Band saw rehab

[brad hays]

Just got this ancient Grizzly 16" band saw for fairly cheap with the idea I need to replace just about everything to get it up to speed again. Right now I'm trying to get the wobble out of the machine (seen when running) and the first thing I'm gonna replace are the 2 drive belts. I've heard about a new (to me) type of replacement belt that is supposed to turn more smoothly and is adjustable with links in it. Not sure what they're called but would they be an appropriate replacement part for this saw?

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[Rick Potter]

Link belts are fine, but you might also look at automotive belts with the teeth, or notches, rather than the smooth running surface. These belts run smoother and don't take a set as fast.

Take your original belt to NAPA and see if they can match the length and width.

If the machine is ancient, the belt should be replaced anyway, and even a like replacement should be a big improvement. It is probably hard as a rock.

[Bill Dufour]

Harbor fright sells that belt. made in USA. same price as everyone else. Easy return if you do not like it. With a modern belt one belt should be fine. Not sure if one link belt will be enough or not.
Bill D

https://www.harborfreight.com/vibration-free-link-belt-43771.html

[brad hays]

Thanks for the advice Rick. So you say the notched belts run better than an OEM belt? Now that would be notches that make teeth instead of notches that form a groove like serpentine belts on vehicles?

Yes that HF belt looks like the cheapest option out there. Found others between $40-50. Looks like that belt is a fair bit longer than any of the two I'm replacing so I'm hoping just one will do.

[Tom Trees]

You should be able to find the same belt for a fiver in a local place.
Beware of the fact that it might not have anywhere near the same stretch to it, so beware of that,
and try it as loose as you can for the sake of your motor bearings!
If your lower wheel is wobbling about, chances are that it is not aligned correctly with the top one/motor pulley,
so I'd definitely not change it yet personally.

Not hard to make a wee jig to check over everything.
Check this other thread out from today if you haven't already..
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?293164-New-Grizzly-G0555LX-Vibration

I note you cannot see piccys, so not much point in posting them again. (sorry I don't have a picture hosting site as I aint much of a teccy)
This might help instead
https://youtu.be/VQ9dmP9yF8E

Tom

[Richard Coers]

Could you describe where and what you see wobble? A different belt won't make a bent part better.

[Matt Day]

I would stay away from link belts. They wear the sides of the pulleys faster than a standard belt. I buy cogged belts for all my machines - “X” belts.

(BTW - I have a Carter Stabilizer in the classifieds that I think fits that saw)

[brad hays]

UGH what is up with not being able to see pictures! Very frustrating.

As I don't have the patience right now to describe things as well as a picture would I'll just say I found about 20 thousands wobble in one of the drive transfer wheels between the motor and bottom blade wheel and was able to correct that to about 10 thousands. Also found a wobble of about 14 thousandths in the top blade wheel but I'm not sure how to correct that.

I had two OEM replacement belts arrive from Amazon late yesterday thinking I could just send them back if I went with the link belt. Put them on and noticed a decent reduction in wobble. Of the two I took off, one was fairly round but the other had a definite sharp curve in it that must have had some kind of destabilizing effect. After getting advice to avoid the more expensive link belts I'll probably just stay with the belts on there now.

Only other thing I can think of is to replace the tires which I'm sure haven't been changed out since the belts were. High precision isn't really required for the projects I have planed right now so instead of diving deeper into this rabbit hole I'll probably just chalk this up to experience and put the money into better equipment when I need to upgrade this saw. Either way I'm glad to have this learning experience.

[Matt Day]

You can’t see pictures because you are not a contributor. For a measly $6 you can review and post pictures and access the classifieds.

[Tom Trees]

One might ask themselves why one belt was stretched compared to the other?

I'd be curious to know if the blade set will get compressed being misaligned on the crowned wheels, if you haven't checked it with laser or beam...
as it sounds like you just stuck a clock on the wheels without doing anything else?

Probably the most notable issue I had prior, especially with the thin kerf meat and fish blades which are a bit more delicate and don't last long.


Tom