Hi Gang, My Turn For A Question

[Bill Stevener]

As one that has never turned a pen and now involved in a new world with the "Keebler" family, I am venturing into other materials in addition to wood. A product that is new to me is Acrylic Acetate. Right now, a high priority item on the list of those that collect miniatures.

I purchased several pen blanks and gave it a spin with some of this stuff. Really a different material to turn, doesn't seam to want to leave the turning, just hangs around. Anyway, guess that comes with it. My question is in the finish. When the turning was completed, sanded down to 1500 g, wet. All I did was to attempt to buff it a little with my fingers and It smoothed out and shined like a new Penney. Doe's one apply a finishing product on this material, if so what, or do you leave it just natural?? It looks outstanding to me just the way it finishes naturally.

Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks,
Thanks for your time,
Bill.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>:)

[Michael Stafford]

I know nothing so take this for what it is worth. I usually polish it with some Renaissance wax and it makes it look like a new dime!!!!!:p :D I don't use many acrylics so those with more experience can provide better guidance.

[Raymond Overman]

Hut makes a plastic polish that I've used on corian. I don't know that it really gives it anything extra since the stuff is on top of a material that's made to take a beating already.

[Kevin Gerstenecker]

Bill, most acrylics and plastics that are used for turning are just fine finished as you are doing.........fine sanding. You can use some White Diamond compound on a soft cloth for a final polish. I have had excellent results doing that. You can also buy Novus Plastic Polish, which will remove fine scratches. I have used Novus, and while it works as advertised, it is not paramount to a nice shiny finish on acrylics. I usually fine sand, wet, up to 2K grit and polish with White Diamond.

[Keith Burns]

I've always used hut bar finish wax stuff on pens although it's not really needed. I'm using a pen I made a couple of years ago and it still looks new. Are you going to make a ittsy bittsy pen now?:D

[Greg Sorenson]

I just sand up thru 12000 mm wet with water. Thats it. It shines very glossy.

[John Miliunas]

Bill, most acrylics and plastics that are used for turning are just fine finished as you are doing.........fine sanding. You can use some White Diamond compound on a soft cloth for a final polish. I have had excellent results doing that. You can also buy Novus Plastic Polish, which will remove fine scratches. I have used Novus, and while it works as advertised, it is not paramount to a nice shiny finish on acrylics. I usually fine sand, wet, up to 2K grit and polish with White Diamond.

Hmmmm...Good tip, Kevin! Never thought of using the White Diamond. Makes much sense. Wonder what it would look like when doing something like deer antler? :D Think I'll give this method a spin next time around. Thanks!:) :cool:

[Kevin Gerstenecker]

You're very welcome John. I have only turned Antler for a couple of pens, but I used the White Diamond on those also, and it shined them right on up.

White Diamond - the "duct tape" of buffing componds! ;)

[Bill Stevener]

I've always used hut bar finish wax stuff on pens although it's not really needed. I'm using a pen I made a couple of years ago and it still looks new.

Are you going to make a ittsy bittsy pen now?:D


Now there's a thought Keith, first I will have to make one of those mandrill gizmos. :D Think anyone sells about a 1mm size?:confused:

Bill.>>>>>>>>>>>>>:)

[Dick Parr]

If you are going to do allot of it Bill, here is what I use.

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=084-1000

They work great.

[Kent Cori]

I use Micromesh up to 12000 with a little water. Just make sure to cover your lathe ways when you do so and dry it off after.

[Gary DeWitt]

Don't you just love the way the plastic shavings stick to everything? Static buildup.
I've only turned a few acrylic pieces, but Steven Russell turns pens and recomends rennaisance wax, not as a protectant but to prevent fingerprints until the pen or other object sells.
Acrylic plastic is non-porous and waterproof by itself. Heck, they use acrylic as a component in paint to protect wood and metal, such as cars.

[Bill Stevener]

Hi All,

A big thanks to everyone for the great replies.

Dick, I thought about the sanding pads, however they may be a bit large for what I am working on. I might give it a go some day though, thanks.

So far, things are going quite well. I may post some photos later this evening for the gangs review :eek:

Thanks again,

Bill.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>:)