Storing Slider Accessories...Show me what you do

[Lisa Starr]

Well, I have my new slider set up and ready to produce something. :) It makes me smile every time I walk into my shop. Thank you all for helping me determine if it would fit in my shop.
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Now I'm trying to figure out what to do with the pieces and parts when not in use. The wagon will stay on my saw most of the time, and is easy to hang on a wall if I do decide to remove it.

But, what do you do to store the perpendicular fence? I wanted to hang it, but it seems that there is "stuff" sticking off of it every which way.

Also, I imagine the clamp will usually be on the machine, but what about the part with the angled area for helping hold pieces? Storage method?

Making a Fritz and Franz jig is well up there on my to-do list. Where do you keep it when not in use?

As this is my first, and probably only slider, I have a huge learning curve ahead of me. Please have patience with all my newbie questions. I always appreciate the help I receive on SMC.

[Kevin Jenness]

Well, you don't lack for wall space so hang them up. Put the crosscut fence on brackets. I have a big "parking lot" lumber rack where many of my saw accessories hang out for lack of a better place. You can build some shelves as well.

[Mark Bolton]

We hang long cross cut fence (5' retracted) from a large bike hook in the ceiling hooking it on any of its protruding appendages (has a handscrew lock for extension right near the end and we hang it from there). Wagon on the wall as you state. You'd be surprised on some work how often you take the wagon off but we do a lot of feeder breakdown so getting the wagon out of the way is common but we also take it off when we setup several stations down the slider for various repetitive short work.

[Mark e Kessler]

I built a flat panel rack, can’t seem to find a good pic right now but here is a crude one for now - past the bottle you can see some aluminum extrusions from the saw - will get a better snap tonight…
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[Warren Lake]

pretty much all my stuff goes on walls. Built one size of cabient and have many and one row below another.

The slider fence might be one thing I dont put on a wall. I think it might be easier just to have a bracket near the side of the saw just below the sliding table. Havent got to that yet. All the parts and riving knives wrenches etc are all on the same wall cabinets and all stuff in rubbermaid type containers. I try to have the parts the belong to a machine in a wall cabinet beside the machine.

[ChrisA Edwards]

You've got so much space under the right side table. Use vertical storage on sliding panels for access.

[David Stone (CT)]

The need to actually remove the crosscut fence from the saw can be greatly reduced by loosening the knobs that affix it to the mounting points, and sliding it off to the left (i.e. away from the blade) as far as it will go when using the rip fence. On my K3 this creates about ten inches of clearance left of the blade, which is enough for the offcut most of the time.

For this to work, the stop that locates the crosscut fence and its scale relative to the blade needs to be placed on the outboard side, as in the pics. (I assume this is possible on your saw, but don't know it for a fact.)461211461213

[Joe Calhoon]

I also just slide the fence when ripping on either slider. On my vintage short stroke slider I have a simple gauge to re-calibrate the length stop. The larger slider has a positive stop to reset the fence.
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I use the wall for most of my accessories.
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For often used accessories like F&F, I built a hanging cabinet under the back of the slider.
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The short stroke slider is not near a wall so I made a storage rack that bolts to the table. Limits the rip width but I have the other saw for wide stuff.
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The Orange book has some good slider storage ideas. I will take some pictures and post them.

[Mark e Kessler]

Here are a few additional pictures, I don’t take off the long xcut fence or outrigger unless I need to move the saw to bring a car in for repair which is maybe 1 time a year and it always seems to happen in the middle of winter for a brake job. I have the Felder trolley (or whatever they call it) where you can supposedly remove the fence and outrigger at the same time but it’s a monster and i just take the fence off as it weighs a ton (well…. 50-55pds) and use the trolley for the outrigger…

Edit... if I need the long xcut out of the way for rip cuts, i can just angle the fence slightly (10 ish deg) and there is a spring loaded pin on the bottom side you release and it will slide out of the way. (Also fyi for anyone looking at Felder - this is another reason to go with the Felder heavier xcut fence even if you do not want the DRO..)

(I'd like to take credit for spending the time to get all my photos to display sideways but as luck would have it, it was done for me...lol)

Here is the panel for the short xcut, aux table, parallel guide and cast iron ext table for jointer and bandsaw
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On the outrigger a holder for ff, a clamp and spacer for the xcut stop
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The xcut spacer is used when i need a cut less than 202mm
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I just store the trolley under the saw
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Tool storage to change blade, zci is built in on this saw, super handy in this location, maybe you could add a wood strip in this location on your saw
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blade storage for 12”, 16” and a few different riving knives.
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dado storage, nice to have it portable and the blades vertical for easy retrieval.
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[Lisa Starr]

Thank you for your thoughts and ideas. I appreciate the photos especially.

[Rod Sheridan]

461326461325Hi, glad that you are happy with the new machine.

My outrigger, fence and holdown clamp hang on pegboard, as does my Fritz und Franz jig.

The edging shoe is in a little pegboard basket along with my other riving knife.

My shaper curve guard and tenon table hang on the pegboard and the tenon hood is on a shelf.

I’ve included photographs of my blade storage cabinet, I can carry the blade carrier to the saw and put it down without worrying about knocking the teeth. The carriers have a groove in them to lock on the 5mm pins and I have them offset one unit (32mm) so they display the blade type.

Regards, Rod

[David Zaret]

every so often i have to remove the crosscut fence on my slider, and i built a wall-hung cradle to house it:

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[Joe Calhoon]

Here are pictures from the Orange book on slider storage
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[Steve Wurster]

My shop is too small to leave the outrigger on the saw all the time, so I hang it and its fence on the wall when not in use. The outrigger is heavy, but it's easy to mount on the saw. The fence is a little bit complex to mount, but still readily doable.

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I also hang the shorter crosscut fence on the wall when not in use, mostly so that it's not in the way as I walk by the saw. It's very easy to mount on the saw.

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My Fritz and Franz jig also hangs on the wall, and is also very easy to mount on the saw.

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As for my blades, clamps, etc., they sit nearby and are readily accessible.

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[Tom Bender]

Small shop guy here, just rolling my eyes

[Mike King]

You need more stuff.

First, and most important, a set of air clamps for the slider from Airtight Clamps. It will enhance the accuracy and versatility of your slider.
Second, forget the Fritz and Franz, buy a set of parallel guides. I like the ones from Lamb Toolworks.
Third, think about upgrading your fence to DRO. It's a game changer.

And yes, you have plenty of storage space to add these few accessories....

Mike

[glenn bradley]

Lots of great ideas here guys and not just for sliders. Cab saw users who make aggressive use of that platform have a large amount of larger jigs and fixtures to store as well. I picked up a few ideas on this thread for that purpose. Thanks.

[Lisa Starr]

So, thanks to your many ideas, I've begun putting things away. The parallel fence will probably just remain on the saw to the right of the blade the majority of the time. The perpendicular fence has found a home hanging on the wall. I've started a 24 x 24" cabinet to sit under the righthand side of the saw. It will have 4 drawers for storing the smaller accessories and whatever else needs a home. There should be room between this cabinet and the saw base to store larger jigs/fixtures vertically. When that is finished, I'll embark on the Fritz and Franz jig and start working on designing parallel guides. Since I still have access to a machine shop full of tools, I'll probably make my own. Mostly to prove I can.

[Jim Becker]

You need more stuff.

First, and most important, a set of air clamps for the slider from Airtight Clamps. It will enhance the accuracy and versatility of your slider.
Second, forget the Fritz and Franz, buy a set of parallel guides. I like the ones from Lamb Toolworks.
Third, think about upgrading your fence to DRO. It's a game changer.

And yes, you have plenty of storage space to add these few accessories....

Mike
To a certain extent, the tool buying fanatic side of me agrees...but those things may require a winning lottery ticket, too, for many folks. :) :D Fritz and his buddy Franz looks pretty darn good in that respect!

[Kevin Jenness]

I am short on wall space, so the extension table leans up against the planer and the crosscut fence sits on a couple of cleats extending from my bade rack. Other parts find a place on the lumber rack.
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Air clamps are great, but pricy. You can make effective manual clamps easily enough.

I made a parallel gauge, but don't use it often. Fritz and Frans I use all the time- they just drop into the table groove.

[Mark e Kessler]

Air clamps can be diy for 1/3 of the price of buying them, still 1k when building one set at a time but worth every penny once you have them and use them

F&F still incredibly useful for small pieces, i use mine all the time…easy to build and virtually no cost.

parallel guide is really a must have as well if you want to utilize to the fullest potential and if you have 2 you can cut longer than your slide affords, i hafe the Felder version but Brians are really nice and really you could totally build one for much lower cost.

[Joe Calhoon]

I Agreee about Fritz and Franz. It’s a quick setup for a lot of things especially when used with the rip fence.