As well, I had to add a gas line I should have caught during construction, but so it goes. I am sure you will be a better planner than I and will never have to open the walls, but worth a thought.

[Jonathan Jung]

I second Jim re. the french cleats. So useful and can hold loaded cabinets without fasteners.

[Leigh Betsch]

I plan to go with T111 siding for my interior walls.

[Mike Rambour]

I went with drywall because I wanted it to look good. My old shop had plywood and that was much easier to hang things and move things around. I find myself thinking for days if I want to drill a hole in the drywall before actually doing it, but it sure looks good :)

New shop, I think I would go plywood with French cleats ever few inches to allow lots of movement.

[Roger Feeley]

OSB sheathing here. I can hang anything anywhere with a screw.

[Kris Cook]

I plan to go with T111 siding for my interior walls.

I drywalled my shop, fire-taped the bottom 4 feet, textured the ceiling and upper 5 feet (texture was because I didn't want to do a multi-stage tape and sanding process). I bought "shop grade" T-1 11 and cut the panels in half to make a 4' high wainscot. I used 1X4 MDF trim for the top rail and battens. Everything is screwed on so it can be replaced if needed. I think the panels will take the brunt of most scuffs and dents that drywall couldn't handle. Time will tell.

[Andrew More]

I went with a mix. I have a section with a built in bench from a previous own. Plywood over the top of that, that's where most of the tools went. I installed 5/8 fire rated drywall on the other walls where hanging things wasn't as important, because of the huge cost savings. One nice benefit to drywall is painting it white, which helps with lighting. You can also do this with plywood, but it doesn't look as good as natural, IMHO.

[George Yetka]

What about plywood on bottom 4' and leaving the rest exposed and either wait for prices to drop or fill it in with leftovers over time. This would let you wire all your courtesy outlets and machine outlets now and then its throw the rest in as it comes.

Also this will free up money for Spray foam

[cody michael]

Thanks everyone you have give me a lot to think about. I will need to do some research on french cleats, I have seen people talk about them before but never had an opportunity to use them.

With french cleats what do you use to hang small things like the little hooks on slat wall? do you just build your own fixtures?

[George Yetka]

Thanks everyone you have give me a lot to think about. I will need to do some research on french cleats, I have seen people talk about them before but never had an opportunity to use them.

With french cleats what do you use to hang small things like the little hooks on slat wall? do you just build your own fixtures?

French cleats can be added to any wall material as long as you hit studs. Just take 3/4 ply strip 3-4" wide with a 45 cut on one end and space them up the wall. then as you feel like it make contraptions to hold your tools. I have 30-40 items hangers made up everything from paper towel holders to clamp racks. I also have a seperate setup for yard tools. you could simply take a 2"x4" brad nail a small piece of 3/4 with a 45 cut on it to it and add a hook to it. then you can move it all over the place. this isnt mine but a good example
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[John Lifer]

On metal, spray foam is best way..... But as far as walls, it all depends on the construction of the metal building. I had a 30x30 that was red metal beam. While quick and great strength with the beams, the beam's internal angle made it impossible to really do inner wall well. This angle, along with the raised base panel made me go with separate internal wall where I wanted to enclose the area. I'd never build another that I expected to need to use the internal walls for storage. If straight vertical walls with straight horizontal beams, then I'd do the minimum right now. Things are coming down, but not fast. Sheetrock is actually not a bad idea, but if you are attaching a lot of heavy stuff, maybe a slat wall would be best.

[Steve Marcq]

OSB heathing for me. I rolled on some Kilz on the ground flat, then 2 coats of the cheapest white paint I could find. Screwed the panels up so I could pull them off to do future wiring. I can screw cleats etc anywhere I want! I did the ceiling the same way.

[Curt Harms]

Thanks everyone you have give me a lot to think about. I will need to do some research on french cleats, I have seen people talk about them before but never had an opportunity to use them.

With french cleats what do you use to hang small things like the little hooks on slat wall? do you just build your own fixtures?

French cleats are really simple and really versatile. They're just two strips of wood with complementary 45* bevels. I used good quality 3/4" plywood. I have a couple office cabinets hung with french cleats. The cleats are fastened to the wall using 5/16"" lag bolts into studs. The portion on the cabinet is mounted flush so the cabinet hangs tight against the wall. If used in a shop you could mount slat wall, peg board or about anything else you can imagine. Very versatile.

[Jim Becker]

Aside from the convenience that French cleats bring for easy repositioning, they also provide really strong support for whatever is hanging on them. It's not just the fasteners into the wall...the strength of the material that the French cleats are made from is added to the mix as well as how weight is distributed laterally, rather than on a few points through the wall.

[Anuj Prateek]

I considered similar options and settled on rockwool insulation and drywall. They seem to be most noise blocking based on my rudimentary tests. Price is an added advantage.

For on wall storage I prefer wall control pegboards. I like them placed where ever there is need. I find them more pleasing.

[John C Bush]

I used slatwall (3/4" MDF) on all shop walls--20+ yrs ago- got 25 sheets thru a friend in the biz~ the same cost as drywall and much easier to install. I built the shop with
old barn beams from the family farm and wanted to mimic the old corn cribs of my youth so cost and "style" made using it a reasonable
choice. I got used hangers/hardware at a display distributer @ very reasonable $$$. Over time I got a bit greedy and loaded the hangers-old Jorgy bar clamps mostly-
and the slats started separating. I made a hanging rack with metal for the heavy stuff and I still like the look but @ todays costs I think dry wall and French cleats
would be the way to go. Good way to use all those plywood offcuts, reconfiguring your shop is easy, and the cleats can hold more weight. Congrats on the new shop!
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[Pat Rice]

I used 3/4” Melanie on bottom 4’ of 2 of my walls and did slat-wall on one and 3/4” plywood with French cleats on the other. After a couple of years usage, I wish I had gone French cleats on both walls as it is easer to build and attach holders on the french cleat wall.