New Grizzly G0555LX Vibration

[Jeff Milos]

I received my bandsaw today. It went together well, but I feel like there's a lot of vibration coming from the top wheel. In my trouble shooting, I noticed that it looks off center referencing the center of the wheel to the bolt above (see video below). Is this amount of deviation normal, or how should I go about troubleshooting? It's not a staggering amount of vibration, but definitely more than I was anticipating.

https://youtu.be/9lbTkCyI9oc

[glenn bradley]

I visually see what you are talking about in the video. Watching the video, the sheet metal housing looks like it is pretty vibration free. I'm judging this by looking at the reflections in the textured paint which seems stable. What does the table and fence act like when you are experiencing what you are talking about? I'm trying to focus on actual vibration during operation as opposed to the visual image . . . which is disturbing but perhaps not operationally problematic(?).

[Tom Trees]

Guessing you have tried a few blades, from different sources I might add, or this just might be for someone else's benefit,
and would be a big waste of time to do if its simply the blade at fault.

On the other hand, should you have a lemon then it might be of interest...

Forgetting about the top wheel for the moment (seemingly non adjustable in terms of yaw adjustment)
How does it run without a blade on?
This might tell you a few things, should you notice vibration, it would suggest the bottom wheel is not lining up with the motor pulley.



You would likely have better results measuring this with suitable blade, the heaviest the saw can honestly take, provided it doesn't foul the beam,
and getting the wheels parallel with frame/co-planar,
You do need to keep an eye on things if you adjust anything, it changes everything, so clamping the beam on the top wheel is a bad idea,
rare earth magnets could be used to good effect though, provided your wheels are cast iron.

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I'd get a long straight edge with a block taped onto it, and offering it to the wheel rim to see if both matched up, in regards to yaw.
A hint mostly gleaned from watching Marc Spagnuolo. whereever he heard that tip from,
I'd find it interesting to know.


If you have no issues there, then I'd be using a long level or plumbob to level the machine and check wheel protrusion from the cabinet.
If using plumbobs make up some blocks, they could be just taped on to the machine and work as well, add some rubber bands also.
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Then you could do some other tests like so (better to use the head of the wheel bolt, but you get the point of wheel protrusion,
One can adjust for that if the front edge of the tire is rounded...
or if it wasn't lined up in the first place, the guidepost might not be in line with the blade (shouldn't have to adjust thrust guide when raising/lowering post)

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As said clamping the beam like in pic below does not work if you intend on doing adjustments.
It's just illustrating the plum bob again, to adjust for differing tire thickness, the top wheel can be adjusted L/R
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I haven't seen a way of doing this more thoroughly.

Best not have that belt tight, or risk damaging your motor bearings should it not be aligned with what I'm guessing is the non adjustable top wheel,
as if skewed might get tighter than it was before.

Repeat check for lower wheel vibration, then a check hand turning the wheels to see how the blade tracks on the wheels
and pray everything lines up.

All the best
Tom

[Curt Harms]

Here is how I would go about checking a bandsaw for vibration. Start at the motor and ‘work out’. Remove the band and drive belt from the motor to the lower wheel. Start the motor and pulley only. If there’s vibration you know where it’s coming from. If no vibration, replace the drive belt. Start the motor. If there’s vibration it’s likely either the belt or lower wheel. If no vibration replace the band. If there’s now vibration it pretty much has to be either the band or upper wheel, you’ve already checked the other parts. If I wanted to check the wheels for balance, I’d remove the drive belt and band so both wheels turn free. Make a mark on the rim of the wheel. Give the wheel a spin so it turns several revolutions. Make a mark on the frame next to the mark on the wheel. Spin the wheel again. If the marks come close to lining up again, the wheel is probably out of balance. If the mark on the wheel stops at random places relative to the mark on the frame the wheel is pretty well balanced.

This next part is I think. I think the heaviest part of the wheel will be near the bottom. Some people have taped weights opposite the heaviest part of the wheel so the top in this case. Things like lead fishing weights or washers might work. Try to get it so the wheel stops at random places, not the same place very time.

[Edward Weber]

I agree with Curt's method.
You have to go by process of elimination before you start chasing ghosts. Vibrations can start in one part and reveal themselves in another.
In your video you're seeing the result of something wrong not the cause necessarily.
i would start by contacting Grizzly so no matter what eventually happens the issue was put on record.

[Robert Hazelwood]

If it's not the motor or belt, then probably its the wheel(s) being out of round and/or out of balance. It's hard for me to tell from the video...I can see what you are saying about the wheel being off center but I don't think this would matter.

You can check the wheel balance on the saw as Curt described, but you are limited by the stiffness of the factory bearings, which if they are sealed-type can be quite high. You should be able tell if they are really bad though.

You can check for out-of-round with a dial indicator mounted to the saw frame and the tip on the outer tire surface at the center of the crown. If you see significant runout, you can try replacing the tires or sanding down the tires so they are true. If you do the latter, you need to maintain some sort of crown to keep the band running true.

[Bill Dufour]

The off center is there but only the rim matters. The casting is a little off. As long as the bore and the rim are concentric it matters little. I do not know if they did static or dynamic balancing. Probably just static or simple dynamic not full bore 3d balancing. Not much meat in the rim to drill into.
Bill D

[Alex Zeller]

My 514X2 Grizzly vibrated pretty badly when I got it. I decided I could get it better so I went down the same path that Curt has suggested but in a slightly different order. The first thing I did was remove the blade and turn it on. It's probably the easiest test you can do. By doing so it would point to the lower wheel/ motor or to the upper wheel or blade. With the blade off I had no vibrations so I looked at the upper wheel. I tried playing with almost everything without luck until I realized I hadn't looked at one important part, the tires.

Mine came with urethane ones that could be removed with a little work. Once removed I put the blade that came with it (not really a good blade so I didn't care if I damaged it) back on and the vibrations were gone. I mean I now could balance a nickel on edge, start it, let it get up to speed, and shut it off. I tried a dime but it kept rolling off the edge of the table. I didn't have Grizzly send me a new set but I'm sure they would have. Instead I bought a sex of Blue Max and they work great. Since doing so the saw has remained smooth as silk and the tracking has been perfect.

[Jonathan Jung]

I have a G0513X2 which vibrated and wobbled every blade I tried. You need to take the tires off and check the flats of the wheels under the tires. Using a dial indicator is best, but just a stick held against them while spinning will work. This is the reference point for the tires. If this area is round, then you're fine.

On my machine the issue was the stock tires. Absolute rubbish - not consistent in thickness and very hard. Upgraded to Urethane from Sulpher Tool and am much happier.