How do you build these panels?

[Tom Jones III]

I've been requested to make something like this attached picture from Thomas Moser. I can't quite tell, are the side and door panels solid wood or plywood? Which would you use?

If they are solid, then they must be loose panels, right? Like raised panels without being raised? How do you do this? If you cut a straight slot in the rails and styles and left a little room for the panel to move, then you would always see a little gap. Is it small enough that you don't need to worry about movement?

Here is the original source for the picture
http://www.thomasmoser.com/office/off.products.view.php?from=cat&product_id=106

[Bill Simmeth]

Can't say with certainty, but knowing Moser furntiture I'm willing to bet they're solid wood, not plywood. The panels would likely be rabbetted and fit into a slot in the rails and stiles, like a raised panel. The back (inside) is likely flush with the rails and stiles while the front (outside) is recessed (as you see in the pic). You most definitely need to allow for movement, but the panel to rail/stile fit should be snug enough that no gap shows. Hope this makes sense.

[Byron Trantham]

If the price of this piece is any indication; I would say there is no plywood used. Making those thin inset panels would be a challenge for me. My planer accepts 13" and that's it. I would have to plane two separate panels and edge glue them. The side panels look like they are same thickness as the grove they fit in (1/4"?). The door panels look like they may be rabbited (3/8 or 1/2" thick?). The doors look like they use mortise and tenon for construction since they have dowels at the joints. Let us know how you come out on this project.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

I would also guess that they are solid wood. If you made the rails and styles 3/4 thick with a centered 1/4 groove, you would make the panels 1/2 inch thick and cut a 1/4 by groove depth rabet on the back side. I actually prefer to raise the back side, I think it looks better, but the rabbeted panel looks okay too.

[tod evans]

install the panel backwards

[Mark Singer]

A very simple way is to make te doors as picture frames....rabbet the back edge for the panel...insert the panel loosely , no glue and with a second panel which is the same size as the door(picture frame)...sandwich them gluing to the back panel to the frame. Or just assemble the frames with a groove on the edge and let them float as you join the frames. The panels are just resawed from 1/4" or 5/16 stock and layed up

[Ted Shrader]

Tom -

About your "gap" question. The panel can be just <i>slightly</i> thinner than the rabbet. Just enough to allow movement without binding, but not enough to have a visible gap. As for compensation for seasonal wood movement and keeping the panel centered, use "Space Balls" (http://www.pricecutter.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_447-7170_A_Space+Balls). They are rubber balls that go into the rabbet and compress slightly when the panel is inserted. They provide enough give so the panel can move, yet stays centered and doesn't rattle.

One other thought - apply stain (if used) to the panel prior to installation so no light wood will show when the panel shrinks.

Regards,
Ted

[Howard Acheson]

There are a few ways to make panels like that. One is to use 1/4 cherry plywood and what is called "stub and groove" jointery. For this construction you do not need to allow for wood movement in the panel

The second is to make a raised panel and install it so that what is normally the back is facing out. This is freqently done with top-grade shaker style furniture.

Another is to use 4/4 solid cherry and resaw it in half and bookmatch glue it to the overall size you want. Have the glueline in the center to create an interesting "cathedral" grain pattern.

The last two construction techniques will require that the panel float in the rails and styles so that the panel can seasonally expand and contract.