I bought a vacuum system, have questions

[David Bolson]

I went to an estate sale and one of the things that I ended up with was a vacuum system. I have a Grizzly G0766 that I want to connect to. I’m missing something, but I’m not sure what.

The gauge and plumbing pieces were mounted on a board on the wall.what is the red thing for? I’m guessing a drain for condensation? What is the black tube for? What does it connect to?
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The clear tubing went from the board to the “in” on the motor.
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The tube from the “out” on the motor ends at the brass connector that looks like it’s supposed to connect to something else.
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These chucks came with it. Unfortunately, they are threaded for 1x8 and my lathe has a 1 1/4” spindle. I’ll either try to adapt those or start over.
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This is the outboard end of the spindle on my lathe.
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How do I connect the tube from the motor to the lathe? Is there anything else I’m missing?

Thanks for any advice!

David

[Ed Aumiller]

The red filter is prevent dirt from entering the system when you open the valve attached to it to relieve the vacuum to chuck...to release turning...

The black hose with the bearing on the end (next to gauge in picture) is what attaches to the lathe. The bearing keeps the hose from turning...

The tube from the out on the pump does not need to connect to anything... it is the air output from the pump...

If you do not have a compressor in your shop, you can use the pump to blow air if needed, but do not recommend it...

[John K Jordan]

I went to an estate sale and one of the things that I ended up with was a vacuum system. I have a Grizzly G0766 that I want to connect to. I’m missing something, but I’m not sure what....

I don't see a complete rotating coupler to connect to the lathe. You connect the vacuum tube to the coupler. It has a seal and sealed bearings to allow pulling a vacuum through the hole in the headstock spindle while still allowing the lathe to rotate. I do see what might be a bearing on the side of the vacuum gauge If so it doesn't look complete but could that be part of a coupler? Does it connect to the lathe?

One type of coupler is machined, typically from aluminum, and plugs into the hole in the handwheel with o-rings to seal the coupler to the handwheel. These have to be machined to fit a specific lathe.

Another is a tube that goes though the hole to the other end of the spindle, with the bearing on the end, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Vacuum-Adapter-Kit/dp/B0036B0VRC These can be used with almost any lathe.

Some people make an adapter. One resource: https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Vacuum-Chucking-Add-On.html

You can google vacuum chuck adapter for some options.

If the bearing next to the gauge is a complete coupler it would be nice to see how it connects.

JKJ

[Kevin Jenness]

You should have a filter on the exhaust side of the pump to catch any orts from the carbon vanes, and an intake filter to keep any stray bits from entering the pump. My Gast pump has factory supplied filters which are available as replacement parts.

The barb on the exhaust tube may have connected to a hose run to the exterior. Without seeing the intake side of the bearing I can't say what's needed to secure and seal it to the spindle. My setup has a 5/16" o.d. tube that threads into the bearing fixture and a gasketed tapered nut that fits into the spindle's Morse taper. Some just plug into the outboard end of the spindle with a push-fit gasket.

I made several chucks using a Beall spindle tap with wood bases and pvc sched. 40 pipe plus some self-adhesive neoprene sheet.

[tom lucas]

It's looks to me like the hose with the bearing on it would feed through the headstock and then connect where it is on the Tee. The bear would seal into the homemade chucks. I don't like where the valve is positioned. It by passes through the filter but the filter is not in-use when the valve is closed, which is the "activated" position for the vacuum action on the chuck. I would replumb the whole thing and get an in-line filter. If that pump uses oil, the tubing on the exhaust may be designed for an oil trap (or go outside as suggested earlier).

[David Bolson]

Thank you for the thoughtful responses.

I understand now that the black tube connects to the spindle somehow. This is a close up of the bearing.
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It doesn’t fit into the spindle and I don’t see any way to attach it to the spindle. I’ll keep Googling to try to figure that out.I did see a picture of what seems to be the same bearing at the veneersupplies link that John posted. But that page has no explanations and the links from that page are a dead end.

The wife who sold me the system did say that maybe the system could be used to blow air. So, what Ed said makes sense. That brass connector was probably used with an air gun. I have a compressor, so I will remove the “out” tube.

I don’t understand what Tom is suggesting that I do. Put what kind of filter where? Is that the same filter that Kevin is referring to?

Is the product at John’s Amazon link what Kevin is using?

Am I asking too many questions? I got a Tormek at the same sale and haven’t even gotten to THOSE questions yet!

David

[John K Jordan]

...I did see a picture of what seems to be the same bearing at the veneersupplies link that John posted. But that page has no explanations and the links from that page are a dead end. ...

It looks like Joe G. (Joe Woodworker) has changed his website. He used to have an large section on building a lathe vacuum chucking system but I don't see anything now but that one page. The bearing in the picture is simply a standard bearing with a brass pipe fitting modified and attached. This was part of the configuration shown in the small photo on that same page - the bearing was attached to the large HDPE disk. He used to have all the instructions on his web site. I may contact Joe and ask him if that is still available.

I know the chucking was a sideline "hobby" to his veneer and veneer press business so I wonder if he decided to drop the chucking. I bought a vacuum pump and all the fittings from him so I can look at what I have - maybe I printed out the instructions. I didn't need his rotary adapter since I had another to fit my lathe so may not have saved those instructions. :(

Since then I got another complete vacuum chuck system from another turner and never even used the stuff I got from Joe!

[David Bolson]

Thanks, John. If you have those instructions, that might answer what I can use with this bearing.

In the meantime, I found this (https://www.hartvilletool.com/product/1236/chucks), and maybe that’s all I need.

[John K Jordan]

I think the Hold Fast is basically the same adapter as the Stick Fast in the earlier Amazon link. They are both sold by the same place, Hartville Hardware. Should work ok as long as the thru hole in the lathe headstock is sufficient, 3/8” I think.

If the bearing you have is threaded inside perhaps it’s the same thing, but missing the threaded rod and seal at the other end.

[tom lucas]

Thank you for the thoughtful responses.



I don’t understand what Tom is suggesting that I do. Put what kind of filter where? Is that the same filter that Kevin is referring to?

Is the product at John’s Amazon link what Kevin is using?



David

This is the filter I'm using. It's in-line with the suction port of the pump. The one shown in your photo appears to be in the shunt (bypass) path of the vacuum. But it could be the tubing with the bearing is just on the wrong nub. If it were attached onto the other end of the filter then it would be the same (except you can't see how much depris is in that filter). I like a filter that you can see into, and that is easily cleaned/serviced.

https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Inline-Vacuum-Pump-Filter-25-Micron.html

I have the same lathe (G0766). I was fortunate to probably get one of the last shipments of vacuum adapters specifically made for this lathe from J.T. Turning Tools. Sadly, within days of shipping my part Tom Steyer died. Ashame. Not only did he seem like a real fine gentleman, but his parts were first-quality. As far as I know, no one has picked up his designs and carried them forward. Perhaps someone will eventually, as I know he was THE supplier for Robust's vacuum adapter kit.

As far as what you have, a lot of guys buy the tube kits suggested. Or you can simply make your own from the tubing that runs through your headstock. Take a look at the vacuum head sold by Harrison Specialties. That might give you some ideas on how to do it. I also have the Harrison Specialties head and the bearing is held in place inside the hub by a few simple pan-head screws. Seals quite good.

[tom lucas]

I think I have the instructions John K. Jordan references, but they are too big to attach. PM me if you want them and I'll send via email.

[Robert Hayward]

Poke around on this (www.frugalvacuumchuck.com/home.html) site and you will find diagrams and pictures of his setups. These will help you understand what does what.

[David Bolson]

Poke around on this (http://www.frugalvacuumchuck.com/home.html) site and you will find diagrams and pictures of his setups. These will help you understand what does what.

Interesting. He puts the bearing in the vacuum cup instead of the headstock. (https://www.frugalvacuumchuck.com/parts--misc.html) That might be easier/faster than screwing an adapter into the spindle every time I want to use the vacuum.

[Brice Rogers]

I own a G0766 also. I originally machined a "sealed" bearing adapter with O rings that I would slide into the left end of my spindle. But my "sealed" bearings turned out to be the "non-contact" type - - meaning that they leaked like a sieve. So I contacted Bob at https://www.frugalvacuumchuck.com/ and ordered some of his sealed bearing kits. The included the bearing fitted with PVC tubing to go through the sprindle plus instructions. If you check out his web site, you'll get ideas on how to make the vacuum chuck and the entire set-up. His bearings are sealed well enough that if I turn off the pump, I have about a minute to wait before the vacuum is lost and the piece falls on the floor.

So, after I got his bearing kit, I made some adapters. On the right side end I have a compliant rubber that fits onto a large PVC plumbing fitting that, in turn, is glued to a wooden block. The bearing is held into the wooden block (glued and screwed) and has an ~ 18" long 3/8" OD semi-rigid tube attached. So, to use, I screw on a chuck to the spindle, slide the tube through the spindle and use the chuck jaws to grab the wooden block. My connection to the tube is made by a fairly tight slip fit with another piece of tubing. To put it on or take it off only takes perhaps 15 seconds if I already have the chuck screwed on. If not, it takes 30 seconds.

BTW, I bought an adapter to go from 1-1/4" x 8 to 1" X 8. (This allowed me some less expensive chucks and less expensive Bealle taps than if I stuck with 1-1/4"). I drilled a 10 mm hole through the adapter to pass through the vacuum hose.

Some suggestions for a new set up:
1. Make sure to use a filter on the input (I used a clear universal fuel filter. Bigger is better. Clear is better)
2. Make sure to have a bleed valve - - it'll really help when aligning the wooden object (to turn) on the vacuum end -- you can apply partial vacuum and more easily position the piece you're going to turn. The bleed valve is also handy for releasing the turned piece when you're done.
3. Make sure that you have a good sealed bearing or a good seal. Not all sealed bearings are really "sealed" even though they may be sold as such.

If you want some pictures of my vacuum chuck and set-up, let me know.

[David Bolson]

If you want some pictures of my vacuum chuck and set-up, let me know.


This is the filter I'm using. It's in-line with the suction port of the pump. The one shown in your photo appears to be in the shunt (bypass) path of the vacuum. But it could be the tubing with the bearing is just on the wrong nub. If it were attached onto the other end of the filter then it would be the same (except you can't see how much depris is in that filter). I like a filter that you can see into, and that is easily cleaned/serviced.

https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Inline-Vacuum-Pump-Filter-25-Micron.html

Brice - A few pictures would be very helpful. For one thing, I'm still unsure about the filter situation. What Tom wrote makes sense in that the red filter (if that is a filter) is not in line with the suction. Also, I'm coming around to the idea of using the Frugal system of having the bearing in the chuck. Matching pictures with your description would be helpful. The pictures on the Frugal website are not very clear.

David

[Brice Rogers]

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The first image shows the sealed bearing assembly. I slide a 3/8" tube into the end of it.
The second image shows the vacuum head. (Ignore the second foam sheet). I slide the long 3/8" tube through my chuck and tighten the jaws on the dovetail tenon.
The third image shows how I connect my vacuum line to the tube going through my spindle. The 3/8" OD tube is a pretty decent fit and doesn't leak.
The last image is supposed to be rotated but the smc software didn't accept it in the correct orientation. A couple of key items: on-off switch, bleed valve, automobile gas filter (all air going into the pump goes through it. I mounted these items on a piece of plywood that I attached to the left end of my lathe. When I'm not using it, it is not in the way.

[David Delo]

Call Bob Leonard at Frugal Vacuum and see if you can get a copy of his instructions for building your own cups. He shows a couple different way of doing it with different materials. Very helpful. He's a couple pics of my system that's a couple months old. You'll want to get some gasket material from Hobby Lobby type places.

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[Brice Rogers]

BTW, on my early model G0766, I found that the 10 mm (0.394") hole through the spindle didn't allow a 3/8 (0.375") tube to go through easily. The should probably have used something like a "gun drill". The mfr. apparently drilled from both ends and they didn't "quite" meet perfectly in the middle. So, I ended up using a file or drill or something (I don't recall) to help ease the transition in the middle. Now it works fine. There doesn't seem to be any issue of the poly tubing getting stuck or abrading. But perhaps in 50 or 100 years I may want to replace the 25 cent piece of tubing with another one.

[David Bolson]

I'm just following up with a resolution of the vacuum system for my Grizzly G0766. Maybe it will help someone in the future.

This picture shows, from left to right,
The tubing coming from the pump, which is about 10 feet away.
The remote on/off switch for the pump.
The filter.
The pressure relief valve (not sure that's what it's called).
The vacuum gauge, with black hose going to the lathe.
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This picture shows the black tubing connected to a bearing, inserted into a hardwood receiver that was turned to fit into the hand wheel. I glued foam to the bottom and to the sides to make it airtight. It is removable from the hand wheel, but is held very firmly in use.
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This picture shows some chucks that I made using PVC, these (https://www.grizzly.com/products/steelex-insert-1-1-4-x-8-tpi-rh-thread/d1102) Grizzly inserts (which are a bargain), and some foam. The foam works, but I'm not totally satisfied with it - I'm not sure how long the foam will last before it starts coming apart.
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I'm getting a vacuum reading of about 21-22 before the chuck. When I put the chuck on, I get a reading of about 19. Not sure I should worry about that. I may try putting some epoxy in all the possible places where there is leakage in the chuck and see how that goes.

I appreciate all the help from everyone!

David

[Brice Rogers]

David, it looks like you've figured things out pretty well.

For the leakage at the chuck (minor), have you tried putting on several wraps of teflon tape?

Looking at the picture of your bleed valve, it seems like it is "downstream" of your air filter. Perhaps I am mistaken. Ideally, you'd want the all of the air going through the vacuum pump, including those times when the bleed valve is open or partially open, to be filtered.

[David Bolson]

David, it looks like you've figured things out pretty well.

For the leakage at the chuck (minor), have you tried putting on several wraps of teflon tape?

Looking at the picture of your bleed valve, it seems like it is "downstream" of your air filter. Perhaps I am mistaken. Ideally, you'd want the all of the air going through the vacuum pump, including those times when the bleed valve is open or partially open, to be filtered.

Are you suggesting that I put teflon tape on the spindle threads when I use the vacuum?

It seems to me that the bleed valve is in the right place. Air being sucked through the bleed valve goes through the filter on the way to the pump.

[Brice Rogers]

David, it looks like you are attaching your vacuum port at the handwheel? If that is correct, you are drawing a vacuum through the spindle and the connection between the spindle and the chuck could leak a little.

I couldn't tell from the photo what tubes were what. But if the air through the bleed valve goes through the filter on the way to the pump, then you did it correctly.